I'll give this thread a go.

I mostly process black and white film, but I've processed color transparency film. It can readily be done by hand, but timing and temperature of the color chemicals has to be consistent.

A] Fancy equipment isn't necessary (like a big Jobo processor) but it does make it easier. At the minimum all you'd need is a large tray of water to temper the chemistry and a common daylight-type film tank.

Color chemistry needs to be processed around 95 to 100 degrees fahrenheit. A inexpensive aquarium heater and a recirculating pump work handily. Most aquarium heaters won't go above 85 (otherwise you'd kill your fish!) but some can be bypassed by turning the dial-type thermostats to a higher temperature by forcing the dial past the 85 degree mark. You'll need an accurate thermometer to monitor the tempering water bath as well.

B] Most of the larger photographic companies like Adorama and Calumet will ship the Kodak E-6 chemistry kits to you. The Kodak kit makes a large amount of chemistry; about a gallon of each chemical (and there are seven in the Kodak kit). However, not all of it has to be mixed up at once. If you have small graduates with accurate milliliter markings, the concentrated stock chemistry can be mixed up with water into small working-strength batches as needed. Once opened, the concentrated stock chemistry in the Kodak kit has a limited life. Exposure to air (the developers in particular) will cause the chemicals to slowly oxidize and no longer work. It could be months or as little as a week; it depends on how much air is in the bottles.

To maximize the life of the chemistry, minimize the exposure to air. This really only needs to be done for the developers in the kit. Glass bottles filled to the very top and sealed with saran wrap are airtight, as are plastic bottles like what Coke comes in (if the plastic keeps the fizz in, it generally works.) Another option is to displace the air in bottles with something inert like nitrogen -- I've also used "canned air" (like dust-off for cleaning computers) and that works, but I've only used it for black and white chemistry.

C] All E-6 films of any type (Kodak E200, Fuji Provia 100F, etc) are processed exactly the same for the same processing times in the same chemistry. Briefly, it works like this. Bring chemicals up to temperature. Pour in a pre-wash (plain water to warm up the tank and film) empty tank, pour first developer in tank. Process for proper time, empty tank. Wash, pour in reversal bath, process. Pour in color developer (etc), pre-bleach, bleach, fix, wash, rinse, hang to dry. Detailed instructions are included in the kits.

The most critical of the chemicals is the first developer. The duration of time that the film is in the first developer needs to be as exact as possible as this single step is the most important of the whole developing process. A few seconds over or under here can alter the resulting density or color of the image a good bit. The other chemical steps have a bit more leeway as the processing times aren't quite as critical for these steps.

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Another option is the Arista three-step E-6 kit. These are sold by Freestyle Photographic supplies. Generally these aren't as good as the full fledged Kodak kits -- the color can have odd shifts and hues -- but they don't cost as much, they come in smaller sizes, and there's only three chemicals in the kit (compared to the seven in the Kodak kits).

Photo below of how I processed film with one of the Arista one-pint kits. Plastic tray filled with water, aquarium heater and a small pump to circulate the water and keep it evenly heated. Coca-cola bottles (rinsed out well beforehand) with the Arista first developer, color developer and bleach-fix (blix) solutions. A fourth bottle with plain water for the pre-wash. Accurate glass thermometer (lower right) to monitor the temperature. A Jobo daylight film tank (red top) on the left with a "Jobo roller base" in the tray to agitate and spin the tank in the tempered water of the tray.