Black Creek Observatory C11 EdgeHD C8 AT6RC Eon80mmED
NightFire 6" f/8 Refractor with Moonlite focuser Meade 7" LX200 GPS Mak Meade 16" LX200 GPS S/C D&G 10" f/15 Refractor with Parallax Mount Fuji Meibo 25x150 Bino's Celestron 14x100 Bino's Little Giant 11x70mm Bino's "The Beyondness of Things" By John Barry - My favorite observing music
7x35 and 10x50 sears tower binocs, 3" f/10 edmunds reflector, 2.4" f/11.7 manon refractor, 6" f/8 jaegers refractor, 10" f/11 R30 Istar refractor, 3" f/15.8 sans&streiffe refractor, 3.1" f/15 selsi refractor(towa 339), 2.4" f/15 sears refractor, selsi 30x30mm spyglass, criterion 5-draw 25x45x75x spyglass(1957), 4.25" f/14.8 tasco 20te.http://cleardarksky.com/c/OmahaNEkey.html
Enjoy the sky,
C11 Edge HD, C925 XLT TEC 140 (#352) w/ AT65EDQ Skywatcher 100ED w/ WO66SD ZenithStar, ES 80mm Apo Sirius, Atlas EQ-G, "Atlosmandy" Pro AZ/EQ-G, T-Rex Apex,Porta II DBK21AU04, DBK21AU618, DMK21AU618, DMK31AU03, ASI120mm/mc, Hutech 500DH Beaglehaven Observatory (BYO #168)
DreamCatcher Dobservatory/AstroTech 16" dob.
CG5ASGT Astro-Tech AT6RC Zhumell 10 inch dob deluxe kit 10x12 observatory Echo Astronomy maker of Custom bahtinov masks and Duncan collimation masks.
Quote:OMG my apologies, I haven't seen this thread for a couple of days, and so it's probably way too late to suggest that you just put a really good vapor barrier - like 2 layers of 4-mil plastic, on the inside surface of the framing, and sheetrock it. You get some ventilation with air entering the bottoms of the big corrugations, and exiting the top under the ridge cap, so your roof will get hotter, but it'll survive.
If you're putting the foam board on the roof side, then the fiberglass under (inside) it, you'll still need to put the vapor barrier in, because otherwise, the dew point temp will be reached within the fiberglass, moisture will condense there, and will migrate back down into your Sheetrock, thus making things messy.
Always, on any insulated space, you want to put a good vapor barrier on the inside (warm in cold weather) surface of your insulation. Always. The more airtight the outside wall sheathing is, the more important it is.
If you already have the wall surface up, there are vapor barrier paints that can be applied to the wall surface.
Quote:You can buy DIY spray foam kits online.
Quote:Yep, fiberglass under foam will work fine, it's not even necessary to caulk the foam in. It's better to peel some of the fiberglass off the sheets than to cram it in.....the R-factor is highest with the recommended amount of air pocket space in the insulation. Just be real sure to put the plastic vapor barrier on under the fiberglass before you put the sheetrock up. 4 mil works, 6 mil would be better, but it's harder to find. the paper face insulation (if you're using that type) isn't effective as a vapor barrier, the aluminum face version (if you can find it) works pretty well as a barrier, but you gotta tape the seams, unless you put plastic up anyhow.