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Equipment Discussions >> Observatories

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MRNUTTY
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 11/22/11

Loc: Mendon, MA
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: roscoe]
      #5427753 - 09/18/12 04:24 PM

Russ, thanks a bunch for the detail. I'm almost sorry to say that when I got home the two sheds were already connected! They'd done such a nice job, i didn't have to heart to even ask about moving he shed :-) After I 'scoped' it out these dimensions work out fine. It turns out I was a tad cramped on the warm room anyway.

Here are new pictures. Some detail on the warm room at the end.











Here's the other project going on. A 4 season porch/room conversion; used to be the deck
we never used; always too hot and the deck was wobbly. The original contractor didn't put
and cross bracing to strengthen it.



This picture (below) was taken a little later after they finished up the interior room showing
the framing for the 'warm room'. There are two doors along the left hand side interior room
and rear wall. The wall will also have a 'awning' type casement window ( opens 'up' ) for
viewing the 'hanger deck' from a seated position in the 'warm room'.

The roof rolls off 11 feet. The interior wall is recessed an additional foot past the 11 feet.
to accommodate a one foot deep storage space in the 'hanger deck'. The storage space
will still being covered by the roof in the fully rolled off position.

The depth of the 'warm room' is then 8 feet. both doors open 'into the warm room' There
are windows placed on both the north and south wall; one in each of the 'warm room', and
'hanger deck'.



Here's a close up of he concrete pier. The BYO Omega II pier will have a home here. I need
to get the roof on, and the elevations of the mount and telescope to device on a final length
for the Omega II.



Edited by MRNUTTY (09/21/12 06:54 AM)


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roscoe
curmudgeon
*****

Reged: 02/04/09

Loc: NW Mass, inches from VT
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: MRNUTTY]
      #5428084 - 09/18/12 07:17 PM

"Here's the other project going on. A 4 season porch/room conversion; used to be the deck
we never used; always too hot and the deck was wobbly. The original contractor didn't put
and cross bracing to strengthen it."

Aha!! So THAT's how you got to build an observatory!!!!

Yes, Dear, a nice room for you, and a room for me!!

And, I think the roof will be just fine attached to the shed like that............

Looking real nice!
Russ


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MRNUTTY
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 11/22/11

Loc: Mendon, MA
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: roscoe]
      #5428188 - 09/18/12 08:26 PM

LOL! It's so obvious isn't it. :-) I learned my lesson last time when my project held her project up; this time my marching orders for the contractor are no matter the cost, finish hers first'.

I've been thinking of 'hiding' those beams with some tressel work, and commissioning carol for some of her faux-stained glass work for all my new windows!

Edited by MRNUTTY (09/19/12 02:25 PM)


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roscoe
curmudgeon
*****

Reged: 02/04/09

Loc: NW Mass, inches from VT
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: MRNUTTY]
      #5428395 - 09/18/12 10:22 PM

John,
The clearance between the subfloor and your pier looks kind of minimal, at least 1/4" all around would be better., 1/2" wouldn't be excessive. That advantek sheet stock is not supposed to swell up any, but better to be safe now while the contractor and his sawzall are nearby......
R

Yep, I'd suggest that the windows and door go in on the sunroom a day or two before the obs...... they are fast to put in, and produce real big visual effects, thus keeping Mama happy....

Are you putting shingles or metal on the obs roof?


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MRNUTTY
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 11/22/11

Loc: Mendon, MA
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: roscoe]
      #5429339 - 09/19/12 02:29 PM

We had a huge soaker last night. I'll check it when I get home. Most contractors are not familiar with the differnce between "must not touch" and "mostly not touching" :-) fortunately I beat this into my guy good when he built my mixing studio; similar needs there - nothing much touchdown to conducted sound. I realize didn't tell him that concerning the pier.

Windows were 3-4 week lead time item. "Hers" are well on their way along relative to "mine". Safe again! I'm actually looking forward to both projects. We call hers "the Tiki room" :-) with all the windows though, I think the cats are going to monopolize it!


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roscoe
curmudgeon
*****

Reged: 02/04/09

Loc: NW Mass, inches from VT
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: MRNUTTY]
      #5429379 - 09/19/12 02:54 PM

Quote:

We had a huge soaker last night.




Yep, 2.35" up here in the northwest corner of Mass, most rain in one storm we've had since early spring. The gardens and fields really needed it!
R


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MRNUTTY
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 11/22/11

Loc: Mendon, MA
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: roscoe]
      #5430529 - 09/20/12 09:04 AM

Russ, yeah the clearance is tight around the pier. Good catch :-)

I ordered up the Angle Iron today. I got 2"x2" @ 1/4" thick. I had screw holes drilled every 2ft with an offset so the screws won't be in the same area of the wood. Also, I selected a galvanized steel so it won't rust. The last part doubled the cost of the material. I hadn't seen anyone else spec galvanized*, but I didn't want to take any chances on rust plus you can't reliably paint it without the roller wearing it down. Not something I want to keep up maintenance on. The costs:
four 20ft pieces of 1/4" thick galvanized 2"x2" angle iron: $424
7/16th holes drilled down both sides every 2ft with offset: $144
Delivery: $35
Weight: 65lb each

* my mistake Dan "hunterofphotons" did in fact say exactly this in this thread :-) sorry Dan! Good catch!

Edited by MRNUTTY (09/20/12 09:07 AM)


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MRNUTTY
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 11/22/11

Loc: Mendon, MA
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: MRNUTTY]
      #5434603 - 09/22/12 02:48 PM

Today's update! holes for windows!

There are two sets of windows on the North and South facing walls. Two for the warm room and two for the hanger deck. Additionally, there is a horizontal observation window between the rooms used to monitor the equipment during AP or VP sessions.



Two views of the casement observation window. It's positioned in such a way as to permit
a good view of the equipment on the pier from a sitting position inside the warm room.
Seeing it from this perspective, It looks like it needs to move away from the wall by another
set of studs. *shrug* maybe not :-)





In the photo above, the Pier should be directly in the center of the bottom of the image.

Going to slow down for a while waiting for the windows to come in.

Meanwhile, thinking about electricity... I figure three circuits:
1) Motor drive for roof.
2) HVAC
3) Everything else; 12 VDC and line supply. Computers, controllers, monitors, Video, wireless, etc...

Actually, I should run ethernet out to the shed, there is a leaf switch* within reach of 50ft of cat6 cable.

* my core switch is a 24 port 1Gb switch where the leaf switches, NAS, File Servers, and utilities servers tie in; 8 port 1Gb leaf switches at various places within the house serve to tie everything else into the core network. I can put a Apple Airport Extreme out in the shed to serve the poolside better :-)

Edited by MRNUTTY (09/22/12 08:41 PM)


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Mary B
Vendor - Echo Astronomy and Electronics
*****

Reged: 05/21/10

Loc: Minnesota
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: MRNUTTY]
      #5436703 - 09/23/12 06:27 PM

For 12 volt distribution look into anderson powerpoles and West Mountain Radio RigRunners.

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Wmacky
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 11/24/07

Loc: Florida
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: Mary B]
      #5436859 - 09/23/12 07:53 PM

Looking good. My Warm room window opening is about that wide, but double that height.What are you putting in that hole?

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MRNUTTY
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 11/22/11

Loc: Mendon, MA
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: Mary B]
      #5436914 - 09/23/12 08:21 PM

Great lead! Thx Mary!

@wmacky, I'm planning on a 16x36 inch casement window. The glass will crank up when it's open. I put a chair behind behind the window in the warm room, and views around the pier look fine through the hole as it is. I didn't really want to have all that pulled out and done again.

Russ, we cut about 1/2 to 3/4 inch around the concrete and it looks much better now. I'm waiting on trusses for the roof, and windows for the windows holes :-) the warm room will have insulation on the walls and the ceiling... Didn't think about it early enough to do under the floor. Oh, well it's not like the house is 1/2 mile away and I'll freeze. I guess it will end up being regular wallboard, unless there are strong feelings for something different. Not sure about the flooring yet either. It'll be rain proof when closed... Any ideas folks?


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roscoe
curmudgeon
*****

Reged: 02/04/09

Loc: NW Mass, inches from VT
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: MRNUTTY]
      #5437616 - 09/24/12 08:22 AM

John,
For your warm room floor, you could perhaps put some foam insulation under a top layer of flooring - They make that rigid pink stuff 3/4" thick, and you could put 1/2" ply on top...... For the main floor, a decent grade of ply with a painted finish would be fast and easy......or you could put in one of those clip-together floors for a fancier look - same in the warm room, too, but if insulating, you might want to put 3/8 ply under the flooring for more stiffness if you do so.....
Russ


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DeanS
Post Laureate
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Reged: 07/12/05

Loc: Central Kentucky
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: roscoe]
      #5437932 - 09/24/12 11:48 AM

May I suggest you add a cut out for a small AC unit, perhaps on the warm room wall by the door? This will keep you cool on hot nights, and can be used to help control the humidity during the summer.

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DeanS
Post Laureate
*****

Reged: 07/12/05

Loc: Central Kentucky
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: DeanS]
      #5437989 - 09/24/12 12:15 PM

Another thought since your roof does not roll off as far as you had planned, if you do a hip roof design it will not block off as much of the sky. That was the main reason I did mine that way.

Dean


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MRNUTTY
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 11/22/11

Loc: Mendon, MA
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: DeanS]
      #5440174 - 09/25/12 04:13 PM

Russ, good thinking. A little insulation is better than none :-) I positioned the doors of the warm room opposite each other such that if I need to raise the floor somewhat clearance for the doors are within the same rectangular area between them. I also have lots of head room to go up!

Dean, I was thinking of just putting the AC in the south facing window in the warm room. I was leery of cutting special purpose holes in case I sized the AC wrong and it wouldn't fit. The window can take a variety of machine sizes. I was thinking hip roof too, but I have enough clearance as it is, and a normal gable end simplifies the truss design down to one-size-fits-all :-)


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MRNUTTY
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 11/22/11

Loc: Mendon, MA
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: MRNUTTY]
      #5440487 - 09/25/12 07:32 PM

Todays update: Angle Iron arrived! If anyone in the area is building an RoR, I sourced it from Sullivan Steel in Worcester MA. They delivered a distance of 30 miles for $35. There were 2 pieces were 20 FT 2"x2" of 1/4" Angle Iron and 2 pieces of 11 FT 9.5 inches. I also had them drill screw holes. They also delivered the 8FT some odd inches of remainder



Here's two closeups of the Angle Iron and to corresponding Roller from BYO... and my foot. Two things to pay attention to with the screw holes are:
1) Distance from the crest of the Angle Iron to the location of the drill holes. You need to have the screw head clear the area that the roller will occupy. Seems obvious, but I ended up closer than I wanted to.
2) Offset the holes so they aren't facing each other across the crest. The screws will conflict with each other, obviously. Unless you forget to make allowances for it.





Also, have someone to help you carry them; at 65 lbs each, they aren't too bad to hoist off the truck onto someplace easily accessible. But, to carry them any distance or place them on the top plate of the wall is a two-person job!


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MRNUTTY
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 11/22/11

Loc: Mendon, MA
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: MRNUTTY]
      #5462701 - 10/09/12 07:10 PM

back in business again, and a week of good weather to continue work.

here's are the trusses; 12 foot span.



1/2 the Angle Iron installed too :-) I had the bold holes drilled to 7/16's, the wood bolts are 3/8's. I should have had them drilled closer to the outer edge since the wheels hit the bolts heads by a very narrow margin. For a while there will be some clicks, but the large hole will push the bolt head out of the way as well as the wear over time will eliminate it. The bolts are 2 feet apart per side, each side alternates so the there is a bolt every foot.



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roscoe
curmudgeon
*****

Reged: 02/04/09

Loc: NW Mass, inches from VT
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: MRNUTTY]
      #5463017 - 10/09/12 10:52 PM

Quote:

the wheels hit the bolts heads by a very narrow margin.




If the noise or the roughness of operation was troubling, you could flatten the bolt tops a bit with an angle grinder, or a small grindstone in an electric drill, or even a file. (I think you need to buy an angle grinder.....tell your wife I said it's ok!)
Russ


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MRNUTTY
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 11/22/11

Loc: Mendon, MA
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: roscoe]
      #5473543 - 10/16/12 04:27 PM

Thanks a great idea Russ, but it's very minor conflict. Besides, I'm trying to go the other way with tools; I've had so many I never really used much. Just the basics for me; screw driver, hammer and sawzall :-)

Back in business this week! Roof is on with rollers! View down the hill from the NW.



Trusses



Rollers. Six each side, every four feet. It's still nailed down... no rolling yet!



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MRNUTTY
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 11/22/11

Loc: Mendon, MA
Re: Materials for ROR design new [Re: MRNUTTY]
      #5477256 - 10/18/12 03:36 PM

roof was shingled today with fascia's etc...



Only have one problem...



the is the end that the roof slides AWAY from. The gap between the roof and the wall needs
some type of weather proofing to keep the rain out. Other than extending the wall all the
way up the gable end under the fascia boards, I'm not sure what I could do here. The plans
from BYO didn't have any detail on this part. The other gable end is easy since the roof rolls
over the wall I can just put a skirt board on the gable end over the gap. But on this side a
skirt board doesn't seal the top where the rain comes in...

Any ideas?



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