Anonymous
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Although these scope can deliver, we still prefer F-6 ratios, simply because they are more forgiving. If for any reason there is any flex or shift in a truss design that fast, the field of perfect definition at the secondary is far more at risk of being shifted
Exactly. So hence the question which I would like answering, purely out of selfish interest (as well as it could be interesting to others too) - Given a truss tube telescope design from one manufacturer, but used in rwo sizes e.g. 20" f/6 and 25" f/5, we can say that (given the optics are in both cases to the same standard)- Optically, the f/5 will show more coma. Mechanically, the advantage of a truss design for a 20" f/6, 5" shorter in length, with a smaller (lighter) seconday cage than the same for a 25" f/5, will as you say, be more forgiving if any flexure occurs. This is perhaps more valuable in the case of planetary images as we want the telescope to remain in perfect collimation. These are the sort of questions which need answering, because we have already established an answer to the medium aperture refractor versus very large reflector debate. Lets now find out about the subtleties of improving large Newtonian designs for planetary performance, which has already begun with the not so subtle issues of curves, oversized tubes, fans etc. These and other questions like it are important for those which wish to make an informed choice.
Chris
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Jarad
Postmaster
Reged: 04/28/03
Posts: 5732
Loc: Atlanta, GA
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When you get to larger apertures, though, I think other factors are more important, like eyepiece height. A 20" f6 is a BIG SCOPE. You are talking about an eyepiece 10 feet or more above the ground. You can reduce that eyepiece height by over 3 feet by making it a 20" f4, and the shorter truss will be more stable (in other words, the short f-ratio may make you need tighter tolerances, but the shorter truss length will make it easier to keep them). The addition of going from a 10 foot eyepiece height to under 7 feet means you can use a simple 3-step ladder instead of a much larger one. Also, transporting the truss poles will be much easier, since they will be 40" or so shorter.
At a 10" scope, an f6 isn't too long or bulky to be a big problem, but at 20" or higher the f-ratio has a bigger effect on the portability and useability than on the performance, IMHO. I would take a 20" f4 with paracorr over a 20" f6 every time, and would pretty much stick to f4 for anything larger as well. Assuming you put proper baffles, spider, fans, etc. on both scopes, and both have high quality optics, I doubt you would be able to see much difference in performance anyway.
Jarad
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Vic Menard
Post Laureate
Reged: 07/21/04
Posts: 4174
Loc: Bradenton, FL
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That's why I asked... The fifth edition is a few months off and I've covered what I believe are most of the issues, but it's fun to read the discussion as it reveals the "next" evolutionary step to the quest for the perfect image.
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Anonymous
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Quote:
but it's fun to read the discussion as it reveals the "next" evolutionary step to the quest for the perfect image.
This was part of the subject of my original post. All this stuff about maximising the performance of a Newtonian is where it should all be happening, but, I was initially puzzled as this was practised back in the 1980s, but seems to have been forgotten, and now ressurected . I seem to remember that as advances in the use of CaF2 and low dispersion glasses arrived in the market, that the whole huge planetary Newtonian thing took a back seat back then, to make way for these new neat looking marvels that would revolutionize astronomy. The power of marketing/advertising over common sense again.
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Starman1
Vendor (EyepiecesEtc.com)
Reged: 06/24/03
Posts: 17639
Loc: Los Angeles
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As a slight segue in the discussion (which I find educational), I must point out that implicit in the discussion is the assumption that improved resolution of planets is the goal of making the tweaked scope, not improved viewing of deep-sky objects.
That's OK, and it is a valuable goal to have.
But the choices you might make for optimizing the performance of your scope for Deep-Sky work might be different:
Baffling might be more important than smooth interior tube currents. Enhanced mirror coatings might be of more value than the more accurate simple coatings. A straight spider (more injurious to planet and bright star images, but LESS injurious to extended nebula resolution) might be preferred to a curved spider that pushes diffraction into the surrounding field. More lenses to control color and coma might be preferred to fewer lenses because a significant part of a deep-sky object may lie outside the central 25% of the field of view.
Please don't mis-read my comments. They are not intended to criticize any previous posts in this thread. I just wanted to point out that there might be another point of view that is missing from the discussion.
I, for one, don't care how my scope performs on the Moon or the planets, BECAUSE I NEVER LOOK AT THEM. My interest is in small 14th magnitude galaxies and planetary nebula, etc. My interest is in improving the performance of my scope on these objects. Other than the obvious (larger aperture), what are the changes you'd make to a scope to improve the performance on DSO's? They may be the same as for planetary definition. They may not.
That is a topic for investigation. I'm glad there are some experimenters out there. We are all richer when the knowledge base increases.
-------------------- Don Pensack
www.EyepiecesEtc.com
12.5" Teeter/Zambuto, 5" Maksutov
Sustaining Lifetime IDA member
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Anonymous
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Can I get a copy in the UK?
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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You may well be right about stability of an f/4 over an f/6 truss, although I find coma objectionable and would prefer not to use a Paracorr if possible. I have always had a 'thing' about long f/ Newtonians. I don't mind climbing a few extra steps to the eyepiece, if others object, it means I won't have to come down so often at a Star Party. OK the oxygen is a bit thinner up there, but there is also the sense of achievement when reaching the top without having to employ a Sherpa.
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celestial_search
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 11/18/04
Posts: 2569
Loc: Iowa, USA
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Don:
I agree with your point. That's why I'm doing some research about: 1) overall improvements to scopes that work in general, 2) improvements primarily for planetary viewing, 3) improvements for DSOs (and conflicts, if any, with other mods for planets), 4) prioritizing the improvements, 5) cost of improvements (or getting the modification at the start), 6) buying a more expensive scope that has the desired features vs. modifying a scope oneself, and 7) separating the psychological aspect of seeing from the technical aspect (including ego-type-of-scope-owned and expectations among other things).
-------------------- Frank
C-11 XLT
8" f/6 Newt on GEM
Tak FS-102II
SV 80L Triplet APO
EQ-6 Mount on pier in backyard observatory (EQMOD)
CG-5 AS (GOTO)
SBIG ST-5C CCD and Canon Rebel XSI
SSAG
Oberwerk 15X70s and Pentax 10X21s
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
But the choices you might make for optimizing the performance of your scope for Deep-Sky work might be different:
Baffling might be more important than smooth interior tube currents. Enhanced mirror coatings might be of more value than the more accurate simple coatings. A straight spider (more injurious to planet and bright star images, but LESS injurious to extended nebula resolution) might be preferred to a curved spider that pushes diffraction into the surrounding field. More lenses to control color and coma might be preferred to fewer lenses because a significant part of a deep-sky object may lie outside the central 25% of the field of view.
Yes. A good point. This is where DM and his tests come in handy. How much of a disadvantage (if any) is a 60 degree curved spider for DSOs over the thin four vane spider? Which is better, enhanced coatings on the primary or secondary, or do you need both. Some opticians claim the secondary is much more important. STF in Moscow have done some work in this area with Sputter coatings on their Mak secondaries,(aluminium deposited on the surface using another method than evaporation). Only works over small areas though because of blotchiness over larger areas, so currently only useful for secondaries. Baffles for DSOs but not for planets. Yes maybe, but what do we call a baffle? A series of rings at regular intervals down the tube like a TMB refractor or a Russian Mak-Newt, or careful selection and placement of baffle material, such as opposite the focusser on the inside of the tube. I heard recently of a paint which dries in needles and hence makes a very matt baffle. Coma correcting optics or long f/ primaries. All juicy stuff.
Chris
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Jarad
Postmaster
Reged: 04/28/03
Posts: 5732
Loc: Atlanta, GA
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Quote:
OK the oxygen is a bit thinner up there, but there is also the sense of achievement when reaching the top without having to employ a Sherpa.

Yeah, but I'm short (5'5"), so standing near the top of a tall ladder and trying to nudge the scope makes me nervous - I always worry I am going to nudge a bit too far and lose my balance. That, and car space is at a premium for me.
If you have a GOTO system to avoid the nudging, and either a large vehicle or better yet a permanent observing site, then going for a longer f-ratio might make more sense. For me, it would make the scope get used a lot less.
Jarad
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Vic Menard
Post Laureate
Reged: 07/21/04
Posts: 4174
Loc: Bradenton, FL
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Quote:
Can I get a copy in the UK?
The fifth edition, when completed, will be available from Sky Publishing.
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Vic Menard
Post Laureate
Reged: 07/21/04
Posts: 4174
Loc: Bradenton, FL
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Quote:
Don: I agree with your point. That's why I'm doing some research about: 1) overall improvements to scopes that work in general, 2) improvements primarily for planetary viewing, 3) improvements for DSOs (and conflicts, if any, with other mods for planets), 4) prioritizing the improvements, 5) cost of improvements (or getting the modification at the start), 6) buying a more expensive scope that has the desired features vs. modifying a scope oneself, and 7) separating the psychological aspect of seeing from the technical aspect (including ego-type-of-scope-owned and expectations among other things).
I've tried to differentiate the criteria in the accompanying text when the upgrade didn't deliver a general improvement to the design. The not so easy stuff can be one person's ace to play and another's albatross to bear.
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sixela
Postmaster
Reged: 12/23/04
Posts: 13991
Loc: Boechout, Belgium
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Quote:
A straight spider (more injurious to planet and bright star images, but LESS injurious to extended nebula resolution)
That's a fallacy. As I tried to say:
-a good curved spider is only 5% longer than a straight one. Those three-60°-segment spiders are still a lot shorter than a straight four vane spider. The only thing really shorter is a two vane spider, but making that as thin as Ed's spider vanes is going to prove quite a challenge, and see below.
-Thinness is much more important than shortness. To put things into perspective, to reduce the total amount of diffracted light of a three-60°-segment spider to that of a straight three vane spider, you need only make the curved spider 2.4% thinner.
-Once the spider is thin enough, evenly spread light is never a problem, as its contribution is negligible compared to that of the central obstruction.
The contrast-destroying properties of straight spiders may be less easy to notice, but they are just the same on deep sky objects: straight vanes still destroy contrast features anisotropically, whereas curved spiders spread the diffracted light so evenly it's never a problem.
It's just less of an absolute problem, but the relative merits of a curved vs. straight spider are exactly the same - as far as the maths are concerned, Jupiter or a galaxy are both extended objects, and the way you compute the image is just the same, by integrating the point source responses over the object.
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400mm f/4.46 self made Dobsonian on Tom Osypowski equatorial platform
Skywatcher 130mm f/5 BlackLine (finder, widefield scope and solar continuum scope)
Sumerian 250mm f/4.8 Alkaid (as travelscope without platform and on Tom O. platform above).
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werewolf6977
Lord High Smasher
Reged: 12/15/03
Posts: 9034
Loc: Hanover, Ohio
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The Abomination is a Meade 60mm Telestar-AZ w/ Baader solar film for a cheap white light solar scope. Drives the purists in the Solar forum nuts! they won't hardly read my posts...
-------------------- Pete
6" Apogee/LXD55
Starhopper 6" Dob
Spaceprobe 130EQ
Black C8 OTA
WO Zenith Star 66 Patriot Edition
Sun Pak Pro 7500 Platinum Edition
8X42 Bushnell H2O Porro
7X35 Tasco
10X50 Nikon Actions (Type 7)
15X70 Skymasters
Dell Inspiron Dual Core 531s
"For those who fought for it, Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know"
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Lets see if I can come up with something even more bizarre for them. Lets find out whether solar observers have a sense of humour.
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werewolf6977
Lord High Smasher
Reged: 12/15/03
Posts: 9034
Loc: Hanover, Ohio
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Get with DesertStars too, he's got one named "Old Scope". He's made many contributions throughout the years with his.
-------------------- Pete
6" Apogee/LXD55
Starhopper 6" Dob
Spaceprobe 130EQ
Black C8 OTA
WO Zenith Star 66 Patriot Edition
Sun Pak Pro 7500 Platinum Edition
8X42 Bushnell H2O Porro
7X35 Tasco
10X50 Nikon Actions (Type 7)
15X70 Skymasters
Dell Inspiron Dual Core 531s
"For those who fought for it, Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know"
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Daniel Mounsey
Vendor - Celestron
Reged: 06/12/02
Posts: 4899
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I believe baffles do make positive differences for deep sky and having conducted numerous observations with 12.5" and 16" Lightspeed Newtonians on deep sky has proven this. I also believe there are going to be some sacrifises though, if you wish to perfect both deep sky and planets. In other words, it's difficult to have your cake and eat it too. For example, Spectrum's IAD coatings. I believe these are the smoothest coatings for planets, end of story. But, on deep sky, they are simply not as bright looking. So you have a choice to make if you think you can notice the difference. Steve Kennedy, who is an expert on large aperture mirrors said he was noticing these differences himself. I told him I was not surprised. Some may argue that you can have your cake and eat it too, but that depends on what your definition of optical excellence is. I suppose it's both fortionate and unfortionate that the observing team has become very picky about how planetary images should look. I have had to be very careful not to let it interfere too much with my ability to simply enjoy the night sky itself.
Baffling is recommended for deep sky, but not needed for planetary observing and it's easily been proven. Conquering the thermals is one of the primary concerns of Grissom and Pons. The cooling used for truss designs vs. tubes has slight differences and I'll share them for those interested. In the tube design itself, the air flow from the fans is meant to keep it flushed. This helps prevent eddies at the primary, secondary and walls of the inner tube from occurring at all times.
Unfortionatly, the truss doesn't cool in this manner because the mirror box will not allow air to properly flow up, to flush out the secondary eddies as well. The truss will bounce the air around. This is the advantage of the tube. The tube itself actually behaves like a ventillation shaft, should eddies occur at the secondary. This is the reason we prefer to have all the air pushed up and forward. I've had long discussions about this and here are the conclusions thus far. I seriously had to make some changes to this 12.5" F-5 Starmaster. For those who may have missed these photos, I have shared them here.
Unfortionatley, some ATM's are not convinced or concerned that thermals are an serious issue. For example, take the 14.5" F-4.3 Starmaster. It's a wonderful scope however, it will be beaten by Grissom's and Pon's set up on planets everytime because they've covered every weakness that the Newtonian design has, including the spider. Some people may think these issues are a bit much, but they're not when comparing them side by side.
On the west coast, laminar air, flows from west to east. This is very important once you've seen the proof. A truss is more susceptible than a tube when body heat is crossing the optical path. This happens on the west coast because most truss's have their focusers placed on the right side and this is actually not right, excuse the pun. The focuser placement for west coast observers using a truss design, should be placed on the left side. When planets rise in the east and pass zenith, your body heat will always be down wind. All you have to do to varify which way the wind is moving, is to simply place your warm hands in front of the optical path and watch which way your body currents are flowing through the eyepiece while a bright star is racked out.
Imagine all your hard work on optics going to waist on planets because you neglected to address the issue of body currents crossing the optical path. The next issue is the fans. Some ATM's are convinced that fans placed at the sides should pull air into the box and exit out the opposite sides.
I conducted various tests to prove which method gave the best results. There were no doubts once the tests were concluded. I scrapped the original 12.5" Starmaster and started from scratch. Take in mind that I have to transport this thing to Wilson and this is the reason I'm using a truss, even though I like the tube better. It was optimized as close to Grissom and Pons's designs as much as possible. I'll soon share what was done.
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Daniel Mounsey
Vendor - Celestron
Reged: 06/12/02
Posts: 4899
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This is an example of what not to do. These fans may look excessive, but they're only 1.5" each and there are absolutely no vibrations at high magnification with them. Wood and truss poles with foam coverings supress potential resinating in this manner. In one experiment, we took this mirror box and set a bonfire in the middle of it. In this photo, the mirror is seen inside, but when these tests were conducted, the mirror was removed of course. Notice how the fans hug the belly of the mirror box, while exit holes reside along the back spine of the box. The key was to flush the boundary layer up and out of the box. When the bonfire was lit and the fans were turned on, the smoke litterally stirred inside the box, varifying that the exit holes along the back spine were of little use and more show than go.
This test was also conducted during visual observations. I asked June Trejano to witness the results during a careful examintaion of the star test. Once the star was racked out enough, the boundary layer could be seen like little waves, hugging the face of the primary surface. I asked June to turn on the fans. The results were not impressive. The boundary layer was being stirred like hot soup once again. On a night of good seeing with Saturn, the fans were continually turned on an off. With the fans turned "on", the images were no more impressive then with them tuned "off". Even with the use of careful variable speeds, we could still not bring the boundary layer to a satifactory level, good enough to suit my visual tastes.
The effect is that the breaking down of the boundary layer is supposed to provide sharper images, however the tests still proved otherwise. As I stated before, the TEC Mak Cas was designed this way as well to keep the tube currents at bay, by stirring them around the inside walls of the tube and to help break down the boundary layer, but the fact still remains that they're still stuck in the optical. It's not like Grissoms tube, where air flow is constantly being recycled and flushed out the optical path. That's the key!
There are no shortcuts as far as I'm concerned. I asked John Pons to examine the effects of this type of fan system in the 10" TEC Mak. He was not pleased with the design. Remember, that no boundary layer at all is way better than dealing with all this stirred stew and head-ache in the image. Even if the stirring technically means the image should be better, the visual tests in the field have to prove this no matter what science says. If you have a theory, then these theories have to be tested and proven. Pehaps others have had better results with these methods, but for me, it's just not good enough. So, I'll let you be the judge. Soon, I'll show you the way that actually works.
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Daniel Mounsey
Vendor - Celestron
Reged: 06/12/02
Posts: 4899
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Here's an image from the belly side. As I said before, this is an example of what "not" to do.
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Daniel Mounsey
Vendor - Celestron
Reged: 06/12/02
Posts: 4899
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I should mention two things. The fact that the back spine of the box has an opened vent means the heavier, cool air can fall in and hit the boundary layer and disturb it if the fans are off, causing even more problems. Then it has to be covered with something so air does not fall in. Bryan Greer discussed this matter as well in S&T magazine. Another issue is that the fans, although not the desired configuration, do speed up the cooling process of the primary, BUT I wanted a completely reliable and working system almost from the get go. That' means the images needed to be tack sharp even with the fans on, and I mean TACK! The only thing though, is you have to wait for the secondary eddies to die down a bit, granted they are a smaller issue. In Grissom's tube, you don't have to wait that long at all, since his fans take care of everything pretty quick.
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