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Astrophotography and Sketching >> DSLR & Digital Camera Astro Imaging & Processing

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Nate B.
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Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
This is driving me nuts; need help!
      #2324750 - 04/13/08 06:58 PM Attachment (68 downloads)

I've been using a Hap Modded Canon 30D with Baader UV/IR filter for a little while now and I'm not happy with these strange bands across my images! I've shot before with a Canon 5D at up to 25 minutes without anything similar. It seems I get these bands regardless of exposure time, ISO, filter, telescope, etc.

I've shot H-alpha and RGB with 2 different scopes and I have these bands with both. My typical exposures are ~4-5 minutes @ ISO 800. These bands appear differently in my R,G, and B channels which leads to off bands of color in my RGB images. It only becomes noticeable when the images are stretched significantly but that's what happens 98% of the time.

So is this the camera? Does everyone else put up with this but not talk about it? Is it a Baader filter defect?

Here's a H-alpha shot, which shows the defect clearly. I don't have a common workflow to get rid of it; darks, flats, etc. don't do anything. Flats are all converted to grayscale so the different color intensities of the bands are not addressed.

So, what do I do? It's a new camera with a new Baader mod that isn't working right and it's getting me all worked up because summer is right around the bend and I don't have the money to try another modded camera. Help!

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Nate B.
sage


Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2324780 - 04/13/08 07:19 PM

Can this be interference?

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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jrcrillyAdministrator
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Reged: 04/30/03
Posts: 25879
Loc: NE Ohio
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2324781 - 04/13/08 07:20 PM

It could be a camera problem, but there are workarounds that you can try. For one thing, splitting out the R,G,and B channels of your flats and applying them to the R,G, and B channels of your lights should hide it.

Does this show up in darks or bias frames if you stretch them?

--------------------
John C
Urban Observatory
A&M/Astreya 76mm F/6 APO
Meade 80mm F/6 APO
TMB/LOMO 80mm F/7.5 APO
Meade 152ED, 178ED F/9 "APO"
Meade 12" SCT
Teeter 20" F/3.8 truss Newt w/ServoCat
NJP, LXD700, CGE, GPDX/SS2KPC
ST-10XME, DSI Pro


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Nate B.
sage


Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: jrcrilly]
      #2324785 - 04/13/08 07:23 PM

I've stretched darks and flats and can't find this. It appears that there MAY be fewer hot pixels in the areas of the bands but hard to tell if I'm just seeing things. I haven't been able to see them in my flats when stretched and therefore haven't been able to correct it that way.

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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jrcrillyAdministrator
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Reged: 04/30/03
Posts: 25879
Loc: NE Ohio
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2324798 - 04/13/08 07:28 PM

Quote:

Can this be interference?




If it's always in the same place it's within the camera. If they move up and down from frame to frame it could be a power supply problem.

--------------------
John C
Urban Observatory
A&M/Astreya 76mm F/6 APO
Meade 80mm F/6 APO
TMB/LOMO 80mm F/7.5 APO
Meade 152ED, 178ED F/9 "APO"
Meade 12" SCT
Teeter 20" F/3.8 truss Newt w/ServoCat
NJP, LXD700, CGE, GPDX/SS2KPC
ST-10XME, DSI Pro


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Nate B.
sage


Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: jrcrilly]
      #2324801 - 04/13/08 07:29 PM Attachment (42 downloads)

It seems to be in the same place. Here's another example of an RGB image broken down into RGB channels:

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Nate B.
sage


Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2324802 - 04/13/08 07:30 PM Attachment (35 downloads)

Red Channel:

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Nate B.
sage


Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2324803 - 04/13/08 07:30 PM Attachment (39 downloads)

Blue Channel:

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Nate B.
sage


Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2324805 - 04/13/08 07:31 PM Attachment (34 downloads)

Green Channel:

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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jrcrillyAdministrator
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Reged: 04/30/03
Posts: 25879
Loc: NE Ohio
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2324817 - 04/13/08 07:36 PM

That'd be irritating, all right. Can you post a stretched dark frame of similar duration?

--------------------
John C
Urban Observatory
A&M/Astreya 76mm F/6 APO
Meade 80mm F/6 APO
TMB/LOMO 80mm F/7.5 APO
Meade 152ED, 178ED F/9 "APO"
Meade 12" SCT
Teeter 20" F/3.8 truss Newt w/ServoCat
NJP, LXD700, CGE, GPDX/SS2KPC
ST-10XME, DSI Pro


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Nate B.
sage


Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: jrcrilly]
      #2324837 - 04/13/08 07:43 PM Attachment (39 downloads)

Yes: Here's a single dark stretched in ACR.

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Nate B.
sage


Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2324842 - 04/13/08 07:45 PM

So obviously it's the camera from this but why aren't my darks compensating for it then?

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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jrcrillyAdministrator
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Reged: 04/30/03
Posts: 25879
Loc: NE Ohio
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2324851 - 04/13/08 07:49 PM

Quote:

So obviously it's the camera from this but why aren't my darks compensating for it then?




Yup, it's there!

That's good news; means it can be corrected. Your question, of course, is the right one. It should be possible to make the darks do the job. How do you apply your darks now?

--------------------
John C
Urban Observatory
A&M/Astreya 76mm F/6 APO
Meade 80mm F/6 APO
TMB/LOMO 80mm F/7.5 APO
Meade 152ED, 178ED F/9 "APO"
Meade 12" SCT
Teeter 20" F/3.8 truss Newt w/ServoCat
NJP, LXD700, CGE, GPDX/SS2KPC
ST-10XME, DSI Pro


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Nate B.
sage


Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2324855 - 04/13/08 07:51 PM

I just noticed that my darks are all grayscale in DSS so that might explain that. Can DSS do darks and flats for each color channel?

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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jrcrillyAdministrator
Refractor wienie no more
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Reged: 04/30/03
Posts: 25879
Loc: NE Ohio
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2324860 - 04/13/08 07:55 PM

Quote:

I just noticed that my darks are all grayscale in DSS so that might explain that. Can DSS do darks and flats for each color channel?




Now we're gonna have to bring in an expert; I don't use DSS.

You are very close to the solution, though.

--------------------
John C
Urban Observatory
A&M/Astreya 76mm F/6 APO
Meade 80mm F/6 APO
TMB/LOMO 80mm F/7.5 APO
Meade 152ED, 178ED F/9 "APO"
Meade 12" SCT
Teeter 20" F/3.8 truss Newt w/ServoCat
NJP, LXD700, CGE, GPDX/SS2KPC
ST-10XME, DSI Pro


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Bert
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Reged: 02/17/06
Posts: 486
Loc: Australia
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: jrcrilly]
      #2324875 - 04/13/08 08:02 PM

Try using in camera noise reduction (ICNR) and then stretch and see if the effect has disappeared. You can just do a long exposure with the lens cap on with and without ICNR on and then see what the difference is.

If in a lit room cover the viewfinder to stop stray light getting in to the camera.

I always use ICNR as I have tried everything and NOTHING comes close!

Bert

Edited by Bert (04/13/08 08:05 PM)


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Strgazr27
Vendor - Deep Space Mods and Composites
****

Reged: 10/04/04
Posts: 6984
Loc: StonyHill Observatory
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Bert]
      #2324903 - 04/13/08 08:13 PM

I can tell you that I have never seen that banding in the 2 30D's I modded nor in any of the other cameras I have done. Are you using the AC adapter from Canon or a grey market piece?

CS's

--------------------
Bobby

StonyHill Observatory
Skywatcher EQ6 Pro (On it's way)
AT 130 F/6 Prototype
Royce 10" f/4 Astrograph (Under Construction)
Self Modded 40D
70-200 F2.8 L IS
SSAG

YAHOO TMB 130SS Group

Astronomy Technologies Yahoo Group


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Nate B.
sage


Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Strgazr27]
      #2324947 - 04/13/08 08:37 PM

I'll try the ICNR and see. That sounds like an interesting test.

I use the Canon AC adapter with batter --> AC, generator, or household AC with the same bands.

Thanks for all the help so far guys!

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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jrcrillyAdministrator
Refractor wienie no more
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Reged: 04/30/03
Posts: 25879
Loc: NE Ohio
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2324958 - 04/13/08 08:42 PM

Quote:

I'll try the ICNR and see. That sounds like an interesting test.




That'll definitely tell us something!

--------------------
John C
Urban Observatory
A&M/Astreya 76mm F/6 APO
Meade 80mm F/6 APO
TMB/LOMO 80mm F/7.5 APO
Meade 152ED, 178ED F/9 "APO"
Meade 12" SCT
Teeter 20" F/3.8 truss Newt w/ServoCat
NJP, LXD700, CGE, GPDX/SS2KPC
ST-10XME, DSI Pro


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Nate B.
sage


Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: jrcrilly]
      #2325110 - 04/13/08 10:11 PM Attachment (40 downloads)

Here's 5 minutes @ ISO 1600:

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Nate B.
sage


Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2325114 - 04/13/08 10:12 PM Attachment (38 downloads)

And here's the same with ICNR:

Obviously we're onto something here!

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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jrcrillyAdministrator
Refractor wienie no more
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Reged: 04/30/03
Posts: 25879
Loc: NE Ohio
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2325145 - 04/13/08 10:32 PM

Quote:

And here's the same with ICNR:

Obviously we're onto something here!




That did a much better job of fixing the amp glow also. I'd look at your setup on Deep Sky Stacker; it doesn't appear to be applying the darks in an optimal manner. I've never used it so I'm no help there. I use Maxim/DL or Images Plus for image reduction.

--------------------
John C
Urban Observatory
A&M/Astreya 76mm F/6 APO
Meade 80mm F/6 APO
TMB/LOMO 80mm F/7.5 APO
Meade 152ED, 178ED F/9 "APO"
Meade 12" SCT
Teeter 20" F/3.8 truss Newt w/ServoCat
NJP, LXD700, CGE, GPDX/SS2KPC
ST-10XME, DSI Pro


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Nate B.
sage


Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: jrcrilly]
      #2325159 - 04/13/08 10:39 PM

I can't seem to find controls to change how DSS handles the darks. The master darks it generates are grayscale which wouldn't work here.

I'll have to try a couple of these stacks in Images Plus to see if I can get better results. I was always under the impression that ICNR wasn't the way to go but who knows? It sure would eat up a lot of imaging time!

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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jrcrillyAdministrator
Refractor wienie no more
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Reged: 04/30/03
Posts: 25879
Loc: NE Ohio
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2325175 - 04/13/08 10:48 PM

Quote:

I can't seem to find controls to change how DSS handles the darks. The master darks it generates are grayscale which wouldn't work here.

I'll have to try a couple of these stacks in Images Plus to see if I can get better results.




You could always just calibrate the lights in IP and then take those frames to DSS for the rest of the assembly process.

--------------------
John C
Urban Observatory
A&M/Astreya 76mm F/6 APO
Meade 80mm F/6 APO
TMB/LOMO 80mm F/7.5 APO
Meade 152ED, 178ED F/9 "APO"
Meade 12" SCT
Teeter 20" F/3.8 truss Newt w/ServoCat
NJP, LXD700, CGE, GPDX/SS2KPC
ST-10XME, DSI Pro


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Bert
sage


Reged: 02/17/06
Posts: 486
Loc: Australia
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2325261 - 04/13/08 11:31 PM

Nothing beats ICNR if you are after dim targets and really stretch your data. You can persevere with banding and amp glow in your results or bite the bullet and just use INCR and get decent data!

Canon do something very cunning at the pixel level to reduce noise with ICNR.

I think you have just proved it to yourself by experiment.

I could say I told you so but I won't.

Bert


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jrcrillyAdministrator
Refractor wienie no more
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Reged: 04/30/03
Posts: 25879
Loc: NE Ohio
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Bert]
      #2325266 - 04/13/08 11:35 PM

Quote:

Nothing beats ICNR if you are after dim targets and really stretch your data. You can persevere with banding and amp glow in your results or bite the bullet and just use INCR and get decent data!




It definitely outperforms DSS in this instance. I find it hard to believe that the noise inherently injected by using a single dark wouldn't make for worse data than properly applied, combined darks, though.

--------------------
John C
Urban Observatory
A&M/Astreya 76mm F/6 APO
Meade 80mm F/6 APO
TMB/LOMO 80mm F/7.5 APO
Meade 152ED, 178ED F/9 "APO"
Meade 12" SCT
Teeter 20" F/3.8 truss Newt w/ServoCat
NJP, LXD700, CGE, GPDX/SS2KPC
ST-10XME, DSI Pro


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Bert
sage


Reged: 02/17/06
Posts: 486
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: jrcrilly]
      #2325335 - 04/14/08 12:11 AM

Even a single degree in temperature variation between your dark and light frames will introduce artefacts. In fact if your camera has been at idle ie on but not exposing the first long exposure frame taken with INCR will have 'holes' in it due to the sensor warming up while it is exposing.
You have no way of knowing what your sensor temperature is by monitoring ambient due to the self heating of your sensor.

After this first frame everything is at equilibrium and as long as the ambient temperature does not vary to rapidly then the ICNR will be the best way to minimise noise.

Here is one of mine
http://avandonkbl.bigblog.com.au/data/2/13839/image/LAGTRHDRSRRL2872020080406123047.jpg
Bert


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Nate B.
sage


Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: jrcrilly]
      #2325344 - 04/14/08 12:15 AM

Ok Bert, you've won this battle with ICNR but part of me has to believe that the math says darks are a better solution. I'll try IP and see what results I get and then you can say I told you so.

Out of curiosity, what all methods did you try to determine that ICNR works best? You obviously have taken some fantastic images so I don't doubt you know what you're doing but it does go against everything I've ever read before.

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Bert
sage


Reged: 02/17/06
Posts: 486
Loc: Australia
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2325363 - 04/14/08 12:28 AM

I took a set of darks before and in the middle and at the end of an imaging run. I used both fits and tiff files in ImagesPlus correcting for darks flats and bias for each set of darks.

The next night same target just ICNR.

The amp glow was gone as was the colour spots of noise with ICNR. There was no contest ICNR beats ANY METHOD that I know of with a DSLR.

I know it is a painful reality.

I have now built a Peltier fridge that keeps my Canon 5DH at -10C degrees.

See here
http://www.cloudynights.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/2247229/page/15/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1

And even now still use ICNR.

Bert

Edited by Bert (04/14/08 12:42 AM)


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Fabio Papa
Pooh-Bah
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Reged: 03/01/05
Posts: 1474
Loc: Piacenza, Italy
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Bert]
      #2325514 - 04/14/08 03:22 AM

I think the problem arise from the fact that DSS is just not thought to process narrow band type images. It's made with normal one shot color images in mind, so that is the way the program calibrates flats and darks.

I think for such specific use, you should embrace specific softwares. IP or Maxim come to mind as examples. You want software which can specifically work with narrow band imaging.

--------------------
Fabio Papa
Celestron C8 F/10
Vixen ED81SWT F/7.7
Orion Atlas EQ-G
Gruppo Astrofili di Piacenza


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Nate B.
sage


Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Fabio Papa]
      #2325734 - 04/14/08 08:05 AM

Thanks so much for all the help guys. I think I can finally rest easy with my new purchase now that I know I can get rid of those bands. Sometimes talking it out with a little guidance can get you to the answer so much quicker.

I can't wait to try out ICNR and make some comparisons of my own.

I have my own TEC cooler built around a single 80 watt TEC with CPU heatsink/fan similar to yours. I've been able to get ~43F reduction with it. I haven't had a chance to get it out for imaging yet though due to this awful weather!

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Joe G
scholastic sledgehammer


Reged: 01/10/07
Posts: 757
Loc: Southern California
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2326980 - 04/14/08 05:30 PM

Nate,

I had the same banding with my Canon 20Da. As Bert says, small temperature differentials causes the darks and lights to not perfectly match.

I had a tougher time getting darks and lights to match up the longer my subs were. This was a big reason I bought the CCD Labs Q453 (QHY8) which has an APS sized chip and cooling.

I never tried the ICNR, but your cooler should help!

--------------------
Tak FSQ 106N, 8" F4 GSO, 10" F4.7 Orion
CCD Labs Q453 (Q8)
TSS Modded Atlas

My Flickr Astrophotos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10168933@N08/

Click on the image->All sizes for larger images


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Strgazr27
Vendor - Deep Space Mods and Composites
****

Reged: 10/04/04
Posts: 6984
Loc: StonyHill Observatory
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Joe G]
      #2327528 - 04/14/08 09:19 PM

I'm not 100% sold on the ICNR. I have taken DF's with as much as a 5 degree temp. difference when I was using a DSLR and I NEVER had any of the banding visible in those images. This is from experience with a modded 300D, 20D, 30D and a 40D that I recently sold.

I also can't see losing half my imaging time due to ICNR. I see little if any gain with ICNR over correctly applied DF's and proper calibration.

It's obvious that the ICNR eliminated the issue but the question I still have is why was there the banding and bad amp glow to begin with?

CS's

--------------------
Bobby

StonyHill Observatory
Skywatcher EQ6 Pro (On it's way)
AT 130 F/6 Prototype
Royce 10" f/4 Astrograph (Under Construction)
Self Modded 40D
70-200 F2.8 L IS
SSAG

YAHOO TMB 130SS Group

Astronomy Technologies Yahoo Group


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Nate B.
sage


Reged: 03/08/07
Posts: 287
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Strgazr27]
      #2327687 - 04/14/08 10:33 PM

Banding aside, is that more amp glow than you'd expect at 5 minutes, ISO 1600, 68F? I don't have as many cameras under my belt to compare it to.

I'd really like to know what the banding issue is but it very much seems like one of those things that may remain a mystery at least on my limited funds....

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
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Bert
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2327991 - 04/15/08 01:57 AM

Did you stretch the the two exposure by the same parameters? I would have expected the ICNR image to be far darker.

Bert


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Dennis Sakva
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Bert]
      #2328093 - 04/15/08 05:06 AM

That banding may be a result of poorly soldered shield when the camera was modified.

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Nate B.
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Dennis Sakva]
      #2328155 - 04/15/08 06:47 AM

Both images were stretched by applying the same settings in ACR to both images.

Dennis, have you seen such things before? If I had done the mod myself I'd suspect that it could have been poorly done but I'd tend to believe that Hap does a quality job. Is there any way to test this hypothesis?

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Dennis Sakva
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2328201 - 04/15/08 07:44 AM

I've seen modded camera with poorly soldered shield that was giving much more noise than it should. I don't remember how frames looked exactly though. Still as you tested this is the camera problem I would resolder the screen first. Or at least look at soldering joints. Its quite easy. At worst it won't do you any harm. I'm not saying that Hap is not doing his job. Over time the soldering joints may get oxidized.
BTW. Don't expect it to go away with darks. It's the flats that you need to correct something like that.


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Tonk
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Dennis Sakva]
      #2328321 - 04/15/08 09:21 AM

Quote:

I find it hard to believe that the noise inherently injected by using a single dark wouldn't make for worse data than properly applied, combined darks, though.





The evidence revealed in the image reductions shown above merely demonstrates that dark signal (i.e hot pixels, amp glow, thermal banding) is being removed (or not). Its not easy to determine how much dark noise is being added by using a single dark frame (as in ICNR) merely by visual inspection - you just see an even "speckly" image after the reduction.

A master dark made from multiple stacked dark frames will inject less dark noise and if we could compare a single dark frame calibrated image against a multiple frame master dark frame calibrated image I would guarantee the the fine scale random noise component would be reduced -as per the math.



Contary to Berts observations re ICNR vs using master darks from IP/DSS etc etc I've never had any trouble using master darks with either IP or DSS. In fact my personal observations are that DSS does a much better job than the version of IP I'm using with near perfect hotpixel and ampglow elimination - even under extreme stretching. IP for some reason leaves many blue hot pixels in my images (!!). I'm plagued more by residual bias pattenening (most likley because I don't yet use bias images to precalibrate my master flat).

I have seen poor calibration performance when deliberately using mismatched darks so this points really at the way I collect my darks, being more to do with controlling/monitoring the ambient conditions while imaging. I.e. my darks remain matched because I aim to ensure my camera is stable temperature wise and via monitoring I aim to know that. I image under cool to low temps (below 5 celcius - i.e. most of the time as summer at 54N is semipermanent twilight and consequently I do something else (go and hunt sunset green flashes and noctilucent clouds).


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Tonk
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Tonk]
      #2328344 - 04/15/08 09:36 AM

Quote:

I'm not 100% sold on the ICNR. I have taken DF's with as much as a 5 degree temp. difference when I was using a DSLR and I NEVER had any of the banding visible in those images. This is from experience with a modded 300D, 20D, 30D and a 40D that I recently sold.

I also can't see losing half my imaging time due to ICNR. I see little if any gain with ICNR over correctly applied DF's and proper calibration.





Hear, hear! See my rant above. Doing dark frame properly gives excellent results and buys you back imaging time (I take darks during cloud outs and in the morning twlight zone - as I said above at 54N this is 1 hour+ of non imaging time which is typically thermally stable - the sun ain't warming anything yet)

ICNR is only for those with 300+ clear nights per year. plenty of time to waste!! I only get 30 - 40 nights per year so can't afford to waste time.

What I'm saying is ICNR is only a last resort crutch for solving the faulty camera's problem. The real camera fault needs to be sorted out IMO

What the experiments above do show is that some rows on the chip are less sensitive than the majority of the pixel rows. Why? is the issue

One experiment that should be done is to determine how much of this banding is due to bias if at all. Take a bias image and stretch that to see what banding is evident and how much of a match can be observed. Subtract the bias from the light and stretch and observe again (ICNR is also dealing with bias calibration - so we still need to determine where the fault lies - bias signal or dark signal or something else)

--------------------
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Hap Griffin
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Dennis Sakva]
      #2328790 - 04/15/08 12:53 PM

Quote:

I've seen modded camera with poorly soldered shield that was giving much more noise than it should. I don't remember how frames looked exactly though. Still as you tested this is the camera problem I would resolder the screen first. Or at least look at soldering joints. Its quite easy. At worst it won't do you any harm. I'm not saying that Hap is not doing his job. Over time the soldering joints may get oxidized.
BTW. Don't expect it to go away with darks. It's the flats that you need to correct something like that.




I'm the one who modded the camera and can say without a doubt that the shield over the CMOS sensor was soldered back fully. In fact, it's interesting how many cameras I see straight from the factory with incompletely soldered shields. It's not uncommon at all to have one or more of the solder areas completely solder-free. Being a longtime RF engineer myself, I know the importance of the internal shields and make certain that all of the connection points are well soldered when I re-assemble the cameras.

The only time I have ever seen similar banding is with a noisy external power supply (or one that lets electrical noise through) or a bad USB cable when downloading the image to a PC.

Hap Griffin
www.hapg.org


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Nate B.
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Hap Griffin]
      #2329045 - 04/15/08 02:26 PM

Hap,

So would it be worth it then to shoot some trial darks with the battery just to rule out electrical noise?

I'll plan on playing with the power sources and stretching some bias frames tonight. Bias should just be 1/8000 sec at similar ISO correct? Is temperature important for bias? I've never used bias before....

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Strgazr27
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Hap Griffin]
      #2329054 - 04/15/08 02:30 PM

Quote:

Quote:

I've seen modded camera with poorly soldered shield that was giving much more noise than it should. I don't remember how frames looked exactly though. Still as you tested this is the camera problem I would resolder the screen first. Or at least look at soldering joints. Its quite easy. At worst it won't do you any harm. I'm not saying that Hap is not doing his job. Over time the soldering joints may get oxidized.
BTW. Don't expect it to go away with darks. It's the flats that you need to correct something like that.




I'm the one who modded the camera and can say without a doubt that the shield over the CMOS sensor was soldered back fully. In fact, it's interesting how many cameras I see straight from the factory with incompletely soldered shields. It's not uncommon at all to have one or more of the solder areas completely solder-free. Being a longtime RF engineer myself, I know the importance of the internal shields and make certain that all of the connection points are well soldered when I re-assemble the cameras.

The only time I have ever seen similar banding is with a noisy external power supply (or one that lets electrical noise through) or a bad USB cable when downloading the image to a PC.

Hap Griffin
www.hapg.org




Hap, I agree about the possible noisy power supply as I mentioned earlier. The USB I did not think of but have never seen.

I'm surprised that you've seen that many unsoldered shields as I have seen none in the now 30+ cameras I have done. I do know they use a VERY fine solder layer that almost appears not done but when pulling up on the shield it was not going anywhere.

CS's

--------------------
Bobby

StonyHill Observatory
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AT 130 F/6 Prototype
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Hap Griffin
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Strgazr27]
      #2329114 - 04/15/08 02:55 PM

These are actually not soldered AT ALL. The tab from the shield will be laying on a completely bare copper land on the board. Also, occasionally, the shield will not be solder at the top to the tab on the imaging chip holder or to the bottom to the camera's frame (in the 350XT's). As of last month I've now modified 165 DSLR's, and I'd say maybe one out of 15 or so has an improperly soldered shield in at least one place.

Hap


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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2329118 - 04/15/08 02:57 PM

Quote:

Hap,

So would it be worth it then to shoot some trial darks with the battery just to rule out electrical noise?

I'll plan on playing with the power sources and stretching some bias frames tonight. Bias should just be 1/8000 sec at similar ISO correct? Is temperature important for bias? I've never used bias before....




Yes, definitely, try using just a battery.

And yes, bias frames are not particularly temperature sensitive since they are taken at the fastest shutter speed possible at a similar ISO to the image frames.

Hap


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Nate B.
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Hap Griffin]
      #2329521 - 04/15/08 05:33 PM Attachment (23 downloads)

Here's a stretched bias frame. Doesn't look like it's bias to me....

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Nate B.
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2329538 - 04/15/08 05:43 PM Attachment (24 downloads)

Here's a dark with the battery:

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD

Edited by Nate B. (04/15/08 05:44 PM)


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Bert
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2329899 - 04/15/08 08:49 PM Attachment (22 downloads)

What temperature are you taking these images at Nate. If you cover the camera with a dark cloth it will very quickly heat up the sensor due to internal heating and cause the dark to go that pink colour.

Here is a reduced jpg image of a jpg straight out of the camera of a 4 min dark at 1600 ISO taken with the Canon 5DH at 20C. Exif data should be intact.

Bert


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Bert
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2329904 - 04/15/08 08:52 PM Attachment (20 downloads)

Here is a 100% crop from the center.

Bert


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Nate B.
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Bert]
      #2329943 - 04/15/08 09:15 PM Attachment (23 downloads)

Bert,

I've been stretching the heck out of those images in ACR. Here's what the regular dark looks like:

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Nate B.
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2329946 - 04/15/08 09:15 PM Attachment (19 downloads)

And a crop of the center at 100%

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Joe G
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Bert]
      #2329985 - 04/15/08 09:30 PM Attachment (20 downloads)

Nate,

Personally, I don't think there is a problem with your camera. I have seen the same banding with my camera. It's my experience that thermal noise is higher the longer your subexposures. Obviously this is because the electronic circuits heat up and induce more noise. I think we all understand this.

I have found it harder to match my lights and darks as the exposure time has lengthened. I think this is because of temperature variances as to when the lights and darks were taken. As Tonk stated, he is very meticulous in making sure the temp between lights and darks is similar. If you're not, or the temperature changes too much, they are not going to match as well and the banding will show through to the final image.

Obviously the thermal heat is reduced with cooled cameras.

The attached image shows some darks I took when shooting M42 a couple of months ago. I applied the same stretch to all 3 images. These were with a Canon 20Da at ISO 400. Exposures were 15 seconds, 45 seconds and 200 seconds.

As expected, banding and amp glow are more evident in the 200 sec exposures. I started using my Canon with an Ha filter and used subs that were between 5-8 minutes. These effects were visibly worse and harder to process out. Again, I think that it is largely due to temperature differences.

I hope I am not overstating the obvious. I would be surprised if these bands aren't in more cameras if stretched in the same manner.

Joe G.

--------------------
Tak FSQ 106N, 8" F4 GSO, 10" F4.7 Orion
CCD Labs Q453 (Q8)
TSS Modded Atlas

My Flickr Astrophotos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10168933@N08/

Click on the image->All sizes for larger images


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Nate B.
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Joe G]
      #2330014 - 04/15/08 09:38 PM

Joe,

I've certainly been considering that there's nothing wrong with my camera other than others suggesting that there may be and also my prior use of the Canon 5D at up to 25 minute subs without any sign of similar banding. It certainly looks like you have similar banding in the same area that I do so maybe I don't have much to worry about other than trying to process it out. So what is the consensus? Is this normal or not?

I'm out taking some H-alpha shots right now as a first light with a new scope and am curious to see how the ICNR works to get rid of the banding or if it isn't a good fix.

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Joe G
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2330085 - 04/15/08 10:08 PM Attachment (21 downloads)

Nate consider this image.

This is the difference between my first dark of the night and the last dark. I shot 10 200sec darks. Maybe the elapsed time between the first and last dark was 40 minutes when counting in a delay between exposures. In a perfect world if there was no variance between darks due to any factor, there would be no signal left over. But look at the image below. There is still residual amp noise and banding. Again, this is SUPER stretched. And this is for darks that were taken within the same hour.

So my guess is your camera is normal. The world isn't perfect and there will be variances between your lights and darks. The better your approach in imaging technique, the better your end result will be.

Good luck.

Joe

--------------------
Tak FSQ 106N, 8" F4 GSO, 10" F4.7 Orion
CCD Labs Q453 (Q8)
TSS Modded Atlas

My Flickr Astrophotos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10168933@N08/

Click on the image->All sizes for larger images


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Nate B.
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Joe G]
      #2335981 - 04/18/08 01:08 PM

Joe,

I we can put this to rest for the most part but in think the interest of having some conclusion for the future readers of this thread, can we conclude that different Canon camera's have different noise / banding issues beyond differences in amp glow?

I think while we can create work arounds for some of these problems, some of us would rather not deal with them at all. I have shot hundreds if not thousands of frames with my 5D at longer exposure times (unmodded) without even a HINT of the type of banding I'm routinely seeing in my 30D images now. This isn't just a concern for astro work either. With a R72 filter for near infrared the bands are a huge problem for me with the 30D at exposure times of just 20 or 30 seconds @ ISO1600. They appear even on the back lcd before any processing!

So, maybe this is NORMAL for 20Ds, 30Ds, whatever, but if I had known this was going to be a problem I would have just bit the bullet, paid the extra money, and modded my 5D so I wouldn't have to deal with these issues! This isn't something that only comes up with extreme stretching. I've gotten fairly adept at processing over the months and I'd say 80% of the time things ARE stretched far enough that the banding becomes visiable under a critical eye; more so with fainter objects.

Amp glow certainly differs from model to model but does this banding also differ or did I get lucky and get a 5D that doesn't have any issues?

On a positive note, I shot some H-alpha 3 minute ISO 1600 shots a couple nights ago with ICNR and didn't see a single sign of the banding with ICNR enabled.

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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jrcrillyAdministrator
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2335988 - 04/18/08 01:12 PM

Quote:

On a positive note, I shot some H-alpha 3 minute ISO 1600 shots a couple nights ago with ICNR and didn't see a single sign of the banding with ICNR enabled.




That proves that darks, properly applied, will eliminate the banding. Averaged darks, properly applied, would therefore eliminate the banding while injecting less noise.

--------------------
John C
Urban Observatory
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Tonk
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: jrcrilly]
      #2336029 - 04/18/08 01:31 PM

I've never seen banding like this with my Canon - not even in uncalibrated stretched images (I do see bias pattening at extreme stretch but that is normal in uncalibrated images). I don't hear many others complain on this forum about this (we have had some other interesting problems presented in last few years, but not this particular one. This points towards you having a poorly performing camera as opposed to "normal".

I agree with John - correct application of darks will cure this as the ICNR results demo this. I personally would not tolerate adopting ICNR as the solution - but I've already explained why. YMMD. There should be a solution using your own exposed darks.

What happens when you take a light and immediately take a dark and use this to calibrate the light. This should give the same results as ICNR (like ICNR the dark was taken immediately after the light). If it doesn't cur ethe banding then its your calibration process that may need looking into

--------------------
Televue 85, GM-8/Gemini, Canon 40D (unmodded), Canon 450D (modded w/Astronomiks clip-ins - UV/IR, OWB)
Coronado SM60/BF10, Baader Herschel Wedge
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Joe G
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Tonk]
      #2336234 - 04/18/08 02:45 PM

Tony or anyone else,

If you don't mind posting a 3 minute or so original raw dark frame, that would be great. I always thought the banding was normal. Most of the time I can process it out with darks. But I would love to see a dark frame from another, or similar camera.

Maybe another 20d, 20da or 350?

You can upload to www.sendspace.com

It's free and easy and you can upload large files sizes. You don't need to register. All you need to do is upload the file and enter your email address and it will send you a link. You can then post the link. No one needs to see your email address.

Thanks,

Joe

--------------------
Tak FSQ 106N, 8" F4 GSO, 10" F4.7 Orion
CCD Labs Q453 (Q8)
TSS Modded Atlas

My Flickr Astrophotos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10168933@N08/

Click on the image->All sizes for larger images


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Joe G
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Joe G]
      #2336331 - 04/18/08 03:37 PM Attachment (14 downloads)

Nate,

I'm not sure what software you are using that brings up this problem, but I'll explain what I see.

I originally noticed this in ACDsee which is a photobrowsing/management software. It brings up thumbnails and I would use it to sort through good and bad subs. The banding is evident in the darks.

I also have PSP XI and PS CS3. When I open a dark in PSP and do a simple level stretch (a large stretch), I see the same effect that I see in ACDsee. When I open the same .cr2 file in PS CS3, I can not reproduce the banding by doing a level stretch. There is obviously something that PS does differently in decoding/displaying the file as compared to ACDsee or PSP. I can't see the issue in Nebulosity either.

Most imagers here use Photoshop, so this problem may or may not exist because of the peculiarities of the software used to decode and display the image.

So, I guess I'm curious to see somebody else's darks.

Here's the same dark with same same stretch done in PSP. The first was converted to a tif in the Canon EOS utility and then stretched in PSP. The second was opened in PSP, coverted to a tif, stretched and saved.

So the band is present in one and not the other, yet they are from the same exact raw file.

--------------------
Tak FSQ 106N, 8" F4 GSO, 10" F4.7 Orion
CCD Labs Q453 (Q8)
TSS Modded Atlas

My Flickr Astrophotos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10168933@N08/

Click on the image->All sizes for larger images


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Joe G
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Joe G]
      #2336334 - 04/18/08 03:38 PM Attachment (20 downloads)

Here's the PSP coverted tif:

--------------------
Tak FSQ 106N, 8" F4 GSO, 10" F4.7 Orion
CCD Labs Q453 (Q8)
TSS Modded Atlas

My Flickr Astrophotos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10168933@N08/

Click on the image->All sizes for larger images


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Joe G
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Joe G]
      #2336354 - 04/18/08 03:46 PM

Also, I would rule out a power supply/USB cable issue. The same issues are present whether the camera is hooked up to a computer via USB cable or the image is written directly to the flash card. Same with battery versus power supply.

I'm still holding to the case that these effects are present in most cameras, it just isn't evident because of the different software involved.

But I admit to not understanding why you see it in the 30d but not the 5d. I guess that's why I would like to see a couple of darks and clear it up.

Nate, have you been radiated since changing cameras?

--------------------
Tak FSQ 106N, 8" F4 GSO, 10" F4.7 Orion
CCD Labs Q453 (Q8)
TSS Modded Atlas

My Flickr Astrophotos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10168933@N08/

Click on the image->All sizes for larger images


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Joe G
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Joe G]
      #2336482 - 04/18/08 04:31 PM

Nate,

This is really driving me nuts!

I do notice that when opening the cr2 file in Adobe camera raw that you get the banding by switching the setting from "default" to "auto." Are you sure you had the same settings when opening the raw files for both your 5d and 30d?

The auto setting gave the bandless image above, but if I switch to default it gives the equivalent of the PSP image. Could this be due to the raw pre-processing settings?

Again, I guess if I could get a dark from a 20d or 30d that would help clear this up. The 5D is a newer camera (meaning that it surely has different noise characteristics).

It's too hard to answer without knowing what settings the various software programs are set to.

--------------------
Tak FSQ 106N, 8" F4 GSO, 10" F4.7 Orion
CCD Labs Q453 (Q8)
TSS Modded Atlas

My Flickr Astrophotos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10168933@N08/

Click on the image->All sizes for larger images


Edited by Joe G (04/18/08 04:42 PM)


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Joe G
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Joe G]
      #2336588 - 04/18/08 05:16 PM Attachment (28 downloads)

I think this solves it. I borrowed a friend's 20D and took a 3 minute dark. Opened it in PSP. The same banding is present. That suggests that the banding is normal, at least in 20Ds. I imagine that most haven't noticed it because most of us don't look at our raw darks. Or, if we do, our Adobe camera raw settings are set to values which don't display the banding. Because I didn't use Adobe PS CS3 until recently, and PSP XI doesn't do any automatic pre-processing, I always noticed the banding and thought it normal. I would imagine that some of us have their settings set such that they don't notice the banding in ACR.

It very well may be true that the 5D doesn't have this banding. I don't know. It is something to re-check.

I find it unlikely that my friend's camera was similarly defective when compared to my 20Da.

Here's the 20D dark stretched the same as my PSP 20Da above.

Hope this helps.

Joe

--------------------
Tak FSQ 106N, 8" F4 GSO, 10" F4.7 Orion
CCD Labs Q453 (Q8)
TSS Modded Atlas

My Flickr Astrophotos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10168933@N08/

Click on the image->All sizes for larger images


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Nate B.
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Joe G]
      #2336633 - 04/18/08 05:44 PM

I haven't confirmed this for sure BUT I believe that DSS isn't taking care of my banding issue because the master dark that it generates is a grayscale image and the banding differs in each color channel so a single correction applied to each channel isn't effective.

I'm going to go stretch some 5D dark frames and see what I can see. I say it's not there because I've never seen it in any of my excessively stretched stacks even when I wasn't using darks.

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Nate B.
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2336645 - 04/18/08 05:51 PM Attachment (26 downloads)

Here's a 5D dark @ 5 min.

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Nate B.
sage


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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2336661 - 04/18/08 05:57 PM Attachment (25 downloads)

Here's a master dark frame made by DSS out of my 30D darks: 6 minute @ ISO800. The monochrome approach is what is giving me color gradients in those banding area's. If you look back at a previous post you'll see differences in each color channel.

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Joe G
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2336691 - 04/18/08 06:13 PM

Nate,

Personally, I don't think that DSS is doing anything wrong. You can always ask Luc in the yahoo DSS forum. He is extremely helpful.

I am sure that the banding patterns between the 20D, 30D and 5D are different. There might not be a banding pattern at all in the 5D. Please upload a 5D, straight from the camera, raw file (no processing, no master dark). I'd like to check it out. The 5D is a newer camera and may not have as much noise, although it seems to have a fair amount of amp glow, at least as displayed above.

Again, I am coming to the conclusion that this banding is prevalent in 20Ds and 30Ds. If your darks and lights are taken under similar circumstances, much of this will be adjusted for. If you look at your second image in this post of M101, it is hard to see the banding. It's slightly there if it is pointed out and you know it's there. Otherwise most folks would not notice it.

I have to believe that others have not noticed the bandings because their ACR settings are set so that it is not evident. This should be easy to determine if others would upload unprocessed raw darks. Any in camera or software processing is going to give a distorted picture.

Again, I upgraded to a cooled camera because I had a harder time getting my darks to match up to my lights regarding this thermal noise. Largely, I believe, because I stretched my exposure times out. And largely because of termperature changes when the lights and darks were taken. I think these are problems that are inherent in non-cooled DSLRs. Better technique can certainly help.

Can't really say more without seeing another few raw dark samples.

Joe

Edit: I mean upload the original file to sendspace as I described above if possible. I understand if there are bandwidth limitations.

--------------------
Tak FSQ 106N, 8" F4 GSO, 10" F4.7 Orion
CCD Labs Q453 (Q8)
TSS Modded Atlas

My Flickr Astrophotos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10168933@N08/

Click on the image->All sizes for larger images


Edited by Joe G (04/18/08 06:15 PM)


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Tonk
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2336698 - 04/18/08 06:15 PM

Ah ha! Got it

When you convert RAWs to TIFF (or similar) you must use a linear conversion at minimum. Ideally they should not be debayered at this stage. These "stock" RAW converters (Photoshop etc) are designed for daytime photographs and are confused by near black dark calibration images. These converters automatically apply a non linear stretch to attempt to get the right exposure out of the dark image.

For calibration purposes a linear unstretched conversion of both lights and darks is a prerequite. Ideally they should not be debayered until after calibration. Otherwise the data is distorted by inconsistent non linear stretches. The degree of the stretch during "stock" conversion is automatically selected from the data in the image, hence darks and lights will be treated differently and become unmatched for calibration purposes.

The correct solution is to use software designed to convert and calibrate astro photos. The packages I would recommend are Images Plus or DSS (Nebulosity and MaximDSLR are others). Both these packages calibrate via CFA (non debayered images) before the debayer step

Reading back through this thread there is a mistake in thinking DSS creates a greyscale master darks - it doesn't. What your are looking is a CFA (pre debayered) image - its in TIFF format but is patterned as 2 x 2 pixel squares representing RG/GB pixels extactly as in the orginal RAW image. Using these to calibrate is far far more accurate than debayering the image first and then calibrating.

Your problem now all starts to make sense - the ICNR directly applies the RAW format dark to the RAW format light (subtracting the dark from the light) without any debayering and certainly no non linear stretching. On the other hand you are converting the RAWs to TIFF using a debayering and non linear stetch automatically applied by the Photoshop converter.

Another point to note - back of camera imagess and any image reviewing application that shows the thumbnails extracted from the camera RAW image are showing non linear stretched JPG images - these are not representive of the state of your images - especially the darks!

So push all your lights/darks/flats etc through DSS - save the final file as a TIFF image (using the "save file" option) and open in photoshop - your problem should have gone away.

--------------------
Televue 85, GM-8/Gemini, Canon 40D (unmodded), Canon 450D (modded w/Astronomiks clip-ins - UV/IR, OWB)
Coronado SM60/BF10, Baader Herschel Wedge
Leeds Sky Clock Ripon Sky Clock


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Nate B.
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Joe G]
      #2336709 - 04/18/08 06:23 PM

I'm planning on asking Luc about the dark frame subtraction. I agree, the banding isn't terrible in the M101 image. I noticed it because I tried to color balance things and noticed that there were bands of different color. If DSS created a master dark with RGB values I think this would be taken care of much better. Maybe it does and I just can't find it in the settings?

I haven't used IP much for processing in the last year so have to brush up on it and do some dark subtractions with it and see how things come out. I'm guessing that the banding may be more consistent than random noise which means that a few darks should get me most of the way towards eliminating it rather than using ICNR all the time.

I'll see what I can do about uploading some raws for you to play with. Don't have a lot of free time this evening...

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Nate B.
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2336723 - 04/18/08 06:29 PM

Tonk,

I wish!

I first noticed my problem with images that went through DSS. I never debayer anywhere else other than to show demo darks for this thread.

I see now what you're saying about the dark frame calibration! That makes perfect sense. So it must be something else; darks not matching well at all? Could they be so bad that this banding isn't removed well at all by DSS but so effectively by ICNR?

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Tonk
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2336736 - 04/18/08 06:32 PM

Quote:

If DSS created a master dark with RGB values I think this would be taken care of much better. Maybe it does and I just can't find it in the settings?




It does create an RGB master dark and there are no settinsg needed. As I said above the master dark may appear as grey but it contains a CFA matrix of RGB pixels. You are not supposed to go looking at it . Just let DSS use it



--------------------
Televue 85, GM-8/Gemini, Canon 40D (unmodded), Canon 450D (modded w/Astronomiks clip-ins - UV/IR, OWB)
Coronado SM60/BF10, Baader Herschel Wedge
Leeds Sky Clock Ripon Sky Clock


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Nate B.
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Tonk]
      #2336742 - 04/18/08 06:36 PM

Ugh, we're posting out of order! I know what you're saying about DSS and I understand how it works now for the darks. I just don't understand why it's not correcting this problem as much as ICNR does.

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Nate B.]
      #2336764 - 04/18/08 06:49 PM

Have you tried using new data - shoot one light and one dark and use DSS/IP to process these again. If it works out then it sound like some/all darks had a temp shift

Are you feeding RAWs into DSS or are you converting to TIFF first and giving the TIFFs to DSS? (feed it RAWs)

--------------------
Televue 85, GM-8/Gemini, Canon 40D (unmodded), Canon 450D (modded w/Astronomiks clip-ins - UV/IR, OWB)
Coronado SM60/BF10, Baader Herschel Wedge
Leeds Sky Clock Ripon Sky Clock


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Nate B.
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Tonk]
      #2336997 - 04/18/08 08:34 PM

I'll try shooting some new lights and darks soon and reworking things as a test.

I always shoot RAW and process them directly with DSS.

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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Joe G
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Tonk]
      #2337051 - 04/18/08 08:58 PM

I use DSS, Images Plus, and Nebulosity.

If I open a Canon raw dark file in Nebulosity, I can see slight banding. I believe Nebulosity is doing a linear stretch of the data. If I ask Nebulosity to demosiac the image, the banding is still there. So I think the banding is there.

Tony, as you are saying, most of us just load our RAW lights, darks, bias, and flats into IP or DSS and let the software do the work. I don't think this is a calibration/stacking issue. The software is doing what it is supposed to do.

If you open up a raw file in ACR (Photoshop), I would assume that some kind of stretch is being applied. There is an auto setting and a default setting. Depending upon the setting, the banding is visible or it isn't. You can adjust the "exposure" settings to see the banding/amp glow increase or decrease.

I guess the question is: Is the banding normal or not? If I take a raw file and stretch it and see banding, the banding is there? The stretching just makes it visible. And it's visibility is determined by the settings that ACR (and other programs) uses in decoding the file. If the settings are set such that that banding isn't visible, we think there is no banding. But it is there. So I conclude that it is normal and we don't have defective cameras. Again, I saw the same banding on my friends 20d as shown above.

Now the whole point of these programs is to remove this noise. For the most part, these programs do a great job. There is nothing defective about the programs. But there are variations in real life that these programs can't fix. So we can take dark frames and apply them to our light frames to remove this noise, but that doesn't mean they will match up perfectly because of differences in temperature, for example.

So I thought that the reason most of us don't use the in camera noise reduction is because of the inconvenience of taking a light and then a dark and then a light and then a dark. All that time wasted taking darks could be devoted to taking lights. Then we can take the darks later (of course the temperature is going to be different), use DSS to statistically combine the subs and try to create a better final image. I'm not sure whether a light that is calibrated for an in-camera dark that is taken right after the light is a better light frame than a light that is calibrated with a median combined dark three hours later? The temperature of the in-camera calibrated light and dark will certainly be closer, but the dark will be noisier because it doesn't benefit from S/N improvement that comes with combining multiple images.

So this is my conclusion based upon this discussion:

1. The banding is normal. I'm sure some cameras have more or less of it. If you apply the same processing to a raw file to bring it out, it will be there in varying degrees.

2. DSS, ImagesPlus etc., will eliminate much of this noise as they are designed to do.

3. Differences in temperature between when the lights and darks were taken will affect the ability to eliminate this noise. I have also found that this noise is harder to eliminate with a six minute exposure as compared to a two minute exposure. I am not sure if this is outside ambient temperature related or due to the camera heating up more and maybe the dark current is less statistically predictable.

Nate, it might be that the Canon 5D is inherently much less noisier, hence superior. I don't know. I guess it comes down to whether you are happy with the final images you get after all the processing. Tony gets great images with his 10D and I think that chip is noisier than either the 20D or 30D.

Please tell me if there is something wrong with the above logic.

Joe

--------------------
Tak FSQ 106N, 8" F4 GSO, 10" F4.7 Orion
CCD Labs Q453 (Q8)
TSS Modded Atlas

My Flickr Astrophotos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10168933@N08/

Click on the image->All sizes for larger images


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Tonk
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Joe G]
      #2337686 - 04/19/08 05:27 AM

I agree with nearly all you said Joe. Just one minor minor quibble your use of "noise" - really darks are used to removed unwanted signal components (bias and hotpixels). Stacking reduces "noise" i.e. the random components - but this is just me being nerdy and pedantic

Yes do the right processing and see what comes out and then decide if you are happy or not. Yes my 10D is a noise, hotpixel and amp glow factory but I get by

--------------------
Televue 85, GM-8/Gemini, Canon 40D (unmodded), Canon 450D (modded w/Astronomiks clip-ins - UV/IR, OWB)
Coronado SM60/BF10, Baader Herschel Wedge
Leeds Sky Clock Ripon Sky Clock


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Joe G
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Tonk]
      #2338375 - 04/19/08 02:01 PM

Tony,

I agree, the use of the word "noise" should have been more specific in the discussion above. I think, as I have aged, the noise in the gray matter between my ears has increased over time. Unfortunately, this is not temperature dependent.

Certainly, this banding and amp glow is signal that we are trying to eliminate with the proper application of darks. And by averaging or median combining our darks we are trying to get a better S/N ratio in our master dark frame so that we can eliminate the dark signal from our desired result.

Unfortunately, at lest in my brain, I use the notions interchangeably. You always hear CCD imagers, especially those using the Starlight Xpress cameras, say that the Sony sensors are so noise free that they don't need to take darks, etc.

Of course, I became concerned because it seemed that my banding/amp glow (which I thought as normal) indicated a possibly defective camera. Nate certainly brought this to our attention. I always noticed it because I would mechanically use ACDsee to browse through my raw subs to visually remove unwanted subs before loading raw files into IP or DSS. I'm not sure exactly how ACDsee or PSP or PS take the raw files and write them to the screen. It seems that they are likely doing some stretching to display the data. So this dislay, and the ability to detect the banding/amp glow is dependent upon the software settings that are employed. I have to believe because this factor was not consistently applied in this thread, that this might be a factor as to whether this banding was normal or not. Also, this is why I wanted to see others' raw dark subs so that I could view them using the same process, hopefully being able to resolve the issue.

I hope Nate is happy with his decision and gets good results from his 30D. There is nothing worse than taking a ton of subs thinking your camera is defective. I am not sure if the 5D is inherently less of a noise, hot pixel and amp glow factory than the 30D (or 10D or 20D). I hope this works out to Nate's satisfaction.

And if anyone has further reason to believe that our cameras are defective, I surely would like to know.

Joe

--------------------
Tak FSQ 106N, 8" F4 GSO, 10" F4.7 Orion
CCD Labs Q453 (Q8)
TSS Modded Atlas

My Flickr Astrophotos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10168933@N08/

Click on the image->All sizes for larger images


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Joe G
scholastic sledgehammer


Reged: 01/10/07
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Joe G]
      #2342708 - 04/21/08 04:40 PM

Nate,

Not to beat this thing to death, but you may want to look through this analysis of the 20d versus the 10d. A little too technical for me in parts, but it does show evident banding in both cameras in the part titled, "Amp Glow."

http://www.astrosurf.org/buil/20d/20dvs10d.htm

--------------------
Tak FSQ 106N, 8" F4 GSO, 10" F4.7 Orion
CCD Labs Q453 (Q8)
TSS Modded Atlas

My Flickr Astrophotos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10168933@N08/

Click on the image->All sizes for larger images


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Nate B.
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Re: This is driving me nuts; need help! new [Re: Joe G]
      #2344396 - 04/22/08 12:40 PM

Yes, I definately see similar banding in those test examples.

I think my next course of action is to determine what the best technique is to get rid of the banding in my images. ICNR completely gets rid of it and I haven't had such luck with IP or DSS. I can't understand why though.... Unless the banding is very dependant on camera orientation which, I'm not sure if your 20Da is similar, but the 30D seems VERY sensitive to orientation. I can easily create additional ampglow in other regions (Upper Right) in addition to the usual bottom right by changing the orientation of the camera. I've had a lot of trouble over the course of a single 5 hour imaging session with the amp glow moving around. ICNR would certainly make that problem go away. There may be a point at which the benefits of ICNR outweigh the extra noise created from the subtration of a single dark.

Sounds like a test to me. Once these clouds move out I'll be comparing ICNR and different methods of dark subtration to determine what works best for me.

--------------------
Tak FSQ-106EDX
Pentax 75 EDHF 75mm f/6.7 APO
Apogee Alta U8300 CCD
Orion Atlas EQ-G Mount with EQMOD


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