Paramount MX AG Optical 12.5 IDK Apogee Alta 16803 AstroDon Series 2 E LRGB AstroDon Ha 5nm SII 5nm OIII 3nm SBig Sti ACP observatory control, ACP Scheduler PixInsight, Maxim DL 5, My Images http://www.remarkableheavens.com/
My AstroBin page.
Jc ATM 10" F6.1, 1/25th wave spec (max wavefront error +/- 1/12.6 in zone 4 of 6, sodium light ), 6" F7 spec, 127mm F9.4 achro Refractor, Criterion DX8, 10 x 50 bin, SP mount/Synscan goto. ETX80 (finder) Canon 20D, PST DSI 1, Butenschön 125mm F13.4 refractor, diy spectroscope and curiosity
Deep Space Products
Quote:If you made 53 cents an hour, how much would you care? Welcome to the USA, currently being leased by China! The demand isn't there for telescopes right now, too many laid off workers can't afford them since their job was sent to Asia in the name of greater profits. I went to look at Meade APO's who the salesrep assured me was better than celestron since it wasn't owned by a chinese company. I looked at the scope that was clearly marked "made in China". The $1499 price tag would make me think it was quality American made. Wonder where the $1200 went after wages and materials?
My site: http://www.astronomyisrael.com
Quote: Wonder where the $1200 went after wages and materials?
Quote:For those people comfortable with tearing their mounts apart (this is usually someone who has a garage full of tools to start with), I think that doing it yourself (with or without a kit) is a good idea since it gives you a better feel for just how the mount works and what can and cannot be done to improve its operation. However, if you are not comfortable with doing it yourself or you don't have the time, then my recommendation is to send it in to be HyperTuned. In general, tinkering is OK with a CG-5 or LXD75, but things get serious with a $1400 (or more) mount and while getting it apart may (or may not) be relatively easy, putting it back together and getting it adjusted right can be challenging. I do receive mounts that people haved tried to tune themselves but have ended up having to send it to me. Sometimes it is not big deal, other times serious damage has been done. Some mounts are easy to tune up while others are just a bear for one reason or another, even for me. There is a lot of variation in the mass-produced mounts so it is difficult to predict how a particular mount will be. For example, many of the CGEMs that I have worked on lately have been much easier to disassemble than the average Atlas mount, however, they have been all over the map in regards to putting them back together and getting them adjusted, whereas the Atlas mounts have been more consistent in the effort necessary to put them back together and adjust them.If a mount is performing well and doing everything its owner needs it to do then there may be little or no need to HyperTune it. However, when a mount is not performing up to reasonable expectations, particularly in regards to balancing, backlash and tracking, then HyperTuning can often be very helpful.The mid-level mounts like the Atlas and CGEM are some of the best mounts to HyperTune because they are much more capable than their smaller siblings and when well tuned they are very capable mounts. HyperTuning is also cost effective with these mounts when compared to the next step up in mounts which cost three times as much (and may still be mass-produced in China). More expensive mounts that are not mass-produced in China benefit less from HyperTuning because they are generally manufactured to tighter tollerances in the first place. However, even those mounts benefit from occasional tear-downs and maintenance. Ed Thomas
Quote:The CGEM noise can be reduced somewhat by changing the default slew / goto rate in the HC.
Quote:Could I be biting off more than I can chew by thinking I could DIY?
Quote: I have had discussions about substitutes (like specially coated brass) but the costs (materials and equipment like a laser cutter) start to get prohibitive.Ed Thomas
I lost count of my scopes. Now I just want mobility. I came, I saw, I bought some interesting accessories, and put names to faces: NEAF 2012, ASAE 2012, SWAP 2013, ASAE 2013.
Quote:Ed,I didn't consider different shapes. The dies for that would be expensive. Another thought is water jet. In the past I bought a lot of custom hydraulic seals from a company called Seal Jet. Not even sure they are around now. They could cut most plastics.John
Quote:I have finally gotten the drive completely adjusted on my CGEM, and I have to say, it seems to be incredibly smooth, now. What it took was having power on and doing slews while adjusting the drive set screws (side with the drive bumps loosens, far side set screw on the round area tightens). What it really needed was to have the four cover bolts loosened to allow the drive to move. They are shipped gorilla tight (never get bolts this tight). With them gently snug, it was possible to have the drive backlash free, yet free spinning in about 5 minutes. Then tighten the bolts down in a diagonal pattern to keep it from moving. I spun itg through a few 360s to make sure everything was happy. Do you really need to send it off and pay $325 for that?-Rich
None of my kit is part of a two year pay to be part of beta test, that still isn't close to ending.
Quote:There are a lot of us who don't have free time to play with mounts. Sending it off to get the job done right, by folks who know what they are doing is a good investment.Phil
Quote:What I describe doesn't void the warranty. No parts are taken apart, no bearings unseated. All it is is a little bit of adjustment. -Rich
Quote:For anyone that wants complete instructions on how to adjust the worm gear on the CGEM and Atlas/EQ6 mounts, I have posted them in a pdf file on the appropriate Yahoo groups. No charge.
Quote:Ed,I had a garage like that for a long long time. You must have a very understanding wife.Have you written anything up on the CGE mount?Just wondering how hard it would be to do myself.John