The opinions expressed herein are solely mine as an amateur astronomer hobbyist & consumer. Information herein was correlated from experience, discussions with others, & research from multiple sources freely available at time of posting. All reasonable care & skill was used, but no warranty is made as to accuracy, & liability cannot be accepted for errors/omissions. This is for information only and not intended nor implied to be a substitute for professional advice.
Quote:I am curious about the Barrel lens group on the 8mm. If the threads are the same then would be interesting to see how that grouping affects the other Plossls in the line if I exchange barrels.
B Cuddihee 1968 Jason Empire 60X700mm refractor 1977 Jason Empire 313 discoveror EQ Celestron Nexstar8SE "The Bumblebee", with Feathertouch Microfocuser, and Celestron CPC Heavy Duty Tripod. Stellarvue 50mm "Sparrowhawk" finder Denk bino's with Power x switch. Pair of Edmund 28 plossls. Pair of Edmund 28 RKE'S Pair of 24mm Brandons. Pair of Smart Astronomy 19 EF's. Pair of 18mm Celestron Ultimas
C8HD CG5 EQ
Quote:Jim your observation seem to be on par with mine on the 28's, the 21's and the 15's. These are just plain great IMO, and at around 39.00 US, a fantastic buy. I have pairs of these and use them in bino's.bc
Compustar C14 Leo Henzl's Custom C8(VP Sales Celestron) Celestar C8 6" Refractor Adv. GT mount 6" F5 Omni XLT Newt. LXD-75 F4 Imaging SN8 Meade 8" F6 Newtonian Dynamax DX6 Criterion RV-6 ETX-90 Astro Meade 2045 4" SCT B&L 4000 Vixen/Celestron 80mm F11 JC Penny 60mm AZ/ALT Refractor 1963 60mm 15-60 B&L Spotter Binos 25x100 8X40 20x80 Arcturus Bino-Viewer
“I am the only person to ever ace a 1951 USAF resolution test. My 'to observe' list says 'done'. I do not use charts or atlases when I starhop; men do not use maps. One of my sketches won an SBIG deep sky imaging contest. I am the life of star parties I have never attended. I never say anything looks like a faint fuzzy - not even a faint fuzzy. Pilots aim green laser pointers at me. Don Pensack proofreads my CN forum posts.” - The Most Interesting Astronomer in the Universe
C10NGT, Z8, 150 Rumak, XLT 150, C6, C5, SW5 Newt, 4.5 Ball, C102GT, C90, ST80, A70LF; 15x70, 25x100; Burgess BV; Paracorr II; T6 2.5, XO 2.58/5.1, Ethos-SX 3.7, Delos 4.5, TV Plossl 7.4-26, BCO 10, Hutech HC 12.5, Sterling 12.5-25, ES100 14, CZJ H 16/25, CZJ O 16, M5k UWA 24, T5 31, Ultrascopic 35, Titan-II 40; Bino Pairs M5k UWA 6.7, Baader Zoom 8-24, M5k SWA 24, TV Plossl 26, RKE 28.7; Zooms NZ 2-4, NZ 3-6, Leica ASPH 8.9-17.8, Baader 8-24; Baader Zoom Barlow, VIP Barlow
Quote:Bill:How do the Edmund Plossls stack up to your Sterling Plossls?Regards,Jim
Quote:Sterlings are brighter, and of course have the wider 55-57 deg AFOV. The 28mm Edmund Plossl is sort of like a well behaved version of the 28 RKE. Very nice. Edmund does not say the coatings used on the Plossls, but I suspect they are single coated.
Eager to get the Cave 6" f/4 out with some 'high' (medium in this scope) power eyepieces!
Quote:I have some Brandons with amber coatings, others with bluish. I'm not sure of the significance. But I'm sure there's a thread or two here on CN which mentions it.Yellowish ones are the newer coating group used by Don. He started using these a few years ago, maybe 3 or 4. The actually present a brighter image. I had both varieties and can really tell the difference on nebula and galaxies with the yellow coating group showing more extent of faint fuzzies.Mike
Quote:Another sticking point for me is the apparent simple coating (one coat?) on the Edmund Plossls. I'm starting to think more and more that fully multicoated optics - as long as they are applied "optimally" - are virtually always better than simpler coatings. Simpler coatings tend to keep the eye from seeing all that is there to see in the object.
Quote:I agree, but it is also target related. For planets and Moon I find the little extra light that multicoatings give is inconsequential. But if you are a faint fuzzy hunter or a glob fanatic, then the little extra photon gathering of FMC makes a difference, even for simple 4-element designs like Plossls.
Quote:Of course, one could argue that coatings are irrelevant for eyepieces because eyepieces really don't matter compared to main objectives so if you are so worried about transmission more effective for you to just pull a larger aperture scope out of your telescope case
Quote:All my "deep sky" Brandons have the newer amber coatings. I have two Brandons which have the old-style bluish coatings, a 16 and a 12. I pair them with amber versions of the 16 and 12 for binoviewing planets / lunar, while I use only amber Brandons for DSO. (I did not buy them with this in mind, but it seems the best use of what I have).Mike
CPC1100, Celestar8, PST plus club access to a 24" Boller&Chivens, C16, and many more toys.