Scott K
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 09/13/07
Posts: 816
Loc: Dallas, TX & Eufaula, OK
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We had just amazingly good weather here in Oklahoma on Saturday. Clear sky all day, very little wind - comfortable temperatures. We also had some company coming over, so it seemed like it would be a good night to show off my observatory.
The first thing we looked at was the moon. While we were looking, I asked my brother-in-law to just walk around the room some. Sure enough - you could see the image tremble slightly. Not a good sign, but I'd planned on installing some flooring to dampen the effects of people walking around.
Well, it turns out that it is a good night after all, decent seeing (although not perfect), and I show off lots of deepsky objects to my guests. But Mars and saturn just do NOT look very good.
So I wait until much later, until Saturn is near the zenith, and try again - using a 7mm eyepiece on my 12" LX200. (~400x) Sure enough, saturn still looks BAD. It's like I can't focus the scope - it just always seems slightly "fuzzy".
At that point I notice the little space heater sitting on the floor in the dome. (My niece turned it on earlier.) This thing doesn't produce much heat, but the fan in it is kind of noisy. So I think "no way", but I turn it off anyway. 20 seconds or so later, saturn is looking pretty good. I turn it back on, and sure enough, within 30 seconds saturn goes all soft again.
I try this several more times, and with the heater on, the image is pretty soft. With the heater off, the image solidifies - but it's still not perfect. So I turn off the PC in the dome - it has a couple of small fans, afterall. And hey, without the heater or the PC running, Saturn is looking pretty crisp. So I next try rotating the dome a bit while looking. Sure enough, I can see that too.
So I think it's pretty likely that vibration is being trasferred (quite efficiently really) between the floor of the dome and the pier.
Here's a couple of pictures of the pier footer:
Now you'll notice a couple of things that I did wrong: 1. I could NOT get the guy who poured the concrete to isolate the pier footer from the foundation. He argued that it would be less stable, and anyway, he wasn't prepared to do it, and he was the only person I could find who'd even take the job out in my area. So it's one monolithic slab.
2. When he installed the conduit, he didn't run it where I asked him, so the conduit is partially in the pier footer.
Anyway, I'd hoped that with 6 yards^3 of concrete, there would be sufficient mass to dampen vibrations. But apparently that's not the case, the concrete in the foundation appears to transmit vibration extremely efficiently into my telescope. This isn't really visible at low to moderate power, but at 400x it's sledgehammer obvious. 
I could cut the foundation I suppose - but you'll note that because of where the conduit is set there is absolutely no way to cut the concrete without severing the conduit. I'm sort of hesitant to do this becuase the 6" thick portion of the foundation (the thinnest part) will take fairly heavy equipment to cut, and it will be just incredibly messy.
So what I'm going to try instead is one of the vibration isolation platforms from Pier-tech. (Hopefully it will arrive around the same time as my new scope and mount.) I'm also going to try adding some rubber bushings around the j-bolts that connect the pier to the slab.
But whatever ends up finally being the solution (I'm pretty optimistic about the device from pier-tech), I wanted people to know that the common wisdom about isolating your pier seems to be absolutely correct. I have a pretty respectable mass of concrete on the ground - this seems to make no real difference. (Well, maybe it makes some, but the system doesn't end up being useable at high powers anyway.)
By the way, if people have suggestions for other things to try, feel free to post them. I'm also likely to put some flooring down on the concrete slab to help dampen vibration from anything inside the dome. (Unfortunately, that won't help with vibration induced by motion from the dome itself.)
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NeoDinian
Experienced Postmaster
   
Reged: 10/05/05
Posts: 11802
Loc: Rockford Illinois
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I would cut 3 sides, and just avoid the side with the pipes... This may help a lot... After cutting, just fill the cut with Silicone caulk...
-------------------- Neo... (Jeff)
-=-=-=-=-=-=-
10" LX200-GPS/SMT UHTC "Draco"
Rockford, Il.
NeoDinian's Eye on the Sky!
Coming soon:
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Scott K
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 09/13/07
Posts: 816
Loc: Dallas, TX & Eufaula, OK
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Hi Neo,
I'd thought about that - maybe cutting 3 1/2 sides, leaving lots of margin for error for the conduit. A couple of things I'm wondering:
1. How likely is this to really fix the problem, do you think? (Obviously if need be I can sacrifice the conduit.)
2. How messy is this going to be? I'm assuming I'd want to remove all of the equipment, electronics for the dome, motors for the dome before cutting because of the dust. But there are rollers and other components that aren't so easy to remove. Would that be necessary, do you think?
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Manny Myles
Carpal Tunnel
   
Reged: 11/29/05
Posts: 2078
Loc: Flatlandia
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to see the real term of dust bowl cut in an enclosed space,. Dust will be in every crack crevice and places you can't imagine. I used to sawcut concrete all the time and at times in enclosed spaces. You could wet cut it then you have a nice slurry to deal with then the rooster tail of slurry flying behind you. More later m2
-------------------- Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak
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Spaz
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 01/19/07
Posts: 758
Loc: New Zealand
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Are you able to install a raised floor which can be entirely isolated from the pad and pier, or almost so?
With an integral pad/pier floor, you'll never be able to prevent vibration, so the only way to mitigate the effects is to isolate the pad and pier from the rest of the structure.
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Joe DeAugustine
newbie
Reged: 01/24/08
Posts: 1
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Scott,
I am an electrician by trade. Plastic conduit is easy to repair. If you are going to cut the concrete you have to do it on all 4 sides of the pier because any contact with the slab will transmit bad vibes. You may also want to check on vibration suppression pads or mounting hardware that are commonly used for industrial and machine shop equipment. Good Luck.
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Scott K
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 09/13/07
Posts: 816
Loc: Dallas, TX & Eufaula, OK
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Quote:
Are you able to install a raised floor which can be entirely isolated from the pad and pier, or almost so?
Nope. (old) photo of the interior:
There's a couple of reasons for this:
1. I can't see how I'd do it without disassembling the dome completely and mounting it on decking. This really isn't feasible. (Or at least it would be the last possible resort after I'd tried lots of other stuff.) It takes a 5 man crew to assemble / disassemble this thing (it's a 15 foot dome), and it's taken me a couple of months of tweaking to get the mechanical operation of the dome mostly just right.
2. I'd have to extensively modify the slope of the landscape around the dome. Tear out the retaining wall, and then rebuild the retaining wall.
It would be basically about the same cost as just tearing out the existing foundation and starting over. I don't really want to do that - the cost alone is prohbitive.
edit: I just noticed the little heater that was doing such an efficient job of inducing vibration in my pier was in the picture. That little thing was causing me a world of grief.
Edited by Scott K (02/11/08 05:38 PM)
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Scott K
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 09/13/07
Posts: 816
Loc: Dallas, TX & Eufaula, OK
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Quote:
Scott,
I am an electrician by trade. Plastic conduit is easy to repair. If you are going to cut the concrete you have to do it on all 4 sides of the pier because any contact with the slab will transmit bad vibes. You may also want to check on vibration suppression pads or mounting hardware that are commonly used for industrial and machine shop equipment. Good Luck.
Thanks Joe, that's good to know about conduit. How would you repair it, by the way? (I really am a big idiot about construction.) I'd assumed you'd have to cut it on all four sides to really work.
I'm actually looking at this vibration suppression pad:
Pier-tech Vibration Isolation Platform
I think that, coupled with a much more stable telescope mounting (I'm going with a Paramount ME) may do the trick. But in case it doesn't, I want to have some other options, including worst case ones. (And if there are easier ideas, I will try them first.)
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Bowmoreman
Carpal Tunnel
   
Reged: 09/11/06
Posts: 2963
Loc: Bolton, MA
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Couple of ideas here, Scott:
1) the Raised floor doesn't HAVE to mean all those nasty things... just put it around the pier and out to around 4-5" in from the circumference of your dome wall... float it (a wood decking probably is most cost effective) on "footers" that are hard rubber, and then top those off with pucks of a material known as "Sorbothane"...
It is a special type of rubberized material that turns vibrations into heat... I've used it for years underneath vibration sensitive components in my high-end audio system (especially the record player)... it is especially effective at higher frequencies (which are the only ones that are going get transmitted through THAT much concrete!)
I'm afraid that only isolating your pier on 3 sides isn't going to prevent the "ringing" from propagating through the remaining 4th side... and "ringing" is what you're seeing (basically)...
The lower frequencies are quite well damped by MASS (of which you have a tons - pardon the pun)...
While not super cheap, sorbothane WILL work wonders...
Alternatively, instead of doing the ENTIRE floor, just do a platform around the immediate vicinity, and then isolate anything with fans/motors/moving parts on individual Sorbothane pucks...
Good luck!
clear enough skies
-------------------- Dave
Ustream
YLive
XT10i, RTP, CGE, R200CF, TMB80SS
31T5, 22T4, 13Ethos, 8Ethos, TV 3-6 Zoom; Paracorr
MallincamColorHyperPlus,SBIG STV&237A;CanonRebel Xti
WilderSkiesObservatory(BYO #90)
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dgs©
Postmaster
   
Reged: 03/29/04
Posts: 13657
Loc: West Monroe, Louisiana
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Maybe some sort of soft flooring, like anti-fatigue mats. 
Other than that, I was thinking maybe a jackhammer might raise less dust than a saw and make it easier to deal with the conduit recoupling by giving some elbow room. Probably still a bigger mess than ideal. 
Strong argument for DIRTFT... Do It Right The First Time.
-------------------- - david
8"Ø Newtonian on SVP, Moonlite CR2, Telrad
PST Oberwerk Ultra 15x70 Orion Ultraview 10×50
Hand-me-down Sears Refractor (Discoverer) 60mm×900mm
"What we have done for ourselves alone dies with us; what we have done for others and the world, remains and is immortal." --Albert Pike
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Scott K
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 09/13/07
Posts: 816
Loc: Dallas, TX & Eufaula, OK
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Wow, that's fascinating Dave! I'd never heard of Sorbothane! OK, I see what you are saying.
I think what you suggest would get everything but the walls of the dome themselves. The dome weighs about 650 lbs, and the motors for it vibrate a good deal. Would it be possible to make shims of this stuff and put them between the sections of the walls where they are bolted together? (Otherwise I'd have to remove the shutter and dome, and install pucks of the stuff between a pair of the rings. Removing the dome is the labor intensive part of the process.
What about pads of sorbothane under the pier itself? The pier is mounted via j-bolts to a plate imbedded in the concrete. I can pretty easily remove it, and add material under it.
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Spoonsize
Vendor/Clothing
   
Reged: 08/27/04
Posts: 2064
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Sacrifice the conduit....just cut it. Oh, remove the wires first. Cut a slot about 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide all around to completely separate the pier. Lightly press some type of filler, (fiberglass insulation) about 1 inch X 1 Inch to 1/4 inch below the surface and top it off with a rubber type caulking sealant. You ought to be able to run the wires back thru the conduit.
You ought to be able to rent a contractors saw that will cut thru the 6 inches.
-------------------- Steve Durham
www.margesmonograms.com
(Marge made me do it)
Edited by Spoonsize (02/11/08 06:20 PM)
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Scott K
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 09/13/07
Posts: 816
Loc: Dallas, TX & Eufaula, OK
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Quote:
Strong argument for DIRTFT... Do It Right The First Time.
Yeah, I know - that's why I posted the thread. 
I almost couldn't find anyone to actually do the pour out there. NOBODY wanted the job. I was very, very explicit about what I wanted - and I specified isolation. But when the day of the job came, they weren't prepared to do it, didn't see the need to do it, and just flat weren't going to do it, and I didn't feel like I had a lot of other choices. The concrete guy didn't feel like he could do the isolated pier and have it be stable. (I'd been looking for someone to do the pour for a couple of months!)
If only I'd known why isolation is necessary - high frequency vibration - maybe I'd have told him to take a walk. (Although there's a real good chance I still wouldn't have the dome built yet had I done that.)
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Spaz
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 01/19/07
Posts: 758
Loc: New Zealand
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At least you're not alone: somebody (from the UK?) recently started a thread asking if an integrated pier and pad was really a bad thing, because their dome supplier (!!!) insisted it was the way to go.
Unless your slab is really, really deep and thick, vibration will always pass through it into the pier (and telescope), if they aren't isolated from each other.
Ah well, bad luck, but live and learn. At least you know you won't take any s**t from the people you're paying next time!
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Pedestal
Carpal Tunnel
   
Reged: 03/11/06
Posts: 2952
Loc: Smoggy Bottom, Baytown,Texas
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Be prepared to wash down the inside of the dome (EVERYTHNG) with a water hose. Tie a good lead on the wires in your conduit, and pull the wire back a couple of feet. Rent a small buster, and a saw. Bust out around the conduit before you cut, and try not to cut the conduit. It's not a question of PVC being easy to repair-you can't repair it unless you have something to glue to. Once your saw cuts are made, a couple of boards for isolation spacers and (hopefully) a sack of ready mix to patch the busted out portion. Wash down the inside of the dome. Other than taking everything out of the dome, busting out the entire pier and repouring, I don't see any other way... Hubert
-------------------- www.smoggybottom.org
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NeoDinian
Experienced Postmaster
   
Reged: 10/05/05
Posts: 11802
Loc: Rockford Illinois
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A raised floor will not work, unless you can somehow mount the floor so it don't touch the concrete.. If it is touching, you'll still get the vibes...
I say go for the cut, all 4 sides. Sacrifice the conduit...
-------------------- Neo... (Jeff)
-=-=-=-=-=-=-
10" LX200-GPS/SMT UHTC "Draco"
Rockford, Il.
NeoDinian's Eye on the Sky!
Coming soon:
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Scott K
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 09/13/07
Posts: 816
Loc: Dallas, TX & Eufaula, OK
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Quote:
A raised floor will not work, unless you can somehow mount the floor so it don't touch the concrete.. If it is touching, you'll still get the vibes...
I say go for the cut, all 4 sides. Sacrifice the conduit...
That was pretty much my thinking. 
By the way, before I go nuts and start cutting the floor of my dome apart, any suggestions for an absolutely certain test? I am pretty convinced this is the problem - but who knows - maybe I'm mistaken. I guess I'll need something that sets up high frequency vibrations in the floor that I can switch on and off pretty easily. Or is there an easy way to measure the vibration of the pier itself?
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NeoDinian
Experienced Postmaster
   
Reged: 10/05/05
Posts: 11802
Loc: Rockford Illinois
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Hook up a webcam, point to a bright star... Start recording...
Walk around, see results. Stomp, check results. Tap foot, see results... You get the idea...
Use the webcam, so you don't introduce vibration from yourself touching the mount/scope in any way...
-------------------- Neo... (Jeff)
-=-=-=-=-=-=-
10" LX200-GPS/SMT UHTC "Draco"
Rockford, Il.
NeoDinian's Eye on the Sky!
Coming soon:
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Spaz
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 01/19/07
Posts: 758
Loc: New Zealand
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Quote:
A raised floor will not work, unless you can somehow mount the floor so it don't touch the concrete.. If it is touching, you'll still get the vibes...
That was my point: if a floor could be installed which was isolated from the pad and pier, the problem would be solved.
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1965healey
Carpal Tunnel
   
Reged: 06/23/07
Posts: 2751
Loc: San Antonio, TX
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What you might need to do is de-couple the pier from the main floor if the Pier-Tech isolation mount doesn't work. When I built recording studios many moons ago we saw cut the floors to isolate them from the walls. Then we built the walls so that the sill plates were riding on neoprene strips, the sheetrock was hung with neoprene strips on all the studs and another neoprene strip as a gasket between the sheetrock and the floor. Top plates, you guessed it, more neoprene gaskets. The ceilings were suspended on springs hung from beams. EVERYTHING that could hum, bump, buzz or vibrate in ANY WAY was shock mounted with neoprene gaskets. We were fanatical about vibrations of any frequency being transmitted to the microphones. I'm not sure how deep your re-bar and mesh is but if you don't cut it and it's still tied to the pier it may still transmit vibrations. The Pier-Tech isolation mount would be my first step before I started cutting up my floor and trashing the obs with dust and debris. Then I'd just put rubber mats under all the stuff like the computer and any thing else with a fan in it. If you dry cut the floor you'll gave to strip the inside of the dome and practically hose it down to get rid of the dust. If you wet cut it you'll have a concrete slime swamp on your hands that you'll have to wet vac out and then mop the floor about a dozen times to get rid of the residue. Man this just bites, it's been one thing after another.
-------------------- 1965Healey (Karen)
Woodlawn Lake Observatory
Celestron CPC 800/FT MIcro/APT Wedge
SV NHNG 80mm #0261/CG5-GT
Celestron Omni 150 XLT
Losmandy rails/rings
Starizona CWeight system
Celestron Neximage
Sony a100 DSLR/ZigView S2
Meade DS60's w/Autostar (2)
Meade LPI/Meade DSI-C/DSI ProII
750cc Honda Shadow Spirit (Thanks Dad!)
1965 Austin Healey 3000 MKIII
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rodney
domed in NJ
   
Reged: 03/08/05
Posts: 438
Loc: Asbury, NJ
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Scott,
With everything so far described and the attached images I would personally hack the 4 sides and cut that conduit. Question. Why was the outlet placed out that far from the pier? Cut that out and cut over to the pier removing the four sides. Another question. In your one image after the concrete pour showing the pier, what are those pads on the outside of the pier? That looks like the thick felt or whatever it is between my sidewalk pads.
Of course when you go to cut this concrete remove "everything" from the observatory. Cover what you can. You have a load of room to work in there. A decent exhaust fan working towards you door opening will help keep the particulates down. Go slow, be patient and you will have an isolated pier.
Another test of your pier issue is to have someone jump anywhere in the observatory while you are viewing. Of course the webcam idea is the best. Or a live image view of say the moon while walking around.
Let us know,
-------------------- My Explora Dome construction is here:
http://www.freewebs.com/rodbo1967/observatoryconstruction.htm
Rodney
13 Truss
C8-NGT
Orion 80mm/F11
Extremely happy owner of an Explora Dome home observatory
and a list of goodies to big for this sig
Edited by rodney (02/11/08 10:06 PM)
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Scott K
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 09/13/07
Posts: 816
Loc: Dallas, TX & Eufaula, OK
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Quote:
Scott, Question. Why was the outlet placed out that far from the pier?
'cause he did it wrong.
Quote:
In your one image after the concrete pour showing the pier, what are those pads on the outside of the pier? That looks like the thick felt or whatever it is between my sidewalk pads.
Yeah, I think that's what it is. It was really all he was willing to do to isolate the pad. 
I will definitely keep you posted as to how this all turns out!
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Telescopeman54
Vendor - Trapezium Telescopes & Services, LLC.
   
Reged: 08/17/07
Posts: 1042
Loc: New Hampshire
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Just a few odd thoughts:
Have you tried filling the pier with sand? That may do the trick.
You may still need to isolate the pier by cutting the concrete. If so, remove the pier and as much stuff as possible. Cover everything with plastic drop clothes and then make a tent over the work area from more drop clothes. Use a concrete saw to cut away what's necessary. I would say two inches should do it. A shop vac with the nozzle held near the cutting device will help to keep the dust down, too.
I would also consider sacrificing the conduit. If the conduit is actually too large and you have plenty of room with all of the wires installed, you may be able to pull a slightly smaller piece of conduit through. As long as you have access to the area where the two pieces need to be sealed it should be an easy fix. However, if you can get to the cut off point on the conduit then you should be able to marry a new piece in place.
Next time, if ever, just remind the contractor that he's working for you and he will follow your instructions or he can take his concrete and let it harden in his truck!!
Personally, I think it's more savageable than you believe. It WILL take some hard work, but, it's not impossible.
By the way, did you ever consider mixing your own? Yes, it would have taken some time and been a back breaker of a job, but, it's not impossible.
CS
sbf
-------------------- Steve Forbes
6.25" f/15 Mogey/NASA refractor on GOTO GEM
6" f/15 Jaegers refractor on GOTO GEM
5.1" f/8 Burgess on CG-5 w/GOTONOVA
4" f/15 Jaegers on ORION ATLAS GOTO
2x 6" f/6 Edmund Palomar reflectors on GEMs w/ RA and DEC drives
2x 4-1/4" Edmund Palomar Jr. reflectors on GEMS w/ RA drives, (all circa 1965 - 69)
3" Edmund reflector on "EQ" mount from @1963
4" Criterion reflector with "EQ" mount from @1956.
150mm f/12 MAK w/iOptron Mini Tower
Lots of other stuff, too!
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Scott K
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 09/13/07
Posts: 816
Loc: Dallas, TX & Eufaula, OK
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Quote:
Have you tried filling the pier with sand? That may do the trick.
The pier is a PT3 adjustable height pier - it's not hollow, and the hydrolics wouldn't much like sand...
Quote:
You may still need to isolate the pier by cutting the concrete. If so, remove the pier and as much stuff as possible. Cover everything with plastic drop clothes and then make a tent over the work area from more drop clothes. Use a concrete saw to cut away what's necessary. I would say two inches should do it. A shop vac with the nozzle held near the cutting device will help to keep the dust down, too.
Thanks, those are good tips!
Quote:
Next time, if ever, just remind the contractor that he's working for you and he will follow your instructions or he can take his concrete and let it harden in his truck!!
He'd have probably been fine with that. The attitude and work ethic out there in rural OK is just different than anything I'm used to.
Quote:
By the way, did you ever consider mixing your own? Yes, it would have taken some time and been a back breaker of a job, but, it's not impossible.
Well, since the foundation is 17' across, and we used like 6 yards of concrete, mixing it myself didn't seem practical. Also the most complex building project I've done prior to this is to hang a towel bar in my house!
Passion for an activity will lead you to attempt not very sensible things, I guess!
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JerryWise
Postmaster
   
Reged: 12/26/03
Posts: 6727
Loc: Lexington, SC
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Scott, something doesn't seem right. Last year I had a similar experience at a remote site. An isolated pier I poured was integrated into the slab by what must have been your contractor idiot's brother. Not only that, he made a 14 foot by 14 foot slab into a 7 by 17 foot slab. (Father in law uses the guy and they misunderstood his instructions they said.) But anyway, what's done is done.
I setup my C-11 on a Takahashi NJP mount and had another CN member setup his C-11 on an AP-1200 + Piertech on the same small slab with me. I had the NJP mounted on the pier integrated into the slab. They were constantly walking about (two 200 pounders) and I never saw vibrations.
At home I have the 10' ProDome (looks like yours is the next size up) built on the top floor of a 4 story building. The pier goes through to the floor below but will still jiggle some when the floor is stomped in the observatory. When I image or do high power visual I live with a little vibration. Nothing I can do with the observatory I have will fix it (within reason).
If it were me, I'd take it a little further before sawing up the floor. First, I'd setup the LX200 near or over the Piertech on it's tripod. Then cut the heater on. while carefully observing at high power with the heater on note the vibrations. If you still have the vibrations while using the tripod then while watching Mars or Saturn at high power while seeing the vibrations cut the LX200 drive motors off. I'm quite sure you are seeing a harmonic of some sort and not a physical vibration.
When you rotate a ProDome that is a lot of mass with wierd acoustics. Mine would vibrate a slab while rotating. I note you use the motors for rotation. Those motors have a significant current draw when in operation. There is just a lot of things going back to the power in what you describe. Cut off the PC and the vibration changes. Cut off the fan and it changes. Rotate the dome and you see vibrations. Note all these relate to power loading. A pc motor on 6 yards of concrete with a LX200 at 400 power just doesn't have enough energy to vibrate that setup. I just don't think the problem is isolated yet.
If you still have the vibration on the tripod do one more test. Move the tripod outside the observatory and setup on the ground. Run a drop cord into the dome plugging into the trip outlet (what a contractor) and plug the LX200 into the cord. Have somebody rotate the dome, cut the PC on and off and cycle the heater. If you stil have the vibration outside the dome then...... don't cut the floor.
Before spending a lot of money I'd put a mount in there designed for solid performance. I didn't get good vibration free performance until going with a Takahashi NJP and eventually to the AP-1200. My LX200s always vibrated at high power. A Tak NJP mount will cost you less than the modifications you propose (especially with the contractor experts you are dealing with) and if it still vibrates then at least you have a mount worthy of your observatory (not knocking the Meade, I have one too).
-------------------- Jerry
Meade 14" ACF, 102ED Celestron C-11, C-6
Tak FS-152, TOA-150, FS-78, FS-60c, Orion 102ED
AP-1200, Mach 1, CG-5
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Scott K
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 09/13/07
Posts: 816
Loc: Dallas, TX & Eufaula, OK
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Quote:
I just don't think the problem is isolated yet.
It is kind of hard to believe. OK, I'll quit panicing and roll my sleeves back up and analyze this further...
Thanks Jerry. You're the second person who's suggested I investigate any electrical issues - so I'm definitely going to do that. I'm going to do some further testing before I do anything radical, that's for sure!
One thing I'll do is power the scope from a battery for a while and see if the seeing varies with other electrical loads on the AC circuit. (If it varies then it's not an electrical issue affecting the scope's tracking.)
I've got a paramount on order - it should be here soon, and I expect it will be a lot more stable. The larger Meades just can't be as stable - I'm sure you can build a fork that will hold a 12-14" scope that is rock solid, but I bet you can't build one that way that I can lift! Nothing against the meade either - like anything else it's a compromise design with inherent tradeoffs.
I thought about setting up the tripod, but I think it'll be better isolated because the feet on it are rubber. I may try that anyway.
Testing it outside the dome is a good idea too.
The most annoying part of all this is it's probably weekend after next before I can get out there again.
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rodney
domed in NJ
   
Reged: 03/08/05
Posts: 438
Loc: Asbury, NJ
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Re: How not to build a pier footer!
[Re: Scott K]
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