Adam AP Mach 1, Rob Miller TRI36L, Celestron 8" Edge HD Hyperion 17mm, Celestron 40mm Plossl, TMB 7mm & 9mm WO 66, Lunt LS60/B1200 PT, CG-5 Clone STF-8300m Pro Package, Honis-Modified Canon XS, Un-modded T1i, SSAG, TSOAG9, SX Lodestar
Lackawanna Astronomical Society
Astrophoto: Intes Micro ALTER-M606 (6" f/6 MCT), Astrotech AT6RC (6" f/9 RC), 2x Tair-3 lenses (300mm f/4.5)
Visual: Celestron 8 SCT ('77 Orange Tube, 8" f/10), Selsi #247 Refractor (aka Towa #339, 80mm f/15), Tasco 11TE-5 Newtonian (4.5" f/7.9), Galileoscope (50mm f/10)
Mounts: Celestron CI-700, iOptron ZEQ25GT, Celestron CG5-ASGT, plus a couple old EQ2s My Astrophotography Site: http://ap.x-wing.ca/
Quote:The real test would be a set of averaged dark taken with a battery, compared with a set taken on AC converter. And the results would be determined by how much the different systems heated the internal parts of the camera.Alex
Quote:I was thinking difference in Photoshop, but didn't know what to look for. I guess any pattern is bad. EDIT:I actually found a matched dark from a previous session, so I did the difference method in photoshop. No apparent difference. No pattern. If I stretched the difference image there was random noise.Just based off this, and my results after stacking I'd say it's safe.