Return to the Cloudy Nights Telescope Reviews home pageAstronomics discounts for Cloudy Nights members
· Get a Cloudy Nights T-Shirt · Submit a Review / Article

Click here if you are having trouble logging into the forums

Privacy Policy | Please read our Terms of Service | Signup and Troubleshooting FAQ | Problems? PM a Red or a Green Gu… uh, User

Equipment Discussions >> Classic Telescopes

Pages: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | (show all)
Geo31
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 01/28/13

Loc: Kingwood, TX
Re: Couple Restoration Questions new [Re: dgreyson]
      #6342171 - 01/29/14 12:26 AM

Regarding the imperfections, I'm going to look to automotive restorations for examples (they are far more plentiful and much better documented). Please bear with me because my answer may get a little long.

A great many automotive restorations come out far better than any car of the type that ever rolled off the assembly line. Personally, on one hand I can appreciate the attentive care the cars were given, but they are, IMHO over-restored. In my mind, they have gone far past a restoration. They are simply TOO good.

In recent years there has been greater appreciation of survivors. Most survivors are simply cleaned and polished. The patina of the ages, and the imperfections from the factory are valued. While I've never been one to value recreating factory imperfections or other wear, IMHO saving as much originality as possible (including imperfections) is more desirable, even if this includes some wear items.

Now, strictly speaking, your scope is not a survivor. It needs too much help to qualify for that. But, the question is how far to go?

I'm going off-topic just a bit here, but signs of loving use IMHO should be preserved if possible. That is not, however, the topic of this conversation, so my apologies for going off-topic a bit.

So, all this said, it's your scope. You, and only you get to decide where to take this. You HAVE to decide now. Do you prefer the "perfection" look, or do you prefer an "original" look? Answer that question and you have the answer to your question above.


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
HBNorm
super member
*****

Reged: 08/24/12

Loc: Huntington Beach, CA
Re: Couple Restoration Questions new [Re: Geo31]
      #6342289 - 01/29/14 02:48 AM

Gregg and George, great points. I'm going to take a combo course...rat rod meets concourse trailer queen. I'm going to keep the legs as is to represent the type of product received by customers at the time but all surfaces will be cleaned of rust and chipped paint and finished in powder coat for durability. I'll make a few subtle usability tweeks (e.g., modern focuser, better casters, etc.), but for the most part it will look restored stock. I live by the beach so durable materials and finishes are critical for me.

Thanks for your input guys.

Norm


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
HBNorm
super member
*****

Reged: 08/24/12

Loc: Huntington Beach, CA
Cleaning the DEC and RA shafts new [Re: HBNorm]
      #6342295 - 01/29/14 02:58 AM Attachment (9 downloads)

Cleaning the DEC and RA shafts

I took my first pass at cleaning up box axes. I used a fine file to take off any burrs from the set screws and wet sanded the rusty or rough areas. Anyone know how aggressive I can get to remove the rust on the counterweight portion of the shaft. It was deeply rusted. The included shot shows were I'm at in removing the rust. My concern is that I'm almost a tenth of a millimeter narrower where I've been sanding I guess the weights go here so it's not hypercritical but still, I don't want wobbly parts either...

Norm


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
turk123
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 07/09/10

Loc: N.E. Ohio
Re: Cleaning the DEC and RA shafts new [Re: HBNorm]
      #6342399 - 01/29/14 05:16 AM

Quote:

Cleaning the DEC and RA shafts

I took my first pass at cleaning up box axes. I used a fine file to take off any burrs from the set screws and wet sanded the rusty or rough areas. Anyone know how aggressive I can get to remove the rust on the counterweight portion of the shaft. It was deeply rusted. The included gshot shows were I'm at in removing the rust. My concern is that I'm almost a tenth of a millimeter narrower where I've been sanding I guess the weights go here so it's not hypercritical but still, I don't want wobbly parts either...

Norm




I myself say "sand away". The shaft on my Cass was pitted an gouged up quite bad. You can even use a sander on it lightly. The amount you are taking off is insignificant to the counterweights. Did your counter weights have separate collars for safety? At least one for the end of the shaft? "Toe savers" I believe they call them!


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Geo31
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 01/28/13

Loc: Kingwood, TX
Re: Cleaning the DEC and RA shafts new [Re: turk123]
      #6342462 - 01/29/14 06:37 AM

Before you sand too much, use some Never Dull on the shafts. It will take some elbow grease, but you may be surprised at the results.

Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
sgorton99
Post Laureate
*****

Reged: 04/30/08

Loc: Wisconsin, Madison
Re: Cleaning the DEC and RA shafts new [Re: Geo31]
      #6342480 - 01/29/14 07:06 AM Attachment (12 downloads)

I agree with turk on the elbow grease. Some have also suggested at the end using that jelly stuff to "kill" the rust in the fine pits. Here is a before shot...

Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
sgorton99
Post Laureate
*****

Reged: 04/30/08

Loc: Wisconsin, Madison
Re: Cleaning the DEC and RA shafts new [Re: sgorton99]
      #6342481 - 01/29/14 07:07 AM Attachment (11 downloads)

And an after...

Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Chuck HardsModerator
Post Laureate
*****

Reged: 05/03/10

Loc: The Great Basin
Re: Cleaning the DEC and RA shafts new [Re: sgorton99]
      #6342535 - 01/29/14 08:07 AM

I have access to industrial products you can't buy at Walmart or the auto parts store.

For rusted metal I use TR-500 and an ultra-fine Scotchbrite pad. TR-500 is resin cleaner & sealer. Works wonders, and the Scotchbrite isn't as abrasive as sanding. I've used this combination on heavily rusted chrome car parts and had them come out looking like new. Same with mount shafting.

It also leaves behind a protective 'glaze' that inhibits further rusting better than oils or conventional waxes.

http://www.trindustries.com/


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
HBNorm
super member
*****

Reged: 08/24/12

Loc: Huntington Beach, CA
Re: Cleaning the DEC and RA shafts new [Re: Chuck Hards]
      #6342796 - 01/29/14 10:42 AM

Thanks for the photos guys. Chuck, how can I score some of that TR-500 locally? I'm in Huntington Beach, California. I was wondering what I could use to inhibit rust once I'm done. I was planning on oiling it occassionally but that would also attract dust/dirt.

Let me know.

Thanks!

Norm


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Chuck HardsModerator
Post Laureate
*****

Reged: 05/03/10

Loc: The Great Basin
Re: Cleaning the DEC and RA shafts new [Re: HBNorm]
      #6342816 - 01/29/14 10:53 AM

Quote:

Thanks for the photos guys. Chuck, how can I score some of that TR-500 locally? I'm in Huntington Beach, California. I was wondering what I could use to inhibit rust once I'm done. I was planning on oiling it occassionally but that would also attract dust/dirt.

Let me know.

Thanks!

Norm




Norm, you'll have to contact them and find out who your local distributor is. It should be readily available in your neck of the woods, I'm in the middle of nowhere.

Good old automotive wax keeps the rust at bay as well, once polished up, but the TR-500 seems to last longer between applications.


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
HBNorm
super member
*****

Reged: 08/24/12

Loc: Huntington Beach, CA
Parts are ready for finishing! new [Re: Chuck Hards]
      #6343153 - 01/29/14 01:34 PM Attachment (12 downloads)

The mount parts are ready for finishing! I'm taking the dec axis piece to a gear shop to see if they can safely pull the bearings first. Then off to bead blasting and powder coating! The mirrors are going to L&L Optical today as well for stripping and recoating with an enhanced finish.

I'll start working on the tube evenings this week. I plan to only polish and wax the outside and not remove the rings. The rotating rings are in great condition with minimal scratches. I have to sand and repaint the interior though. I plan to prime and paint it with exterior latex applied via roller (e.g., Killz primer and flat black external latex). Is that okay for this type of application? Spray painting would be next to impossible due to the length of the tube. I figured if a latex paint can last 20 years on a house, why not in the inside of the OTA? Let me know if I'm crazy!!!

Thanks again for all of your guidance.

Norm

Edited by HBNorm (01/29/14 01:46 PM)


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
turk123
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 07/09/10

Loc: N.E. Ohio
Re: Parts are ready for finishing! new [Re: HBNorm]
      #6343300 - 01/29/14 02:50 PM

Great Idea Norm to use a vertical roller to paint the inside! Make sure you tape up the holes on the outside!

I would consider taking the rings off. Someone here suggested talcum powder to slip the rings off without damaging the gelcoat. It will be a lot easier to clean and polish. Just make sure you mark each ring and each whole and the direction they go on. These things were fit by hand and will line up only one way. It's a pain if you don't mark them. Ask me how I know?

I reached into several of my tubes to spray paint them. One of those things you want to get in and out real quick!


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
tim53
Postmaster
*****

Reged: 12/17/04

Loc: Highland Park, CA
Re: Parts are ready for finishing! new [Re: turk123]
      #6344321 - 01/29/14 11:34 PM

I was "the paintin' fool" at Meade in 78-79. We used a broomstick with a cheap paintbrush screwed onto it at a 90° angle and the handle cut off. I could paint a tube for an 826 in less than 3 minutes.

-Tim.


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
HBNorm
super member
*****

Reged: 08/24/12

Loc: Huntington Beach, CA
Re: Parts are ready for finishing! new [Re: tim53]
      #6344408 - 01/30/14 12:47 AM

Quote:

I was "the paintin' fool" at Meade in 78-79. We used a broomstick with a cheap paintbrush screwed onto it at a 90° angle and the handle cut off. I could paint a tube for an 826 in less than 3 minutes.

-Tim.




Nice visual!

The mirrors are at L&L optical for an enhanced aluminized coating. Richard said that the primary doesn't look like pyrex due to it's dark yellow color. He was saying that this was a low expansion glass like Zerodur. All I could find on Cave was that they used Pyrex, so I wonder what's up with that...

Final quote from powder coat was twice as much as initial quote once everything was apart and finishes selected. As such, I'm moving to Plan B. I just picked up a small sandblasting booth from Harbor Freight for $100. I'll try my hand at bead blasting and will paint everything myself. Two things:

1) Wrinkle Coat: Eastwood the best option?

2) Silver color: On closer inspection, it doesn't look like a hammer finish, just silver. However, the silver they used has a green tint to it. The powder coat color that we matched was "Iron Glimmer Effect" "P4 Glimmer." I'm wondering if there's a close match in spray cans.

I have etching primer so I'm almost ready to go!

Norm


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
HBNorm
super member
*****

Reged: 08/24/12

Loc: Huntington Beach, CA
Re: Parts are ready for finishing! new [Re: turk123]
      #6344411 - 01/30/14 12:50 AM

Quote:

Great Idea Norm to use a vertical roller to paint the inside! Make sure you tape up the holes on the outside!

I would consider taking the rings off. Someone here suggested talcum powder to slip the rings off without damaging the gelcoat. It will be a lot easier to clean and polish. Just make sure you mark each ring and each whole and the direction they go on. These things were fit by hand and will line up only one way. It's a pain if you don't mark them. Ask me how I know?

I reached into several of my tubes to spray paint them. One of those things you want to get in and out real quick!




Turk,

Thanks for your insights. I think I will dismantle the OTA completely. Any advice on how to remove the spider? I removed it but didn't like how much I had to flex the spider to get it out. I don't wan't to scratch up the OTA or damage the spider putting it back in.

Thanks again!

Norm


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Datapanic
Post Laureate
*****

Reged: 10/17/09

Loc: Tucson, Arizona
Re: Parts are ready for finishing! new [Re: HBNorm]
      #6344441 - 01/30/14 01:31 AM

I've used Eastwood, Krylon and Rustoleum's Black Wrinkle paint. Rustoleum is the best - it gives the most consistent coating of the 3 brands. The "high temp" versions of Krylon and Rustoleum work better than their regular paints.

No matter which brand you choose, practice on a piece of scrap first that includes using primer and note the humidity and temperature.

I have had the best results with 2 coats of Rustoleum Dark Grey primer, about 5 minutes apart, then waiting 15 minutes and applying 3 heavy coats of the Rustoleum wrinkle paint after 15 minutes with each coat 200 seconds apart. The timing is that critical. It usually takes 2 or 3 cans to do it all.


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
turk123
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 07/09/10

Loc: N.E. Ohio
Re: Parts are ready for finishing! [Re: HBNorm]
      #6344685 - 01/30/14 08:39 AM

Quote:

Quote:

Great Idea Norm to use a vertical roller to paint the inside! Make sure you tape up the holes on the outside!

I would consider taking the rings off. Someone here suggested talcum powder to slip the rings off without damaging the gelcoat. It will be a lot easier to clean and polish. Just make sure you mark each ring and each whole and the direction they go on. These things were fit by hand and will line up only one way. It's a pain if you don't mark them. Ask me how I know?

I reached into several of my tubes to spray paint them. One of those things you want to get in and out real quick!




Turk,

Thanks for your insights. I think I will dismantle the OTA completely. Any advice on how to remove the spider? I removed it but didn't like how much I had to flex the spider to get it out. I don't wan't to scratch up the OTA or damage the spider putting it back in.

Thanks again!
E
Norm




If I remember, I flexed the tube and walked it in little steps at a time. You can touch up the paint later.

So you found out the expense of powder coat! Painting will be just fine and unlike powdercoat, you can touch it up later.


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Chuck HardsModerator
Post Laureate
*****

Reged: 05/03/10

Loc: The Great Basin
Re: Parts are ready for finishing! [Re: turk123]
      #6344690 - 01/30/14 08:42 AM

If you have a paint gun and compressor at home, don't discount catalyzed automotive paint. Cheaper than powder coating, more money than rattle can, but extremely durable and a greater color selection for matching purposes.

Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
turk123
Carpal Tunnel
*****

Reged: 07/09/10

Loc: N.E. Ohio
Re: Parts are ready for finishing! [Re: turk123]
      #6344701 - 01/30/14 08:52 AM

As for color, I would choose the color you like. It is nice to use the exact paint that is on the mount, but remember, cave sometimes bought paint (next door at a paint store) just because it was available at a good price. Colors varied a lot. I would not get caught up with "grey tinted green" if you don't like it. I preferred a darker gray with my Cass.I bought that color only too find out after taking layers of light blue and light gray paint off, almost the exact dark gray underneath it all. I might shy away from florescent purple if you want an accurate restoration.

Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
TCW
Pooh-Bah


Reged: 11/05/13

Loc: The North 40
Re: Parts are ready for finishing! *DELETED* [Re: HBNorm]
      #6345198 - 01/30/14 01:39 PM

Post deleted by TCW

Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Pages: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | (show all)


Extra information
23 registered and 16 anonymous users are browsing this forum.

Moderator:  Rich (RLTYS), Brian Risley, Chuck Hards 

Print Thread

Forum Permissions
      You cannot start new topics
      You cannot reply to topics
      HTML is disabled
      UBBCode is enabled


Thread views: 5018

Jump to

CN Forums Home


Cloudy Nights LLC
Cloudy Nights Sponsor: Astronomics