Quote: I believe that the famous EdZ, who posts here often, and who's advice I have followed often, is not a fan of binoviewing the 28 RKE's.
Friends call me Duane. Compustar C14, Leo Henzl's Custom C8, 6" Refractor Adv. GT mount, 6" F5 Omni XLT Newt., LXD-75 F4 Imaging SN8, Meade 8" F6 Newtonian, EX Dynamax DX6, RV-6 ETX-90 Astro, Meade 2045 4" SCT, B&L 4000 Vixen/Celestron 80mm F11 JC Penny 60mm AZ/ALT Refractor Binos 25x100
Quote:How well do you think a pair of Edmond 28mm RKE's would pair up the a WO binoview in a Celestron Nexstar C11? (F/10)?How do you think they would compare or be different from the WO eyepieces that come with the binoviwer?Thanks for any comments.
Much like classic european sports cars and high maintenance feisty woman, binoviewing the RKE's takes more than minimal work to enjoy, but when it's right, there is nothing better in the world, and you forget all the struggles you went through to get that joy when you do get it. I really enjoy my RKE's, and I love my feisty bride of 13 years, and I drive a minivan, so I can't comment on the european sports car thing.
Quote:Peter,Why would the famous 'floaty' effect of the RKE 28 be diminished by using eyecups? Is it because the 'floaty' effect requires to also see the background apparently surrounding the narrow rim of metal surrounding the eye lens? If so, then the demand to perceive the 'floaty' effect is actually detrimental, for the non image-forming light can only interfere. When observing dim, low contrast scenes, ALL extraneous light should be assiduously and totally blocked from view. I have for my home-made binocular a couple of eyepieces which also offer the same kind of 'floaty' effect, but even when out at a very dark site I find that I must employ a dark hood that wraps around the eyepieces sufficiently so as to fully block the view of the entirety of the surrounds and background. Any light other than that making up the image in the eyepiece is intrusive, distracting and injurious to the detection of the faint targets I strive to see. In short, I strive to eliminate the perception of the 'floaty' effect, by permitting only the image itself to be seen in splendid, isolating darkness.
SyedTeeter STS 11 f/4.3 Zambuto | XT8i | XT8g | XLT 150 | C90 | EON 80mmAT Voyager and Nexstar SLT mountsEyepieces: Mostly TeleVue and PentaxDenk II BV'er, Earthwin PFS-SE, Pentax 10x50 PCF WP II
Quote:Starman,I LOVE my RKE's, I LOVE binoviewing, but even I am not completely convinced of hand tracking bino'd 28 RKE's on an altaz mount other than a dob. (The dob is a piece of cake with a little practice.)When your tracking is in place it should go smoother. But with or without tracking, if you're not sitting, it will be a struggle. If you were standing on your first try, please try it sitting down. Did you get the rubber eyeguard boots with yours? As I said above, they make holding your head position MUCH easier (while seated). Downside, using the booties completely negates the floaty effect for me. But, as I said above, it turns out I love the RKE's even without the floaty effect. I leave the boots on mine now.Good luck and keep at it. Once you get it it is pretty cool.Peter T.
Quote:I just bought a pair of the 28mm RKEs from Surplus Shed while they were on sale for $35 each. I just couldn't pass them up. I also plan to use them with WO binos and my f6 5"APO on a tracking mount. I understand the comments about eye relief and black out. But what about vignetting with the narrow optical path of the WO binos. Is there much of that that I can expect?
Quote:The RKE's blackout unless you get your head JUST right even in mono mode. This gets even worse when you are trying to line up two at once. I find it critical to get your IP adjustment perfect AND VIEW SEATED. You move your head even a microscopic amount and you lose the view.The RKE's measure eye relief in yards, not mm. This is great for glasses wearers AND for minimizing eyepiece fogging, BUT, it's not so great when you have a streetlight nearby, a neighbors porch light, etc. You can address this with the rubber boots that come with them, but that eliminates the "floaty" effect and that's half the reason I use them. I tend to cup my hands around the eyepieces when viewing, others use hoods.3. The "floaty effect", even with the binoviewers, is awesome.Peter T.
Quote:I bought a pair from Surplus Shed. Didn't believe what everyone said here about the view being hard to hold. Well, it is, even seated. The jury is still out on this for me. I think I would be happer with a mid-20mm wide angle pair, other than the RKEs.
Dave JessieOutreach Events
Quote:I have an old 22mm Panoptic. Would it work as well, assuming I can find a mate? Alot cheaper since I only need one, and it would be used.
B Cuddihee 1968 Jason Empire 60X700mm refractor 1977 Jason Empire 313 discoveror EQ Celestron Nexstar8SE "The Bumblebee", with Feathertouch Microfocuser, and Celestron CPC Heavy Duty Tripod. Stellarvue 50mm "Sparrowhawk" finder Denk bino's with Power x switch. Pair of Edmund 28 plossls. Pair of Edmund 28 RKE'S Pair of 24mm Brandons. Pair of Smart Astronomy 19 EF's. Pair of 18mm Celestron Ultimas
Quote:the 28's are just plain awesome in a bino....
Meade LS8 ACF Meade 2" Diagonal Apetura 10" Tweakers Package Meade ETX-125, ETX-90 for Solar Celestron 80mm APO PST Meade SWA - 34mm,28mm,24mm,20mm Brandon 32mm, 16mm Vernonscope 40mm Erfle 2" ES 14mm,11mm,6.7mm 8.8 Nagler 13mm T6, Pan 19mm Meade 12.4 Pl,9.7mm, 15mm SP Meade 2x Shorty Barlow Powermate 2.5x WO Bino Viewer, 20mm 66* pair Denkmier 2 Super System Meade Nebula Filters Meade 9x60 Bino Vivitar S1 8x42 Bino Canon T2i, 18-55mm, 50mm 1.8, 55-250mm
C14 XLT, CGE NexSTAR 11 GPS + 120ST APM/TMB 130/780, AT111EDT SW EQ5P (2" Tripod/20" Pier) XW's 3.5mm - 20mm, 28mm RG, TVZ 2-4 ES14mm/20mm 100° UWAN 28mm,Paragon 40mm, TV55, Meade 2X 2" TeleXtender TMB SMC 4mm-16mm, Pentax 0-18, CZJ 0-25 EarthWin PFS-DBSE, WO DuraBright, AP MaxBright TV Bino's Bino Sets X 2: UO H.D's ~ 5mm-18mm, TV Pl.(NJ's)7.4mm - 40mm 16T5's, 24mm Pans Canon 18X50 IS Pentax 7X35 (9.3°