NHRob
Post Laureate
Reged: 08/27/04
Posts: 4111
Loc: New Hampshire
|
|
So Dan, How did the fan-assisted Starmaster compare against the Grissom newts?
Rob
-------------------- Rob ... my avatar pic is me ... on a good day!
**********************
Canon 12x36 IS binos
Spooner 6.5" f/8.6 dob w/Dobstuff mount
Past Scopes:
Starstructure 14.5", Starmaster 14.5", 10" f/6 Zambuto homemade dob
AP130EDSF, AP130EDT, Traveller, AP152 f/9, 6" AP Christen triplet,FS-102(x2),FC-100,FS-152,TOA-130,TEC-140(x2),TV-101, TV-102,TV-76,TV-85, WO Z80FD, SV105/LZOS, WOLZOS100/800, TEC-6,TEC200/15,MN56,APM130/1200/LZOS,Mewlon180, Jaegers 6" f/15 achro, Palermiti 6" f/15 achro
|
Jarad
Postmaster
Reged: 04/28/03
Posts: 5732
Loc: Atlanta, GA
|
|
Quote:
Daniel,
I should read all these posts all over again because that is not what i understood from them.....  You even try to tell us not to use a rear fan at all, because you said : 'The fan at the rear, pretty much contends with just about everything in the optical path. Grissom's scopes show this. '
I think this is a language issue. Saying "The fan at the rear, pretty much contends with just about everything in the optical path" means that the rear fan takes care of all the problems. He was recommending them, although with the fan blowing out the bottom rather than up at the back of the mirror.
Jarad
--------------------
|
Chriske
Kijkerbouw Urania
Reged: 08/15/04
Posts: 2317
Loc: Boechout, Belgium
|
|
Thanks Jarad,
I really misunderstood this one. I didn't now the word 'contend' so i looked it up and I found 'strijden, twisten, wedijveren'. (I now that Chinese for you, actually it's Dutch..) Meaning it's conflicting even competing.
Thanks again....
-------------------- Chris
|
Daniel Mounsey
Vendor - Celestron
Reged: 06/12/02
Posts: 4899
|
|
Rob,
"How does the Starmaster compare to Grissom's Newt"
That's a good question. Before I answer that, let me tell you this. Charlton is an optical battle ground. I personally enjoy competing, and there's nothing wrong with that as long as it's fun, and it is. I believe this keeps the guys on the cutting edge of performance with planets. There are some truly amazing instruments at Charlton. No matter what anyone tells you, everyone is out, not only to enjoy the planets, but to out-perform the other. Some of the guys will take a month or two and try and come up with something better. Seeing planets this way is truly amazing to say the least.
As far as my 12.5" Starmaster beating Grissom's, I personally doubt it for a number of reasons. I think I'll be 90% there. First, he's using an F-6, which is better. Just the slightest error in the Starmaster's collimation from movement could send my field of perfect definition at the secondary off. The second thing is the optics. Steve Kennedy's optics, which are housed in Grissom's scope are a cut above the 12.5" Zambuto I have. I'd say the secondary mirrors are quite similar. The third thing is the tube. Tubes are way better than truss designs for numerous reasons.
To tell you the truth, It's Grissom I'd love to beat, but I just don't know. We're planning a run real soon to find out. Last week, a 6" Tak gave better views than the 12.5", but the seeing was a 6 and the 12.5" was stuck at about 200x, which is nothing for that scope. Under good seeing, the 12.5" opens up and will easily beat the 6". As far as 8" apos, there are two at Charlton I plan on comparing it to. The guys are all eager to compare their images with me as well. Not beating Grissom isn't bad at all. If I had 90% of what he has, I'm very happy and the Starmaster is no slouch. It's a true performer and we'll soon see for sure how it compares. I just get a high out of these shoot-outs.
--------------------
|
sixela
Postmaster
Reged: 12/23/04
Posts: 13991
Loc: Boechout, Belgium
|
|
Oude steenweg 126 - right by the railroad tracks (I'm an excellent testbed for vibration suppression pads - I just have to wait for a train!).
--------------------
400mm f/4.46 self made Dobsonian on Tom Osypowski equatorial platform
Skywatcher 130mm f/5 BlackLine (finder, widefield scope and solar continuum scope)
Sumerian 250mm f/4.8 Alkaid (as travelscope without platform and on Tom O. platform above).
|
NHRob
Post Laureate
Reged: 08/27/04
Posts: 4111
Loc: New Hampshire
|
|
Wow! Sounds like that Kennedy mirror is a gem. I have a 12.5 Zambuto I'm building with right now. I'm going back and forth between solid tube for optimized views vs. a lighterweight truss dob for easier setup and convenience. Hmmm ....
Rob
-------------------- Rob ... my avatar pic is me ... on a good day!
**********************
Canon 12x36 IS binos
Spooner 6.5" f/8.6 dob w/Dobstuff mount
Past Scopes:
Starstructure 14.5", Starmaster 14.5", 10" f/6 Zambuto homemade dob
AP130EDSF, AP130EDT, Traveller, AP152 f/9, 6" AP Christen triplet,FS-102(x2),FC-100,FS-152,TOA-130,TEC-140(x2),TV-101, TV-102,TV-76,TV-85, WO Z80FD, SV105/LZOS, WOLZOS100/800, TEC-6,TEC200/15,MN56,APM130/1200/LZOS,Mewlon180, Jaegers 6" f/15 achro, Palermiti 6" f/15 achro
|
NewAstronomer
Post Laureate
Reged: 09/03/04
Posts: 3767
Loc: Northeast, PA U.S.A
|
|
Hey, my last name is Kennedy. We're probably related back in the 'ol country somehow. Daniel, ask him to ship his distant cousin a mirror for free? OK I'll pay for shipping.
--------------------
Edited by NewAstronomer (04/08/05 10:00 AM)
|
sixela
Postmaster
Reged: 12/23/04
Posts: 13991
Loc: Boechout, Belgium
|
|
Quote:
I think this is a language issue. Saying "The fan at the rear, pretty much contends with just about everything in the optical path" means that the rear fan takes care of all the problems.
He may have intended saying that, but that's certainly not unambiguous - you're reading "just about anything" as all the *issues*, and Chriske (and I, at first reading) read it as "everything trying to generate an image".
Quote:
He was recommending them, although with the fan blowing out the bottom rather than up at the back of the mirror.
If this fan controls every issue, then why did I have the distinct impression he was also advocating side fans (sucking the air out)?
--------------------
400mm f/4.46 self made Dobsonian on Tom Osypowski equatorial platform
Skywatcher 130mm f/5 BlackLine (finder, widefield scope and solar continuum scope)
Sumerian 250mm f/4.8 Alkaid (as travelscope without platform and on Tom O. platform above).
|
Jarad
Postmaster
Reged: 04/28/03
Posts: 5732
Loc: Atlanta, GA
|
|
Quote:
He may have intended saying that, but that's certainly not unambiguous - you're reading "just about anything" as all the *issues*, and Chriske (and I, at first reading) read it as "everything trying to generate an image".
The part I was trying to clear up was the "contends with" meaning "takes care of" as opposed to meaning "makes worse".
Quote:
If this fan controls every issue, then why did I have the distinct impression he was also advocating side fans (sucking the air out)?
I dunno - ask him. I was just trying to clear up the grammar issue (my wife is an ESL teacher, so I tend to spot those kinds of issues....). My impression is that he was generally advocating using fans to suck out rather than blow in regardless of where they were placed. Nice use of color to get around the auto-bleeper, BTW.  Jarad
--------------------
|
Daniel Mounsey
Vendor - Celestron
Reged: 06/12/02
Posts: 4899
|
|
Let's all go through the fans one more time since this thread has gotten so long and some may have understandably lost track. I'm sorry I said "contend". What I meant was that the rear fan "deals" with the thermal issues wonderfully. When I said "contend", that implied "struggling", but was not what I meant.
There are two fan placements for two different designs. One is the truss, one is the tube. Each design will need a different fan placement in my opinion.
There are reasons why I prefer the tube over the truss. First, it prevents any body heat from crossing or entering the optical path, with the exception of the front if one is not careful. Second, the tube also acts as a funnel for the fans to flush out any thermals coming off the secondary system as the fan's air flows up the tube. In order to deal will this, Grissom and Pons use a rear fan pushing up the tube. The reasons I'm sold on this is because the field tests proved beyond a doubt, that the placements were correct based on the consistant images that were seen at the eyepiece. It was also proven by turning the fans on and off. If you guys recall, I said the fans must stay on at all times at regulated speeds. The boundary layer also gets sucked off the face of the primary and flushed out the front in this manner.
In the truss, it's harder to deal with. A rear fan can not be fully relied on, because there is no tube to allow the air to flush through and clear out the secondary thermals or optical path in any way. A truss may not have tube currents like a sono tube, but it does have mirror box currents and is susceptable to body currents crossing and entering the optical path. These facts can be proven and demonstrated by conducting an out of focus star test.
If you were to just rely on a rear fan with a truss, the air would NOT flow smoothly up the optical path because there are lips around the top of the box, not to mention no tube to carry the air flow up to the secondary to flush out any currents in the optical path as well. The truss is also not as solid as a tube and is more likely to flex and degrade collimation, especially in fast scopes.
For this reason, a side fan has to be utilized with the truss instead of just a rear fan because it will not flush the boundary layer out of the system without hitting something. In a tube, especially with a thin mirror, I do not believe a side fan is needed and our tests showed this. Also, the truss and its entire secondary system is left bone dry on it's owns. Bryan Greer who is an expert on these issues has proven that secondary thermals can be existant for a period of time. It's not as bad as the primary of course, but everything has an effect on the image.
The Starmaster telescope I have was not without flaw. There were numerous problems with its design in my opinion, which is the reason I made all the changes to it. I've also asked Bryan Greer to help me design a 10" F-6 for serious Jupiter observations with a different approach. I strongly suggest people read his S&T articles and get up to speed. These are Sep 2000, May 2004 and June 2004.
On p.123 of the June issue, there is a picture by Gary Seronik's 6" Newtonian with a side fan and holes at the opposite side. Although I do not agree with this method, that is in no way meant to imply that Bryan Greer did this. I personally look up to Bryan and he is my mentor on the topic. I strongly suggest people call him and just spend one hour of their time learning and listening to him.
--------------------
|
MikeRatcliff
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 06/12/04
Posts: 1706
Loc: Redlands, CA
|
|
Blowing up into the tube makes sense for cooling the mirror faster. You get the high speed jet of colder air hitting the back of the wide part of the mirror. More efficient cooling.
Pulling air down out the bottom of the tube gives you the higher speed air at the sides of the mirror, less heat transfer.
Mike Ratcliff (mechanical engineer)
-------------------- 14" f/4.5 dob. 6" f/8 dob.
|
NHRob
Post Laureate
Reged: 08/27/04
Posts: 4111
Loc: New Hampshire
|
|
I've also heard of thermal issues with spider vanes. There can exist a static boundary layer around the surface of the vanes. This layer disturbs/refracts the incoming wavefront, essentially making the vanes act as if they were thicker. If true, then I can see how pushing air up the tube would also help cure this problem as well.
Rob
-------------------- Rob ... my avatar pic is me ... on a good day!
**********************
Canon 12x36 IS binos
Spooner 6.5" f/8.6 dob w/Dobstuff mount
Past Scopes:
Starstructure 14.5", Starmaster 14.5", 10" f/6 Zambuto homemade dob
AP130EDSF, AP130EDT, Traveller, AP152 f/9, 6" AP Christen triplet,FS-102(x2),FC-100,FS-152,TOA-130,TEC-140(x2),TV-101, TV-102,TV-76,TV-85, WO Z80FD, SV105/LZOS, WOLZOS100/800, TEC-6,TEC200/15,MN56,APM130/1200/LZOS,Mewlon180, Jaegers 6" f/15 achro, Palermiti 6" f/15 achro
|
Daniel Mounsey
Vendor - Celestron
Reged: 06/12/02
Posts: 4899
|
|
My friend John Curry may be setting up his 8" TEC apo tonight if we decide seeing will hold. I will probably be setting my 10" F-5 Teleport up next to it for a side by side on Jupiter. Since my other posts about a week or two ago, I've made numerous observations which I've not posted yet. Perhaps after tonight I'll post them.
One of the things I love about the Teleport, is that the mirror is quite thin. Only 1" or 1/10 thickness ratio. This allows the mirror to cool extremely quick, thus eliminating the boundary layer all together pretty fast, depending on temperature drop. Just for fun, I have reversed the rear fan, since air will not be pushed up through the baffled tube anyway. Baffles prevent proper air flow. Instead, I will cool the primary down for over an hour with a seperate 10" Honeywell fan at low speed. After that, the reversed fan will stay on. I'm not much into reversed fans as you may know from previous posts, but in this case it's a slightly different situation. Personally, the fan sucking out, just above the primary has proven to be the most efficient so far in my opinion. Thankfully, since I've been using the new barlowed laser from Howie, the collimation in these fast scopes has never been more precise. I like it more then my Tectron collimating tools by a mile. This photo illistrates the baffled tube. You'll notice that I have not yet installed one of Grissom's spiders just yet in this one. This is because of the unusual octagon shape of the upper cage. We will most likely install a special ring later.
--------------------
|
Daniel Mounsey
Vendor - Celestron
Reged: 06/12/02
Posts: 4899
|
|
Small rear fan is right in the middle of the primary. A mirror this thin doesn't need that much.
--------------------
|
Daniel Mounsey
Vendor - Celestron
Reged: 06/12/02
Posts: 4899
|
|
I should also mention that Obsidian Optics is producing 10" mirrors down to 0.8" thick. Ed Grissom purchased an old 12.5" mirror that was not as good as he wanted on the used market (Not from Obsidian Optics), so he sent it to a surprisingly well known company to be refigured for $500 and it actually came back worse. I will not mention the name in order to save them the grief, but what I will tell you is that Grissom decided to send it to Obsidian Optics after and claims that the mirror is fantastic. The point is, is that they are selling these thin mirrors and they do great work according to Grissom. That's a huge plus, BUT proper flotation will be very important at this point. I am planning to design a 10" F-6 with all the trimmings, using a thin mirror with special flotation.
--------------------
|
tishovlin
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 11/11/03
Posts: 1882
Loc: Springfield, Pa
|
|
Daniel,
Have you known anyone to use the planetary mirrors from Pegasus? John Hall makes 8" and 10" f6 mirrors. I had considered a 10" newt on an equatorial mount.
-------------------- Tim S
C6-RGT
13.1" Truss Dob
Osypowski dual-axis Eq. Platform
15x70 Obies
NP-101
Gibraltar tripod/mount
Losmandy G-11 w/Gemini
I'm headin for Galt's Gulch
|
Daniel Mounsey
Vendor - Celestron
Reged: 06/12/02
Posts: 4899
|
|
I've never bothered with Pegasus mirrors. How was your 10" F-6? How did it star test? What kind of tube did you have and did you have fans?
--------------------
|
NHRob
Post Laureate
Reged: 08/27/04
Posts: 4111
Loc: New Hampshire
|
|
Any updates yet on the Grissom spiders?
Rob
-------------------- Rob ... my avatar pic is me ... on a good day!
**********************
Canon 12x36 IS binos
Spooner 6.5" f/8.6 dob w/Dobstuff mount
Past Scopes:
Starstructure 14.5", Starmaster 14.5", 10" f/6 Zambuto homemade dob
AP130EDSF, AP130EDT, Traveller, AP152 f/9, 6" AP Christen triplet,FS-102(x2),FC-100,FS-152,TOA-130,TEC-140(x2),TV-101, TV-102,TV-76,TV-85, WO Z80FD, SV105/LZOS, WOLZOS100/800, TEC-6,TEC200/15,MN56,APM130/1200/LZOS,Mewlon180, Jaegers 6" f/15 achro, Palermiti 6" f/15 achro
|
Daniel Mounsey
Vendor - Celestron
Reged: 06/12/02
Posts: 4899
|
|
I think he's all set. I'll contact him and see what's up.
--------------------
|
_guy_
member
Reged: 04/09/05
Posts: 13
Loc: Antwerp, Belgium
|
|
Quote:
Sixela,
There is a more 'elegant' way to lower the speed of the fans. A 2 W potmeter is not the best way to do this. I'll ask my 'elctronics-goeroe-friend' and keep you informed. Maybe he'll join the forum. Boshoek the longest (donkerste) street in Boechout.
Using a series resistor to lower the fan speed is not a great idea indeed. A better approach is to use an adjustable low voltage source with lower dynamic resistance. That way you will be able to reduce the fan speed more than with just a series resistor. A simple LM317 circuit will do fine and I doubt it will be more expensive than a 2W wire wound power potentiometer. This circuit has also a provision to start up the fan when set at lowest speed. You will notice you can speed down a fan by lowering the voltage supplied to just above the point where it will simply stop spinning. But once stopped the same voltage will not start the fan again… it needs a higher voltage to start again. The components around the transistor take care of that. After connecting to the 12V source, the fan will get full power and than drop to the speed set by the potentiometer. If you don't find this feature useful, just forget the components around the transistor and connect the potentiometer to ground. It's a good idea to fine tune the lowest voltage you get out of the circuit so that your fan will keep spinning when the potmeter is set to the lowest speed. This voltage will be different for every fan and can be fine tuned by adjusting the 220 ohms resistor.
I tested the circuit with some of the fans I had laying around and it works very well. Even at 3 volts it just keeps spinning very smooth and gives a gentle airflow with no vibrations at all. However I did notice quite some difference between fans. Some of them (mostly the high power ones) still generate some vibration at the lowest speed. So choosing the right fan will be important! But you can easily check this by turning the fan blades by hand… they must turn very smooth without any 'clicking'. I think bush bearings are better than ball bearings, and the very high airflow types are not very well suited for this application.
|
|