ClownFish
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Reged: 04/26/05
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Loc: Islamabad, Pakistan
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Hey folks, a lot of beginners have not been using the best film for this hobby, and then getting frustrated by the poor results. Do not think that you need high speed (800 ASA) or better film. These speeds are designed for shutter speeds of 2 seconds or less, and have little correlation during long exposures. They also have very large film grain, which makes for poor enlargements.
You need a film with several properties.
1. Small grain. This makes your images sharp, and allows nice enlargements.
2. Excellent RED response. While there are a lot of blue and some green objects in the sky, RED is the one that is most common, and also easily lost with a poor choice of film. This is because the RED spectrum is near the end of the film's sensitivity and film makers often chop it off as unnecessary. They do not care that most of your subjects glow in the deep reds of Hydrogen Alpha. Some films do not even record this all-important spectrum at all! So you need a film that has good blue and green, but also very good response with REDS.
3. Limited Reciprocity Failure. When you shoot a normal object in daylight, if you decrease the amount of light coming in to the camera you can increase the exposure time to compensate. This is reciprocity. However, at long exposures, film tends to FAIL in this regard. This means that if a subject is very dim, a MUCH longer exposure is required to capture it. It also means that what you see in a 10 minute exposure may not be much different than in a 20! On the other hand, if you use a film with LOW reciprocity failure, you will be able to expose longer, AND capture more.
So which films are best?
First I recommend slide film. This requires the least amount of control by an unknowledgeable developer. But more importantly, there just are not many excellent color print films out there. Most have very poor blue and red response in the important wavelengths needed for astrophotography. There are a few color print films that will work, but they are very hard to locate, and require you to HYPERSENSITIZE them by baking them in forming gas (an advanced technique to reduce the reciprocity failure).
My recommendations:
- Kodak Elite Chrome 200 (E200). This film has amazing red response, way down to the Hydrogen Alpha line and produces deep cherry red nebula. It's also very fine grain, and has very low RF. It does suffer slightly in blue response.
- Fujichrome 400F Provia (or Fujichrome Sensia II 400). These have very good color response in blue and red! It also has fine grain, not as fine as E200, but very good. The film also has low RF and can capture below magnitude 18 in 25 minutes at f/4. This is my all-time favorite film.
The best way to stay on top of the changing world of astrophotography films, subscribe to the Astrophotography Mailing List Archives.
Clear Sky to yah!
CF
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Keep it simple, keep it cheap! Meade LXD75 SN8, Orion Guidescope, Olympus OM-1 and STI Stiletto. Celestron 15x70 Binos and SkyWindow. Learn all about POLAR ALIGNMENT with my Drift Method Tutorial and simulator!!
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Kieken
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Reged: 10/03/04
Posts: 235
Loc: Kapellen, Belgium
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For the moment I use Fujifilm Superia 800 X-tra but the next time I pay a visit at the local shop I think I'll ask for one of the films you mentioned .
-------------------- WO Megrez 110 ED on Vixen Sphinx
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Edited by Kieken (12/11/05 06:09 AM)
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Snow dog
Carpal Tunnel
   
Reged: 07/17/05
Posts: 1716
Loc: Alberta Canada
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Thanks for the info CF.
-------------------- Marc
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CharlieInDayton
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Reged: 12/28/05
Posts: 75
Loc: Directly above Earth's center....
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Dear Clown (it feels so odd to be addressing someone like that)...may I call you CF?
While I've got a little time and even one award for astrophotography under my belt (and that award was pure luck, lemme tell ya), I never pass up a chance to pick someone's brain.
Camera -- Pentax K 1000 Lens -- could be one of many, depending on how adventurous/inventive I'm feeling Current films of choice -- at this point, I've been concentrating mostly on just getting a decent image, so it's been off-the-rack drugstore stuff...mostly Walgreen's 400 color print film (which I am fairly sure is just store-name Fuji). My developing is done at a one-hour photo place south of town, where the machine operator has been trained by some of the Cincinnati boys in how to properly develop astrophotographs -- don't cut the negatives, proper color balance to get a real night sky color, etc.
1) For the moment, I'm just going to stay with the print film until I get closer to where I want. 2) Film speed recommendations? I've been using 400, but 200 and 100 are just as easily available, and my developer has no trouble with them. 3) Can slide films be developed at these one-hour places? I wouldn't need 'em printed, I can have the guy make me hi-res CDs of the images without spending too much money. 4) I don't have the gear for really long time exposures, but I do have a motor-drive tripod that everyone around here says I could get 3 to 4 minutes out of before things start to trail. That's next summer's project -- right now, I'm going for some lunar photos with lenses/scopes that wouldn't require tracking -- in my neck of the woods, I can get away with up to 30 seconds exposure of ecliptic stars before things start to trail.
An example of my 400 speed work can be found here -- please note the Moon shot. A tripod mount for steadiness, a little more focus work, some experimentation with exposures... What might I expect by changing film speeds? And I have a couple of sample books from makers of theatrical spotlight filters (these sample books are maybe 1 1/2" x 3" x hundreds of 'pages' thick -- I have what seems to be every shade and density made to play with. Any recommendations on start points for color etc?
I can easily blow off a few rolls of film just to see what happens -- and yes, I do keep a logbook of everything like this that I shoot.
So...any and all tips you can throw my way on this would be greatly appreciated.
-------------------- It doesn't matter what you're looking at.
It doesn't matter what you're looking through.
It never looks like the pictures...
Charlie in Dayton
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JBull
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Reged: 10/10/05
Posts: 401
Loc: Dallas, TX
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I chose Fuji Superia Xtra 800 film based on a film test I read on the web. 19 different color negative films were tested. The Fuji Superia Xtra 800 had the best red response (650 and 660 nm) and lowest reciprocity failure of all the films tested for astrophotography. The test results are at http://www.robertreeves.com/colneg.htm However I have learned that Fuji has changed their emulsion for this film and greatly reduced the red response at the desired wavelength. It seems like the film emulsions change frequently and usually for the worse. Next roll of film I get will be Kodak E200.
-------------------- Jeff Bullard
Dallas, TX
Check observing forecast for astronomers anywhere in the world:
http://astroforecast.org:8080
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JBull
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Reged: 10/10/05
Posts: 401
Loc: Dallas, TX
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Here are the responses of various films at the Hydrogen alpha wavelength of 656nm which is very important for astrophotography. As posted by Clownfish the Kodak E200 slide film has excellent qualities. I put this together from various film spec sheets. The red line in each represents 656nm. I could not find a spec sheet for Kodak royal gold.
-------------------- Jeff Bullard
Dallas, TX
Check observing forecast for astronomers anywhere in the world:
http://astroforecast.org:8080
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Big Dipper
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Reged: 07/24/05
Posts: 73
Loc: Oxford, England, UK
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I fully agree with CF's comments. E200 has been the leading film of choice for astrophotography for several years now. One of the leading APML leaders, Jerry Lodriguss, has a page on the best films for astrophotography. You may wish to check it out at http://www.astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/I04/I04.HTM
-------------------- Keep Looking Up!
Andy
Skype bigdipperandy
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giorgosgr
super member
Reged: 03/11/05
Posts: 121
Loc: Kalamata Greece
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Fuji Superia 1600 isn't bad at all!
Fast, small grain, and good red sensitivity.I have taken nice piggybacks with it.It records red nebulae quite well!
-------------------- Homemade 8" f/4.5 dob
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ClownFish
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Reged: 04/26/05
Posts: 5547
Loc: Islamabad, Pakistan
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Small grain? How does it compare with E200 or 400F Provia?
--------------------
Keep it simple, keep it cheap! Meade LXD75 SN8, Orion Guidescope, Olympus OM-1 and STI Stiletto. Celestron 15x70 Binos and SkyWindow. Learn all about POLAR ALIGNMENT with my Drift Method Tutorial and simulator!!
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giorgosgr
super member
Reged: 03/11/05
Posts: 121
Loc: Kalamata Greece
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Bigger grain of course,but very good for a 1600 ASA film.It's also easier to find (at least in this country!) and cheaper.It deserves a try IMHO.I wonder why this film has been neglected by astrophotographers.
You can see one of my piggybacks here:
http://www.cloudynights.com/ubbthreads/attachments/545642-north_america1.jpg
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pietruck
sage
   
Reged: 12/13/05
Posts: 262
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Can you shoot the moon in black and white?
Because I have 30 some odd rolls of it in my freezer.
Thanks
Ryan
-------------------- Orion 12.5 f/4.8 Deep Space Explorer
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TxStars
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Reged: 10/01/05
Posts: 409
Loc: Lost In Space
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You have 30 rolls of which film in the freezer?
Tec-Pan 2415 *Now discontinued* was a great film for the moon... Many other B&W films work well for the moon...
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Tak FC-50
Tak FCT-65
Tak FC-100
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ClownFish
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Reged: 04/26/05
Posts: 5547
Loc: Islamabad, Pakistan
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Tech-Pan 2415 was not just for the moon... It was, and is, one of the best films for Hydrogen Alpha shots - but required "hyping" to shorten exposures. If you have rolls of 2415 in the freezer, you can sell it pretty easy on-line. It's now out-of-production.
CF
--------------------
Keep it simple, keep it cheap! Meade LXD75 SN8, Orion Guidescope, Olympus OM-1 and STI Stiletto. Celestron 15x70 Binos and SkyWindow. Learn all about POLAR ALIGNMENT with my Drift Method Tutorial and simulator!!
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pietruck
sage
   
Reged: 12/13/05
Posts: 262
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Just plain old T-max 400.
Is that suitable?
Thanks
Ryan
-------------------- Orion 12.5 f/4.8 Deep Space Explorer
Coulter 10.1 f/4.5 Odyssey Compact (Red)
Celestron Ultima C-11
Celestron Orange Tube C-8
Bausch & Lomb 8X35 Zephyr Binoculars
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ClownFish
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Reged: 04/26/05
Posts: 5547
Loc: Islamabad, Pakistan
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That's not very good for deep sky stuff (no Ha response), better for moon like you said.
--------------------
Keep it simple, keep it cheap! Meade LXD75 SN8, Orion Guidescope, Olympus OM-1 and STI Stiletto. Celestron 15x70 Binos and SkyWindow. Learn all about POLAR ALIGNMENT with my Drift Method Tutorial and simulator!!
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dereeves
member
Reged: 02/11/06
Posts: 95
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What is a good film for Solar pics?
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ClownFish
Post Laureate
   
Reged: 04/26/05
Posts: 5547
Loc: Islamabad, Pakistan
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Just about anything will work... but the finer the grain the better. This usually means the slower films.
CF
--------------------
Keep it simple, keep it cheap! Meade LXD75 SN8, Orion Guidescope, Olympus OM-1 and STI Stiletto. Celestron 15x70 Binos and SkyWindow. Learn all about POLAR ALIGNMENT with my Drift Method Tutorial and simulator!!
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dereeves
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Reged: 02/11/06
Posts: 95
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thank you clownfish.
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LT_Ng
member
Reged: 12/07/03
Posts: 86
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I am also a fan of astrophotography with films, but so sad that films are "dying out"!
Would like to share you with my experience too.
1. For clusters or galaxies, may choose Fuji Superia 400 or 800 press. Superia series has very good contrast performance and also finer grain than others of same speed.
2. For comets, Kodak E200 or Fuji Provia 400F
3. For star field, E200 or E100, if you can find it.
4. For Ha emission nebulae, E200.
Clear skies,
LT
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Jerry J
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Reged: 05/12/06
Posts: 329
Loc: Salem, MO
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I recently used the Sensia 200 slide film and was experimenting with some filters for the heck of it. What i got back was great, it had awsome response to Ha. I'm still not sure how sensitive it is to the violet end of the spectrum but I'm very happy with the red response. The last roll I used was the Provia 400f, as soon as I return home and go thru the slides I may just post a few, if some turned out like I hope. Jerry
-------------------- a couple of telescopes,
some cameras,
some accessories...
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microbes
Pooh-Bah
   
Reged: 12/12/04
Posts: 1192
Loc: Romulus, Sector 12
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Quote:
Fuji Superia 1600 isn't bad at all!
Where are you buying it? My local Walmart carries the Superia 400 and 800 and I would like to at least try the 1600 but I can't find it anywhere local. (I can't find slide film locally either).
I do live in a backwoods part of Florida, I'm sure that if I wanted to make a trip to tampa everytime I bought film I could find it. But driving 75 miles each way to buy film seems a bit much. Are you mail ordering it?
(I'm glad to see other people recommending Superia, it may not be as sweet as some slide films, but it seems to be as good a print film as you can get)
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Dirt Cheap Astronomy
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JackProton
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Reged: 03/01/06
Posts: 314
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Quote:
Quote:
Fuji Superia 1600 isn't bad at all!
Where are you buying it? My local Walmart carries the Superia 400 and 800 and I would like to at least try the 1600 but I can't find it anywhere local. (I can't find slide film locally either).
I do live in a backwoods part of Florida, I'm sure that if I wanted to make a trip to tampa everytime I bought film I could find it. But driving 75 miles each way to buy film seems a bit much. Are you mail ordering it?
I picked some up on Amazon.com and www.bhphotovideo.com. My local camera shop also carries it (and they'll order stuff they don't stock for you if you ask). Haven't seen it at Target or CVS.
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microbes
Pooh-Bah
   
Reged: 12/12/04
Posts: 1192
Loc: Romulus, Sector 12
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Quote:
www.bhphotovideo.com.
I should have thought about them. I just ordered a lens adaptor from them. They have about anything you want for a film camera.
They are a little high on the price of the Superia 800, I've been buying that at walmart for about $8.50 for 4 rolls, they get $4 a roll + s&h.
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Dirt Cheap Astronomy
Voyager 114X900 Newt EQ2 * Sky Chief 60X700 EQ1 * Cometron 62X300 EQ1
Sears Ultra Wide 7X50 Binos * Vintage 16X50 Binos EQ1
Books, Barlows, Eyepieces, Camera Adaptors & Other Esoteric Junk.
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JackProton
sage
Reged: 03/01/06
Posts: 314
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Quote:
Quote:
www.bhphotovideo.com.
I should have thought about them. I just ordered a lens adaptor from them. They have about anything you want for a film camera.
They are a little high on the price of the Superia 800, I've been buying that at walmart for about $8.50 for 4 rolls, they get $4 a roll + s&h.
That's not just B&H -- the price of boxed single rolls of anything is pretty much always much higher than in the consumer 3/4/5 packs of film. I did a quick search and single rolls of Superia 800 are going for a minimum of $3.76+shipping across the web (discounting the fly-by-night shops).
Superia 1600 seems to typically go for roughly $5 a roll on the web and doesn't come in multipacks. I think I paid about $6 for it at a physical Ritz Camera shop.
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Jerry J
sage
Reged: 05/12/06
Posts: 329
Loc: Salem, MO
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www.adorama.com
They have just about every type of film there and the prices are not too bad, heck of a lot cheaper than most photo shops.
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ClownFish
Post Laureate
   
Reged: 04/26/05
Posts: 5547
Loc: Islamabad, Pakistan
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Fact: The variety of films is going down. As film companies cut back and divert more funds to digital imaging, they must reduce or even eliminate films. Konica will stop all film production by March 2007, which will remove a very good color film for astrophotography. While film may not disappear completely, the variety will definitely diminish. The film astrophotographer will have to choose new films to use, so you should learn what makes one film better than another. While nothing beats a real world experiment, you can gain a lot of insight by reading the SPECTRAL CURVE CHARTS that each film manufacturer publishes.
Film is created in layers, and each layer is sensitive to range of the light spectrum. By comparing the sensitivities of these layers you can avoid a film that will be difficult to capture good astro photos.
First you want a film that has pretty even response among all the color layers. Second, you want a film that has strong sensitivity in the very faint, but all-important Hydrogen Alpha line, which is at 653nm. If the film's sensitivity drops off at that point, you will notice that the film cannot record most of the red emission nebula in the Cosmos. If you trying to capture an object that has a lot of blue, such as the blue reflection nebulas in the Pleiades (m45) or the Trifid nebula (M20), then you may want a film with slightly more blue sensitivity.
Here is a chart that the spectral sensitivity of 4 films. Note how the curves on the top two films almost peak at the hydrogen Alpha (Ha) line. These films will record faint red emission nebula very well. Also, note how these two films have a slightly higher blue response, another plus when capturing blue reflection nebula such as the Trifid nebula or the Orion nebula complex.
These charts also show why the popular over-the-counter film Kodak Max 400 and Fuji Superia 400 are poor for recording red nebula. Their sensitivity near the 656nm line is low, and the Kodak Max 400 drops off almost completely!
While sensitivity will help you choose a film, you also must be aware of how much RECIPROCITY FAILURE a film has. As discussed earlier in this thread, reciprocity failure is where a film's sensitivity drops dramatically during an exposure. Worse yet, many films have different reciprocity failure for each color level. This means that while the sensitivity to red may go down a lot, the yellow and blue may not drop as fast. This mans you end up with an overall green image. Not good! The only way to know how well a film does in this regard to test them. There are no charts produced by the film companies to show this well. Some astrophotographers have made some charts, but they are now outdated. If you want a project to make a lot of your peers happy - build a light-box to do a controlled study and post it here!
CF
--------------------
Keep it simple, keep it cheap! Meade LXD75 SN8, Orion Guidescope, Olympus OM-1 and STI Stiletto. Celestron 15x70 Binos and SkyWindow. Learn all about POLAR ALIGNMENT with my Drift Method Tutorial and simulator!!
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ClownFish
Post Laureate
   
Reged: 04/26/05
Posts: 5547
Loc: Islamabad, Pakistan
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This looks like a good place to show the fantastic blue and red sensitivity of Fujichrome 400F. This is a COMPLETELY UNTOUCHED image taken with Fuji 400F Provia. There is no post processing of any kind. I simply developed the slide and had it scanned by the developer. It's a SINGLE, uncropped, 30 minute exposure at f/4 with the Meade SN8 and manualy guided.
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Keep it simple, keep it cheap! Meade LXD75 SN8, Orion Guidescope, Olympus OM-1 and STI Stiletto. Celestron 15x70 Binos and SkyWindow. Learn all about POLAR ALIGNMENT with my Drift Method Tutorial and simulator!!
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Mopman
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Reged: 10/14/06
Posts: 282
Loc: Richland, WA, USA
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Anyone have luck with ELITE Chrome 400? Thanks, Gary
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Suk Lee
Post Laureate
   
Reged: 10/07/03
Posts: 4314
Loc: Pleasanton, CA
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Elite Chrome 400 has worse blue response than Elite Chrome 200 - I'd personally stick with the 200.
Cheers, Suk
-------------------- http://www.siliconvalleyskies.com
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Mopman
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Reged: 10/14/06
Posts: 282
Loc: Richland, WA, USA
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