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Florent
sage
Reged: 11/16/03
Posts: 374
Loc: Pithiviers le Vieil, FRANCE
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Hi all,
In the CCD imaging several parameters are important to have excellent results : High end mount, good optics, very good CCD camera, a nice observation site (even with a bit light pollution) and............. softwares.
My message will be about the softwares.
If you only use one software to take, to combine and to process, you will be limited. Not because your software is bad but because a few parts of that software will not be as good as another software or a few parts will not be included. Sometimes, I've seen ,for an object, one filter in a software was better that the same in another software.
I use several techniques and several softwares to process my CCD pictures. In first, the most important thing for a CCD image is the total time of exposure. If you check my pictures : 03h05min., 14h25min., 10h15min..........
With a lot of exposure time you could process your pictures more easily.
The softwares I use are :
-MaxIm DL CCD 3.xx -CCDSoft v5.xx -SBIG CCDOPS 5.xx -PRISM 5 -SBIG CCDSharp -Ray Gralak Sigma Beta 11 Soft -Russell Croman Sigma combine Soft -Ron Wodaski Deebloomer & Gradients Removal plug-in -PhotoShop
Each time for each image, I use ALL these softwares.
I use MaxIm DL CCD to take all my selfguiding pictures and my dark frames with my ST-10XME/CFW-8A and also with my SBIG AO-7 Adaptive Optics.
I use PRISM 5 to take my flat-field frames. PRISM calculates, automatically, for each image, the correct exposure time and It saves them on your hard disk.
I use the Ray Gralak Sigma Beta 11 soft to combine my Dark frames, my Flat-field frames, my Bias frames. In the field, I take 5 or 6 dark frames at the end of the night with the same exposure time and at the same temperature. I take 12 flat-field images on a white screen with a soft uniform white light. The Ray Gralak Sigma software allows to remove the hot pixels, the cosmic rays that hit the CCD chip for the dark frames. It allows too to have a smooth final flat-field frame and to improve the noise in the final dark frame.
After that, I use MaxIm DL CCD, for my night images, to substract the dark and the flat-field.
When my night images are processed, I use the Russell Croman Sigma plug-in to combine them. The Sigma allows to avoid the artifacts in your final light image. The Sigma is more efficient that the median. The Sigma keeps all the S/N and removes the artifacts. The median does not keep all the S/N but removes the artifacts. Sometimes, the PRISM 5 Sigma combine mode gives a better result, that depends of the object, S/N......etc. For example, the Sigma mode in Prism 5 has given a better result on my NGC-891 galaxy but on my NGC-6992 & 6888 the Russell Croman Sigma plug-in was better.
For my RGB images, I use MaxIm DL CCD or CCDSoft. In this case too, an object can give a better result with MaxIm DL CCD or with CCDSoft 5. Several tests are necessary for that. Of course, to have my R image, my G image, my B image, I use a Sigma software (PRISM 5 , Ray Gralak or Russ croman) to have the final image for each filter.
Before to combine all the parts of my image, I use several filters of several softwares (PRISM 5, CCDOPS, MaxIm DL CCD..) to improve the detail in my luminance picture.
I combine my Luminance image with my RGB image in PhotoShop thanks to the Rob Gendler's method. To me, MaxIm DL CCD and CCDSoft don't give a Great result when you combine the LRGB image.
This method is bit long but It give me an outstanding result.
Regards,
Florent
-------------------- Other Worlds : http://www.poigetdigitalpics.com
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rboe
Reged: 03/16/02
Posts: 63466
Loc: Phx, AZ
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Wow!
This is great stuff! Little tid-bits like this are a great help. Of course, have a few Euro invested there and I imagine decent work can be done with less as one starts out.
Thanks for sharing!
-------------------- Ron
NS11GPS
Pronto
16" dob
127mm F9 Surplus Shed/Crawmach kit scope
Coronado SolarMax 40 on a Celestron 102 Wide Field
Best of ATM
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Suk Lee
Post Laureate
Reged: 10/07/03
Posts: 4534
Loc: Pleasanton, CA
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Florent:
I've never heard of Prism - is there a website?
Thanks for the post!
Suk
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Florent
sage
Reged: 11/16/03
Posts: 374
Loc: Pithiviers le Vieil, FRANCE
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Hi Ron,
Yes and not. Yes for Photoshop, PRISM 5 and MaxIm DL CCD, I've purchased them.
For CCDSoft 5, It is delivered with the SBIG CCD camera packages.
For CCDSharp, It was delivered with my SBIG AO-7 Adaptive Optics package.
For the Ron Wodaski's Debloomer & the gradients removal plug-ins, I've purchased them $50 and $40.
And for the Ray Gralak Sigma Beta 11 software, the Russell Croman Sigma combine plug-in, these softwares are free.
But all those softwares are Great for CCD imaging.
Regards,
Florent
-------------------- Other Worlds : http://www.poigetdigitalpics.com
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Florent
sage
Reged: 11/16/03
Posts: 374
Loc: Pithiviers le Vieil, FRANCE
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Hi Suk,
Yes of course !!! 
PRISM is a french software but you can purchase it in English version.
The link (in English & in French) :
http://www.astroccd.com/prism/
Regards,
Florent
-------------------- Other Worlds : http://www.poigetdigitalpics.com
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Suk Lee
Post Laureate
Reged: 10/07/03
Posts: 4534
Loc: Pleasanton, CA
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Florent, you started an interesting thread.
Here's my routine for DSO rgb imaging:
- capture all images flats darks with CCDSoft in self-guide mode - calibrate images and sum the individual r, g, and b channels in CCDSoft - read the separate r, g, b files into Photoshop using Eddie Trimarchi's Photoshop FITS plug-in - use dust & scratches filter to get rid of hot/cold pixels (I find Photoshop does a better job than CCDSoft which can leave some really weird artifacts) - gradient removal and Richardson-Lucy sharpening in AstroArt - combine to RGB in Registar, save as 16-bit TIFF (I don't have Photoshop CS yet ) - histogram normalization, histogram stretch, color balance in Photoshop, save as 16-bit TIFF - noise reduction in SGBNR, save as 8-bit TIFF - unsharp mask in Photoshop, final tweaks and composition
Different but similar for film processing: - scan in 16-bit mode, with rough curves adjustment in the pre-scan - align and average multiple shots in Registar, save as 16-bit TIFF - split the image into individual r, g, b channels in Registar and save - rename the files (to trick Registar), read back in to Registar, and then recombine to a single rgb file -- this takes care of any slight chromatic aberration your lens may have - read into Photoshop in 16-bit mode and adjust histogram, curves, color balance to as close to final as possible - switch to 8-bit mode duplicate the layer, and use median and blur filters to create a synthetic flat-field - "apply layers - subtract" in Photoshop to remove vignetting with the synthetic flat-field - adjust histogram, curves, color balance again - save as 8-bit TIFF and smooth in SGBNR - read into Photoshop, unsharp mask, final tweaks
Either way, its amazing to see the progression from a nasty raw image to a final one, isn't it?
Suk
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Mike Sandy
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 08/29/03
Posts: 1122
Loc: SF Bay Area, CA
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Okay.....How can you not join in the fun! Here is my imaging Set:
- Telescope and camera control as well as automated mount/guider control using the application suite: ACP3, Pinpoint4, MaxIm, and FocusMax (all running together with ASCOM) to point, focus, guide, and capture all images (LRGB) and darks using a script. - Additional mount control by Ray Gralak's PulseGuider - Capture all flats with MaxIm using "flatbox" type set-up - Calibrate, debloom (Ron's DeBloomer plug-in) the raw images in MaxIm - Hot and cold pixel removal, and combining image stacks (Sigma-Reject) for the individual l, r, g, and b channels in MaxIm using Russell Croman Astro Processing Console (Plug-In) - Align seperate r, g, b files and combine in MaxIm - Import Luminous file using Eddie Trimarchi's Photoshop CS new FITS plug-in and RGB image - Deconvolution in AIP4WIN (if done) - Levels, curves, unsharp mask, and color balance in Photoshop CS, along with final tweaks and composition
Simple.....wait a bit - If that is true, why did it take me so long to figure it out? 
-------------------- Mike Sandy
http://www.DarkSights.com
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Mike Sandy
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 08/29/03
Posts: 1122
Loc: SF Bay Area, CA
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This was a very interesting thread (at least to me). I'm just sending it back top the top to see if anyone else wants to add their list. 
Always good to see what others are using......you might find something new - and you can never have too much software!
-------------------- Mike Sandy
http://www.DarkSights.com
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Charles
Post Laureate
Reged: 06/12/03
Posts: 4111
Loc: Enterprise, AL
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Really interesting procedures!
Here are my procedures!
HONEY; go out side and adjust the focus just a little back.
Okay, just a little Forward! 
Actually, I take my darks, and bias either at the beginning or end of shooting. I have been doing flats indoors. I'm going to attempt a T-shirt Flat before dark this weekend if I get outside.
I debloom all images first for particular color channel first. I then subtract out the Bias, Dark or flats at this time using MaxIm. I then combine the channel and stretch it and ship it over to photshop 8.0 for further processing each channel before a final combine.
I use Ron Wodaski's method for ridding gradients out of a picture and I like his results. I think they work better than many of my flats. I use his process for each channel.
I then finally merge all the channels in Photoshop and finish up with what ever little processing I have left.
Charles
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Mike Sandy
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 08/29/03
Posts: 1122
Loc: SF Bay Area, CA
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Hi Charles!
You crack me up! If I said - "HONEY".....as it relates to astronomy I'd either get a blank stare, or more likely she'd roll over and go back to sleep. Astronomy is a lonely hobby (and some tend to like it that way).
BTW, you only need to use bias frames if you scale the darks. If you are taking the darks at the same exposure time and temps as your images....the dark (and flats - maybe) is all you need. Also, the gradients that Ron's approach would fix are the sky glow - street light - moon induced grandients.....and these are not touched by flats. The flats only adjust for minor variations in the camera and optical path (dust, "hot" spots, etc). At least that is what I think I know!
-------------------- Mike Sandy
http://www.DarkSights.com
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Charles
Post Laureate
Reged: 06/12/03
Posts: 4111
Loc: Enterprise, AL
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Well that's most of my problems is city glow and his method really works great. While we are on the subject though I do have a question for all you CCD imagers.
While I was re-reading Ron's book he got on the subject of light pollution and mentioned he liked the IDAS LPS filter for shooting with light pollution. The question I ask is do you buy the 2" inch filter and install it before the camera and shoot all your RGBs through it or do you just shoot the L channel through it?
Charles
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Suk Lee
Post Laureate
Reged: 10/07/03
Posts: 4534
Loc: Pleasanton, CA
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Charles:
I shoot all channels through it.
It helps (but doesn't fix) cutting down on skyglow gradients across the RGB channels.
That's the thing that amazes me, even with the small FOV of 2400mm onto a relatively small CCD chip, the strong histogram stretches we use brings out light pollution gradients.
Hey Mike, enjoying this weather? 
Suk
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Charles
Post Laureate
Reged: 06/12/03
Posts: 4111
Loc: Enterprise, AL
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So Suk, you do install the filter infront of the Camera?
Thanks Charles
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Suk Lee
Post Laureate
Reged: 10/07/03
Posts: 4534
Loc: Pleasanton, CA
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Urk, sorry. I install it ahead of the color filter wheel -- the VSE Slider 2 I use has a handy 2" filter holder slot just ahead of the 2" port.
So, usually:
OTA -> VSE -> IDAS -> reducer/barlow -> CFW8 -> ST2000.
When doing solar imaging I add a custom narrowband filter (8nm bandpass centered on 520nm - green) inbetween the barlow and CFW8.
The Mewlon comes with a 2" visual back - you buy an adapter from Takahashi America that replaces the visual back with male SCT threads.
Suk
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Charles
Post Laureate
Reged: 06/12/03
Posts: 4111
Loc: Enterprise, AL
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Thanks Suk, do you have any experience with the IDAS LPS filter? I'm going to see what it will cost tonight and order one.
Charles
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Mike Sandy
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 08/29/03
Posts: 1122
Loc: SF Bay Area, CA
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Hi Charles and Suk,
I use the IDAS LPS sold by Hutech. I get the 2" filter that fits the 2" nosepiece of the camera (ahead of the CFW-8). I "non-dark" locations the filter is on all the time. It is worth the money....but as Suk says - it won't solve all the problems.
Suk.....I don't think I can express in public how I feel about the weather. Hoping for some cold (for CA) clear nights soon!
-------------------- Mike Sandy
http://www.DarkSights.com
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Suk Lee
Post Laureate
Reged: 10/07/03
Posts: 4534
Loc: Pleasanton, CA
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Charles and Mike:
I also use the IDAS. I have two, a 2" that fits in the VSE, and a 82mm (OUCH, $$$) I use with my various Nikon lenses (with step rings).
It really does work as advertised, enabling you to double your exposure time. Unfortunately, since it's an interference filter, it's not usable below around 180mm or so.
Suk
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Charles
Post Laureate
Reged: 06/12/03
Posts: 4111
Loc: Enterprise, AL
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Suk or Mike, do you know what size I need to fit the end of the camera tube that fits into your scope. I'm using the Sbig 2" adapter but when I looked into the end last night it has three differernt threaded step sizes.
Charles
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Suk Lee
Post Laureate
Reged: 10/07/03
Posts: 4534
Loc: Pleasanton, CA
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Charles:
The 48mm is the same as a 2" filter, which goes in the nosepiece.
I just tried it out to double check.
Suk
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Charles
Post Laureate
Reged: 06/12/03
Posts: 4111
Loc: Enterprise, AL
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Thanks Suk, I'm going to order one tonight. Did it give you any problems with finding guide stars through it?
Charles
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