C10NGT, Z8, 150 Rumak, XLT 150, C6, C5, SW5 Newt, 4.5 Ball, C102GT, C90, ST80, A70LF; 15x70, 25x100; Burgess BV; Paracorr II; T6 2.5, XO 2.58/5.1, Ethos-SX 3.7, Delos 4.5, TV Plossl 7.4-26, BCO 10, Hutech HC 12.5, Sterling 12.5-25, ES100 14, CZJ H 16/25, CZJ O 16, M5k UWA 24, T5 31, Ultrascopic 35, Titan-II 40; Bino Pairs M5k UWA 6.7, Baader Zoom 8-24, M5k SWA 24, TV Plossl 26, RKE 28.7; Zooms NZ 2-4, NZ 3-6, Leica ASPH 8.9-17.8, Baader 8-24; Baader Zoom Barlow, VIP Barlow
My eyepieces are made from the waste product of exploding stars. 10XTi 102XLT ST80A(2" Focuser) XW: All; XO: 2.58 Televue: Naglers-T1 Smoothside-full set, 17T4,12T4,Ethos 17,4.7; plossels-40,32,20,17,&7.4mm; Pans-22,24mm; Delos-6,8,12,17.3mm ES100: 5.5,9*,14,20 ES82: full set ES68: 16,20,24,34 NLV: 5,9,10,15 Ortho: HD-7,9; OPS-9,12 Meade RG 7mm Other: Pentax 12.5K(.965), 10mm Parks Zoom: Nag3-6 *=on b/o DAS Dark Site
• Celestron Ultima 8, f/10 • Zhumell Z12, f/4.9 • Intes MK-67, f/12 • Celestron C5 Orange Tube, f/10 • WO 80mm Fluorite APO, f/6.9 • Carton 60mm ATM, f/16.7 • a few Plössls, a few Orthos, a few Königs, an Erfle or two, a few SWA, a few UWA, a couple SUWA... • CG-5 ASGT, CG-5, & AT Voyager "It's amazing what you can see if you look... " Yogi Berra
Quote:There is no way I'd be able to schlep my Z8 outside on the Dob mount as a unit. That's just not happening. My telescopes are stored upstairs. I'd have to carry the Z8 - as a unit - down a flight of stairs in the house, then out onto my porch, and down another flight of the stairs to the ground. Like I said, that ain't happenin'!
Taking out my Z8 or larger scopes requires at least two trips: one for the OTA, one for the base.
Antares 12" Dob Stellarvue 10*60 finder Telrad Meade 25mm Plossl, Orion 10mm plossl, Celestron 6mm plossl, Paradigm 18mm,15mm,12mm, 8mm, Knight Owl 20mm, Shorty 2x barlow, Celeston Ultima 2x Catseye Triple Pack Collimation 4.5" Tasco 11TR Frankenscope 60mm Tasco 9TE-5 60mm Tasco 7T Oberwerk 12*60 binos
Quote:A question on your base. Is it identical to the original? Did you modify the sides or bottom parts at all in shape or dimension?Thanks
Quote:I keep my Z8 secured on its Dob base in a corner of my bedroom upstairs. When I want to take it outside, first I unhook the OTA and rest it lengthwise on my bed. The OTA is always in one of three places: in its base, on the bed, or on the bench outside. I would never chance setting an OTA vertically on its own. When I take my 10" to the dark site, it's in a large OTA bag. When I remove it from the bag, I immediately place it on the Dob mount. There's a lot of dew in our area, so I bring along a tarp that I can lay the OTA on at the end of the observing session, while I wipe the dew off with towels. Only then do I return the OTA to the bag in my vehicle. The idea never crossed my mind to rest any OTA vertically unless it's in the Dob mount. Not something I'd ever do. Mike
Brian S. Johnson
All Terrain Z10 http://tinyurl.com/ouxfsyu with refigured primary, 63mm Protostar secondary.
Quote:Exactly! Resting the OTA vertically is inherently the most unstable position ... unless it's in the Dob base. My advice: buy a bench for your yard and lay the OTA on the bench. Benches usually have a curved seat that will prevent the OTA from rolling off onto the ground. What's going to prevent the OTA from falling when resting vertically? Three little pegs? At my dark site, I set up on grass. That is the best area to set up due to thermal properties. I would never rest an OTA vertically on grass. Not very stable. Even inside my house, most areas are covered with plush carpet, not a very good surface for resting an OTA on-end.YMMVMike
Quote:When I decided to replace my 60mm refractor with a larger dob, I turned to the internet to compare scopes. That was how I discovered the Zhumell line. And further searching on Google turned up this thread called "New Zhumell owners upgrade mega list thread." That was my introduction to Cloudy Nights.Once I got a Z10, I returned to that thread over and over for help and new ideas for improvements to make. Since that thread is now in the archives, and the Zhumell line has gone through some changes since then (different alt and az bearings), I thought it would be a good idea to collect suggestions and links people have that will help new Z owners get the most out of their scopes.So, here are the mods I'll start us off with: Improvements for secondary mirror adjustment Change the screws! Why? Using a screwdriver is a hassle, and has the potential of being dropped down the tube. Many people use Bob's Knobs, which have large plastic heads on them. I used allen-wrench screws, which have a barrel on the end that can be tightened with the fingers. These can be found cheap at the local hardware store. Insert a washer (or two!). Jason D brought this great idea up in this post in the "squirrely secondary mirror adjustments" thread (the thread is a great read by itself). The basic idea is to cut out a washer out of a plastic milk jug to make rotating your secondary easier and allow adjustment of just one screw without having to also tweak the other two. I believe Jason now advocates stacking two of these washers together for greater improvement. Improve your laser Getting a laser with your scope--how cool is that! But, here's how to make it better... Collimate your laser. Someone please locate a good thread for this with pictures! The adjustments aren't too hard, once you understand what you're trying to do. Use a jig, or two sets of nails in "V" formation in a block, or anything else that lets you rotate the laser freely while pointing at a paper taped to the wall. Use the three tiny allen screws at the back of the laser to adjust the beam until it rotates without inscribing a circle. Add an aperture stop to your laser. Described in good detail in this thread. You can get your laser down to a dot instead of a "bar" (making it easier to collimate, and collimate with). You'll get diffraction rings that will cast a shadow of your primary donut back onto the target face of the laser for more accurate collimation (using a barlow is even better). Optical improvements Flocking! There are lots of threads and articles on CN on how to do it. I went with a black velvet from Joanne Fabrics since it was highly rated in this test. You can choose to flock a little or a lot, but I went with the whole tube--turns it into a nice black hole for light to get sucked into! Blacken all the mirror edges and shiny parts. Use a sharpie to darken all reflective edges and surfaces. Be VERY CAREFUL around the mirrors! Check the primary mirror clips. They might be too tight. Back them off until there's a slight gap (enough to slide a business card in) to avoid "pinching" the optics. Check your center spot. It might be accurate, then again, it might not. Mine was off a couple millimeters. Catseye tools has a template you can use to put a new spot in place, or you can make your own template. Change your primary springs? Many people do. You can find stiffer ones at a local hardware store. I replaced mine, but then went back to the originals so I could get the mirror closer to the bottom of the tube. Add a dew/light shield. I made mine out of a long strip of felt 3.5' long by 9" wide. I glued three 9x11" pieces of craft foam to one side, leaving about 1/4" between the pieces. I added velcro tabs to the ends, and now I have a cover I can wrap around the end of the tube. The foam gives it rigidity, it rests against the secondary holder screws, and it can be folded up for storage. Dew/lightshields for your finderscope. For this, I cut a piece of craft foam in half, and added velcro to make a simple wrap for the end of my finderscope. Not pretty, but functional. I also made a small "sleeve" of black felt that sits around the eyepiece end of the finder. In dewy conditions, I can raise the sleeve to give some protection to the eyepiece. Easier than putting the cap on and off. Other additions Add a Rigel Quikfinder or Telrad. Telrad seems to have the market share around here, but I went with a Rigel, because it fits perfectly between the focuser and the finderscope! Either one of these tools will be a benefit to your star-hopping. Rotate your focuser. Why? In its stock position, the focus knobs are never horizontal unless you're looking at the horizon. Got this idea from Don Pensack: There are two tiny grub screws on the side of the focuser base--one toward the mirror, one toward the tube opening. Loosen them, and rotate the focuser 45° so that the focus knobs are level when the scope points at 45°. This mod's more of a personal preference, but I think it makes the scope more comfortable to use. Improve your airflow. Adding a baffle to the back of the tube will direct more air up the pipe. Check out this sample posted by Hudson Yak. Keep all things in balance... The adjustable hubs are a great "coarse adjustment" for balance, but a counterweight also helps. Numerous threads on this topic, but I recommend a heavy magnet like this bad boy. I wrapped mine in felt to protect the tube, added a little duct tape for friction, and put it on the belly just below the hubs, on the side opposite the focuser. When changing to different weight EPs, I just push the weight up or down the tube a bit. This saves the rubber in your alt brakes for light duty work only, and makes the motion smoother without the "bounce back" if the brakes are too tight. Get a shower cap--to seal the bottom of the tube against spiders, etc., when stored. Very cheap, can be found anywhere. Align your finderscope crosshairs. Somehow, for me it's just easier if the up-down and side-to-side motion of the scope corresponds to the crosshairs in the finderscope. You can change the orientation of the hairs by rotating the finder in the holder, or if you're adventurous, you can unscrew the EP and CAREFULLY rotate the ring the crosshairs are in.So, what mods have you made? Feel free to add to this list, or include some links to help illustrate mods already mentioned. I hope this will be a help to others like the original thread helped me!
Quote:Thank you for the lead/link to cool mods for our "Z" telescopes! Here in the gap between the Midwest and the Northeast it is way-too often cold and cloudy. The Mrs and I did a simple thing, we gave our Dob 'pajamas' (aka-sweat pants) just to lessen the frost build-up. We leave the fan on under her to keep the mirror ambient.
Tim Z10 dob, flocked Orion ST-80 Meade Telestar 60mm (where I started) ...and a bunch of eyepieces and stuff. "When I consider your heavens, the work of your fingers, the moon and the stars, which you have set in place, what is man that you are mindful of him, the son of man that you care for him?" --Psalm 8:3-4
Quote:Quote:Thank you for the lead/link to cool mods for our "Z" telescopes! Here in the gap between the Midwest and the Northeast it is way-too often cold and cloudy. The Mrs and I did a simple thing, we gave our Dob 'pajamas' (aka-sweat pants) just to lessen the frost build-up. We leave the fan on under her to keep the mirror ambient.
I like the idea! Is it really just a pair of sweat pants big enough for the tube or did you use some other material?