World Explorer, Satellite Development, and all that...
LX850 & Astronomy blog: http://lx850.tumblr.com
Ok, equipment list…for reference purposes only!
…Missing my RV-6. Why oh why did I sell it?!?!?!?
Quote:The big questions I want to really find out -* I love my eyepieces, but will I finally get beyond the faint fuzzies without doing LOOONG GUIDED exposures (I do love my Canon 60Da btw). Will this camera be my primary way to view the sky?* Will the faint fuzzies look "real" in 1 minute or less?* I do public outreach - I think in theory video astronomy is the way to go. Will it REALLY work. I will find out this Saturday...* How tough is it to use this camera correctly? I do have the wireless exposure control AND MallinCam Control from MiloSlick on the Macintosh. And I also have the wireless control of the telescope via Sky Safari Pro from Southern Stars.* Testing will initially be on a 10" LX200 and Coronado PST. Next up will be the 14" LX850. Will it really work with ease across the telescopes.
Uncle Rod Uncle Rod's Astroblog: http://uncle-rods.blogspot.com/
Quote:I do understand focal ratio is everything, but with the larger scope aren't you collecting way more photons than a smaller scope? So yes more detail and bigger, but also shorter exposure times because, well, you have a big bucket collecting all that light. I have to believe at the same f/ratio the 14" will beat the 10" or 5" or whatever in exposure time due to all those photons it is grabbing.
Nytecam 51N 0.1W Meade 30cm LX200 astrograph+C8+Ha+CaK PSTs+spectrographs SX M9+Lodestar-C+M CCDs/Canon 1100D DSLR My Meade astrograph-colour deepsky My supernova discovery My dome build/spectroscopes/DSO images/Lodestar colour images & videos
Quote:Uncle Rod,BUT you raise a very interesting point that I have seen repeated. I do understand focal ratio is everything, but with the larger scope aren't you collecting way more photons than a smaller scope? So yes more detail and bigger, but also shorter exposure times because, well, you have a big bucket collecting all that light. I have to believe at the same f/ratio the 14" will beat the 10" or 5" or whatever in exposure time due to all those photons it is grabbing.
LS60THa/B1200 Cerevolo 8" F5 MN Orion 11 SCT Tak EM200, Meade 6" F5 Newt, Starblast 4.5", ETX 90 C6 SCT, Meade 90 mm F9 refractor Meade 10"SN Canon T3, Mallincam Extreme
Quote:BUT...BUT...when viewing the Sun I noticed dust particles on the screen. Checking everything, the dust was on the Mallincam Sensor, yikes! Can this be cleaned with a camel hair brush/blower combo? Or do I have to accept the dust forever? Afraid to destroy the sensor.
NSN Channel: BigAppleSkies
CPC 1100 with HD Pro Wedge with ETX-70 Finder Celestar C8, C80ED and PST Istar 150 Anistigmatic R30 on CGEM Jason 313 from 1975! Mallincam Extreme & Mallincam SSIc & Mallincam Micro DSI Pro, Orion SSAG, GPUSB, Nautilus Filterwheel JMI, Celestron and Orion MotoFocus, FCUSB1&2 Hyperion 5,13, ES 18, 30, OR 18, 25 TV 2.5x Powermate, WO Binoviewer with pairs: TV 7 Naglers, WO 20 and RKE 28
Quote:For the fastest final f/ratio, you should dispense with the diagonal. Putting accessories between scope and camera forces you to have to move the focus farther back. This has two ramifications on the SCT. The focal length and f/ratio is increased, and significantly! And beyond a certain point, the aperture becomes reduced (!) which increases the f/ratio even more (!).You should strive to get everything as close to the OTA as much as possible. To this end, the most elegant solution is the Meade f/3.3 reducer. It has been designed to correct both coma and spherical aberration, and moreover does not cause vignetting nor aperture reduction. It threads directly to the back of the OTA.Now, the alt-as mount configuration may dissuade you from dispensing with the disgonal, so that you retain swing-through at the zenith. I wouldn't worry about this, for two reasons. The mount can be set to not exceed any defined altitude, which keeps from hitting the base. And in alt-az mode, the zenith is not a good place to image due to field rotation increasing rapidly. You should be able to achieve an elevation of about 75 degrees; the 15 degree radius cap of the sky comprises only 7% of the area of the celestial hemisphere. You need only wait a bit for an object up there to clear the 'zone of avoidance', sampling much other goodies in the meantime.