glacy31
sage
Reged: 05/31/05
Posts: 339
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5 min exp , DDP, levels. I need more than 8 next time.
Edited by glacy31 (09/02/05 03:16 AM)
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Benjamin B
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 06/21/04
Posts: 1156
Loc: Sweden
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Great picture, with what equipment did you use?
-------------------- G11/Gemini
APM TMB 80/480 super apo
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speedcomet
member
Reged: 01/05/05
Posts: 68
Loc: Black Forest, Germany
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This star image is very well and your picture has a great deepness. But your Andromeda has too much blue. Try dark und flat field correction to reduce the image errors. This would improve your image.
Levin
-------------------- www.PhotoN-Hunter.de
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glacy31
sage
Reged: 05/31/05
Posts: 339
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Similar to you TMB80/600 G11 Gemini ST4,guided through meade SN8
EOS 300d stock
Edited by glacy31 (09/02/05 04:05 AM)
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thelittleman
Vendor (Peter's Actions)
Reged: 05/21/05
Posts: 4079
Loc: Hampshire, UK
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Well, you know how it is. I thought I would touch it up for you 
-------------------- Clear Skies,
Peter
Photoshop Tutorials and Actions! New actions now added
Preprocessing in Iris Tutorial
http://peter-morris.magix.net/
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Tonk
Postmaster
Reged: 08/19/04
Posts: 6100
Loc: Leeds, UK, 54N
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Ouch to that last one! I can now see 3 clear dust mote artifacts (top and bottom right side and one in the spiral arm directly above the core). Be careful and don't overstretch and clip the data .
Glacy - What camera are you using? Whats the white balance set to? (I suspect auto white balance ). What software did you use to convert from RAW? What software did you use for the DDP step?
It looks like a poor white balance setting got in the mix to give that over blue look. This is a problem I suffered about a year ago but I managed to fix by sorting the white balance parameters actually applied during the RAW conversion step. (NOTE the camera WB setting need not have any effect as its only applied during the RAW to TIFF or JPEG convertion - you can use the camera setting or choose another colour temperature applied during conversion).
You have loads of good data there so it will be possible to sort the colour out starting over from your RAW files
-------------------- Televue 85/TRF-2008 field flattener, Meade LX200 10", Manfrotto 055SSB tripod/410 geared head/AstroTrac TT320X-AG/056 3D head, GM-8/Gemini, 10 Micron 1000 HPS, Canon 40D (unmodded), Canon 450D (modded w/Astronomiks clip-ins - UV/IR, OWB), Coronado SM60/Lunt B1200/WO diagonal, Baader Herschel Wedge
Leeds Sky Clock Ripon Sky Clock
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TeamGS
Post Laureate
Reged: 01/20/04
Posts: 3073
Loc: Elk Grove, CA
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Very nice!
the object is framed well, and shows detail in the dust lanes. Well done. I would also agree that it is too blue, and has a strong color gradient in the lower right. This can be removed with software. The core is also a little overexposed, but I am not sure if it is due to processing, or simply the length of exposures. It it is processing, then you can fix that. If the exposures are to blame, then you should try taking longer exposures for the faint portions, and shorter ones for the core, and overlaying them with software.
Here is a quick and dirty corrected version of your image.
Regards,
Gary
-------------------- Celestron 80ED
Losmandy G11
NexStar 80
Starlight Xpress SXV-H9
SXV guidehead, ToUcam 840
http://www.teamgs.org/astrophotography.htm
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Tonk
Postmaster
Reged: 08/19/04
Posts: 6100
Loc: Leeds, UK, 54N
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The problem is that once an inappropriate WB setting was used in the RAW -> TIFF/JPEG conversion, it can be very difficult to correctly and easily rebalance the colour. You can save yourself a lot of work by sorting this step out.
One problem occurs when you use the Canon File Viewer utility to convert RAWs when the camara was set to auto white balance. The auto detected WB is then usually wrong with typical astropics and way too blue.
The Canon RAW convertion tools in Images Plus are excellent and override the camera auto white balance setting to apply a "daylight" WB with a "natural colour" matrix. This in my experience leads to much better initial data that usually only needs minor colour balance tweeks after processing (usually just to counteract light pollution - though GradientXterminator can do this colour balance correction automattically and very acurately as part of gradient removal)
-------------------- Televue 85/TRF-2008 field flattener, Meade LX200 10", Manfrotto 055SSB tripod/410 geared head/AstroTrac TT320X-AG/056 3D head, GM-8/Gemini, 10 Micron 1000 HPS, Canon 40D (unmodded), Canon 450D (modded w/Astronomiks clip-ins - UV/IR, OWB), Coronado SM60/Lunt B1200/WO diagonal, Baader Herschel Wedge
Leeds Sky Clock Ripon Sky Clock
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AuroraSeeker
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 11/16/04
Posts: 1377
Loc: Philadelphia, PA
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Nice shot! You captured those outreaching star clusters well!
-------------------- http://www.danielmccauley.com/
Daniel McCauley, Astrophotographer
Southern New Jersey
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Thick_asa_Planck
Dark Sky Hunter
Reged: 09/04/04
Posts: 3342
Loc: UK
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Great picture glacy31!
Alex
-------------------- It is often commonplace to leave the notation ambiguous - Anonymous
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glacy31
sage
Reged: 05/31/05
Posts: 339
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Thanks, I will need to work on the color thing.
What was the software process you used to get the blue out.
-------------------- Losmandy G11 Gemini
TMB 80/480
WO FLT 110
EOS350DH
ST 7i
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glacy31
sage
Reged: 05/31/05
Posts: 339
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I use Maxim DL and the MAX EOS driver I dont believe there is any white balance stuff going on but I could be wrong. I will fiddle with it.
-------------------- Losmandy G11 Gemini
TMB 80/480
WO FLT 110
EOS350DH
ST 7i
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glacy31
sage
Reged: 05/31/05
Posts: 339
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I didnt read all but Tonk I use Maxim and the Eos Driver from bear creek, The dust problems are due to older flats and the dust has moved around. I could retake flats an alleviate that, though the blue thing is a problem I have not been concentrating on. In this shot I spent little time in processing and it reflects, I was more concerned and subsequently pleased with the L portion of the image but I am definately in need of some color help. I also have an M33 that is pretty darn blue with a good L channel ( so to speak )
At any rate I am off to play with equipment not my own over the weekend ( names mostly contain AP and Sbig ) Target suggestions welcome!
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JamesBaud
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 08/21/04
Posts: 1137
Loc: Granite Bay, CA
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I like the blue... May not be accurate, but it looks kinda neat 
In addition to the dust tonk pointed out, there's one on the bottom towards the right, and another below and to the left of the upper companion galaxy. There's also a dark spot in the top middle and another dark spot on the right towards the top... are those caused by dust too?
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Tonk
Postmaster
Reged: 08/19/04
Posts: 6100
Loc: Leeds, UK, 54N
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Hi Glacy. I hope the following stuff help you and anyone else with the "blue image syndrome". I've been there!!
You have given me enough clues to say yes you *are* experiencing a WB correction problem in your work flow at the RAW file convertion step.
I think its worth some explanation and evidence as to why you and others get these blue images. I can see that your luminance data is very good and an execellent picture is in there, its that many folk don't pay any attention to the RAW file conversion step and what it actually does to the colour in your image.
The main point I'm trying to say is its much harder to colour correct after an inappropriate Wb has been applied, than to work on getting the right WB correction in the first place.
Just from my own experience and frustration in my first year of astrophotography when I constantly produced blue images. What bothered me was the lack of star colour range. You expect to se a few red stars, far more orange and yellow stars and of course white and blue stars. All I got was white and blue stars and stars with an odd green cast! Last winter I did a bit of research and asked a few questions about "over blue" images of a variety of forums.
The Images Plus forum provided the answer. White Balance correction is applied in the RAW conversion step and you can override it! AutoWB is not a satifactory way to control the colour in your image.
All the Canon RAW to TIFF/JPEG convertions in Canon, Maxim/Bear Creek, Images Plus, Adobe Photoshop etc software use the same library software supplied by Canon to do the actual conversion (I'm a software developer and program the Canon tool kit myself, so have direct experience here). The canon software either works on defaults (as set on your camera) or the hosting software may allow you to choose a overriding WB correction to apply to your image via one of many presets (autoWB, daylight, tungsten etc) or via a user selected colour temperature value.
Images Plus for example allows you to select a batch of RAW file and the overridding WB correction (amongst other parameters). It ignores the setting on your camera. (NOTE teh camera does not apply a WB correction to the RAW file, but merely attaches the WB setting to the file header information as a hint). If you shoot in a JPEG format, all colour balance bets are off as the WB is directly applied and you can't change your mind later.
On the other hand Canon's own utility software converts using the setting selected on your camera, though there is a way to override this behavour.
So my question now is - does Maxims Bear Creek driver allow you to override the camera set WB? If so you should experiment here.
The problem of astrophoto "over blue" images arises via applying autoWB. Canon have optimised autoWB for the common types of pictures that regular photographers make. Those taken at daytime! Astrophotgrahy is not considered in the WB equation Canon apply so autoWB can produce uncontrolled colour corrections. This depends on factors such as light pollution gradients and casts etc present in the original RAW image. A heavy blue cast can and often results.
If you are not convinced take a look at these images I took last winter. The first in the group where processed via using the Canon File Viewer Utility to make the RAW -> 16 TIFF conversion - my camera was set at AutoWB. Other than basic DDP, RGB level correction and curves stretching these images have had no extra colour treatment.
The second group are the same images (same RAW file originals) but this time I used the Images Plus Canon RAW converter and selected a Daylight WB override. Again DDP, levels and curves were applied but also some iterative colour saturation was applied (this doesn't affect colour balance, just colour strength)
Group 1
M33 - using autoWB correction in RAW to TIFF step. Note star colours are confined to white and blue. No obviously red, orange or yellow stars can be seen. There should be some! One of the brighter yellow stars has a strange green cast.
M31 - using autoWB correction in RAW to TIFF step. Similar comment about the star colours
Group 2
M33 with a Daylight preset WB override - note stars colours are better balanced and yellow and orange stars are present
M33 with a Daylight preset WB override - note stars colours are better balanced and the full range of stars are present
-------------------- Televue 85/TRF-2008 field flattener, Meade LX200 10", Manfrotto 055SSB tripod/410 geared head/AstroTrac TT320X-AG/056 3D head, GM-8/Gemini, 10 Micron 1000 HPS, Canon 40D (unmodded), Canon 450D (modded w/Astronomiks clip-ins - UV/IR, OWB), Coronado SM60/Lunt B1200/WO diagonal, Baader Herschel Wedge
Leeds Sky Clock Ripon Sky Clock
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Corn
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 12/27/04
Posts: 2199
Loc: Sweden
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On my screen your M31 still had a small green cast. I balanced the colors a tad more towards the warmer (red). Then again I supose it all depends on what the monitor/graphic card are balanced to. I do agree that it is important to get somewhat correct WB as early as possible. Usually daylight WB is pretty good.
Cheers
-------------------- Canon 300D (mod)
8" f/5 Skywatcher, EQ6 Pro, HEQ5 and Barn door mount.
http://web.telia.com/~u18524382/
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glacy31
sage
Reged: 05/31/05
Posts: 339
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I dont believe the WB is done previous to me completing a convert RGB? I callibrate and apply a flat ( which imposes a WB ) before I convert to color.
-------------------- Losmandy G11 Gemini
TMB 80/480
WO FLT 110
EOS350DH
ST 7i
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Thom_Tapp
sage
Reged: 05/24/05
Posts: 219
Loc: Kingston TN
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What was the focal length you used? Would a 400mm lens capture M-31 at a decent scale? Would it nearly fill the frame? I'd like to give it a try myself!
Thom Tapp
-------------------- Meade ETX-125
Orange Tube C-8
Fuji S2 Pro DSLR
Logitech Quickcam Pro
Meade NexImage Planetary Imager
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Corn
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 12/27/04
Posts: 2199
Loc: Sweden
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I tried to see if it was possible to rebalance Glacys image too, altho his image was considerably off in the color balance. Basically it is very hard to correct it fully (this late in the process) as you see in my atempt.
Cheers
-------------------- Canon 300D (mod)
8" f/5 Skywatcher, EQ6 Pro, HEQ5 and Barn door mount.
http://web.telia.com/~u18524382/
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Tonk
Postmaster
Reged: 08/19/04
Posts: 6100
Loc: Leeds, UK, 54N
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Quote:
I dont believe the WB is done previous to me completing a convert RGB? I callibrate and apply a flat ( which imposes a WB ) before I convert to color.
The whole point I'm making is the white balance is done in the RAW conversion step whether your are aware of it or not. The flat calibration doesn't do the white balance, it should only balance brightness (though it might alter the colour balance if you forgot to desaturate the colour from the flat before calibration)
-------------------- Televue 85/TRF-2008 field flattener, Meade LX200 10", Manfrotto 055SSB tripod/410 geared head/AstroTrac TT320X-AG/056 3D head, GM-8/Gemini, 10 Micron 1000 HPS, Canon 40D (unmodded), Canon 450D (modded w/Astronomiks clip-ins - UV/IR, OWB), Coronado SM60/Lunt B1200/WO diagonal, Baader Herschel Wedge
Leeds Sky Clock Ripon Sky Clock
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