Quote: But I am wondering if getting a Self Centering Adapter to be a good Idea as well. Any thoughts on if a Self Centering Adapter is worth purchasing.
Quote:I would suggest you consider this adapter: http://www.collimator.com and click on the link, "NEW - The Parallizer".
Quote: Quote: But I am wondering if getting a Self Centering Adapter to be a good Idea as well. Any thoughts on if a Self Centering Adapter is worth purchasing. It could be worth purchasing. First I would make sure your laser is properly seated in the adapter. The laser has a shoulder that is supposed to fit up against the adapter, that is what ensures the alignment. Push on the laser and rotate it to make sure the shoulder is up against the adapter flange all the way around as you tighten up the adapter.Jon
Quote:...I wonder if they make a Focuser with it built in for 2" eyepieces.?
Quote:Quote:...I wonder if they make a Focuser with it built in for 2" eyepieces.?That's a good question (and one I've discussed with Howie)--they don't, yet.FWIW, my 2-inch tools and eyepieces seem to be less susceptible to registration errors than my 1.25-inch gear. But my Parallizer has fixed the 1.25-inch registration issues.
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Orion ED80 - AT Voyager with TNT,pier ext.,Vixon steel tray and Manny's mod.
Omni 120 cg4 with Orion pier ext. and RA drive, Binotron-27 (25mm & 17mm Sterlings)
Orion XT10(Original F/5) SkyStopper Equatorial Platform
Jason Constellation Model 311(Modified with 1.25"Crawford Machine focuser & rings)
Quote: However the laser OTOH when tilted by the setscrew, has to go all the way to the mirror (or lens), and any local tilt by the time it gets to the mirror has magnified by the distance and can be off quite a bit - and this can cause miscollimation of the return reflection,
Quote:You want the collimation to hit the center of the eyepiece (or the drawtube, if you will). The eyepiece can tilt quite a bit but it does not matter much, it's a "local tilt" and does not effect the image - the center is still pretty much centered and that is where the image is focused.
AD10, NoName8, DS-16 with Spooner primary.
ES, Sterling, Parks, Baader, TV, GSO EP's and a lone Nagler.
Nikon, Celestron binos
Quote:How can it possibly be true that the EP is so tolerant of axial misalignment as you suggest? It makes no sense to me.
Quote:Hi Vector, Sorry about the ordering problem - I'll try to fix it asap. In the meantime, you can just e-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org or phone at 718 796 3203. I'm checking a batch into stock now. Each one is tested in a long path laser set up with a "perfect" 1.25" collimator inside it, rolling it within a "perfect" cylinder as a stand-in for a drawtube. Regarding the O.P.'s question in the title of this thread, I think we should stop worrying about the centering, and instead worry about the tipping.
Quote:The Parallizer certainly works, but when I got the Self-centering adapter from Agena it worked as well. I would collimate with one or the other and then check with the one I didn't use to find that nothing had changed. This is after adjusting the secondary and also using the Tublug for primary adjustments. Some, (myself included), think that there is another advantage with the self-centering adapter with the ease of changing eyepieces. I'm keeping both since I like the confirmation aspect, but you might want to consider the other possible advantage to the self-centering adapter when you make a purchasing decision.Eric
Quote: ". . since you mentioned the tiping. I take it you mean the laser itself" I don't mean tipping of the laser beam with respect to the laser collimator housing. Let's theoretically assume a perfect collimator - I mean the tipping of the entire laser collimator, or eyepiece, or camera nosepiece, within the holder (drawtube or adapter). This is what creates the optical problems; not a small sideways offset of the accessory. As long as the axis remain parallel, you are o.k.As has been mentioned, tip seems less of a problem for one-eyed visual observing. I think that's because of the capability of our visual system to accomodate small amounts of misfocus. Imaging chips can't do that yet :-) Tipping is a problem for high power bino-viewing, because the image moves in the field, and then inter-ocular collimation is lost. And of course, tipping is a terrible problem when using collimation tools."I noticed that the laser is set in there at an angle . . is it common for the laser to coming out of the actual houseing at an angle like that?"Yes. Many low-quality laser collimators use cheap key-chain type laser pointers, which have infinitely permissive tolerance on beam alignment. They are typically powered by three small button cells that last many minutes.Vector, at the moment I can receive but not send e-mail, so I will reply to your e-mail tomorrow, or send you a PM here.
Quote:I recommend using this adapter with an eyepiece barrel extender or a Baader Fine Tuning Ring.
ES AR152 (By PowellAstro) iOPTRON IEQ45 Mount, Orion XX12i,Orion 80mm Short tube, Celestron C8 w/XLT OTA, ES 9mm 100 deg, ES 82deg complete set, ES 28mm 68deg, ES 2X 2 inch barlow. TV 35 & 41 Panoptics. Several other eyepieces, Telrad w/variable pulse, Artificial Star, Kendrick DigiFire 7 Kendrick dew heaters, Glatter Laser System, Filters, Celestron 25X100 binoculars Garrett tri-pod --------------------------- Looking to the heavens for little green people
Jeff Morgan - Wile E. Coyote School of Telescope Making
Quote:Hi Jeff,"Secondly and more troubling is the securing method. There is no compression ring, a brass set screw bears directly against the eyepiece barrel. The set screw appears to have some sort of rubberized coating dabbed on the tip, but how durable will that prove to be?"I'm happy to tell you that you've got that wrong. The clamp screw has an acetyl (Delrin) tip, which is a very tough plastic, not a "rubberized coating", and it is permanently fixed deep into the brass screw. You can crank it down as hard as you like without danger of the metal contacting the eyepiece. So called "compression rings" do protect the eyepiece barrel from marring, but do not compress the eyepiece all around like a collet or split-ring, and create problems with eyepiece registration and eyepiece "saftey groove" lock-up.
Quote:"the eyepiece end is a rather deeply inverted volcano top - . . The depth could be very problematic"In my opinion, you've got this wrong, too. The conical recess is there so that there is no loss of in-travel for situations where the eyepiece needs it. Eyepieces seat at the same depth as the 2" drawtube lip, as can be clearly seen in your photo.The recess has to be conical in my design to clear the clamp screw shaft. While some eyepieces with wide upper bodies will not seat all the way down, they will still work fine with the Parallizer if the extra in-travel is not needed.
Quote:But would it be acceptable to not fully seat these types of eyepieces? For example, place the eyepiece in the adapter such that it is flush with the top?
Celestron C11+EQ6, skywatcher /Zambuto 12"dob,watchhouse tracking platform, 16"/Zambuto lightbridge , Ethos's 6,8,10,13,17,21. Naglers 31,26. Lieca ash zoom, televue 2.5 powermate,2"2x powermate .Paracorr type2. Howie glatter 2" laser & Tublug. Lumicon 2" UHC, 03, H-Beta,Televue smoothies ( all of em) , Meade 4000 smoothies ( all of em). That'll do for now.
Meade LS8 ACF Meade 2" Diagonal Apetura 10" Tweakers Package Meade ETX-125, ETX-90 for Solar Celestron 80mm APO PST Meade SWA - 34mm,28mm,24mm,20mm Brandon 32mm, 16mm Vernonscope 40mm Erfle 2" ES 14mm,11mm,6.7mm 8.8 Nagler 13mm T6, Pan 19mm Meade 12.4 Pl,9.7mm, 15mm SP Meade 2x Shorty Barlow Powermate 2.5x WO Bino Viewer, 20mm 66* pair Denkmier 2 Super System Meade Nebula Filters Meade 9x60 Bino Vivitar S1 8x42 Bino Canon T2i, 18-55mm, 50mm 1.8, 55-250mm
Quote:Hey Nevy,"would it be possible or worthwhile making a 2" diameter paralyser as an aftermarket accessorie that screws into the top of the draw tube to replace the usuall compression ring and or the set screw type . ."Possible, yes, if the top of the drawtube was threaded and had an accurate shoulder to screw down to.Worthwhile, I don't know about that. I think the best place to put the Parallizer feature is right in the 2" focuser drawtube. If I were a conspiracy theorist, this whole thread might be a plot to lure focuser manufacturers into adopting the idea. I am thinking of producing visual backs, camera nose-pieces, and larger size down-adapters with the Parallizer feature.