“I am the only person to ever ace a 1951 USAF resolution test. My 'to observe' list says 'done'. I do not use charts or atlases when I starhop; men do not use maps. One of my sketches won an SBIG deep sky imaging contest. I am the life of star parties I have never attended. I never say anything looks like a faint fuzzy - not even a faint fuzzy. Pilots aim green laser pointers at me. Don Pensack proofreads my CN forum posts.” - The Most Interesting Astronomer in the Universe
C-11 XLT CF
WO 80mm ZSII
Canon EOS 450d - modified
Quote: (the person who designed and located the various knobs should be keelhauled)
Coordinator, Fox Park Observatory
A 50mm Edu-Science refractor started it all...Thanks Mom and Dad!
Celestron CGEM; Various OTA's Various eyepieces; Modified Canon XS; Orion SSAG
My Astrophotos on Flickr
http://www.faintfuzzy.net Stuff C14, C8, Orion XX14i, Meade 8" ACF, AT6RC, AT102ED, Orion ED80, PST, AP1600GTO, CGE, CG5, ST10-XME/CFW8, QHY8PRO, Optec TCF-s, Microtouch Focuser, Pyxis LE, Hyperstar for C8.
Quote: Quote: (the person who designed and located the various knobs should be keelhauled)+1.
C8HD， C9.25 and 10 Dob
Quote:I'm just talking about the DEC motor cable. It continually gets caught by the RA knobs and MASHED in between one of the RA knobs and the RA motor.
Scopes: CDK17, AT10RCF, NP101is, CPC 1100 Mounts: Paramount ME, CGE Pro, CGEM Camera: STL 11002 + AO-L http://www.astrokev.com/
Quote:One issue is that the elevation adjustment knob is very difficult to turn against the weight of the mount and 14" OTA. I have to either push up against the counterweights to take some of the load off the mount while turning the knob (not easy to do unless you're flexible) or get a spouse/friend to help.
Quote:If you do a search on cable management in astrophotography you'll see this is a common issue with all mounts, and even very $$$ mounts can benefit from some efforts to keep the cables from contacting the mount in the first place. A simple approach is to have a rod sticking out the back of the OTA and having all cables attached there so that as the OTA swings around, the cables are kept away from the equatorial head in the first place. Even if there is no issue of tangling, this will reduce friction and resistance with the mount during guiding.
I did place a strap around the southern side of the eq. head to prevent any cables from catching on the knobs that are exposed there. It is a simple precaution that covers up the gap between the knobs and the rough edges of the knobs also so that if a cable did make contact it would have a smooth drag across it.
Quote:It sounds like the people who complain about the knobs would be happier with just allen head bolts and an allen wrench instead - which would keep them out of the way but would require a tool to adjust. That shouldn't cost very much to make that change if someone really wants to - but otherwise for a tool-less operation the knobs have to be pretty big to get a good grip.
Quote:My altitude adjustment is set up correctly now and has been for a while. It works great when it's set up correctly. I was just mentioning that it was hard before I made that adjustment because someone else said it was hard to turn for them too. Even if he's south of 40 degrees he might benefit from the northern configuration.
If I were not using the clutch knobs continually I probably would replace them with an allen bolt. But I add and remove equipment several times a night.
Quote:My previous experience was with my C8 where the equatorial wedge is easily adjusted with a latitude bolt, but there is obviously a lot less weight involved.
Quote:Your point about the extension and angle of the latitude adjusting bolt made sense so I tried relocating the latitude plate to the northern config. At my latitude (a shade under 39 deg) however, this leaves just the nub of the bolt poking through the plate and the plate sides are very close to the mount. The range of adjustment is better in the southern position although the angle of the bolt is more acute. It seems that anyone with a latitude right around the 40 deg crossover point is going to have an issue with ease of adjustment using the latitude knob.
Quote:My previous experience was with my C8 where the equatorial wedge is easily adjusted with a latitude bolt, but there is obviously a lot less weight involved. I guess with the CGE Pro and C14, lifting the mount past your latitude and then backing it off with gravity helping the effort is the way to go. Better yet is having the thing mounted on a pier where you can set it and forget it.
Quote: My mama taught me to finish slews with up and right and focus by lifting the mirror. It seems natural (but not necessarily correct?) that it would be better to finish adjusting altitude against gravity. I suppose if the angle is too acute with a heavy weight that may not be practical but if it can be done it feels like it should be....
Quote:Greg, that's because in the intervening months they actually purchased one and found out that you were right. - Jim
Quote:My mama taught me to finish slews with up and right and focus by lifting the mirror. It seems natural (but not necessarily correct?) that it would be better to finish adjusting altitude against gravity.
Uncle Rod Uncle Rod's Astroblog: http://uncle-rods.blogspot.com/
Quote:This is because the mirror doesn't weight a lot and somewhat floats on the baffle tube when you focus with gravity rather than against it. This means it may continue moving a bit after adjustment.
Quote:The more I read about Celestron mounts, the more happy I am that I sprung for a Takahashi.
Quote:Well sorta. The main reason to focus "uphill" is to make sure you don't leave the mirror in an off balance condition.