RogeZ
professor emeritus
Reged: 11/21/04
Posts: 575
Loc: Miami, Florida
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You have a great OTA already. Buy the EQ6 with goto and you'll have a great setup.RogeZ
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RogeZ 
6" C6-RGT "Yard Cannon"
12" Deep Space Observer
Working on a BS Mechanical Engineering
www.rogeastronomy.com
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Hoser
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 02/10/05
Posts: 1153
Loc: Boston, MA
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If you want to go with an EQ6, get the white one from Canada. According to Mike Downing, the QA on the white ones is better than the black ones they ship to the States.
http://www.telescopes.ca/telescopes/RENDER/5/2030/3073/12246.html
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www.flemingastrophotography.com
Brilliant diamonds in pea soup
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ribuck
sage
Reged: 11/01/05
Posts: 329
Loc: Newcastle, England
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I think i'm finally going to go for the LX90 LNT as it should be a good alround scope, and if i get into any serious astrophotography i can buy a wedge, focal reducers and guiding at a later date.
I also think this should be an easier scope to learn with initially before i use a wedge to give EQ capability.
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c131frdave
Post Laureate
Reged: 01/17/05
Posts: 4376
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Uh, I noticed no one asked the most important question: What camera??????
If you plan to shoot film, I think the LX90 will do you well. Anything else (except a Canon 5D), forget it. You're talking about a 2000mm fl here!! As you know, it's an f10 scope as well.
My first imaging scope (or anything else scope) was an SCT too. To be honest, the "coolness factor" was as big an issue about choosing it over other suggestions as anything else. I suspect this might be the case in your situation.
If you want to be really smart, figure out what camera you want to use first, then decide on the scope. If you decide to shoot film like clownfish, you're gold with just about anything. But if you start with a SAC 7 or DSI, you better think pretty hard about what you want to do because you'll have a heck of a time trying to image something like M42 with the LX90.
It won't matter anyway because a year from now you'll have two or three cameras, three or four scopes, and at least two mounts. If the imaging bug bites home, that is. Cheers!
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Tak NJP
Various sizes and shapes of formed glass
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ribuck
sage
Reged: 11/01/05
Posts: 329
Loc: Newcastle, England
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Thanks for the comment C13frDave, I probably looking to use a basic CCD imager at first, as I was gien the Celestron Neximage as a present, the move upto the more expensive better quality camera's later.
I just started an Astronomy class the other day and he guy who runs the classes and gives lectures has a PHD in Imaging so i guess he will be a great source of information in helping me choose my next scope.
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ClownFish
Post Laureate
Reged: 04/26/05
Posts: 6254
Loc: Baghdad, Iraq
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"has a PHD in Imaging" Yeh, but can he do it? I've met lot's of people with advanced graduate degrees that have the technical knowledge.. but they have almost zero hands-on experience. I also agree with Dave... the other scopes would do you better in the long run.
Oh yeh, the comment about film... No way would I trade an f/4 scope over an f/10. Yeh, the field of view isn't a problem with the f/10 SC, but the exposure times would kill me!
CF
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Learn all about Polar Alignment and Manual Guiding on my website at www.PetesAstrophotography.com! Or visit my Foreign Service Blog!
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RogeZ
professor emeritus
Reged: 11/21/04
Posts: 575
Loc: Miami, Florida
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CF, your site is becomming a encyclopedia, great site, keep it up. Ribuck, let me put it this way. If I wanted to start photography, I would never buy a LX90. There are just much better options and that at the long run are cheaper. For imaging with the LX90 you will need:
Wedge: Better not a cheap one or you will have vibrations.
Reducers: a F6.3 and a F3.3
Patience: Much difficult to start at those focal lenghts that at a newtonian Fl'
Mount: There is not a more versatile instrument than a GEM. I have had mine for almost 2 years now. I have mounted over 10 different scopes.Dont make mistakes because of the cool factor.RogeZ
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RogeZ
6" C6-RGT "Yard Cannon"
12" Deep Space Observer
Working on a BS Mechanical Engineering
www.rogeastronomy.com
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ribuck
sage
Reged: 11/01/05
Posts: 329
Loc: Newcastle, England
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Clownfish, The guy teaching the astronomy classes has been at it for 15years or so and has done a lot of astroimaging from what i understand. I have emailed him to ask his advice and i'll take on board his comments along with everyone's from this site especially your's and i can see that you have a lot of experience in this field.
The problem I have is that i want a scope with lots of aperture, 8 or 10" such as the LDX 75 SN10, but i get the impression that the mount is not really designed for that size OTA or even the 8". My dilema is that I dont want to buy a scope to find that the mount isn't very stable. I can't really afford to buy the SN8 or 10 and Buy a new good quality mount.
I'm being driven to dispear as there are so many pro's and cons for each possible scope.
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ClownFish
Post Laureate
Reged: 04/26/05
Posts: 6254
Loc: Baghdad, Iraq
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It's just that you already have a good scope... you just need a good mount.
The small fork mount on the LX-90 will hurt you in the long run.
Just my humble opinion.
CF
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Learn all about Polar Alignment and Manual Guiding on my website at www.PetesAstrophotography.com! Or visit my Foreign Service Blog!
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jgraham
Postmaster
Reged: 12/02/04
Posts: 11575
Loc: Dayton, Ohio
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Without knowing the individual degrees and years of experience doesn't communicate much. Over the years I've met way too many well respected experts who teach that imaging can't be done without top-shelf cameras, mounts, telescopes, scads of time, money and divorce. It's fun to shop around, take in advice from others, and feel free to end up doing your own thing.
With respect to your last comment, that's a very common problem and I used to see it all the time when I taught telescope making classes. Unless money is no object (and I mean no object) no one telescope does it all. In part that's because the needs are different depending on what you want to do. For visual work you want big optics to gather a lot of light, the mount isn't so important. For imaging you need to be able to track the object with precision, the mount is everything, aperture isn't as important. Given the choice, I'd suggest going with a small telescope on a big mount. If money is an issue the LXD75 (and similar) mounts with telescopes up to 8" work fine. If you're in the market to spend up in the $2,000 range the LX90 (and similar) telescopes also work fine.
Have fun shopping around!
-John
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-John
The best advice on imaging I've ever been given... don't forget to look! 
Edited by jgraham (01/14/06 09:50 AM)
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ribuck
sage
Reged: 11/01/05
Posts: 329
Loc: Newcastle, England
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Clownfish, Just buying a new EQ mount to sit my existing OTA on was my first idea and i started looking at the HEQ5 only find that I would need a sturdier mount, such as the EQ6 to hold the weight of the 8" tube.
I decided on the EQ6 skyscan, but got mixed views on that mount. Some said it's accracy was fantastic and some said it was poor.
I initially thought this would be a great approach for both visual as imaginging as the scope was faily fast a F5.9.
But like everything else, my problem lies with the fact that i have had so many conflicting views that it's not easy to believe who is right and who is wrong and make an informed decision.
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ribuck
sage
Reged: 11/01/05
Posts: 329
Loc: Newcastle, England
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The other facot is that a new EQ6 Skyscan is about £1000, but then so is a new Meade LDX75 SN8 - Schmidt Newtonian.
So again, am i better selling my complete Orion XT8i and getting some back and putting it towards a SN8, which would reduce costs slightly and would be a faster OTA at F4.
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ClownFish
Post Laureate
Reged: 04/26/05
Posts: 6254
Loc: Baghdad, Iraq
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SN8??? I thought you had decided on the LX90?
Now I'm the one confused.
CF
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Learn all about Polar Alignment and Manual Guiding on my website at www.PetesAstrophotography.com! Or visit my Foreign Service Blog!
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Phrozin R/T TT
sage
Reged: 02/22/05
Posts: 288
Loc: USA-Florida-Bay Area
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I just recently went through all of this.
Long story -> short, I bought a 10" LX200GPS SMT, superwedge, 4 different cameras, an Orion 80mm ED, a "guide" camera, a new laptop, maxium DL, Maxium DL/CCD upgrade, AstroArt, and all the supporting accessories (except focal reducers). A year later I still have yet to capture a single image that I wouldn't be embarrassed posting here.
Now, I know I'm "as thick as a brick", but after watching a person (my father) purchase a 4.5" Newt, and a skyview pro mount and the next month cranked out decent first shots of Barnard 33 & M42 I was floored.
I've spent so much time and money on my setup it's sick, and my father pops roughly $1200.00 USD and he's already getting nice images a month later.
Truth be told I wish I would have started off with a light Newt, and an Atlas mount or better. I would have spent less money, probably would have already had images I was proud of, and I'm sure my marriage wouldn't have suffered as much!!
I look at it this way:
A newt on a good mount is great for beginners & intermediate
A SCT on a wedge& pier is great for intermediate & advanced
Not to say a person can't get great results with a newt, that's just the way I feel. I can only imagine what CF could get with a SCT or RC housed in a dome.
Joe
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Ptarmigan
Lagopus lagopus
Reged: 09/23/04
Posts: 3510
Loc: Arctic
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I own a 8 inch reflector, so I will vouch for it. 
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ribuck
sage
Reged: 11/01/05
Posts: 329
Loc: Newcastle, England
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Clownfish, dont worry about being confused as I think i'm confusing everyone....lol. basically it's either a LN90 LNT or a SN8/SN10 or a new mount for my existing 8" reflector. I'm still trying to compare the merits of each.
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ragebot
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 08/26/05
Posts: 1852
Loc: Tallahassee, FL, USA
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While all three options you list are viable they all have different advantages and disadvantages both for visual work and astrophotography.
There really seem to be too many unknowns to reach a good decision. Dedicated CCD astrophotography would probably require a laptop and stuff like a table and chair and cables for any of the choices; same for a webcam or LPI type imager. Afocal photography using something like a Nikon Coolpix would only require a specialized EP that could do double duty for normal viewing. Prime focus photography using a DSLR would only require a T-mount adapter. Both digicam and DSLR photography would require a computer for postprocessing, or at least downloading.
But more to the point the imaging option you select will work better on some of the OTA/mount options than others. Prime focus DSLR is better matched to the SN OTA, next to your existing OTA, then to the 90. In reality this order is probably true for all imager options, just more so with the DSLR.
Another point is ease of use. I find it quite easy to set up my ETX with a Scopetronix EP and focus on an object. Then I slip the digicam and attachment over the EP and imaging is simply a matter of pressing the shutter button. The zoom on the camera allows easy composition. And if I have a focus problem I can attach the digicam to a TV or DVD player for a larger view to aid in focus.
But when I attach a DSLR to the ETX or several other OTAs the quality of the image is better, even if focusing is not as easy and composition is much more limited. But the exposure lenght is much shorter on my 4.9 Newt than the f10 or so other OTAs.
Do you have any idea what type of imager you will be using? That would be a big factor in my decision on which setup to get.
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Meade ETX 90, Meade AR5, Orion ED80, Atlas GT, 8 in Newt, Coronado DS SM40, Garrett 10.5X70, Sigma SD10, SD14, Canon 1D2, Xti, Nikon CP4500, C-14
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ribuck
sage
Reged: 11/01/05
Posts: 329
Loc: Newcastle, England
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Ragebot, i will initially be using my Neximage CCD for basic planetary work then perhaps later down the line, i might try my DSLR camera (Minolta 7i) to see what results i get with that.
I already own a laptop, so that part of the equation is sorted too.
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ClownFish
Post Laureate
Reged: 04/26/05
Posts: 6254
Loc: Baghdad, Iraq
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All this talk about the best "scope" for astrophotography.. please don't forget what a simple camera land can do. Here's two reasons why it's the MOUNT that does the work, not the scope.
Reason One taken with a 105mm lens and Kodak E200 slide film.
Reason Two taken with Fuji 400F Provia and a 300mm camera lens.
Enough said.
CF
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Learn all about Polar Alignment and Manual Guiding on my website at www.PetesAstrophotography.com! Or visit my Foreign Service Blog!
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ribuck
sage
Reged: 11/01/05
Posts: 329
Loc: Newcastle, England
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Clownfish, I agree with what your saying, but i thought that the scope was very relevant in terms of exposure times.
The way i understand it, is that you can achieve the same results with a F10 as you could with a F4, except the F10 will require much longer exposure times.
Please feel free to correct me on this one.
Anyway people, i think we've done this one to death, and I really apprecate everyone help and insightful comments.
I guess it's down to me to try and decide which route i really want to go down.
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