FH Vixen 80L, FH 4" f/11
Quote:Try shining a well collimated laser collimator through the scope and see where the beam exits the objective lens. Often it's the focuser that is not aligned with the optical axis of the objective lens and the laser beam will not exit in the centre of the objective lens.You then need to tilt the focuser to get the beam to exit more or less in the centre of the objective. Once you have done that, you can think about tilting the objective lens to address any residual collimation errors.
Keeper of the Swamp Gas Observatory "This R2 unit has a bad motivator" AR127, CG4 CGE1100 1984 tasco 60mm 49TR F/13.3 refractor 1976 Vixen Polaris 80mm F/15 refractor Denkmeier Big Easy BV'er Astro-Tech Titan 38mm 70* Astro-Tech Titan 20mm 70* Astro-Tech SR6 12mm 60* Meade MA25mm Jap. Meade MA9mm Jap. TMBpII 5mm ES 1.25" FX
Quote: I would confirm that with the guys from Astronomics since their in partnership with AT, they should be able to tell you, you might be able to view a manual online for faster results hopefully.
My little Agatha. You left too soon. My furry friends, past and present, are always with me.
Quote:yes, those look like some collimation screws that I've seen, I would confirm that with the guys from Astronomics since their in partnership with AT, they should be able to tell you, you might be able to view a manual online for faster results hopefully.
Quote:Hi everyone,Yes those are the screws that I was referring to. I should have mentioned that my scope was purchased used and the previous owner changed focusers, so this is not the original focuser. A cheshire shows it be off quite aways. I shimmed the focuser and now the cheshire shows it almost perfect. So, while I had it out tonight i decided to see what those screws do. I tightened and loosened all of them in various sequences. I could not detect any change in the star that I was viewing at around 220x. I tried it with an out of focus star also. So, I am still curious what purpose those screws serve. They do not collimate or tilt the lens, they do push on the side of the lenses but I see no change when I do so. I did have the scope on the moon last night and was quite impressed, was able to go past 300x and craters still showed nice detail and very little false color. No false color in the craters and just a hint of yellow on the limb. Havent had a chance to view any planets yet but have been doing a few double stars. I wonder why there is no manual to go with these scopes?Later,Martin
Quote:The first thing to do is determine if there is impact on the image, and the way to do this is star test.I would use an artificail star. If you don't have one, they are easy to make. Three or four sheets of aluminum foil on glass with a sewing needle to "Drill" a hole, then taped to the inside of a box with a hole cut in it, and a light source, palced at 30 or 40 feet (if you can reach focus).This is not a suitable star for testing spherical aberration, but for alignment, it is fine.Now, look at the first diffraction ring. If the ring fairy even all the way around the Airy Disk and there is no uneven color fringing, turn off the light and leave everything alone.Next chance that you get with good seeing at night, do the test again using a brightish star high in the sky.Once again, for centering, you are looking more for unequal ring illumination or uneven color fringing. If you see any kind of prism effect where one side of the star has a red fringe and the other has a blue fringe, you MIGHT have a centering problem.If this is the case, I would not touch it until I checked the warranty. If the warranty will void from fussing with it, send it back.