Joad
Wordsmith
Reged: 03/22/05
Posts: 11919
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Post here if you have any tips for tuning/tweaking a Meade RCX400 scope. If you have already posted such a tip, you can paste it into this thread as well. We're here to help.
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LLEEGE
Running out of Oxygen
Reged: 03/03/05
Posts: 6848
Loc: Cloud-chester,NY
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I would recommend to any RCX owner, either replace the stock handles with the "Peterson Get a Grips" or at least mod them with this . The RCX is heavy, and every bit of help, well, helps! 
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AP900,LXD75
AP140EDF, TSA102, ZS80EDII
SN6-OTA, C8-OTA
Canon 20D, 350Hutech
PST, Lunt LD60T/DS (on order)
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Nick Cook
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 01/28/06
Posts: 1035
Loc: Somerset, England
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A frequent question is which reducer will work with the flat field of the RCX (this also applies to the R scope). An excellent match is the one from Astro Physics, but you'll need the various adapters listed below.
One advantage of the AP adapter is that it opens up the 1.5" light path of the standard Meade one, to 2.7" (an alternative would be to buy an EyeOpener). This is important for both visual and imaging work. For visual you'll get a noticeably brighter views and for imaging you'll be able to fill much larger CCD chips with less vignetting.
Note the use of an adaptive optics unit in my rig. This gives amazing results with a standard RCX mount. I can easily get pin sharp stars of 30 minute duration using one of these with a RCX.
You should also be aware that this setup just swings through the fork mount with a couple of inches to spare.
Nick
Edited by Nick Cook (01/10/08 02:58 AM)
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Nick Cook
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 01/28/06
Posts: 1035
Loc: Somerset, England
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My various tips, particularly if you're thinking about imaging:
(1) First and foremost get the scope properly balanced with a 3D weight system. You will need it slightly out of balance in RA to properly engage the worm gear.
http://astro.premcom.com/ADM/ADM%20Products/MDS-CW.htm
(2) For a permanent mount on a wedge and pier you need to have excellent polar alignment. I use WCS to help with this.
http://wcs.ruthner.at/index-en.php
(3) Train the PEC to perfection using Pempro.
http://www.ccdware.com/products/Pempro/
(4) Train the Smart Mount (makes all the difference in good GoTos).
That's the prep out of the way. Now as it stands the mount trained will be getting you close, but not close enough for really long exposures. You can't expect it to compete directly with a high quality GEM mount.
However, as mentioned above, with an adaptive optics unit everything changes. I can do 30 minute exposures with pin point accuracy. See here:
http://www.cloudynights.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/1611443/page/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1/vc/1
To summarise you can get the RCX to perform brilliantly. Just go into it with your eyes open.
Regards,
Nick
--------------------
Meade 14" RCX + Astro Physics 0.75 Reducer (27TVPH)
Meade 5000 ED80 APO (Guider/widefield)+ WO 0.8 Reducer
William Optics Zenithstar 66 Petzal
SBig STL11000M + AO-L + 3" Pyxis Rotator + 3" PDF Focuser 
Canon 20Da + IDAS Filter
Pulsar 9ft Dome
www.nick-cook.net
Edited by Nick Cook (01/10/08 03:00 AM)
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Crims
sage
Reged: 04/04/06
Posts: 287
Loc: ijmuiden/holland
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Why only RCX?
kindly regards Erwin Kats.
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Losmandy G-11.
8'' LX90
Stellarvue 102mm ED APO
WO ZS 80 ED II
1D 1+² + 350D 1+² Lenses
LPI
alot of other stuff
www.astro-land.net ( including planetary webcam )
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Joad
Wordsmith
Reged: 03/22/05
Posts: 11919
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I'm honoring a specific request from the members for a "stickied" RCX tuneup thread. It makes sense because the RCX is a rather unique scope with unique strengths but also some pesky, er, challenges.
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Pess
(Title)
Reged: 09/12/07
Posts: 1910
Loc: Toledo, Ohio
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(re-post)
I think the EZ-clutch upgrade was the best after-market modification I have made so far. However, Joesph has pointed out some valid possible negatives to it.
The EZ clutch works by sandwiching a cork washer between the declination gear and the clutch plate behind it. The cork is only 1/16" thick but it does displace the dec gear 1/16" laterally relative to the worm gear that sits below it and drives it.
It has been noted that the declination gear/worm gear alignment has a wide variation in regards to tolerance from the factory. If the declination gear sits directly centered over the worm gear or if the declination gear sits positioned towards the inner aspect of the worm gear then there exists enough play to accommodate the cork washer.
However, if the declination gear sits on the outer portion of the worm gear then when you insert the cork washer you will 'push out' the declination gear just enough that it will only barely engage the worm gear resulting in improper loading and possible stripping or slipping of the declination gear against the worm gear.
It would therefore behoove one to remove the declination cover (that's the side with th manual dec adjustment knob) and do an inspection of the worm/declination gear engagement prior to ordering the EZ-clutch kit.
Note that the kit can still be installed in cases of adverse alignment but it requires some relatively major attachment bolt loosening and movement of the worm gear to a more appropriate engagement position. Definitely a more involved procedure that involves close support with Petersen Engineering (not a procedure they include with the kit but requires a call to them to figure out best approach and this is noted in the instructions.)
It is also (in my opinion) a good idea to swap out as much petroleum based grease for synthetic grease as you can during the upgrade especially if you intend to operate in cold weather. Petroleum based grease has paraffin wax as a natural part of it and this wax tends to solidify in cold weather.
Pesse (The object is to spend more time looking through it then in it.) mist
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Pess
(Title)
Reged: 09/12/07
Posts: 1910
Loc: Toledo, Ohio
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(repost)
The (RCX400) scope is a magnificent, albeit complicated, beast. I'm glad you don't have to become familiar with it in the bitter cold up north we have.
Couple of quick reference things about your RCX:
1) If you use a 120v/12v power supply make sure it is at least 5amps. Idiot me used a 3amp and experienced motor stalls and power resets.
2) The RCX electrical connectors seems to really, really hate shipping. If you experience electrical board failures such as can't find north, GPS failure, Tripod tilt failure--stuff along those lines--before sending it back open up the sides and remove and clean with isopropyl alcohol all the connectors. Reinstall and make sure they are tightly inserted.
3) Balance is critical. Check up on how to measure balance in both the horizontal and vertical planes. Then don't forget to recheck after every change. I had perfect balance on mine at first then over several months of incremental changes I failed to recheck the vertical balance. Good way to wear out motors.
4) You'll almost certainly desire a focal reducer at some point. Before purchasing one read the RCX forums extensively. The RCX has a very flat field and requires a focal reducer without field correction (So a typical one marked for SCT use doesn't work well). I know, I found this out belatedly.
Good luck. I gave you the short list that I wish I had when I first got my 12" RCX.
Once you get your RCX scope up and running you'll find it performs like a Superhero!
Pesse (SpiderScope, Spiderscope. Does whatever a Spiderscope can..) Mist
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Pess
(Title)
Reged: 09/12/07
Posts: 1910
Loc: Toledo, Ohio
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If you experience motor stalls and power resets here is a troubleshooting list:
1) Cold can impact battery power and also cause decreased power output from 120v/12v power supplies. Test by replacing with fresh batteries or alternate power supply. Check if same problem occurs while the scope is warm.
2) Weight balance. The motors will stall and power will reset if the motors have to strain against improper weight. The scope MUST be balanced in both the horizontal plane AND the vertical plane. The RCX requires a 3D weight counterbalance system. For Horizontal balance slide the weights fore & aft with the tube horizontal. For Vertical balance the weights need to be screwed away from the tube with the tube in the Vertical position.
3) Proper power supply. The RCX400 model requires a power supply of a MINIMUM of 5amps. This was spelled out by Meade in a service bulletin. Less than 5amps can cause all sorts of erratic behavior and may damage the electronics. Erratic behavior can be, but is not limited to, slewing to the stops, power resets, motor stall, focus motor lock-up, dec/atz motor runaway etc.
4) One should probably not bother with attempting to use the internal 'C' batteries to power the scope except for testing purposes and very limited use. The internal batteries run down very quickly.
Pesse (I have a runaway slew...how do I get my RCX pic on a milk carton?) Mist
Edited by Joad (01/09/08 03:08 PM)
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Pess
(Title)
Reged: 09/12/07
Posts: 1910
Loc: Toledo, Ohio
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The Autostar II hand controller is reported to be very sensitive to cold temperatures.
1) Around the freezing mark the first symptom is a fast scrolling display or digital gibberish in the display. The display can also go completely blank.
2) Some have reported their ASII controller will lock-up and display UPLOADING MODE on the screen. First try just turing off the scope, waiting a few minutes, then turning it back on. If that doesn't fix the problem then you need to power off the scope and back on while pressing the key "9-9-9" while the scope is powering up. This will then allow
the scope to enter default upload mode and allow your computer to connect with the Autostar Uploader program. You can then upload v2.2i or later to get the hand box working again. CAUTION: Uploading the firmware in this manner is EXTREMELY slow and will take a couple hours. You will need to have a 120v/12v adapter or brand new alkaline batteries for the upload so the scope does not lose power! Also your computer must not be allowed to enter Sleep Mode while uploading or that will interrupt the transfer!
Solutions to the cold problem include keeping the ASII Hand controller inside and hot-plugging it into the cold scope base just prior to use. You may also purchase a ASII hand controller cover from ScopeStuff. Using a small hand warmer is also possible or small dew heater wrapped around the ASII.
Someone posted that the IC chips in the ASII hand controller can be upgraded to a set that is not impacted by the cold. I do not have the link as of yet.
Pesse (Nothing worse than a finicky scope at 10 below zero.) Mist
Edited by Joad (01/09/08 03:09 PM)
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Frankv
I'm going to hide
Reged: 12/08/05
Posts: 731
Loc: W. Michigan & Twin Cities MN
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Additional Cold Weather info:
The RCX chipset is housed in the base of the scope.
Based on personal experience, these chipsets can be sensitive to the cold.
When I called Meade on my issue: At 18f Autostar froze up and RA would not move.
They told me that it's a known issue with the computer chips they use, and I returned it to Meade for a fix, under warrantee.
I should point out that by the time I got mine back from Meade, it was to warm to duplicate the issue. However, the next winter I had the same problem.
There is/was an outfit in Canada that replaces the chips, http://www.nortek.on.ca. However, a quick look at the website no longer shows the service as available. It might be worth a call if you are so inclined.
Edited by Joad (01/09/08 03:10 PM)
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Joad
Wordsmith
Reged: 03/22/05
Posts: 11919
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A thread housekeeping tip: please put "RCX" in your subject lines so that members browsing the Main Index can more easily see when a new RCX related tuneup tip has been posted.
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wrather1
AstroBear
Reged: 10/25/05
Posts: 2932
Loc: Dallas, Texas
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A cheapie way to balance the RA in a polar-mounted (on wedge) RCX scope:
Step 1: Go to your local sporting goods store, and buy a 4-lb bag of lead fishing weights (less than 3/4" long size). Do not open the plastic bag they came in.
Step 2: Open the battery-box compartment covers on the forks and remove the battery boxes (useless anyway, since the scope needs 5 amps of DC power!)
Step 3: Stuff the bag of lead weights into the battery compartment on the side that's light. Replace the battery compartment covers.
You're balanced!
(Disclaimer: added equipment such as cameras, guidescopes, etc. will affect balance. The above procedure pertains to an RCX with stock equipment. More or less weight may be required depending on your particular setup.)
--------------------
"Don't worry about what telescope you own, or its quality. Just get out under the night sky, and enjoy God's wondrous universe." - T. M. Back
Meade RCX400-12 on JMI trolley "Ursa Major"
TMB 130SS on EQ6 PRO "Ursus Polaris"
Orion ED80 "Ursa Minor", WO ZS66ED "grab-'n'-go"
Canon EOS 30D (Hutech), Meade DSI, Philips ToUcam Pro
North Texas Clear Sky Chart
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Hornblower
member
Reged: 03/05/07
Posts: 47
Loc: Idaho, USA
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The RCX400 driver provided with TheSky (my copy is TheSky6 professional) does not work properly with the RCX400. It reports connection errors, or causes the hand controller to indicate "downloading...". I have seen this problem reported on other forums. The LX200 driver works fine on the RCX400.
A related problem I have seen reported less frequently is that the RCX400 occasionally reports an incorrect position. This seems to be the result of some sort of serial buffer overflow. The problem is particularly annoying if the position reports are used to control rotation of an observatory dome. I have not seen any report of a workaround for this, other than manual override of the dome position.
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Hornblower
Eagle Rock Observatory
Celestron N5
Celestron C8
Meade RCX400-16
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Pess
(Title)
Reged: 09/12/07
Posts: 1910
Loc: Toledo, Ohio
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There appears to be a known software bug that prevents the OTA sensor reading from being accurate. Typically the reading will be in the midrange. Mine was pegged to 54 degrees despite actual temperature.
Two people have reported contact with Meade in regard to this temperature reading error and both reported that Meade was working on a fix with expected results in 6-12 weeks from this date.
Other issues reported include a OTA temperature report that is pegged at the limit (typically 254*F).
If your OTA is pegged at the extreme then the likelihood is that the wires have pulled free from the sensor that is attached to the Collector Plate.
From steve35ukm on Yahoo RCX board
"I think you will find one or both the wires pulled out of the sensor on the temp sensor glued on the corrector. The wires get caught in the baffle ring slot. (Poor design) Happened to me when the focuser motors went haywire skewing the corrector, the temp will stay on max value. If you are careful you can solder the wires back on and it should read correct temp."
Pesse (I wish it was as warm as my OTA reports!) Mist
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wrather1
AstroBear
Reged: 10/25/05
Posts: 2932
Loc: Dallas, Texas
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My OTA sensor has never been accurate. I just wait until the tube currents go away. The ambient sensor on the other hand seems to be at least in the ballpark most times.
--------------------
"Don't worry about what telescope you own, or its quality. Just get out under the night sky, and enjoy God's wondrous universe." - T. M. Back
Meade RCX400-12 on JMI trolley "Ursa Major"
TMB 130SS on EQ6 PRO "Ursus Polaris"
Orion ED80 "Ursa Minor", WO ZS66ED "grab-'n'-go"
Canon EOS 30D (Hutech), Meade DSI, Philips ToUcam Pro
North Texas Clear Sky Chart
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Pess
(Title)
Reged: 09/12/07
Posts: 1910
Loc: Toledo, Ohio
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Quote:
My OTA sensor has never been accurate. I just wait until the tube currents go away. The ambient sensor on the other hand seems to be at least in the ballpark most times.
I guess the cautionary note would be to remember to set your Dew Heater as a percent of power rather than a relative amount above the OTC reading.
When it was mild weather a tempreture of 54*F was reasonable. But I'm a slow learner and when I saw it for the 5th straight time I figured it out...of course by then it was -20*F outside 
Pesse (I'd say I'm dumber than a pile of bricks but I'm afraid they'd sue for slander) Mist
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wrather1
AstroBear
Reged: 10/25/05
Posts: 2932
Loc: Dallas, Texas
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Yup. I figgered that out already!
But I never found the dew heater to be that effective anyway, so I use an Astrozap heated dewshield instead.
DW
--------------------
"Don't worry about what telescope you own, or its quality. Just get out under the night sky, and enjoy God's wondrous universe." - T. M. Back
Meade RCX400-12 on JMI trolley "Ursa Major"
TMB 130SS on EQ6 PRO "Ursus Polaris"
Orion ED80 "Ursa Minor", WO ZS66ED "grab-'n'-go"
Canon EOS 30D (Hutech), Meade DSI, Philips ToUcam Pro
North Texas Clear Sky Chart
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Joseph Gillman
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 12/06/05
Posts: 2342
Loc: Boothwyn, PA
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http://brucegary.net/RCX/x.htm
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Meade RCX400 30cm --
People dont like when I stick up for Meade but they're just jealous of my RCX 
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NewScopeNowBroke
member
Reged: 08/29/05
Posts: 81
Loc: CA
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RCX / Autostar tip #48.
After flashing for a firmware update, make sure "terrestrial" are not the object you want to search for.
--------------------
 Bakersfield, CA.
12.5" Dob / AZ
80mm APO Refractor / LXD75
10" RCX400 & Working Like A Champ.
My God, it's full of telescopes ! ! !
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Joe B
journeyman
Reged: 10/24/07
Posts: 6
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Hi All,
I have a 10" RCX that I use in Alt/Az mode. One little thing I did that has made my life a bit easier was to take a 1" PCV pipe, cut off about a 1" length, and then cut this piece in half lengthwise so that I have a semi-circle of PVC. I use this to hold the center bolt on the tripod out of the way while I lift the scope onto the tripod base. Once I have the scope centered on the base, I remove the PVC spacer and tighten the bolt into the scope. It is so much easier with the bolt level with the surface of the tripod. And since I am not a big guy, and lifting a 10" RCX is strenuous for me, every little bit helps. I've found this to be very helpful and easy, and it greatly reduces scratching the base of the scope.
Anyway, I've found this to be helpful. Hope someone else does.
--------------------
10" RCX400
Televue 31mm Nagler
Meade 24mm UWA
Televue 16mm Nagler
Televue 5mm Nagler
And a steep learning curve!
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Pess
(Title)
Reged: 09/12/07
Posts: 1910
Loc: Toledo, Ohio
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Hey Joe-
Welcome to cloudy Nights.
keep the tips coming.
pesse (Fellow member of RCX orphans club) Mist
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LLEEGE
Running out of Oxygen
Reged: 03/03/05
Posts: 6848
Loc: Cloud-chester,NY
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Quote:
Hi All,
I have a 10" RCX that I use in Alt/Az mode. One little thing I did that has made my life a bit easier was to take a 1" PCV pipe, cut off about a 1" length, and then cut this piece in half lengthwise so that I have a semi-circle of PVC. I use this to hold the center bolt on the tripod out of the way while I lift the scope onto the tripod base. Once I have the scope centered on the base, I remove the PVC spacer and tighten the bolt into the scope. It is so much easier with the bolt level with the surface of the tripod. And since I am not a big guy, and lifting a 10" RCX is strenuous for me, every little bit helps. I've found this to be very helpful and easy, and it greatly reduces scratching the base of the scope.
Anyway, I've found this to be helpful. Hope someone else does.
Um, isn't the center bolt spring loaded? Mine was. The purpose was to have it "snap" in the base when centered.
--------------------
AP900,LXD75
AP140EDF, TSA102, ZS80EDII
SN6-OTA, C8-OTA
Canon 20D, 350Hutech
PST, Lunt LD60T/DS (on order)
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Joe B
journeyman
Reged: 10/24/07
Posts: 6
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Yes, the bolt is spring loaded. And one would think it would be easy enough to just put the scope on the tripod head and move it around until the bolt snaps into the hole, but I found this to be very difficult in practice. So with this little thingy, I can position the scope on the tripod base, remove the PVC spacer, the bolt pops up, and screw the bolt in. It works well for me.
--------------------
10" RCX400
Televue 31mm Nagler
Meade 24mm UWA
Televue 16mm Nagler
Televue 5mm Nagler
And a steep learning curve!
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LLEEGE
Running out of Oxygen
Reged: 03/03/05
Posts: 6848
Loc: Cloud-chester,NY
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I see.
--------------------
AP900,LXD75
AP140EDF, TSA102, ZS80EDII
SN6-OTA, C8-OTA
Canon 20D, 350Hutech
PST, Lunt LD60T/DS (on order)
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Pess
(Title)
Reged: 09/12/07
Posts: 1910
Loc: Toledo, Ohio
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The AUTOSTAR II handbox controller hates cold weather. You'' lose display, buttons get nutso, gibberish scrolls by etc.
I was in the habit of taking the controller into the house with me to keep it warm. but sometimes I'd forget or be out too long and the display would be hard to read or even gibberish.
My firs solution was to buy a Handbox cover from Scopestuff. This was a marginal improvement but the plastic kinda got stiff and made button pressing problematic.
Lately I hit on a perfect solution that solved all my problems. I bought some chem warmer packs for the 'toes.'
Just open the package and expose to air. Good for about 4+ hours.
I pull the ASII hand box out of the leather case and affix the sticky backed chem pack directly to the back of the hand box. Then I slide the hand box back into the leather case.
Works perfectly and display stays nice and bright and gibberish free.
Pesse (Toe Grabber Chemical heater Pac) mist
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LawrenceH
newbie
Reged: 06/19/08
Posts: 4
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I have a 12" RCX400 and live in UK. Can you detail the actual components that you use on your RCX400? I currently use a Meade f6.3 converter with SX SXV-H9C/SX AO unit. The native aperture causes vignetting, especially at f3.3 so I am interested in your comments. I could not locate all the components on your image.
Lawrence
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LLEEGE
Running out of Oxygen
Reged: 03/03/05
Posts: 6848
Loc: Cloud-chester,NY
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You will need the ADASCTLM27. This replaces the stock visual back and allows the use of AP 2.7" accessories. The reducer is an 27TVPH. You will also need the ADA2003. This screws into the reducer allowing the use of 2" accesories. (either EP's or camera nose pieces) All parts are listed on the Astro-physics web site in the price list tab.
NOTE:
You can also use just the ADASCTL27 and the ADA2003 without the reducer. This will act as the "eye opener" to reduce/eliminate vignetting with wide field AP's
--------------------
AP900,LXD75
AP140EDF, TSA102, ZS80EDII
SN6-OTA, C8-OTA
Canon 20D, 350Hutech
PST, Lunt LD60T/DS (on order)
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LawrenceH
newbie
Reged: 06/19/08
Posts: 4
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The built-in visual back is not screwed on - it is gluewed on. Are you really saying that one should break the unit off in order to fit a replacement?
Lawrence
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