AT8RC with Moonlite & Stepper Motor
Skywatcher 120mm ED PRO
Skywatcher HEQ5 with EQMOD, KWIQ Guider
Nikon D5100 Baader mod by Brent Oliver
12" GSO Dob with Argo-Navis, 102mm Skywatcher Short Tube
Quote: I was simply referring to pier parts.
Dark Arts Observatory, Brockport, NY - Skyshed POD XL5 with iOptron iEQ45 Mount
Scopes: C8, C5, SV110 ED, EON-72 ED, ST 80, ATRC6, Megrez 90
Quote:I probably missed something obvious Terry but why can't you just use J bolts - the kind you get at any hardware store.
Quote:3/4" SS J bolts are indeed difficult to find locally. I went slightly smaller and didn't even bother to go galvanized. After they're installed and an observatory is raised they'll never be wet again.
Brad C8SE XLT, TMB 80SS, Orion ST-80 Atlas EQ-G/EQMOD 40D (Self-Mod), WO 0.8 Flat II, SSAG
Quote:I went slightly smaller and didn't even bother to go galvanized. Mine are covered by a removable part of my decking.
I used 3/4" SS hardware for the rat cage area.
Quote:Anyone have any suggestions as to an anti-rotation tab that I could afix to the end without welding, like with nuts. I plan to use a washer 2" in diameter between two nuts but that isn't much to prevent the rod rotating within the concrete.
Quote:Quote:I went slightly smaller and didn't even bother to go galvanized. Mine are covered by a removable part of my decking.I used 3/4" SS hardware for the rat cage area. Hi Mark:Your post confuses me a bit. It seems to describe a metal pier affixed to concrete at or below floor level? But then you have a rat's cage too? Why would you need a rat's cage if the pier can be leveled by shimming the pier base?I plan a concrete pier with a rat's cage for leveling. So, the only metal fasteners are at the top. Nothing at/below floor level.I plan to go to Dartmouth tomorrow to TransWorld , apparently THE place for fasteners in this neck of the woods.I see on their site they have SS "anchor bolts!" I called and asked for SS "L-bolts" and they blew me off.Looks like they may have SS steel L- bolts after all. They just don't call 'em that.
Quote:I went slightly smaller and didn't even bother to go galvanized. Mine are covered by a removable part of my decking.I used 3/4" SS hardware for the rat cage area.
Quote:Why bother with a rat cage at all?
Quote:Many thanks, Mark.I plan on using a 1.5" thick plywood template. Am sweating bullets trying to ensure it is accurate as I will not likely have the actual top plate in hand when the concrete is placed. I won't be trying to "wiggle" the individual rods about in wet concrete. I appreciate they must be accurate and vertical.
Adam AP Mach 1, Rob Miller TRI36L, Celestron 8" Edge HD Hyperion 17mm, Celestron 40mm Plossl, TMB 7mm & 9mm WO 66, Lunt LS60/B1200 PT, CG-5 Clone STF-8300m Pro Package, Honis-Modified Canon XS, Un-modded T1i, SSAG, TSOAG9, SX Lodestar
Lackawanna Astronomical Society
Quote:I waited until I got my top plate before pouring the final pier pour. It was a good thing I did ...
Quote: I'd absolutely hate to enlarge the holes in the top plate but if it comes to that, it will just have to be done!
Quote:I'd like to have the pier ready for the 1100 mount which AP tells me will be delivered in November.
Scopes - 10" Meade LX200, Coronado 90mm, Vixen ED103, Orion 80mm Guide Mount - AP1600GTO Std (Encoders.... someday) Cameras - Atik 320E, Atik 314L+, Atik Titan, Mallincam Xtreme X2, Skyris 274M, Orion StarShooter, Canon 7D Instruments - L200 Spectrometer (300,600,1200 gratings), SA100 Diffraction Filters - LRGB,OIII,SII,Ha; J/C UV,B,V,Ic,Rc Way too many computers....
Quote:You can't help but love AP's quality but.... My 1600 was suppose to be delivered in July. Now they are telling me early Sept. We shall see. I know it will be perfect when I get it but don't hold your breath on getting your 1100 in Nov.
Quote:Quote:Why bother with a rat cage at all? Seems to me there are only two ways to do this, with a third that is "maybe."1/ Metal pier with provision for leveling at the pier base.2/ Concrete pier with provision for leveling via a "rat cage."3/ Maybe, just maybe your concrete surface at the pier top is perfectly level and finished smoothly enough that a top plate can be affixed flush to it and bolted tightly to the concrete surface.As I see it:Number one is just too expensive . . .for me anyway. Cost of a 10" ATS pier delivered in Canada would be in excess of 2300 USD plus 15%HST. Only Canadians are likely to understand that the costs will probably be pushing $3,000 CDN by the time this thing actually showed up here. That is $3,000 in addition to the concrete costs for the base! Number two is very cost effective. The rat cage seems robust enough to me with a trio of 3/4" stainless steel bolts bearing the weight and allowing for precise and easy leveling. Number three is . . . . maybe. I hope to have the threaded portion of the bolts extend into the concrete so that this option will remain open. Whether I use it or not will depend on how smoothly finished and level I can get the top surface.
Quote:I don't consider the three L-anchor bolts a ratcage. The concrete side is anchored for a long length of the bolt and mine only rise 3 1/2" from the concrete.After looking at piers and ratcage designs, I decided the concrete pier with a Dans Pier plate was the easiest and cheapest. 3/4" boltscannot flex that much in 3".
Quote:Quote:I don't consider the three L-anchor bolts a ratcage. The concrete side is anchored for a long length of the bolt and mine only rise 3 1/2" from the concrete.After looking at piers and ratcage designs, I decided the concrete pier with a Dans Pier plate was the easiest and cheapest. 3/4" boltscannot flex that much in 3". I just don't see the point in depending on that assumption .
Quote:Dan, can you detail how you did the top of your brick pier?Pictures?
"Starman" Dan Doyle
Texas Astronomical Society of Dallas
Central Texas Astronomical Society
8" LX200GPS w/ST80 guidescope, Canon 350D+DSI Pro
150mm f/8 Sky Watcher Refractor
10" f/4.5 Homemade Dob RV-6 Criterion Dynascope http://www.darcstarobservatory.webs.com