Quote:It's not bad for visual observing, but when I start astrophotography it'll be an issue...Thanx in advance.
Uncle Rod Uncle Rod's Astroblog: http://uncle-rods.blogspot.com/
Quote:Quote:It's not bad for visual observing, but when I start astrophotography it'll be an issue...Thanx in advance. Yes, poor polar alignment can cause RA drift...but...that tightness in RA (with the lock off) doesn't sound good to me.
Quote:Well, could that tightness be causing theh RA drift? That's my main concern. The RA is locked when using the mount, so "I figured" (meaning, I might be wrong) that wasn't the issue with it being tight. The gears sound great (alot better then before I hypertuned it). The GoTo's are spot on. And I haven't had an alignment failure. There's only a RA drift.
------------------ Mert 42º49"N 1º38"W 3" Polarex refractor,6" F12 SW MCT,Moonlight "Stepperized" EQ6 + EQMOD,SPC900NC/DFK21AU04.AS/ASI120MC My web-page Still working to make it decent!
“I am the only person to ever ace a 1951 USAF resolution test. My 'to observe' list says 'done'. I do not use charts or atlases when I starhop; men do not use maps. One of my sketches won an SBIG deep sky imaging contest. I am the life of star parties I have never attended. I never say anything looks like a faint fuzzy - not even a faint fuzzy. Pilots aim green laser pointers at me. Don Pensack proofreads my CN forum posts.” - The Most Interesting Astronomer in the Universe
Quote:Hmm...for visual use I find the polar scope to be nearly irrelevant. In fact, you can get good results removing the polar scope and sighting through the empty bore hole. I've never bothered to align my polar scope and find that centerig Polaris plus a two star alignment keep GOTO slews in the field of a medium power eyepiece pretty much all night.
Go ahead and align your polar scope, but if that doesn't fix matters, suspect something amiss with the RA rebuild.
Quote:I am not using EQMOD - but I should be...lol. I've downloaded the ASCOM drivers and all that fun stuff, I've just been to lazy to mess with it. Plus, I don't have a CCD camera right now so I haven't been taking out my laptop with me when I observe. Is the EQMOD easy to set up?And knowing that I haven't been using EQMOD, does this mean that the ra drift compensation is correct? Or is that something that can only be set w/ EQMOD?
Quote:Randy, I have been on the verge of rebuilding my Atlas all winter but something else always seems to get in line before it. However, I believe that there is a "felt" pad between the brass ring gear and the brass locking "bolt" that locks the axis in place. Brass on brass would not provide enough friction. I do not know what the pad is actually made of but it will look and feel something like felt. It may have come loose during reassembly and jammed up the works making it stiff then fell out when you reassembled it leaving the brass on brass situation you now seem to have.
EDIT: P.S. I have also seen pads made of a hard plastic pellet. I do not know what the Atlas actually uses but there is something in there.
The brass surprises me but it would explain why the locks have an all or nothing kind of feel. Also, since my RA is also stiff (Part of why I want to rebuild.) the solution to this riddle is of great interest to me. There is a member of CN that I have not seen in this thread that could know the answer, however, and you might send him a PM. His screen name is "Strgazr27". Please do not forget to let us know the answer if he knows it.
Quote:Randy,I have never rebuilt the mount before, however, I did find this link with a complete tear down:http://www.beevo.com/rework.htmLots of cool photos of tear down, and reassembly. Maybe there is a photo of step you are over looking. Worth a look? DD
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Quote:Hey gang,I just tried to order the DVD but Paypal states:Quote:This recipient is currently unable to receive money. Is TSS still doing business ?-Jerry
Quote:If I remember correctly, the clutch lock "bolt" screws into the housing of the mount and eventually contacts the side of the worm wheel to drive the mount. There's a hard stop on the housing that blocks the clutch "handle" from rotating all the way around and thus keeps the clutch bolt in place. The clutch bolt has a square "head". The handle has an eight point cutout in it to facilitate adjustment of the handle position.If you tighten the clutch enough to engage it fully then remove the handle and move it a notch or so in the direction that you used to tighten the clutch, this should give you more clutch bolt travel in the opposite direction when you go to unlock it. I'd think that this would solve your problem, but the handle may look a little funny when locked down.If it doesn't fix the problem then it's probably not the clutch that's binding the RA axis.
Randy, or anyone else, what is this Alt/Az mod that I have read about ?
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