The chemistry of the paint can be an issue if application instructions are not followed.

You can re-over coat most paints after the initial coat is dry to the touch...within 10min.

If you apply light *dust* coats of gloss enamel..you will not achieve the *gloss* you're looking for. As mentioned earlier..it is nearly at the point of runs that you get the nice shine...if the paint's chemical shine is what you're after. I rotate my tubes to prevent any runs, drips, errors...

If you wait to reapply paint..you should wait a week or two before reapplying...because the solvents used to propel the paint can act as a desolving solvent on the existing application...and result in ripples or *crinckles*.

Clear coat is designed to *fill* micro ripples and *stipples*. I recommend light sanding with a green *Scotts* pad between coats. What this does is not remove paint material but knock down micro bubble edges and small raised areas. It also acts to prepare the surface for a mechanical bond to the new coat.

I use auto clear coats...because of their hardness and shear shine. Of course I apply several light coats and I do not sand between the second to the last coat of the clear coat.

Crinkles appear when the paint is not sufficiantly bonded to the subsequent layer and the new applications transport solvents act to loosen the pre-cured layer.

I have let my 12" 14ft tube stand/rest painted for two weeks(the weather has played a role). When it cleares..I will take it out of the shop..mount it on its paint roller system...lightly sand it with green Scotts pads and then apply the final clear coats.

That's how I do it and I have lots of experience painting automobiles.

There are plenty of techniques to doing it...choose the one that works best for you and good luck.

Rob