http://claudedesrosiers.smugmug.com Twitter : Fogboundturtle's on Twitter Scopes: Celestron C8 SCT, Meade 127mm ED Triplet Mounts: HEQ5 PRO + SyncScan Version 3.24 Camera : Canon 5D Mark III unmodified, DMK31 , STF-8300 Pro Package plus
Indiana for a three more weeks...
14.5" Teeter w/ Richard Fagin mirror, TT #66
EON 120ED on CG-5 ASGT
Lunt LS60THa/B1200 Sky Guy Porta II
Denk Super System with A45 OCS
Obsession 15" With Argo Navis / ServoCat Takahashi TOA 130 / Discmounts DM6 / Sky Commander Ioptron iEQ45 GEM Coronado 60mm .6a (Double Stacked) Solar Scope Canon IS 10 x42 binos Celestron Ultima 8 Denkmeier Binotron 27's
Quote:Any 2" diagonal should work with the Binotrons, and 1.25" diagonals should work if you get a 1.25" nosepiece. They should come to focus with your Baader prism diagonal with or without the Power x Switch, but without it you lose the ability to get Barlow & Reducer modes out of the same pair of EP's, so I would leave it on. YMMV.Enjoy them either way.I am very pleased with them so far, and the ability to collimate them for a perfect merge myself is just fantastic.
Quote:Glen,Thanks, I understand. I would think that in most cases it would be more accessories than just a 2" diagonal, or very dependent upon the design of the system.Is there a definitive way to verify if there is an amount of aperture loss?As an example, I have been using a Denkmeier R2 Diagonal (it's a 2" diagonal that has a power switch on each side of the mirror housing) with the Denk II & Binotron-27 Binoviewers on a CPC800. I just purchased the CPC1100 & am looking forward to trying the combination on it as well. Visually I have not noticed any difference between using the R2 Diagonal, or a WO 2" Diagonal with the Binoviewers so this never crossed my mind.Is there a way to measure if the aperture is being reduced by the longer light path of the R2, over the standard 2" version, or a difference between either of them over a 1.25" diagonal?Thanks,Jeffrey G.
Quote:I get 1 3/4 inches. A tiny bit more if you count the rubber grips on the barrels.
Orion ED80 - AT Voyager with TNT,pier ext.,Vixon steel tray and Manny's mod.
Omni 120 cg4 with Orion pier ext. and RA drive
Orion XT10(Original F/5)
Jason Constellation Model 311(Modified with 1.25"Crawford Machine focuser & rings)
Binotron-27 (25mm & 17mm Sterlings)
Quote:alfy - congrats I am also waiting on the B27s.I would recommend getting a second Pan 24 since you already have one. I would recommend them anyway over the Denk 21s. The Pan 24 will give you the largest FOV possible with the B27s and they are considered to be THE widefield eyepiece of choice for binoviewing.With the 3X Powerswitch, the 11T6 makes a perfect jump from the highest setting with the Pan 24s, so it's not a bad choice either and in fact I loved mine when I had them and the only reason I now have the 13T6s is they are slightly physically smaller. But if you go by mag jumps with the Powerswitch, the 11T6 is the logical choice to go with the Pan 24s.
Quote:While waiting for my Bonotron 27, I have been shopping for eyepieces for its use. Is this an amateur's approach? Should I just buy the extremely expensive Denk 21s? I have so far Nagler 11mm T5s, Vixen LNV Langanum 17s and one of two require 24mm Panoptics. I figure I can always sell what I don't use. Similarly I am looking at WO 7.25-22mm zooms. Am I all wet? Would Denk 14s or Denk 21s really be BETTER for the new Binoviewer?