Looks like you have a good data run, I guess all went well with PHD? can we get a photo of your set up? you said one out of 3 can we get the other two? I would like to see some more if your up to it? also try to do some exposures runs when you get a chance pick a target do 30 sec,60 , 90,150,300,400,600, 780 sec. all guided.
Thanks for the data
Greenfield, Indiana USA
Deforked 1979 Orange C8, WO 66mm APO, 80mm f/7 refractor, Sears 60mm refractor, 80mm Orion short tube
Meade LX80 IOptron zEQ25
Celestron 8SCT ES102APO Orion 90ST CGEM LX80
Quote:I need to redo the PHD run on a,known FL scope using a known star.
Quote:It does look rather ragged, but relatively repeatable.The rate at which it changes is scary tho.
Quote:I'm going to do some other testing tonight with a longer FL OTA. I assume that the error with a very short FL is less accurate than if the FL is longer. Do I have that right?
Quote: Don't guess that would effect the rate of change.
Quote: At this point you could suspect operator error for at least some of the errors!
Quote: Quote: At this point you could suspect operator error for at least some of the errors!Cant see why, ( unless you were sitting alongside the mount and tapping it ).
Quote:Gday Mike Quote: Quote: At this point you could suspect operator error for at least some of the errors!Cant see why, ( unless you were sitting alongside the mount and tapping it ). And now i'm not so sure I looked at your RA data last night ( in PECPrep ), but didn't bother to check the DEC.I loaded that this morning and its almost as big as the RA but inverted.There is also a lot of drift so the polar alignment was also off,but i really think the camera wasnt squared correctly relative to the RA axis.How do you check that the guide camera axes match the true RA/DEC axes??AndrewAttached is a plot of your data ( normalised for drift )
Quote:Is there a way for a normal human to check the camera axis agains that of the scope?
Quote:Mike If I can help any other way let me know. I know it seem like alot to do, but after doing it a few times you will be able to do it quicker. It takes me about a hour from the plus side is I usually leave the mount setup, so the next day flip the switch and your good to go.
Quote:That inverted thing you noticed I have seen that during a run in fact I made a comment to Dennis about one line on the graph seems to be effected by the other.
Money can't buy happiness, but it sure makes living with misery a lot easier!
Quote:Hi Kevin, That great news on the bearings. You would think Meade would stop leaving out the grease where its not seen by now. Having grease sure makes a difference. I hope it works out now. The weather finally cleared. I had noticed my CGEM DX wasn't as easy to balance as I would like, so I tore the whole thing down (you knew I would anyways). I put super lube on the huge tapered roller bearings and the sealed bearings spun ease except 2 of them. I noticed the seals on one side of each were dented so I popped them out and they spun real easy now. They went next to each other so I just made the open sides face each other so in effect they were sealed again. I polished the big brass clutches with emery cloth as well as the aluminum housings. I greased them and the ring and worm gears with super lube also. Now the RA and DEC spin with ease and smooth. Both my worms spun real easy and smooth so I didn't touch them. I adjusted the worm and ring to have almost unnoticeable play (they are not spring loaded). I had noticed a slight ticking in the RA. The motor gear to worm drive gear doesn't line up perfect. I shimmed it slightly and removed backlash and its smooth and quiet now. After all this I happened to find instructions on how to Hypertune this mount. Looks like thats what I just did. I am very pleased with it. I took it out Tuesday night and tried the all star polar alignment. Then I took a 1 minute image, 2 minute, then 3 minute unguided image and they all had round stars. So I tried a 4 minute unguided image (all at f/10). The stars were almost perfect. I almost fell over. All these were at first try. Last night I tried Guiding with PHD. I left everything set at default, centered the star and started guiding. The star stayed centered, perfectly. Every once in a while I saw a slight movement about half the width of the star and it would quickly go back. But it always stayed in contact with the cross hairs. I have never had a mount do this great before. during the hour it never strayed out of contact of the cross hairs or lost lock. I tried to do a PEC recording. I am going to adjust PHD to get it as smooth as possible tonight and re record Pec several times. I downloaded Pempro this morning and I will read and learn how to use it today. I plan to get my Pec smooth so I can get consistent long unguided images. Then I should get really great long guided images.Below is a single 250 second unguided image (no PEC) of Andromeda at f/10, 9.25 ota, ISO 1600 with a Canon T1i taken Tuesday night. I did adjust contrast a little with Picasa. (4min 10sec) The stars aren't perfectly round neilson
What some may view as an argument I view as a different perspective.
Quote:I have to comment here. This thread is 60 pages long. Typically, a thread this long goes off the rails for a myriad reasons. However, you guys have kept it going and kept it fresh. I just want you to know that I really appreciate your work.David
I lost count of my scopes. Now I just want mobility. I came, I saw, I bought some interesting accessories, and put names to faces: NEAF 2012, ASAE 2012, SWAP 2013, ASAE 2013.
Quote:Mike Don't look at The set up and drift as a whole if you do it seem to be Mt. Everest and very overwhelming. But if you look at one step at a time the next thing you know you are on top of the Mountain. And you might want to use the hand controller HCX the first few times you drift align its a little faster and you don't have to disconnect from Autostar suite and connect to PHD every time you change the program.