BackyardEOS ~ Purpose-built astrophotography software!http://www.backyardeos.com/CANON, NIKON, QSI, SBIG, ATIK, SX, ASI, QHY, SSAGAT8RC, AT6RC, AT65EDQ, EON 120mm, Lunt 60THa B1200ASTRODON LRGB Ha NII SII OIII (3nm), IDAS, CLS, SkyGlow10Micron GM2000HPS (ordered), NEQ6, HEQ5, CG5-GTOne clear night a year
Thanks, Mitch... "fmhill"
Quote:Guylain Rochon who is both a "advanced" amateur astronomer and a very clever software writer
Orion XT8 Classic, Self built EQ platform
AstroTech 72ED, AstroTech 6 Imaging Newt
Celestron Advanced VX EQ Mount
Celestron NexStar SE 4/5 Mount (for grab and go)
Canon T3i, Canon XT (Hap Griffin Baader Mod)
QHY5L-II Mono/Orion 50MM Mini
Fort Bend Astronomy Club
Quote:I have now acquired a netbook and have downloaded a trial of Backyard EOS. .... I think it is going to be a no brainer decision to purchase it. It is going to make my imaging so much easier.
Quote:I started out the hard way. Taking images with just the camera and no laptop.
Quote:I took some rather startling images with just a 100 dollar camera with an eyepiece superglued to it the other night
If You haven't improved the world in some way ,why are you here?
1987 Meade LX3 2120 10" SCT on hypertuned EQ6 Pro Baader Self-Mod Canon XS_CLS Clip Filter DSI color_Orion ST80 Coulter 10" Compact Odessey Dob http://www.astrobin.com/users/shawnhar
Quote:Quote:I have now acquired a netbook and have downloaded a trial of Backyard EOS. .... I think it is going to be a no brainer decision to purchase it. It is going to make my imaging so much easier. It is a no-brainer to use as well. I consider it the PHD (Push Here Dummy) of DSLR imaging software. I like it when smart people (Stark/Guylain) make it easy for my not-that-smart mind to make pretty pictures.
-Jarrod- Ahwahnee Hills Observatory 10" AT10rccf OTA Mounted on a Hypertuned Losmandy G11 Camera: Canon T4i http://www.astrobin.com/users/powerstroke01/
Francisco Celestron C-8 Orange, Stelarvue 105 TMB F6.2, Orion 80ED APO, Tasco 9VR. SBIG-10XME, DMK 21AU04.AS, ZWO ASI120MM, Canon 1000D, Canon T2i (modified by B.O.) Nikkor 180mm 2.8 , Takumar SMC 135, Tair 3S 300, nifty fifty, Canon 200mm 2.8, Rokinor 8mm FE MaximDL / BYE / PHD /DSS /PS Losmandy G-11, CGE, AstroTrac AG Orion Guider http://www.flickr.com/photos/f...oherreraphotography/
Quote:That backyard EOS software is outstanding! Thank you so much. I captured a nice 104. I had to borrow hubble's starfield, since mine trailed a bit, but the core 104 came out nice
Quote:Live view is not meant to shoot deep sky targets; these requires long exposure of several minutes using BULB. Live view only shows a few milliseconds of data per frames so this is simply not enough.
SCOPES: CPC1100; AT66ED; EdgeHD 8";SVR90T RAPTOR
MOUNTS: CGEM; Vixen GP2; iOptron Sky Tracker; Celestron AVX
CAMERAS: Canon 60D;Lodestar
EYEPIECES:TV N31T5;Delos14;Delos8;Pan27; PL20;PL25;PL32;TMB9
The Lord sits enthroned above the circle of the earth...He stretched out the heavens like a canopy.
Quote: Quote:Live view is not meant to shoot deep sky targets; these requires long exposure of several minutes using BULB. Live view only shows a few milliseconds of data per frames so this is simply not enough.
I take that to mean that live view only works on fairly bright stars, and therefore the Frame and Focus in BYEOS only really works when you have a bright star in the field. Even then, I'm not sure what the Frame part of that means since you can't see the object. I know I'm certainly missing something there, but what?
Quote: you are correct that live view only shows bright objects and is of little use for framing.
Quote:to the right of the image window in the lower section of the BYEOS display, I set the maximum ISO setting of my camera and then a exposure time that I know by experience gives a bright enough image so I can adjust the aim of the mount & telescope to give me the image framing I like. With my Canon 60Da camera the settings I use are ISO 6400, exposure 2 to 5 seconds is usually enough. Below the settings, the left most push-button allows you to make a single image or if you are focusing, the button to the right of it puts the imaging into a loop constantly refreshing the image being displayed... To cancel, in the upper left corner of the BYEOS window, under the counting wheel, click the abort button...