Indiana for two more weeks...
14.5" Teeter w/ Richard Fagin mirror, TT #66
EON 120ED on CG-5 ASGT
Lunt LS60THa/B1200 Sky Guy Porta II
Denk Super System with A45 OCS
RASC Lunar Observer | Messier Observer | Observer's Handbook Editor
Astronomy Nova Scotia
12" f/5 Skywatcher dobsonian | 100mm f/9 Skywatcher refractor | 70 mm f/6.2 TeleVue Ranger | 15x70 Celestron binos | 7x50 Pentax binos | 50 mm f/10 Galileoscope
"You're not afraid of the dark, are you?" - Riddick "The best scientists are humble. They seek to understand, not to ensure their legacy, but merely to understand." - Mori
Quote: I haven't thought about the impact of my eyes being adapted to dark. I'll try it out next time. I'm not so sure it'll work during full moon thought.
Quote: And besides, I'm not sure, but is it possible that at x150 magnification, I can be limited by atmospheric conditions, even with clear sky?
Quote:Dave, thank you for your insights. And yes, the mount does not seem very steady to me too. I'm blaming the flimsy aluminum legs, but maybe there's more to it (I bought a used scope). The optics seem fine to me. The blurring is only visible with Barlow lens included with the scope. And I don't expect much from it, seeing as quality Barlows can cost more than I paid for the scope. And besides, I'm not sure, but is it possible that at x150 magnification, I can be limited by atmospheric conditions, even with clear sky?
Quote:A better trick than using a filter is to turn on a lot of outdoor lights... You see, the Moon is not bright at all by daytime standards and we WANT it bright in the eyepiece, because a bright image means one our eyes can resolve very well and we can see tiny details, even if the magnification is not high, which is good, since poor seeing often limits how high magnification we can use. I often observe the Moon with my 12" dobsonian, full aperture and no filter, at magnifications of around 100x with a binoviewer. This is equal to using a binocular with about 9" aperture and 100x magnification. The image is bright and very, very sharp. If the seeing is good, I use 160x. I've yet to have a night where I can go higher with the 12". Despite the rather low magnifications, I see a LOT more detail than with my 5" f/10 refractor at the same magnifications or even higher. I've seen craterlets in Tycho with the 12" at 160x. The trick to avoid being blinded by the Moon when you look into the eyepiece is not be dark adapted at all. If you are not dark adapted, you'll not get blinded. And if you're not dark adapted, your eyes will resolve small features on the Moon better as well. Win-win. And with some good lights on near your telescope, you can also easily see what you're doing and don't have to fumble around looking for eyepieces, etc. Try it, it really works. I can also recommend a binoviewer, but that's a story for another day.Clear skies!Thomas, Denmark
A man is a small thing, and the night is very large and full of wonders.
Quote:The easiest thing to do is to start with higher powers when you first go to the moon, and as your dark adaption fades, brighten the view by going to lower magnifications.This will allow your vision to transition from scotopic to photopic in steps.You still loose your night adapted vision, but you will avoid the "Shock" to your rods.
ROR Observatory Levenhuk 8" carbon fiber RC, Astro Physics CCDT67 Astro-Tech AT8IN w/Moonlite, Baader Mark III MPCC Levenhuk 80mm triplet, Astro Tech 0.8X reducer/flattener Celestron CGEM DX w/HyperTune STF-8300M SX 7 position 36mm CFW Astrodon 5nm H-alpha Little Piney Observatory