killerwolf
sage
Reged: 01/10/08
Posts: 295
Loc: British Columbia, Canada
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i picked up a Olympus OM-1 a lil while ago at a yard sale and was wondering if its a good camera for film AP? and if so some pointers cause iam new to using this camera.
Thanks in advance for the help.
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Skywatcher syncscan HEQ5 200mm 1000mm/f
Skywatcher 80mm/400mm short tube
Orion EON 72mm
DSI pro, and Olympus 330
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Greyhoundman
sage
Reged: 11/20/07
Posts: 298
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Excellant camera. There are also lots of good focus screens available for it. The mirror lockup is super good.
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ClownFish
Post Laureate
Reged: 04/26/05
Posts: 6131
Loc: Singapore
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This is arguably the best 35mm SLR camera for astrophotography. Light weight, no battery needed, interchangeable focusing screens, mirror lockup, - it's a PERFECT camera for astrophotography.
CF
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Learn all about Polar Alignment and Manual Guiding on my website at www.PetesAstrophotography.com! Or visit my Foreign Service Blog!
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killerwolf
sage
Reged: 01/10/08
Posts: 295
Loc: British Columbia, Canada
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any guides on how to use this thing it looks complicated. And what would be a good film to start with iso 400?
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Skywatcher syncscan HEQ5 200mm 1000mm/f
Skywatcher 80mm/400mm short tube
Orion EON 72mm
DSI pro, and Olympus 330
Edited by killerwolf (04/15/08 09:17 PM)
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FLNightSky
professor emeritus
Reged: 03/13/06
Posts: 645
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I started using print film, like FujiFilm ISO 400 you get at the camera store. It is cheap, and is easier to find someone who processes it (it is hard to find E-6 processing around here for me). The hardest part was being able to talk to the developer about how I wanted the film processed. After several 1hr places I found a Ritz camera where there was a guy who did a good job developing the film, and even recognised Orion. So yes, you can start with print film, as there is a lot to learn besides snapping the picture and work up to slide film later.
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JBull
sage
Reged: 10/10/05
Posts: 401
Loc: Dallas, TX
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Good luck for you, The OM-1 is a prized camera for film astrophotography. Get a bulb cable to hold the shutter open. Thats really about it. A t-ring to attach it to your scope. Don't worry about the film speed settings when using a scope. Get a good film such as Kodak E200 or Fuji Provia or Sensia. The hardest part is focusing through the scope and camera viewfinder. Look for threads or web pages about hartmann mask.
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Jeff Bullard
Dallas, TX
Check observing forecast for astronomers anywhere in the world:
http://astroforecast.org:8080
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jrw11
professor emeritus
Reged: 06/09/07
Posts: 528
Loc: unknown
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http://billyard.servehttp.com/Hartmann.html
Here is my favorite link on making the Hartman mask that Jeff mentioned.
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Celestron C6n -HD Reflector
dual axis drive motors added
Orion 80mm Short tube refractor
Skyscout
Early 70's Pentax 7x50
Garrett Optical 12x60
Garrett Optical 15x70
Oberwerk 20x80 Standards
Canon Rebel Ti (film)
4 Minolta Srt cameras
Mamiya RB67 Pro-s with 180 lens
127mm KL lens for RB, Bellows hood for RB67
Mamiya M645 Pro
Cambo SCII 4x5 view camera
over 50 other film cameras
several eyepieces
too much stuff
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killerwolf
sage
Reged: 01/10/08
Posts: 295
Loc: British Columbia, Canada
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thx for the link ive made one for when i use my DSLR. i picked up some fujifilm but all they had were single 800 iso and a 6 pack of 400 so i grabed the 800 hopfully it wont be to over exposed.
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Skywatcher syncscan HEQ5 200mm 1000mm/f
Skywatcher 80mm/400mm short tube
Orion EON 72mm
DSI pro, and Olympus 330
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ClownFish
Post Laureate
Reged: 04/26/05
Posts: 6131
Loc: Singapore
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Depends on what you are shooting. For DSO's it won't be. 800 ASA may be slower than ASA 400 after 10 minutes of exposure. generaly the faster the film, the slower it is after long exposures!
CF
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Learn all about Polar Alignment and Manual Guiding on my website at www.PetesAstrophotography.com! Or visit my Foreign Service Blog!
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Hambone
sage
Reged: 10/10/05
Posts: 452
Loc: Martin, TN
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Killerwolf, here is a site that has a owners manual for the Olympus OM-1. There is a lot of great info on the camera.Olympus OM-1 Owners Manual
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8" Sky View Pro
60MM Meade (used very little now)
Golden Pond Kentucky
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killerwolf
sage
Reged: 01/10/08
Posts: 295
Loc: British Columbia, Canada
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link is dead 
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Skywatcher syncscan HEQ5 200mm 1000mm/f
Skywatcher 80mm/400mm short tube
Orion EON 72mm
DSI pro, and Olympus 330
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Hambone
sage
Reged: 10/10/05
Posts: 452
Loc: Martin, TN
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OOPS Must have done something wrong? try this one. Olympus OM-1 Manual
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8" Sky View Pro
60MM Meade (used very little now)
Golden Pond Kentucky
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killerwolf
sage
Reged: 01/10/08
Posts: 295
Loc: British Columbia, Canada
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cool thx, also what is this freazing your film all about??
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Skywatcher syncscan HEQ5 200mm 1000mm/f
Skywatcher 80mm/400mm short tube
Orion EON 72mm
DSI pro, and Olympus 330
Edited by killerwolf (04/18/08 01:35 AM)
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jrw11
professor emeritus
Reged: 06/09/07
Posts: 528
Loc: unknown
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Freezing fim makes it last alot longer.
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Celestron C6n -HD Reflector
dual axis drive motors added
Orion 80mm Short tube refractor
Skyscout
Early 70's Pentax 7x50
Garrett Optical 12x60
Garrett Optical 15x70
Oberwerk 20x80 Standards
Canon Rebel Ti (film)
4 Minolta Srt cameras
Mamiya RB67 Pro-s with 180 lens
127mm KL lens for RB, Bellows hood for RB67
Mamiya M645 Pro
Cambo SCII 4x5 view camera
over 50 other film cameras
several eyepieces
too much stuff
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ClownFish
Post Laureate
Reged: 04/26/05
Posts: 6131
Loc: Singapore
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True. But in regards to Astrophotography there's some more history and that gives me a chance to babble this morning!
Back in the day (before 1990) there were not any really good film emulsions off the shelf. They all suffered from very bad reciprocity failure, which meant that the film tended to be less sensitive to faint light the longer the exposure.
To solve that problem, there were two techniques that astrophotographers did:
1. Freeze the film. You turned your camera into a "Cold Camera". This required you to make the camera air-tight and then had to replace the back with a home-built MOD that allowed you place dry-ice up against the film plane. You then pumped all the air out of the camera to prevent fogging and dew. The camera became a one-shot system as you could not wind the frozen film!
2. The second method was easier, and was called Hypering. The goal was to remove all the oxygen molecules from the film emulsion - which in-turn made the film more sensitive to faint light over time. In effect, it reduced the reciprocity failure. This was done by baking the film (low heat) in a bath of hydrogen. The hydrogen attached to the free oxygen and the resulting water vapor was dried out in the heat. The film (even the whole film canister could be done) was placed in a small pressure tank and then all the air was removed. Next, hydrogen (or a mix of H and HE for safety) was pumped in under a little pressure. The whole chamber was then placed in an insulated box (or Ice-Chest) along with a heating element (light bulb) and allowed to make for hours or days. There was even a commercial product by Lumicon that made this easy. Do-it-yourselfers also made chambers that worked very well.
Once treated, you had to use the film within hours. You could pack the film back in its canister along with some desiccant to keep it dry. Then you could keep it in your freezer for a month! But once you open it, it had to all be used within hours and immediately developed for optimum results.
The above two techniques also pretty much meant that all astrophotographers needed their own darkroom or access to one.
With the arrival of Fujichrome 400F Provia (now discontinued) and Kodak E200 - that all changed. These two films were (are) perfect for Astrophotography straight off the shelf.
CF
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Learn all about Polar Alignment and Manual Guiding on my website at www.PetesAstrophotography.com! Or visit my Foreign Service Blog!
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killerwolf
sage
Reged: 01/10/08
Posts: 295
Loc: British Columbia, Canada
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so if i freaze it i was told id still be able to wind it. Is this incorrect then?
--------------------
Skywatcher syncscan HEQ5 200mm 1000mm/f
Skywatcher 80mm/400mm short tube
Orion EON 72mm
DSI pro, and Olympus 330
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TxStars
professor emeritus
Reged: 10/01/05
Posts: 564
Loc: Lost In Space
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Once the film has been removed from the freezer for a half hour or so it works fine..
CF is talking about the old "Cold" cameras that used dry ice to chill the film while you exposed it.
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http://txstars.org/
Tak FC-50 / Tak FCT-65 / Tak FC-100
Celestron 8" Schmidt camera,Sand Cast C-8/C-5
"SCUZZO" 300/f 1.1 , 16"f/7.5
Cameras: Nikon F2/Mamiya 645, press 6x7 ,6x9/ Hasselblad 6x6 / Lenses Yes Many - Yay Film
Mounts - GoTo by hand and eye
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killerwolf
sage
Reged: 01/10/08
Posts: 295
Loc: British Columbia, Canada
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cool i will give it a go. 
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Skywatcher syncscan HEQ5 200mm 1000mm/f
Skywatcher 80mm/400mm short tube
Orion EON 72mm
DSI pro, and Olympus 330
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tommyhawk13
professor emeritus
Reged: 09/28/07
Posts: 739
Loc: Jacksonville, Fl
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Other than the cold camera method Clownfish mentioned, freezing film is a good idea for long term storage.
Professional film is usually the same exact film as store bought film, but it has been kept refrigerated to keep it "fresh"
I could be wrong, but for long exposure astrophotography, the off the shelf consumer grade Kodak E200 is just as good as the professional grade. I think that after a certain time during exposure, that little bit of an extra edge for the "professional" film doesn't matter.
Again, I could be wrong.
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Meade Starfinder 8,Meade SN-8 OTA, Orion Atlas, and a handfull of film cameras
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Nightfly
sage
Reged: 06/20/07
Posts: 481
Loc: Sullivan, Maine
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You raise a good question. Professional film offers more control over aging and tighter control of color balance. This may not apply as critically to astrophotography. I've used E200 and Elite Chrome 200 with no noticeable difference. Any change in color balance can be worked out in photoshop. Hopefully those would be small changes. I've gotten a bad roll of film before and it was not professional. Perhaps it was stored improperly (heat?) The supply chain for pro film is better controlled and not influenced by the local Walmart.
Freezing film will allow you to use the film well past the original expiration date. When E200 is on its way out, I will be filling my freezer, and it will not just be me!
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killerwolf
sage
Reged: 01/10/08
Posts: 295
Loc: British Columbia, Canada
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so what are some good settings for taking photos of globular clusters? and settings for dso?
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Skywatcher syncscan HEQ5 200mm 1000mm/f
Skywatcher 80mm/400mm short tube
Orion EON 72mm
DSI pro, and Olympus 330
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ClownFish
Post Laureate
Reged: 04/26/05
Posts: 6131
Loc: Singapore
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What film and what lens?
Will you be imaging at prime focus (without a lens)?
If so, what the scope's focal ratio?
Gobulars always do better with a stacked set of 2 or 3 shots. One quite short to show the center, and then longer exposures to capture the faint outer details. Then you stack them in photoshop. Otherwise you end up burning out the center.
DSO's need very long exposures, from 30 to 45 minutes at f/4. Much longer if you have a slower system.
CF
--------------------
Learn all about Polar Alignment and Manual Guiding on my website at www.PetesAstrophotography.com! Or visit my Foreign Service Blog!
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killerwolf
sage
Reged: 01/10/08
Posts: 295
Loc: British Columbia, Canada
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be going prime focus, scope is a 1000focal length F5
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Skywatcher syncscan HEQ5 200mm 1000mm/f
Skywatcher 80mm/400mm short tube
Orion EON 72mm
DSI pro, and Olympus 330
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donnie3
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 12/15/04
Posts: 1316
Loc: bartlesville oklahoma
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i have a om1. i have not used it very much here lately. i just purchased a cg-5 mount with dual drive and wont to start wide field shots. would like to know what focus screens people use for this camera. i have the regular screen that came with the camera then later bought a no, 7 screen because i could not find a no, 8 anywhere. any suggestions please. one other thing, whats the best way to focus the camera for wide field. thanks, don
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Jeremy@za
professor emeritus
Reged: 02/28/05
Posts: 704
Loc: Cape Town, South Africa. 33 56...
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I have an OM4 and the only way I've been able to effectively focus it is to pick a bright star, like Rigel or A-Crux, and focus the camera until the blur on the screen is minimized. The OM4 doesn't have interchangable screens unfortunately
J
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Old Dinosaur
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 05/08/07
Posts: 1534
Loc: Out in the sagebrush
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I used the OM1s for years and always liked the 1-12 and 1-9.
Even better than the Beattie Intenscreen.
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JMI NGT 12.5 ser# 21 observatory mounted
coupla truck loads of other stuff
WRS Observatory
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tommyhawk13
professor emeritus
Reged: 09/28/07
Posts: 739
Loc: Jacksonville, Fl
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You can try a Hartmaan mask if you don't have the funds for a Stiletto. Someone posted a nice template program here on the boards.
I shot M37 in the backyard through my 8" f/6 for 7 minutes on Fuji Provia 400X. It could definitely use some more exposure, and keep in mind I am a complete novice.
I used a home made Hartmaan mask, and a cable release, of course.
I also used a 1/14" nosepiece, but I have since bought a 2" for prime focus. I think the 2" will reduce vignetting. The sides of the pic have been cropped for that reason.
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Meade Starfinder 8,Meade SN-8 OTA, Orion Atlas, and a handfull of film cameras
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killerwolf
sage
Reged: 01/10/08
Posts: 295
Loc: British Columbia, Canada
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here it is
http://billyard.servehttp.com/Hartmann.html
--------------------
Skywatcher syncscan HEQ5 200mm 1000mm/f
Skywatcher 80mm/400mm short tube
Orion EON 72mm
DSI pro, and Olympus 330
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donnie3
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 12/15/04
Posts: 1316
Loc: bartlesville oklahoma
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thanks everyone for the info. don
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jrw11
professor emeritus
Reged: 06/09/07
Posts: 528
Loc: unknown
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That Hartmann mask template program is a 100% 
--------------------
Celestron C6n -HD Reflector
dual axis drive motors added
Orion 80mm Short tube refractor
Skyscout
Early 70's Pentax 7x50
Garrett Optical 12x60
Garrett Optical 15x70
Oberwerk 20x80 Standards
Canon Rebel Ti (film)
4 Minolta Srt cameras
Mamiya RB67 Pro-s with 180 lens
127mm KL lens for RB, Bellows hood for RB67
Mamiya M645 Pro
Cambo SCII 4x5 view camera
over 50 other film cameras
several eyepieces
too much stuff
|
tommyhawk13
professor emeritus
Reged: 09/28/07
Posts: 739
Loc: Jacksonville, Fl
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|
I just jumped on the OM-1 bandwagon. For $50.00 + shipping, I scored an OM-1 md, and it came with a 1.8/50mm lens, a zoom lens, some sort of crystal optics super-wide macro thingy, and a vivitar 283 flash! 
I used to have the 283 flash, until it got stolen.
I also bought a 1-8 focus screen, and I am bidding on a T mount.
Any suggestions for lenses? I'd like to get a wide angle in the 24mm range.
--------------------
Meade Starfinder 8,Meade SN-8 OTA, Orion Atlas, and a handfull of film cameras
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Old Dinosaur
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 05/08/07
Posts: 1534
Loc: Out in the sagebrush
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There's a lot of good OM mount glass around. Zuiko even had an 8mm fish eye and some nice 21 to 28mm lenses. Buying a lens sight unseen could be chancy though, unless there's an ironclad return policy.
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JMI NGT 12.5 ser# 21 observatory mounted
coupla truck loads of other stuff
WRS Observatory
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huckabuck
professor emeritus
Reged: 02/18/07
Posts: 529
Loc: statesboro, ga
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hello tommyhawk,
the zuiko 50mm 1:1.4 is a great ap lens if stopped down 1 or two stops. also the 135mm 1:2.8 is probably the best you can buy in the zuiko series. no need to stop it down at all(although i usually do) and the 200mm 1:4 works well stopped down
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Old Dinosaur
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 05/08/07
Posts: 1534
Loc: Out in the sagebrush
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Keep in mind too, if you do find a few nice Zuiko or other OM system lenses and decide to get an Oly DSLR, those lenses will mount right up with an adapter ring. Manual only of course.
Main reason I stayed with Oly, I had so much nice OM glass.
--------------------
JMI NGT 12.5 ser# 21 observatory mounted
coupla truck loads of other stuff
WRS Observatory
|
killerwolf
sage
Reged: 01/10/08
Posts: 295
Loc: British Columbia, Canada
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Quote:
Keep in mind too, if you do find a few nice Zuiko or other OM system lenses and decide to get an Oly DSLR, those lenses will mount right up with an adapter ring. Manual only of course.
Main reason I stayed with Oly, I had so much nice OM glass.
its what i did i have the evolt 330 and use my 150mm telephoto lens and my 50mm
--------------------
Skywatcher syncscan HEQ5 200mm 1000mm/f
Skywatcher 80mm/400mm short tube
Orion EON 72mm
DSI pro, and Olympus 330
|
palerider
super member
Reged: 06/19/08
Posts: 102
Loc: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
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I have an OM-1n body that I bought new in the 70's and it's been stored in a closet for many years. I also got a pair of Kiron telephoto's for it, a f/2.8 28-85mm and an f/4 85-210mm. After stumbling across this thread I dug it out of the closet and checked it out. Works like a charm. As far as I can tell, it's in pristine condition. No fading, streaking, or discoloration on the mirror or in the viewfinder. Since many think this is one of the best film cameras for AP, I thought I would give it a try. So I have two questions:
1. Can I use either of the telephoto lenses or should I just attach the body to my focuser with a T-Ring? I didn't get the orginal 50mm, 1.4 lens, but I know where I can get one in excellent condition. Would it be worthwhile to invest in the 50mm?
2. Does anyone know where I can get a 1-8 focusing screen? I've done a Google search with no luck. Obviously they are hard to come by.
Thanks.
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Daniel B. Milliken Planetarium
@ Chaffey College in Rancho Cucamonga, CA
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Nightfly
sage
Reged: 06/20/07
Posts: 481
Loc: Sullivan, Maine
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Palerider,
What an excellent find. Although the telephotos are not recommended as much as prime lenses, why not use what you have and give it a try?
Since the camera has been sitting around for awhile it would be a good idea to have it services, that's up to you.
A t-ring is an inexspensive accessory and is the prefered mounting method for scopes.
Excellent used lenses can be found cheap on eBay.
Good luck.
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Nightfly Astrophotography
Sullivan, Maine, USA
http://www.fluidr.com/photos/12598495@N08
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huckabuck
professor emeritus
Reged: 02/18/07
Posts: 529
Loc: statesboro, ga
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Palerider,
i would suggest starting with some wide-field work. the frustration factor is much smaller than prime focus.
as far as telephoto lens go they are not generally the best for ap. they have too much glass in the light path.
a 50mm lens is a good lense to start with. but if you can get a 1:8 it is a better lense for ap than a 1:4
--------------------
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palerider
super member
Reged: 06/19/08
Posts: 102
Loc: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
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Yeah, I pretty much figured that was the case with the telephotos. Good point about starting out with wide-field too. I've been doing a lot of reading and prime focus doesn't seem like the place for a beginner to start. Looks like I'll be hunting for a 50mm lens now. Just curious about a 1.8 vs. a 1.4. I would have thought the faster lens would be better. Hey, but that's why I ask the experts.
Thanks to you both for your suggestions.
--------------------
Daniel B. Milliken Planetarium
@ Chaffey College in Rancho Cucamonga, CA
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huckabuck
professor emeritus
Reged: 02/18/07
Posts: 529
Loc: statesboro, ga
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i'm not an expert. i just pass on what i've read and learned. the faster lens usually is the better lens but.... for some reason the faster 50mm's produce bloated stars at the edges. the 1:8 will to but not as bad. closing the f-stop down 1 or 2 steps will help.
also the zuiko 135mm lense is probably one of the best you can use (also stopped down) and you can pick them up cheap on ebay
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Nightfly
sage
Reged: 06/20/07
Posts: 481
Loc: Sullivan, Maine
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No matter what 50mm lens, try at f/2.8 and expose 20 minutes if your sky is dark enough. You'll like the results.
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Nightfly Astrophotography
Sullivan, Maine, USA
http://www.fluidr.com/photos/12598495@N08
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TxStars
professor emeritus
Reged: 10/01/05
Posts: 564
Loc: Lost In Space
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Ahh yes a 50mm at 2.8 is a good way to test your sky.
Shoot 10m / 15m / 20m on E-200 and look at the results.
When you start to see a green tint to the back ground you have exposed too long. Then you can adjust down from there.
--------------------
http://txstars.org/
Tak FC-50 / Tak FCT-65 / Tak FC-100
Celestron 8" Schmidt camera,Sand Cast C-8/C-5
"SCUZZO" 300/f 1.1 , 16"f/7.5
Cameras: Nikon F2/Mamiya 645, press 6x7 ,6x9/ Hasselblad 6x6 / Lenses Yes Many - Yay Film
Mounts - GoTo by hand and eye
|
palerider
super member
Reged: 06/19/08
Posts: 102
Loc: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
|
|
Thanks for all the tips. I just scored a Zuiko 50mm f/1.8 lens in pristine condition on eBay. Should be here in a day or two! On my way to the store for a roll or two of E200 film. Now I'm psyched!
--------------------
Daniel B. Milliken Planetarium
@ Chaffey College in Rancho Cucamonga, CA
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palerider
super member
Reged: 06/19/08
Posts: 102
Loc: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
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Oh, one more thing. First attempt will be wide field on a sturdy tripod. I assume I set focus to infinity?
--------------------
Daniel B. Milliken Planetarium
@ Chaffey College in Rancho Cucamonga, CA
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tommyhawk13
professor emeritus
Reged: 09/28/07
Posts: 739
Loc: Jacksonville, Fl
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Yes to the infinity question. Are you going for star-trails?
You can aim at Polaris, and stop the lens down to about f/8 and extend your exposure times. Only the brightest stars will show up, though.
--------------------
Meade Starfinder 8,Meade SN-8 OTA, Orion Atlas, and a handfull of film cameras
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Nightfly
sage
Reged: 06/20/07
Posts: 481
Loc: Sullivan, Maine
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If you can find it, use Provia 100F for long exposure star trails. Very good results! Like Tommyhawk said, stop down to f/8. Use f/5.6 for an hour or less. I'm assuming little light pollution though.
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Nightfly Astrophotography
Sullivan, Maine, USA
http://www.fluidr.com/photos/12598495@N08
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