9.25 EDGE HD, TMB92SS, XT10, EON120, LS60THaTV Ethos 8, 13, 21, Nagler 31, Delos 4.5, 6, 10, Paracorr 2, Powermate 2x
TMB Planetary II's, Baader 8-24mmMIII Maxbright bino, ES68 20 pairAtlas EQ-G, DSV-3, DSV-1ASI120MM, Baader Herschel Wedgehttp://www.flickr.com/photos/astrogabe/
Mach1GTO / G11/G2 (stock) / AT6RC / AT10RC / TMB92SS / Astrodon 50D / STT-8300M / FW8G-STT / PixInsight / etc, etc. Astrobin - Flickr
Quote:if it's not badly out of collimation, you might try the RC systems method of collimation simply using defocused stars and your CCD camera.
Quote:I had the same collimator, but it was giving inconsistent results. I had doubts the laser was itself properly collimated. I've since used my glatter laser and haven't looked back. It's more $, but worth it in the end, especially on an RC, where collimation is key.Gabe
Quote:It looks like the "collimator of choice" seems to be the Tak Collimation Scope.
LX850 blog: www.LX-850.com
personal website: www.wadsworthobservatory.com
Quote:That's a nice device. I don't currently have one, but I used one with my old Tak CN-212. It's basically a magnified Cheshire/sight tube. The instructions that come with the AT RC models describe using a Cheshire/sight tube and that should suffice, so long as the mirrors are centered with respect to each other. If not, you'll need a bullseye pattern laser to get it all centered up first.
Quote:First, how can I tell if the mirrors are centered as you suggest. And then, where might I get such a device with a bullseye pattern laser to center them all up?Roy
Quote:Have a look at my blog and videos at:stevesastro.blogspot.co.uk...here I discuss a collimation method with a Glatter that is very useful and will get you 95% there if not better.
- Jared Willson
Astro-physics, Canon, Pentax, QSI, Rob Miller, Stellarvue, Takahashi, TEC, William Optics (Time to thin the herd) My astrophotos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/r...s/72157627136712042/
SkyMonsters - http://www.skymonsters.net
GSO RC8/Takahashi FSQ85ED Canon 450D/QSI583wsg
Takahashi EM-200 GEM/Vixen Super Polaris
Its true - in any hobby - that someone can do things better than you. However, not to do something because you aren't the best would ignore the value and satisfaction of the journey.(TimN)
Quote:I've got one but the instructions inside are in Jap-English and leave me with many questions.Nicola
Quote:"Some Mewlons have a little amount of the spider adjustment. The perfect collimation for these will be so difficult. Then, do it at the utmost condition."
Terry Danks Photography: Birds, Scenery, a little astrophotography too. http://danks.netfirms.com/home.htm Equipment List: Too embarrassed to list it all. Roll-off-roof Observatory Constructed Fall, 2013
Quote:Apologies for popping into the topic, but this is actually kind of related:Is there anyone having a good instruction manual for the Takahashi Collimating Scope? I've got one but the instructions inside are in Jap-English and leave me with many questions.Thanks a lotNicola
Mike AT8RC - FSQ-106N G11 Gemini Atik 383L+ - Nikon D-70
Quote:You need this one if you want the Concentric Circle Pattern.
Quote:An issue I have found is that racking in and out of the focuser moves the laser very slightly and does not reflect the laser back to the origin for all focuser postions. Whats your thoughts on that Jared? The laser is 100% accurate. This slight uncertainty is a fly in the ointment so to speak... The only difference between Jared's method and the concentric circles method is the holographic attachment.
Quote:Roy, I am not sure you can do it 100% accurate with only the two standard points of adjustment. If you get the concentric circles correct by adjusting the primary you don't then want to go and screw that work up by adjusting the mirror again just to get the focuser aligned! That's the whole raison d'etre of the focuser tipping plate. The focuser TP provides the means to articulate the primary and focuser *independently*. Why GSO don't provide this capability as standard I do not know - cost probably. Don't worry though. You *can* get your scope perfect. Just follow the methods discussed. You can't break anything and time learning is time well spent.
Quote:For a $3500 scope (minus focuser), you would think that the extra added $99 for the focus tipping plate would not have made that much of a difference. Roy
For a $3500 scope (minus focuser), you would think that the extra added $99 for the focus tipping plate would not have made that much of a difference.
Caretaker of: www.astronomics.com www.cloudynights.com www.astronomytechnologies.com
Quote:The scope comes with a focuser, however it generally is not suitable for the loads that people tend to put on it. It also won't remote focus etc, etc. We have asked for the focuser to not be included with the scope, but gave up after the last shipment. So yes it comes with a focuser, but no it is not a great focuser for photography the main intention of the instrument.
The scope has been advertised without a focuser for the last 12 months.
Quote:It was removed and is now sitting on the shelf.
Quote:It does not allow for motorized focusing.Am I missing anything?
Quote:Attempt #4 .. When using the Howie Glatter laser I noticed something. If you look at the reflection of the focus tube, you can see the Howie Glatter .. and reflected on that is the center spot from the secondary. I'm not talking about the center spot reflected on the primary. So I used that as a helpful guide.1. Center the primary in the focuser tube. For this I used a Farpoint Cheshire. The farther away from the back of the scope the better. So I put in all the AT10 extension rings and racked the focuser about 90% of the way out (did not want to get any focuser slop). I'm pretty sure I got this 98% centered. My eyes are only so good. A video camera for this would be great.2. Remove the cheshire and insert the Howie Glatter. Using the reflection that I found of the center spot (ring) on the HG, I was able to adjust the secondary to move the center spot ring dead center over the HG laser in the focuser.3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to get them both lined up .. each adjustment of one, slightly moves the other. But an iterative process 2 or 3 times gets them both dead center.Now. I think until I have the focuser collimation ring that is all I can do. I'm sure a star test is going to be way off again, but perhaps a minor temporary secondary adjustment will give me something I can live with in the short term.I think this is close to what Jared has stated above with me just replacing the "hall of mirrors" part with the center spot reflection on the HG. Roy