Kurly
member
Reged: 11/02/07
Posts: 70
Loc: Rockwood, Ontario, Canada
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Hi All,
I hope a few people can chime in to help me sort out a problem I'm having operating my 300D from a laptop.
I got a serial cable with the mini-jack, plugged it into the camera & the computer, started the computer, turned on the camera, got DSLR shutter open, selected COM1 and the shutter immediately opens and stays open unless I force it closed by making an adjustment on the camera. I can't seem to operate it from DSLR Shutter after that.
I've tried it with Delphinus as well with similar results. The shutter seems to open after a capture command is completed, it stays shut while the exposure time counts down, then opens as the exposure is supposed to end.
I've tried the same cable on my 350D with the same results, so I know it's not the camera.
Does this sound like a problem with the cable? I was doubtful of this as I ordered it from a reliable source, but I know everyone makes mistakes sometimes.
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StarmanDan
sage
Reged: 08/27/07
Posts: 391
Loc: China Spring, Texas
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Sounds like you might have a short somewhere. Mini jack should be stereo not mono, double check your wiring. I made mine and wired mine wrong the first time around with symptoms similar to yours. Make sure you are working in manual mode, under the custom options enable the mirror lock up. Make sure COM1 isn't being used by something else like the mouse. Laptops are limited with their resources. I had to use a usb to serial adapter to get a COM port that worked with my setup.
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"Starman" Dan Doyle
Texas Astronomical Society of Dallas
Central Texas Astronomical Society
8" LX200GPS w/ST80 guidescope, Canon 350D+DSI Pro
150mm f/8 Sky Watcher Refractor
10" f/4.5 Homemade Dob
RV-6 Criterion Dynascope
http://darcstar.wordpress.com
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Falcon-
sage
Reged: 09/11/09
Posts: 242
Loc: Gambier Island, BC, Canada
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That also sounds similar to what happend with mine when my bad solder job failed... Also, are you running with mirror-lockup enabled? (I know it is not enabled by default, but there is modified firmware available for the 300D that adds that ability). I found mirror lockup on the 300D and DSLR Shutter to do odd things sometimes.
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Tasco 11TE-5 'Lunagrosso': 4.5" Newtonian, 900mm f/7.9
Meade DS-2114S: 4.5" Newtonian, 1000mm f/8.8
Galileoscope: 50mm Achromatic Refractor, 500mm f/10
Tasco EQ-2-like mount w/ clock drive
Celestron CG-5GT mount
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Kurly
member
Reged: 11/02/07
Posts: 70
Loc: Rockwood, Ontario, Canada
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I got the cable from Hap Griffin, so I doubt he'd use the wrong mini-jack for it. It's possible (though at first I figured rather unlikely) that the cable was soldered incorrectly.
I haven't upgraded the firmware to enable mirror lock - can anyone direct me to where I can find the hack and a procedure for installing it?
I'll try hooking it up to my desktop to see if maybe there's a com port sharing issue on the laptop, thanks for the suggestion.
If anyone else has any ideas I'd love to hear them!
Cheers,
Mike
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Falcon-
sage
Reged: 09/11/09
Posts: 242
Loc: Gambier Island, BC, Canada
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Are you using a USB-to-Serial adaptor or a built-in serial port?
The 300D modified firmware can be found here: http://satinfo.narod.ru/en/index.html
It does not do a whole lot, just enables a couple features found on the 10D that the 300D hardware was also capable of.
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Tasco 11TE-5 'Lunagrosso': 4.5" Newtonian, 900mm f/7.9
Meade DS-2114S: 4.5" Newtonian, 1000mm f/8.8
Galileoscope: 50mm Achromatic Refractor, 500mm f/10
Tasco EQ-2-like mount w/ clock drive
Celestron CG-5GT mount
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waassaabee
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 11/26/07
Posts: 2710
Loc: Central California Coast
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I never tried usin my 300D or 350D with just one cable. I always have used the shutter release Serial to USB and the USB from camera to computer.
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Gary
34N 120W
-My kingdom for blue squares!-
WO Megrez 90FD/TV 0.8x FR/FF
AT8RC
mini Borg 50/Q-Guide/PHD
CGEM
Canon 350D Hap Griffin Baader mod - o.o
My Friend Flickr
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Kurly
member
Reged: 11/02/07
Posts: 70
Loc: Rockwood, Ontario, Canada
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Hi Falcon,
It's a built-in serial port, so it's not a USB-to-Serial adaptor problem. So far the only thing I can think of besides bad wiring would be an issue with the com port, like my wireless mouse using that port.
So, I'm a little confused over the mirror lockup - would it be easier to leave the firmware alone and just keep away from the mirror lock functions until I get the issue of PC control sorted, or will it help to have the function available and enabled?
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Kurly
member
Reged: 11/02/07
Posts: 70
Loc: Rockwood, Ontario, Canada
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Waasaabee,
I'm aiming to have both cables hooked up to the camera, but I can get the camera to operate with the software with the camera to USB cables (allowing a max of 30 s exposure), I can't get the mini-jack to serial setup to work properly. What software do you use with your setup so you can take long exposures, download them to your computer and view them?
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cdndob
professor emeritus
Reged: 07/28/06
Posts: 658
Loc: The Great White North
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I use DSLR Shutter with my 400d and it works fine using my homemade cable. It sounds like the COM signal for the shutter is inverted and I don't remember if DSLR Shutter has a software setting for that but I'll check when I got home.
BTW, I wouldn't bother with the mirror lockup until you get the basic shutter control functioning.
Steve
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Kurly
member
Reged: 11/02/07
Posts: 70
Loc: Rockwood, Ontario, Canada
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Thanks for your input, Steve. Let me know if you find it. I didn't see anything obvious and it seemed I had the same issue with Delphinus as with DSLR Shutter. It definitely made me think that the commands are "inverted", as you put it.
I'll see how I make out tonight when I try connecting to the desktop.
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Falcon-
sage
Reged: 09/11/09
Posts: 242
Loc: Gambier Island, BC, Canada
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I agree with Steve - for astrophotography uses the only thing the modified firmware adds that is of much use is the mirror-lockup ability, and mirror lockup is *only* needed if you have vibration issues caused by the mirror motion when taking an exposure. If you do not have those mirror-induced vibration problems then there is no need for mirror lockup functions.
What mode is the camera in when you are trying to trigger it with DSLR shutter? If I recall correctly you basically *have* to be in M (manual) mode and Blub setting for exposure time.
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Tasco 11TE-5 'Lunagrosso': 4.5" Newtonian, 900mm f/7.9
Meade DS-2114S: 4.5" Newtonian, 1000mm f/8.8
Galileoscope: 50mm Achromatic Refractor, 500mm f/10
Tasco EQ-2-like mount w/ clock drive
Celestron CG-5GT mount
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Kurly
member
Reged: 11/02/07
Posts: 70
Loc: Rockwood, Ontario, Canada
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Hi Falcon,
Yeah, I did have it in M mode on Bulb. Any other mode and it takes the pictures as per that mode the moment it senses an actuation command. It's just not sensing that command correctly, it seems. Thanks for following this thread and offering some help!
I'll get back to you guys tomorrow after some more mucking around tonight!
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waassaabee
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 11/26/07
Posts: 2710
Loc: Central California Coast
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First off did you load the serial to USB drivers?
I use ImagesPlus for camera control.
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Gary
34N 120W
-My kingdom for blue squares!-
WO Megrez 90FD/TV 0.8x FR/FF
AT8RC
mini Borg 50/Q-Guide/PHD
CGEM
Canon 350D Hap Griffin Baader mod - o.o
My Friend Flickr
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Kurly
member
Reged: 11/02/07
Posts: 70
Loc: Rockwood, Ontario, Canada
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Hi Waasaabee,
There is no USB-to-serial adapter in my setup. I go mini-jack at the camera end directly to the serial port in the laptop. The regular USB cable that came with the camera I planned on using to download the pictures after they have been taken to check focus. Is that not the way to do it?
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waassaabee
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 11/26/07
Posts: 2710
Loc: Central California Coast
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You've got a serial port on your laptop? How convenient.
If you're going directly to a serial port, camera is on Maunual/Bulb everything is good so far.
I'm not familiar with DSLR Shutter or Delphinius...
Have you tried assigning another comm port?
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Gary
34N 120W
-My kingdom for blue squares!-
WO Megrez 90FD/TV 0.8x FR/FF
AT8RC
mini Borg 50/Q-Guide/PHD
CGEM
Canon 350D Hap Griffin Baader mod - o.o
My Friend Flickr
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cdndob
professor emeritus
Reged: 07/28/06
Posts: 658
Loc: The Great White North
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Kurly, no luck with DSLR Shutter as there are no settings.
The only two things I can think of are, your serial port is really messed up, albeit unlikely, but it might be worth a test on a different computer if you have one. If that produces the same result then the cable might not be wired correctly. Based on the typical design of these cables, if they reversed the wires on pins 5 and 7 on the DB9 connector it could have that "inverted" effect you're seeing.
I'd suggest contacting Hap Griffin, maybe they can shed some light on this or, if you can remove the DB9 connecter cover, verify the wires (if colored coded) are correct.
Do you have any electronics gear, as in a Multimeter and/or a small soldering iron?
Steve
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Falcon-
sage
Reged: 09/11/09
Posts: 242
Loc: Gambier Island, BC, Canada
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Quote:
The regular USB cable that came with the camera I planned on using to download the pictures after they have been taken to check focus. Is that not the way to do it?
That is indeed the way to do it on the 300D. I do have a tip for you though, there is an application called DSLRFocus (found here) that will automatically download/display the images as you are taking them to help you get a good focus.
When I shoot with my 300D I use DSLRFocus to get framed up and focused, and then switch to DSLR Shutter to take the series of images I want.
I see you have a 350D as well - if you choise to use that there are some more sophiticated applications, such as Nebulosity that do an even better job of helping focus and automating capture (plus stacking, processing, etc).
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Tasco 11TE-5 'Lunagrosso': 4.5" Newtonian, 900mm f/7.9
Meade DS-2114S: 4.5" Newtonian, 1000mm f/8.8
Galileoscope: 50mm Achromatic Refractor, 500mm f/10
Tasco EQ-2-like mount w/ clock drive
Celestron CG-5GT mount
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bebert
sage
Reged: 07/21/08
Posts: 247
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I agree - check your wiring. I had very similar problems after I converted my TC-80N3 for use with my 300D. It was a short near the mini jack that was the problem. A multimeter was the key to troubleshooting the issue.
I gave up on using the computer to download the subs. The speed of USB 1.1 (or is it 1.0?) is painfully slow and I'm impatient. Took me close to 1 minute to download each RAW file. After I added it all up I was trading instant gratification for several extra subs each night.
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Celestron C8
Orion 80 ED
Vixen 70s for guiding
CG5-ASGT
SSAG
PHD Guiding
Canon 300D(a)
Celestron 0.63 focal reducer
WO 0.8x FF/FR version II
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Kurly
member
Reged: 11/02/07
Posts: 70
Loc: Rockwood, Ontario, Canada
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Waasaabee,
Yeah, I tried COM1-7. Only COM1 allowed a camera connection in the software.
Cdndob - thanks, that's some good information! I do have a multi-meter and a basic soldering iron. I suck at using both, despite the 2 electrical courses I did back in school!
But if I have to, I may end up using (or mis-using, as the case might be) them to solve this. Or just to finally screw it up good and proper right beyond repair. 
Falcon - I've been humming and hawing over spending the extra $45 bucks on DSLR Focus for a while now. Still on the fence, but I have a feeling I might capitulate once I have the camera working with the serial cable. I definitely like the function it offers of downloading & displaying the shots. I'm sticking to the 300D however, as it is modded, while the 350 is not. The difference is really amazing!
Thanks again for the comments folks! I had every intention of trying the camera with the desktop last night, but I popped my head outside to discover a CLOUD-FREE EVENING, and all plans were put on hold until the clouds roll back in. By the look of things presently, that's probably tonight.
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cdndob
professor emeritus
Reged: 07/28/06
Posts: 658
Loc: The Great White North
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Quote:
I do have a multi-meter and a basic soldering iron. I suck at using both, despite the 2 electrical courses I did back in school!
I can walk you through some tests and troubleshooting when I get home later on tonight, just let me know when you're available.
The first one will be to connect the cable to the serial port on the computer and then measure the resistance between the tip and sleeve on the 2.5mm plug.
Steve
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theoUK
sage
Reged: 04/22/04
Posts: 279
Loc: N. Yorks, UK
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Hi,
When making my own shutter jack cable I had the same problem when connecting it to timer circuit. The problem was just the polarity of the jack switch, don't know why. Try reversing the jack cables.
Theo
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Vixen SP
TAL-150P
Surplus shed f5 travel scope
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Kurly
member
Reged: 11/02/07
Posts: 70
Loc: Rockwood, Ontario, Canada
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Hi Steve,
Thanks kindly for your considerate offer, I really appreciate it. I doubt I'll be available tonight to take you up on it, I have a late doctor's appointment after work and it's over an hour's drive. I'll try to hook it up to the desktop as well as to the multi-meter if I get a chance and I'll report back tomorrow.
Where in our "Great White North" are you located? I'm just outside of Guelph, ON.
You know, looking back at all the replies to this post really makes me feel that the folks in the amateur astronomy community have got to be some of the most thoughtful, considerate and intellectually generous people on the planet. I'm very flattered to call myself a member of this community, it really is quite extraordinary.
Many thanks to everyone for your feedback and support.
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cdndob
professor emeritus
Reged: 07/28/06
Posts: 658
Loc: The Great White North
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I'm in Winterpeg 
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Kurly
member
Reged: 11/02/07
Posts: 70
Loc: Rockwood, Ontario, Canada
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Well, I can empathise - I drove through the first snow flakes coming down this morning. Some were the size of golf balls! 
Sure wish we could pipe Florida sunshine up to Canada the way we pipe Canadian oil down to the States!
I didn't get home until well past my bedtime last night, hopefully I'll get a chance to apply all the wisdom above tonight.
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Kurly
member
Reged: 11/02/07
Posts: 70
Loc: Rockwood, Ontario, Canada
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Hi Steve,
I tried hooking up the camera to the desktop last night with the same results as I had with the laptop.
I got the multimeter out and it's sitting next to the camera & cable now. I'll try getting a reading for the resistance between the tip and the sleave on the 2.5mm jack. What am I looking for? 
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cdndob
professor emeritus
Reged: 07/28/06
Posts: 658
Loc: The Great White North
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Hi Kurly,
So if the desktop is doing the same then that rules out the wacky serial port signals.
For the next test,
- Connect the serial cable to your laptop
- Start DSLR shutter and select the COM port where the cable is connected.
- Set the Exposures to 1, Duration to 5, Enable Mirror-lockup should be "Unchecked" and all the rest of the settings below to 0.
- Click "Start Sequence" and wait until it's completed. This basically guarantees the serial port signals are in a known state.
- Set the mutlimeter to measure resistance, some range around 200 to 2000 ohms, whatever is close to that.
- Connect the mutlimeter to the sleeve and tip. What does the resiatance read? (if any)
- Now click "Start Sequence" and see what the resistance shows before the sequence is complete.
If the cable is functioning properly the resistance should be very high when DSLR shutter is idle and somewhere between, say 10 to 100 ohms, when its operating the shutter. If its not we'll need to get at the components and wires inside to test and fix the problem.
Steve
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Kurly
member
Reged: 11/02/07
Posts: 70
Loc: Rockwood, Ontario, Canada
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Hi Steve,
I finally got around to trying out the test you outlined. Hooked everything up and fired up DSLR Shutter. I selected COM 1. Actually, I tried all of them, all rejected by DSLRSH except for COM 1 & 3, I stuck to COM 1. I got a high negative reading around -170 with the multimeter set at 200 ohms and that's all I got, regardless of where DSLRSH was in the routine. I got no reading, of course, if I disconnected the serial cable and tried the tip & the sleave.
Once again, I'm at a loss. Got another test for me? 
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cdndob
professor emeritus
Reged: 07/28/06
Posts: 658
Loc: The Great White North
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Hey Kurly,
Is there any way to open the unit up to see the circuitry inside, maybe even get a picture of it? This might get things going faster to see what we're dealing with, might even be able to see the problem.
Steve
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Kurly
member
Reged: 11/02/07
Posts: 70
Loc: Rockwood, Ontario, Canada
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I was actually thinking of doing just that last night. The serial port end of the cable looks like it's got a very clever cover design, I'm not quite sure just where to poke a little screwdriver to pry it open, but I'll play with it a bit and see if I can get a look inside.
I'm seriously leaning towards this being a cable issue - the camera and the serial port seem to be fine. When it's all plugged up, the shutter opens (and stays open) the moment I select COM 1 with DSLR Shutter.
Maybe I should just send it back to Hap and ask him for another. I guess that's what I'll do if I can't pop it open.
If I can, I'll take a picture and attach it here.
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Kurly
member
Reged: 11/02/07
Posts: 70
Loc: Rockwood, Ontario, Canada
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So it turned out that the cable wasn't the problem, I was. I was using the wrong cable - I have no idea where it came from or what it's for, but it sure isn't for a 300D! It's just a cable with a stereo jack at one end and a serial port at the other. Could have fooled me. And it did.
After rummaging through the office at length, I found a parallel port cable - yes, the one I got from Hap Griffin - and of course, it worked like a charm on the first try.
Then my laptop had a stroke.
And my R.A. stopped functioning on my NexStar C11.
And my backup laptop refused to boot up.
Would you believe that was Friday 13th?
I stopped there - while my camera was still working. I seemed to have a very adverse effect on any electronics I wanted to operate that night.
If you see Murphy, please tell him he's not welcome back at my place.
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