Stellarvue SV70ED, UA DwarfStar, Oberwerk / AstroTech AT80EDT, AT Voyager / Celestron C6XLT, AT Voyager / Meade 8" LightBridge / Vixen VMC 110L (Baader Solar Film), Porta II / Celestron Nexstar 102GT, ES Twilight I / Oberwerk 20x80 DIII, Orion 10x50 Resolux
"I have been paddling in the shallows of a great ocean of knowledge." - Sir Isaac Newton * * 15" F4.55 Starsplitter Dob & a Denk II binoviewer * * http://peaceofsky.wordpress.com/ Pacheco State Park Fremont Peak
Binos: APM100 | Obie 20x80D3 | Resolux 15x70, 7x50 | Nikon AE 12x50, 7x35 | FMT-SX 10x50 | Canon 10x30 | Vanguard ED 8x42
Mounts: AVX | Orion Paragon | Tecnosky eLLe
Telescopes: XT8g | AT6RC | Onyx 80EDF | 102GT | ST80
1.25" EPs: Hyperion 8, 17mm | ES68º: 20, 24mm | ES82º: 4.7, 6.7, 8.8, 11, 14mm
2" EPs: Meade 5k 82º: 24, 30mm | ES100º: 5.5, 9, 14, 20mm
14" Strut; 10"XT; 102ES; 22 in Process; 3.5,5,7,10,14,20mm Pentax XW; 17.3 & 12mm Delos; 27mm Panoptic; 20&24mm ES 68; 24mm ES 82; 30mm ES 82; 6&10mm BCO;
Quote:Collimation refers to aligning the mirrors and focuser tube to one another. It's therefore important that the collimating tools are centered and parallel to the focuser tube. But once the scope is correctly collimated, it's not as important for the eye piece to be perfectly centered to enjoy the benefit. Parallel is probably quite important, however.I spent a good chunk of my weekend with the Hotech, trying every technique I could think of to find which one creates the most reproducible results. What I found is that the self-centering mechanism does not behave well with compression-ring style visual backs becuase there is very little perfectly flat and non-pliable surface area for the rubber centering rings to press against. If I instead put on a visual back that has set screws (and therefore a smooth inside for the rubber rings to grab), I get much more repeatable results (leaving the setscrews backed out - not tightened against the laser). within a couple mm in terms of where the laser hits the primary on each insertion. This appears to be enough to give a consistent readout with the barlowed laser center-spot shadow which seems to be the gold standard for primary alignment.Also, results are not as repeatable if you are only snugging the laser to the point where it can still rotate in the focuser. When I get it tight enough that it won't budge, the results are better in terms of repeatability and I therefore assume accuracy.Those are my notes on how to make best use of the Hotech. However, I agree with MikeB that the proper solution is a collimator built to extremely high tolerance that simply goes into the focuser one way and one way only. In that ideal case there would be no need for "proper technique" and therefore no room for user error.
We mostly come out at night... mostly.
GSO Z8 Degree Circle & Digital Level
Celestron 4"(102mm) SLT 660mm f/6.47
2" 30mm GSO WideView
9mm GSO Plossl
ES 82's : 4.7mm, 8.8mm, 11mm, 18mm
BGO's 5mm, 6mm, 9mm
2" 2X ED Astronomics Barlow & GSO 1.25" 2x Shorty
8-24 Baader Zoom III
Baader M&SG, Semi-Apo
My eyepieces are made from the waste product of exploding stars.
10XTi 102XLT ST80A(2" Focuser); President, Eypieces Anonymous, Denver Chapter (Hello, I'm an eyepiece junky, what's your excuse?)
DAS Dark Site
Quote:I have 1.5 inch Hotech that I had listed for sale. No takers.
XT10 classic with premium optics Tri-knob CR2 focuser
Catseye + Glatter collimation tools
StarBlast 4.5" & 6"
Round Table Platform
Quote: Also, results are not as repeatable if you are only snugging the laser to the point where it can still rotate in the focuser. When I get it tight enough that it won't budge, the results are better in terms of repeatability and I therefore assume accuracy.
Quote:I was snugging awfully tight! Again, it may be the grooved tube walls at work in my non-repeatable results?
Quote:If a smooth drawtube is all that the Hotech requires, then its "o-ring" gripping design may actually be as good as it sounds!
Quote: However, you don't need to spend $300 on a Glatter system to get an accurate collimation.