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tim53
Postmaster
*****

Reged: 12/17/04

Loc: Highland Park, CA
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: careysub]
      #6232893 - 12/04/13 09:05 AM

Quote:

This is a good reminder to "think outside the box" a bit.

Instead of copying the profiles of commercial dovetails (a box encouraged by the very term "dovetail"), look at the shoe you are making it for and consider how the clamp/screw engages and make a simple/convenient profile, like a simple step, that works with the target shoe. Stacking two flat bars might work, as well as any number of wood/light aluminum shape combo arrangements.




That's what I did (pics above).

-Tim.


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don clement
Vendor (Clement Focuser)


Reged: 02/02/11

Loc: Running Springs, California
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: careysub]
      #6232954 - 12/04/13 10:03 AM

Quote:

This is a good reminder to "think outside the box" a bit.




I agree. The traditional dovetail is hard (or dangerous) to fabricate without a mill. How about round rod rail components as are used for linear bearing supports. E.g. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/350679192565?lpid=82

Don


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careysub
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 02/18/11

Loc: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: tim53]
      #6232957 - 12/04/13 10:05 AM

Quote:

Quote:

This is a good reminder to "think outside the box" a bit.

Instead of copying the profiles of commercial dovetails (a box encouraged by the very term "dovetail"), look at the shoe you are making it for and consider how the clamp/screw engages and make a simple/convenient profile, like a simple step, that works with the target shoe. Stacking two flat bars might work, as well as any number of wood/light aluminum shape combo arrangements.




That's what I did (pics above).

-Tim.




And the fact that you did was what reminded me! Sorry of that was not clear!


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tim53
Postmaster
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Reged: 12/17/04

Loc: Highland Park, CA
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: careysub]
      #6233060 - 12/04/13 11:12 AM

No worries.

I like the round rod assembly idea too. I've also wondered about aluminum extrusions, like those sold at Rockler for making jigs and fences.

Tim


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don clement
Vendor (Clement Focuser)


Reged: 02/02/11

Loc: Running Springs, California
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: tim53]
      #6233121 - 12/04/13 11:42 AM

Quote:

No worries.

I like the round rod assembly idea too. I've also wondered about aluminum extrusions, like those sold at Rockler for making jigs and fences.

Tim




Tim,

I have been thinking of replacing the solid rods with lightweight aluminum tubing in the round rod rails. Two DIY parallel aluminum tubes could replace a solid machined dovetail assembly. Split clamps would be adjustable and rigid mounting. I was thinking already made bike saddle clamps could be modified to work with aluminum tubing.
http://www.amazon.com/XLC-Alloy-Seatpost-Clamp-31-8mm/dp/B000NUEJPO/ref=sr_1_...

Don

Dancing in the shallows of a river
Lovely moonchild
Dreaming in the shadow
Of the willow.


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Geo31
Pooh-Bah
*****

Reged: 01/28/13

Loc: Kingwood, TX
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: don clement]
      #6233168 - 12/04/13 12:13 PM

Quote:

Quote:

No worries.

I like the round rod assembly idea too. I've also wondered about aluminum extrusions, like those sold at Rockler for making jigs and fences.

Tim




Tim,

I have been thinking of replacing the solid rods with lightweight aluminum tubing in the round rod rails. Two DIY parallel aluminum tubes could replace a solid machined dovetail assembly. Split clamps would be adjustable and rigid mounting. I was thinking already made bike saddle clamps could be modified to work with aluminum tubing.
http://www.amazon.com/XLC-Alloy-Seatpost-Clamp-31-8mm/dp/B000NUEJPO/ref=sr_1_...

Don

Dancing in the shallows of a river
Lovely moonchild
Dreaming in the shadow
Of the willow.




Just be sure the ones you buy don't have a lip or you'll just have to remove it. That's what I did. Annoying.


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Geo31
Pooh-Bah
*****

Reged: 01/28/13

Loc: Kingwood, TX
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: don clement]
      #6233174 - 12/04/13 12:15 PM

Quote:

Quote:

This is a good reminder to "think outside the box" a bit.




I agree. The traditional dovetail is hard (or dangerous) to fabricate without a mill. How about round rod rail components as are used for linear bearing supports. E.g. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/350679192565?lpid=82

Don




Cool idea. How do you clamp it in place though?


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Geo31
Pooh-Bah
*****

Reged: 01/28/13

Loc: Kingwood, TX
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: tim53]
      #6233178 - 12/04/13 12:17 PM

Quote:

No worries.

I like the round rod assembly idea too. I've also wondered about aluminum extrusions, like those sold at Rockler for making jigs and fences.

Tim




I used a t-slot extrusion for the balance weights on my C8. Not hard to make, but also didn't save me enough money to be worth the extra work. By the time I bought the mounting hardware, the SS rod cut-offs (for the weights) and misc bits, I just wish I'd bought a used dovetail weight set-up.


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stmguy
sage


Reged: 10/11/12

Loc: Western NH
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: Geo31]
      #6233191 - 12/04/13 12:23 PM

I used my x-y table on my drill press to mill a dovetail out of aluminum for my LXD55. It came out pretty nice I think

Norm


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don clement
Vendor (Clement Focuser)


Reged: 02/02/11

Loc: Running Springs, California
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: Geo31]
      #6233260 - 12/04/13 12:45 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

This is a good reminder to "think outside the box" a bit.




I agree. The traditional dovetail is hard (or dangerous) to fabricate without a mill. How about round rod rail components as are used for linear bearing supports. E.g. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/350679192565?lpid=82

Don




Cool idea. How do you clamp it in place though?




I would clamp it in place with easily made (for me) split clamp blocks using the eccentric cam levers ripped from a bike seat clamp to tighten. But a DIY TN with a drill press and hacksaw could also make a split clamp blocks way easier and safer than using a table saw to fabricate traditional dovetails from solid aluminum. Also aluminum tube rails with split clamps could be made more lightweight than a solid aluminum dove tail plate and just as rigid.

Don


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nosmoke
super member


Reged: 11/06/13

Loc: Calgary, Alberta
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: Norm Meyer]
      #6285706 - 01/01/14 02:53 PM

Quote:

When the shipyard was building ships with an aluminum deck house I saw the mechanics cutting up to 2"
AL plate using Skil saws. They put the blades in backwards
and cut the AL almost like they were cutting wood.

Regards Norm




Norm, could you please elaborate a bit on how a backwards blade helps the cutting process.


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StarStuff1
Post Laureate
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Reged: 04/01/07

Loc: South of the Mason-Dixon Line
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: nosmoke]
      #6286496 - 01/01/14 09:32 PM

When I was working with a major retailer service dept a tech told me the same thing. I don't remember his explanation...only that I didn't want to try it out.

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nosmoke
super member


Reged: 11/06/13

Loc: Calgary, Alberta
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: StarStuff1]
      #6286526 - 01/01/14 09:52 PM

I ask because, lacking metal working tools (beyond a drill press and abrasive chop saw), I would like to try it. I have cut small Al angles & tubing on my radial arm but it's touchy, sounds bad and I'm guessing dulls the carbide fairly quickly(?). A case in point would be cutting the triangles and other parts for a mirror cell.

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piaras
professor emeritus


Reged: 01/26/09

Loc: Niagara Region
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: nosmoke]
      #6287548 - 01/02/14 12:52 PM

On page 1 there is an explanation of what to look for when buying blades for non ferrous use. I use my tablesaw with a blade rated for non ferrous metals. It is not reversed, just used in the regular way, same as when cutting wood.
Pierre


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don clement
Vendor (Clement Focuser)


Reged: 02/02/11

Loc: Running Springs, California
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: piaras]
      #6287684 - 01/02/14 01:53 PM

I use a 10" non-ferrous carbide blade on my chop saw. http://www.wholesalepowertools.com/freud-industrial-10-thin-stock-non-ferrous...
I haven't used the non-ferrous blade on my table saw though as I have a mill with a method of securely clamping aluminum down to the mill table or Vise. Also use soluble flood coolant with the mill. To me it would be pretty dicey cutting aluminum on a table saw. I am glad I have a mill and don't have to risk my life cutting aluminum on a table saw.

Don


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nosmoke
super member


Reged: 11/06/13

Loc: Calgary, Alberta
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: don clement]
      #6288002 - 01/02/14 04:12 PM

Don, what does the web site mean by "thin stock"? Could you cut 1/4" AL for instance? Also wondering approx. how many feet of 1/4" cut one could get from the blade b/f it dulls?

Thanks...


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Al8236
Pooh-Bah
*****

Reged: 08/18/10

Loc: 48.9173N 122.1390W
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: nosmoke]
      #6288348 - 01/02/14 07:52 PM

I have used a triple chip blade like the one that Don linked to and a power feed on the tablesaw to cut 1 1/4" AL for a total of about 6' total and it still cuts well.
I would not recomend doing this without a powerfeed and good hold downs however!


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Rustynuts
super member
*****

Reged: 07/25/11

Loc: East Tennessee
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: careysub]
      #6296756 - 01/06/14 07:35 PM

As soon as it warms up, I plan to cut some 2 inch aluminum plate.
I will be using my table saw with sled and holddown clamps, Then will finish on my mill, The right blade with the Table saw is much faster than other methods for this thick Aluminum.
Jon


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don clement
Vendor (Clement Focuser)


Reged: 02/02/11

Loc: Running Springs, California
Re: Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way new [Re: nosmoke]
      #6296887 - 01/06/14 08:50 PM

Quote:

Don, what does the web site mean by "thin stock"? Could you cut 1/4" AL for instance? Also wondering approx. how many feet of 1/4" cut one could get from the blade b/f it dulls? Thanks...





The chop saw with 10" carbide non-ferrous blade easily cut through 3" solid rounds. The Freud 10" carbide non-ferrous blade lasts a long time before needing re-sharpening. I use a solid wax stick for lubrication. The real problem is holding the aluminum and I rigged my own vise. Even so cutting aluminum with the chopsaw is loud and pretty scary.

Nowdays I use a 7 x 12 bandsaw with Lennox 4-6 tpi bimetal blade using flood coolant for cutting up to 7" aluminum rounds held in the built-in vise. (note the Labjack )I also cut 1/2" aluminum plate freehand in the vertical mode and saw table mounted. In the vertical mode when freehand bandsawing I use a Vortec Model 610 cold air gun for cooling. http://www.vortec.com/c-9-cold-air-guns.aspx 1/2" aluminum plate cuts just like wood in the vertical mode and has no kickback as it would with a table saw. I value my limbs and life too much to cut aluminum plate on a table saw when the bandsaw with 4-6 tpi blade cuts safely and quick. YMMV

Don



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