orbitaljump
professor emeritus
Reged: 01/29/06
Posts: 508
Loc: Charleston, SC
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Minolta binoculars never made the grade IMO. Even the 8x42 Weathermatic roofs that were very popular in the 80s. They traded on their success in the SLR and P&S Camera market, remember the Maxxum 7000....I remember admiring that camera back in the day. Interestingly enough, Canons binocular offerings similarly werent that good either....I guess until the IS line.
To be fair, the Minolta Activa line werent that bad, including the little 8x24 reverse porro....a decent little binocular.
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My God, it's full of stars!
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Simon S
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 01/07/07
Posts: 2206
Loc: Crawley West Sussex UK
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It is strange that one of the best Tasco's I own are the pair of 8x40's that I have listed here.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3151/3110679635_75208f940f.jpg?v=0
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All binocular repairs are undertaken at your own risk. I cannot be held responsible for any damage to any instrument resulting from my suggestions.
My binocular collection
Binoculars by date of addition
Binoculars in Alphabetical order
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Erik D
Post Laureate
Reged: 04/28/03
Posts: 4066
Loc: Central New Jersey, USA
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Quote:
....maybe similar to the loyal following that Bushnell has in the US.
Maybe that should change to "had"?
I associated the Bushnell Optics with good value and wide selection in the 70s and 80s. My very first air rifle scope was a Bushnell 3-8X 20mm (?) zoom purchased in the mid 1970 for my Fienwerkbau 124. That scope cost me more than twice the price typical 4X15 scope. I purchased the Bushnell Custom 7X26 a few years ago for $230. By then I wasn't sure I should be spending that much on a Bushnell.
ERik D
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orbitaljump
professor emeritus
Reged: 01/29/06
Posts: 508
Loc: Charleston, SC
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To be fair, Canons older binocular offerings in the classic body style porros arent bad, they just arent great.
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My God, it's full of stars!
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orbitaljump
professor emeritus
Reged: 01/29/06
Posts: 508
Loc: Charleston, SC
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Simon, I shy away from the 3** series Tascos. That's interesting.
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My God, it's full of stars!
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Simon S
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 01/07/07
Posts: 2206
Loc: Crawley West Sussex UK
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Quote:
Simon, I shy away from the 3** series Tascos. That's interesting.
So do I usually but as they where £0.99 I took a chance. Some of the 7x50's are supposed to be good too?
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All binocular repairs are undertaken at your own risk. I cannot be held responsible for any damage to any instrument resulting from my suggestions.
My binocular collection
Binoculars by date of addition
Binoculars in Alphabetical order
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orbitaljump
professor emeritus
Reged: 01/29/06
Posts: 508
Loc: Charleston, SC
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Ive had a pair of 3** series and they were stinkers optically, though built fairly well.
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My God, it's full of stars!
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Simon S
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 01/07/07
Posts: 2206
Loc: Crawley West Sussex UK
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One of the first of my collection where a pair of 16.50's in the blue font. They where unbelievably bad. I used the objectives as a magnifier and chucked the rest away. It's such a shame Tasco lowered themselves to make such rubbish after starting off on the right foot.
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All binocular repairs are undertaken at your own risk. I cannot be held responsible for any damage to any instrument resulting from my suggestions.
My binocular collection
Binoculars by date of addition
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brentwood
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 11/04/05
Posts: 2042
Loc: BC Canada
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I did have some good Tascos, that I gave to my son. They were Tasco World Class PLUS 10x50. They were one of the very few binoculars that I paid full retail for. This was early in my binocular collecting days when I did not have an 'everyday' glass. I had compared them to a similarly priced Nikon and found the Tasco to be superior. However after I had them a few days I noticed that I could not get the IPD wide enough for my big face. I very carefully ground off half a mil. at the hingepost and they were fine after that. They had a modern, rubber coated body, good resolution, wide field and very good Eye Relief. They were a good all round glass.
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Big telescope.Small telescopes.
Ridiculous binocular collection
Be sincere, even if you don't mean it.
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Simon S
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 01/07/07
Posts: 2206
Loc: Crawley West Sussex UK
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I have just won a pair of Ross Steplux's on the devils site this evening. They look in really good condition, 7x50 and will be my first pair of Porro 2 binoculars. Has anyone had any experience of this model? Seems to me the global recession is hitting the secondhand binocular market, although I can't see them mentioning that on the BBC or CNN news lol!
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All binocular repairs are undertaken at your own risk. I cannot be held responsible for any damage to any instrument resulting from my suggestions.
My binocular collection
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Simon S
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 01/07/07
Posts: 2206
Loc: Crawley West Sussex UK
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Well the Steplus's arrived today and they are in good cosmetic condition. The surprise was they are coated even though this is not mentioned on the prism plates. The only slight fault is some separation of the prisms and what looks like small black spots trapped between two glass layers. Optically after a clean they are sharp and bright, although at close focus the defects in the prisms can be seen. They are very comfortable to hold and despite there size only weigh 950 grams including strap!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/binoculars/3239579356/
Edited by Simon S (01/30/09 03:50 PM)
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potts34
professor emeritus
Reged: 12/09/08
Posts: 592
Loc: Derbyshire , England
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I need help, firstly the binocular collection is rapidly growing it is possibly getting out of control, more importantly can anyone enlighten me as to how to gain acces to the prisms on a pair of 1943? Kershaw 6x30'S.
they are marked BINO PRISM No 2 MK3 , they have two purging ports on each cover plates next to the objective housings. I bought them recently and they are in vgc overall just needed a good clean internaly, I have managed to clean all the lenses and prisms in the eyepiece side I just dont know how to access the prisms on the objective end...do the objective housings screw out ,do you need a special tool?
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The man who never made a mistake never made ANYTHING!
My Flickr page http://www.flickr.com/photos/9658763@N07/?saved=1 and my tinypic page http://tinypic.com/yourhome.php
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Simon S
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 01/07/07
Posts: 2206
Loc: Crawley West Sussex UK
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You need to undo the whole objective carrier. Do one side at a time and mark the position of where the screw was tightened too otherwise collimation errors will result.
See picture of a Kershaw No 2 of 1942.
Edited by Simon S (02/02/09 04:05 PM)
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potts34
professor emeritus
Reged: 12/09/08
Posts: 592
Loc: Derbyshire , England
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Hi Simon, my MK3 is slightly different it has a thin brass cover ring that goes over the housing, it is quite tight so I guess I will first clean the paint away from where it sits upto the prism housing cover plate ,they have been heavily repainted at some time so I intend to completely restore them with the stampings repainted in white and the purge screws in red, as I say they are mechanically and optically vgc other than needing a clean. At least now I know there is nothing special needed.
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The man who never made a mistake never made ANYTHING!
My Flickr page http://www.flickr.com/photos/9658763@N07/?saved=1 and my tinypic page http://tinypic.com/yourhome.php
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Simon S
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 01/07/07
Posts: 2206
Loc: Crawley West Sussex UK
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Yes the Mk3 covers are sealed with a black sealant and leaving them somewhere warm will aid in there removal.
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All binocular repairs are undertaken at your own risk. I cannot be held responsible for any damage to any instrument resulting from my suggestions.
My binocular collection
Binoculars by date of addition
Binoculars in Alphabetical order
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potts34
professor emeritus
Reged: 12/09/08
Posts: 592
Loc: Derbyshire , England
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the housing refuse to budge, I have tried warming them, used damp hands, a leather strap but they just slip through the hands etc due to the very fine threads on them, any more ideas I really dont want to file flats on the housings and use a spanner to remove them ...not that you'd see it after perhaps they should have had flats on when built to ease maintainance?
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The man who never made a mistake never made ANYTHING!
My Flickr page http://www.flickr.com/photos/9658763@N07/?saved=1 and my tinypic page http://tinypic.com/yourhome.php
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Simon S
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 01/07/07
Posts: 2206
Loc: Crawley West Sussex UK
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Check there are no locking screws through the prism housing locking the barrel, there shouldn't be. You will find they are very tight and you need to get them almost hot!
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All binocular repairs are undertaken at your own risk. I cannot be held responsible for any damage to any instrument resulting from my suggestions.
My binocular collection
Binoculars by date of addition
Binoculars in Alphabetical order
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brentwood
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 11/04/05
Posts: 2042
Loc: BC Canada
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If there aren't any screws, can you try a 'strap wrench'? I'm not sure where you are, as like most new members, you do not give an approximate location. I'm assuming by your use of 'Spanner' you are in the UK.
A strap wrench is a plastic handled tool with a rubber strap attached at one end and free to go around the object to be turned and placed in a slot in the handle. When turned the right way they can create a lot of torque.
They even sell cheap ones in the Dollar store here, maybe you have them in the Pound Store.
I have often used one to release tight barrels and eyepieces.
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Big telescope.Small telescopes.
Ridiculous binocular collection
Be sincere, even if you don't mean it.
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potts34
professor emeritus
Reged: 12/09/08
Posts: 592
Loc: Derbyshire , England
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Yes I am in the Uk in very snowy (at the moment Derbyshire), I thought of a strap wrench but don't have one which is why I tried a leather belt, there are no screws hidden ...they appear to be just very tight and I can usually loosen very tight things (previously worked as a high pressure hydraulic fitter)they are warming as I type so we will see then a strap wrench if needed, I will update asap.
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The man who never made a mistake never made ANYTHING!
My Flickr page http://www.flickr.com/photos/9658763@N07/?saved=1 and my tinypic page http://tinypic.com/yourhome.php
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KennyJ
The British Flash
Reged: 04/27/03
Posts: 20139
Loc: Lancashire UK
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Having worked with screwed chrome , brass and steel pipes and fittings ranging from 1/8th inch to 6 inch diameter as a gas engineer for more than 40 years , I think the correct amount and application of heat will solve the problem .
Sometimes a LOT of heat is required , but be careful not to apply TOO much , as it will have the effect of welding the male and female components together .
Use the correct tool for the job , too , which a leather belt is NOT !
Kenny
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Milton Wilcox R.I.P
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