Tim Z10 dob, flocked Orion ST-80 Meade Telestar 60mm (where I started) ...and a bunch of eyepieces and stuff. "When I consider your heavens, the work of your fingers, the moon and the stars, which you have set in place, what is man that you are mindful of him, the son of man that you care for him?" --Psalm 8:3-4
9mm Zhumell plossl
10mm Agena SWA
17mm, 25mm Sterling plossls
24mm ES82 30mm Zhumell wide field
TV and Knight Owl 2X barlows
Lumicon UHC and OIII filters
Quote:Here's one showing where I placed the counterweight magnet for optimum balance:
XT10 classic with premium optics Tri-knob CR2 focuser
Catseye + Glatter collimation tools
StarBlast 4.5" & 6"
Round Table Platform
Quote:However, there are some concentric diffraction rings that show up within the center of the donut that make an excellent "target," as shown here:
Quote:Use a jig, or two sets of nails in "V" formation in a block, or anything else that lets you rotate the laser freely while pointing at a paper taped to the wall. Use the three tiny allen screws at the back of the laser to adjust the beam until it rotates without inscribing a circle.
Quote:Improve your airflow. Adding a baffle to the back of the tube will direct more air up the pipe. Check out this sample posted by Hudson Yak.
Quote:Quote:Here's one showing where I placed the counterweight magnet for optimum balance: Refer to my post. I described how I built my magnet-based counter-weight is such a way to yield maximum grasp.Jason
Quote:Insert a washer (or two!). Jason D brought this great idea up in this post in the "squirrely secondary mirror adjustments" thread (the thread is a great read by itself). The basic idea is to cut out a washer out of a plastic milk jug to make rotating your secondary easier and allow adjustment of just one screw without having to also tweak the other two. I believe Jason now advocates stacking two of these washers together for greater improvement.
Quote:Quote:However, there are some concentric diffraction rings that show up within the center of the donut that make an excellent "target," as shown here:I prefer this method over the aperture stop method. See attachment. The method with the barlow is less sensitive to tilts because the barlow lens and the laser window will move in opposite directions cancelling each other -- unlike the aperture stop method.The negative lens of the barlowed laser method magnifies the returned center spot shadow – that is why it appears larger. Of course, such a problem will not exist with Glatter’s TuBlug. Jason
14" Strut; 10"XT; 102ES; 22 in Process; 3.5,5,7,10,14,20mm Pentax XW; 17.3 & 12mm Delos; 27mm Panoptic; 20&24mm ES 68; 24mm ES 82; 30mm ES 82; 6&10mm BCO;
Quote:I just did the milk jug double washer "mod" tonight. I was thinking of using one of those foam washers that usually come in a spindle of CD-Rs but ended up just cutting them out of the milk jug instead. Now I can actually see what screws do what (each one sticks to a single axis). Before the washers, I was turning them at random because they never gave consistent results.
C10NGT, Z8, 150 Rumak, XLT 150, C6, C5, SW5 Newt, 4.5 Ball, C102GT, C90, ST80, A70LF; 15x70, 25x100; Burgess BV; Paracorr II; T6 2.5, XO 2.58/5.1, Ethos-SX 3.7, Delos 4.5, TV Plossl 7.4-26, BCO 10, Hutech HC 12.5, Sterling 12.5-25, ES100 14, CZJ H 16/25, CZJ O 16, M5k UWA 24, T5 31, Ultrascopic 35, Titan-II 40; Bino Pairs M5k UWA 6.7, Baader Zoom 8-24, M5k SWA 24, TV Plossl 26, RKE 28.7; Zooms NZ 2-4, NZ 3-6, Leica ASPH 8.9-17.8, Baader 8-24; Baader Zoom Barlow, VIP Barlow
Quote:Tha's got me wondering if I have enough flocking material left over to make a makeshift light shield. Looks like some tinkering is in order this evening.I would think if the backing was left on and I used a sharpie to blacken out, why would it not work?
Quote: Tim, how do you feel about the benifit of a light Shield? on a scope thats already flocked?
Quote:I think this is a good solution to the problem of a scope losing its balance when eyepieces are changed.
Quote: On mine, when I change EP's, I just reach down and shove the magnet up or down a little. A small strip of duct tape gives it enough friction to keep it from sliding. Working without any tension device like you do certainly makes balancing more critical! Glad you found a way that works.