Olivier Biot
Amused
Reged: 04/25/05
Posts: 14005
Loc: 51°N (Belgium)
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How about sharing some DSO observing techniques?
Let's start with the easiest technique: averted vision.
Technique: averted vision
Applicable to: all deep-sky objects
Ease: very easy
Effect: significant to dramatic improvement
Equipment: none
Averted vision is a visual observing technique that makes use of the fact that our eyes are not as sensitive to light where we see the best detail. When looking directly at an object, more detail can be seen, but when looking a bit away from the target you trade in resolving power for brightness. Every eye being different, the direction in which you have to look for perceiving this brightening at best is different. To find it, roll your eyes while observing a DSO - a bright globular usually shows a very dramatic improvement.
The technique of averted vision is the most widely used technique for observing faint targets. It can be used in combination with virtually every other visual observing technique.
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Tal-200K (#199) with JMI NGF-Mini2M focuser on GEM3 • Astro-Tech AT80ED on Orion Sirius EQ-G with EQDIR & home made wireless EQDIRECT • Celestron Regal LX 8x42 & 10x42 • Helios 15x70
ATM 14" f/5 (designing mirror cell and filter wheel/focuser) • ATM 10" f/6 Portable Truss (polishing) • ATM 10" f/25 Dall-Kirkham (primary: polishing, secondary: #120 grit)
AstroForecast
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Josh U
member
Reged: 07/10/07
Posts: 40
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Well, I'm not sure if it's a technique or not, but I always use my star chart to see EXACTLY where I'm supposed to be looking. "Lawn Mowing" always frustrates me. I like to zoom in from Telrad, to finder, to low power telescopic views. It's a little system I've developed for myself, and it works great for me!
Then there's always the slight movement of the scope (bumping it) to make the target stand out.
Steve O'Mera says it's important to breathe deeply!
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"How you do anything is how you do everything."
Zhumell 10" dob
80mm Refractor
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John Kocijanski
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 08/22/03
Posts: 1462
Loc: Monticello, NY
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Nice start. Averted vision is very important. How about using higher power to darken the sky a bit to make some DSOs stand out better. Another tip from Sue French in the August Sky and Telescope is to use higher power on globular clusters and planetary nebula to bring out more detail.
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John
Deep Space Observer 10 * SPC-8 * C102 HD f/10 * XT 4.5 * AT1010N * PST *
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 rodelaet
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 04/28/06
Posts: 2386
Loc: 50°56' N - 4°58' E (Belgium)
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Here is a picture I made to represent the sweet spot of averted vision, for a right eye observer, followed by a picture to represent the sweet spot for binocular users. ( Here is the whole post. ) A left eye observer can mirror the picture. To keep things simple : put the object between your center of view and your nose. While using the sweet spot, one can see up to 3 magnitudes fainter than with direct vision.
I did not find it an easy technique when I started observing. I had to learn to use averted vision to its full potential.
About the diagram : it represents the distribution of the optical receptors on the human retina; the yellow zone represents the density of the cones. The blue zone shows the density of the rods. The white zone is the blind spot, and should be avoided. The grey oval shows the sweet spot. Bear in mind that each observer can have other results, but in general , the diagram works for most people.
To give you an idea of the angular distances : your hand with fingers open measures about 20° at arms length. A simple test : stretch your right arm, and open your hand (like when waving hello) so that thumb and little finger are at max separation. Close your left eye (no, the other left eye  ). Look with your right eye at your little finger. Your averted vision sweet spot is now where the thumb is. Now look at your thumb. Your little finger is now where the blind spot is, and can dissapear when you wiggle your hand a little bit. If you keep these angular distances in mind while you observe, averted vision can be easier to learn.
Binocular and binoviewer users build up an image of both eyes with two blind spots and two grey ovals. These observers can shift their gaze above or under the center of view, so that the object of interest is positioned in one of the two gray ovals, thus avoiding the blind spot in each eye. See the right diagram.
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Rony
My Astronomy Sketches
My Binocular Sketches
Edited by rodelaet (07/13/08 01:44 PM)
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galaxyman
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 04/04/05
Posts: 1110
Loc: Limerick, Pa
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Quote:
Nice start. Averted vision is very important. How about using higher power to darken the sky a bit to make some DSOs stand out better. Another tip from Sue French in the August Sky and Telescope is to use higher power on globular clusters and planetary nebula to bring out more detail.
Yep...averted vision (even scanning) is one technique.
Also be a pirate...meaning use a eye patch. Makes it much easier and more comfortable to view. Helps in baffling fatigue also.
Don’t be a one-eyed pirate…meaning alternate eyes. If you have fairly decent vision in both eyes, switch eyes at the eyepiece. This will also battle fatigue.
Be a one-eyed hooded pirate...meaning baffling stray light around you and the eyepiece. Some use this technique with great results, though fogging the eyepiece can happen with this.
Be a one-eyed hooded pirate that likes to travel…if necessary. Meaning finding or observing from the darkest site possible, will be a huge advantage on deep sky observing. Even slightly darker skies then your backyard will produce big dividends.
Yes, higher power is something I been saying for years and years (actually decades and decades).
DSO’s as a whole should not be subject to what some might call “optimum magnification”, for many variables exist. Such as sky conditions (both seeing and transparency), scope condition (optics, collimation), object (size, magnitude, surface brightness), and of course the observer himself.
I like to push the power for most objects...particularly galaxies, planetary nebula, tight globs. Even large nebula like M-42 can reveal great detail using more than just low power.
Know that each object has its own character. For instance one galaxy may look best (detail included) in my 22” at 200x, while another may require 400x or more.
So when a certain galaxy per say is in view, I will continue step by step to push the power. In many instances detail will start to emerge. Even on nights where seeing is only fair, I’ll still push the power a bit.
Many times on these type of nights, seeing will settle for moments of time, this is where patience is good to have at the eyepiece (heck, that should apply at all times). So when those moments come, many times detail will pop or emerge.
My two main scopes are the 22” dob, and the 8” refractor. Both scopes I have (and will) continue to push the envelope. In fact last year, I really pushed the big refractor while observing many ARP’s.
I was amazed on the detail I could see on many of them, so technique can go a long way on what can be seen.
Oh, I need to say some of my best views ever was with the 22” dob on M-82 and M-104 at 715x to 1002x, using Naglers 3.5mm and 2.5mm respectively. The views were Hubblesque!!!
Karl
E.O.H.
Chesmont Astronomical Society
Telekit (Swayze optics) 22" F/4.5 Dob
Homemade (Parks Optics) 12.5" F/4.8 Dob
TMB 8" F/9 Refractor(The Beast)
Astrozap 6" f/8 Refractor
Orion 4" f/6 Refractor
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So many galaxies, so little time!
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SaberScorpX
Post Laureate
Reged: 01/12/05
Posts: 4077
Loc: illinois, usa
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re: breathe deeply...
Deeply and slowly. In addition, take time to stretch or go for a short walk at least every hour. Keeping the blood and oxygen pumping increases eye/brain performance at the eyepiece.
Wearing sunglasses during the day gives a major boost to expedite full dark adaptation before a big hunt. Many nights when fainter targets appear to leap out from the EP start with this simple pre-game preparation.
Saber Does The Stars at
www.astronomyblogs.com/member/saberscorpx/
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Mr Q
sage
Reged: 02/25/08
Posts: 281
Loc: N Central New Mexico
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I heard of this tip and have tried it with success -
Before going to the eyepiece, take several deep breaths, which pushes extra O2 to the brain, which enhances vision.
On the same account, try not to stop breathing when straining to see a detail or faint fuzzy. Breath but exhale slowly while trying for the object.
Should go without saying - no smoking or alcohol consuption for several hours before observing.
Be careful not to hyperventilate while using the above tip otherwise dizziness or possible fainting can occur. The o2 saturation point is easily reached and any further deep breathing would be counter-productive.
Mr Q
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What goes around, comes around, eventually.
Meade DS-10(10" newt)
10x50, 10x70 binos
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moron392
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 08/20/07
Posts: 799
Loc: Charlotte, NC
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use controlled, slow breathing to concentrate on your target more fully
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"If you've done something right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
http://www.freewebs.com/moron392/index.htm
60mm meade ngc60 refractor.
Meade 70AZ-TR (short one)
50mm homemade refractor (occasionally with a solar filter)
starblast4.5EQ
6mm,15mm expanse eyepieces
9mm meade Mh eyepiece,17.5mm Meade MA
nikon 7x35's
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Phillip Creed
Idiot Seeking Village
Reged: 07/25/06
Posts: 958
Loc: NE Ohio
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One of my best investments was buying a pair of overcorrected eyeglasses. This is because if you have myopia, it becomes slightly worse during nighttime vs. daylight hours. These "O'Meara" glasses give me about an extra 0.3-mag boost with the naked-eye, and seem to help a bit at the eyepiece, too, though not as much.
Clear Skies,
Phil
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"Why suffer from insanity when you can revel in it?"
Wilderness Center Astronomy Club member since 1995
ICQ Comet Observer Code: CRE01
*****
3 Eyepieces
2 Telescopes
1 Binocular Pair
*****
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galaxyman
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 04/04/05
Posts: 1110
Loc: Limerick, Pa
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Quote:
Wearing sunglasses during the day gives a major boost to expedite full dark adaptation before a big hunt. Many nights when fainter targets appear to leap out from the EP start with this simple pre-game preparation.
Yep, everyone should wear a decent pair of sunglasses when outside during the day 
Karl
E.O.H.
Chesmont Astronomical Society
Telekit (Swayze optics) 22" F/4.5 Dob
Homemade (Parks Optics) 12.5" F/4.8 Dob
TMB 8" F/9 Refractor(The Beast)
Astrozap 6" f/8 Refractor
Orion 4" f/6 Refractor
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So many galaxies, so little time!
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stevek
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 04/16/06
Posts: 1170
Loc: west michigan
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Averted vision... I use it so much/so readily, I dont even know I do it any more  ...
When I am really studying a DSO, I will change EPs frequently. I tend to run the circuit from 40X-56X-92X-200X-300X back and forth, spending 3-5 minutes at each mag, often trying several EPs a 2nd & 3rd time. Then I will revert to the one that gave me my fav view and stay there for another 5 minutes or so. Sometimes I will add and then remove the narrowband filter also. I think this process helps me get a better perspective and helps me build a clearer picture of what I am looking at. FWIW, I do this on large targets like M17 and M31 as well as small ones like M104 & NGC 6543.
Steve
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DSO 8" f6 DOB w/ 8x50 RACI & 2"Crayford
1958 Sears Discoverer 76mm Refractor
GSO SV 30mm 2",21mm Hyp,13mm Strat,BO/TMB ver2-6mm & 4mm
1.25"Filters: DGM-NPB, 25%ND
1.25" plossls: 25mm,20mm,15mm,9mm
Orion 2X Shorty Barlow
Garrett Gemini LW 11x56mm binocs
BTG-10 4.0mW green laser pointer
"What is that burning in the sky? Tell me y'all..." Jeff Beck/Jan Hammer
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dengwer
member
Reged: 02/14/06
Posts: 94
Loc: Texas
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EYEPATCH OVER OBSERVING EYE WHEN NOT AT SCOPE. I use the "eyepatch-hood" technique when at the scope. Before getting out of the hood I switch the patch to my oberving eye to conserve the dark adaption and then can look at charts or whatever without worrying about too much light. I put my glasses over the eyepatch and can read the charts very well with one eye. I put the patch on the observing eye an hour before observing to get dark adapted.
David
Edited by dengwer (07/14/08 12:06 PM)
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Jeff Morgan
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 09/28/03
Posts: 1398
Loc: Prescott, AZ
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A couple of techniques I use for the low surface brightness objects:
- Rock the tube slightly when over the suspected target. The motion helps to identify.
- Check your atlas to see if there are stars that lay along or near the edge of the target. Also, look for stars that can define an area or box that contain the target.
- My favorite is to try and find dark nebula or just dark areas that define edges of the object. After spending several minutes focused on the the darkest part(s) of the field, all of the sudden the object becomes obvious and sometimes easy.
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Jeff Morgan
Prescott, AZ
Wile E. Coyote School of Telescope Making
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Jeff Young
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 08/04/05
Posts: 2933
Loc: Ireland
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More on motion...
For really difficult targets, try different types of motion. Sometimes slewing slowing over the field will highlight a brightness gradient, while sometimes a more vibratory motion will help more (I used to tap the side of the tube, but my current instrument is so heavy that tapping the tube doesn't do much so I now tap the side of the diagonal).
I *think* I've found that slow motion usually works better with well-extended targets, while vibratory works better with smaller targets or very dim point sources. But more study is needed.
Orientation
Some targets will appear in averted vision seldom enough that you're not sure if you're seeing something or not. Try rotating the diagonal to change the orientation of the image and see if the object pops in/out at the same location. (Obviously this one doesn't work so well for Newts.)
Magnification, seeing, and "the wait"
I'm not a huge planetary observer, but I have developed a particular style. First I determine what magnification the current seeing will support. Then I bump it up one or two steps (25 - 40%). The image gets rather mushy. Next, I stare at the image for about 10 minutes. (I find this much easier to do with a binoviewer, and quite hard with a single eyepiece.) During that 10 minutes, if I bumped one step then I'm likely to get 3 or 4 moments, each perhaps 1/2 second to 2 seconds, in which the seeing settles and the image gets very crisp. If I bumped two steps, I'm about 50/50 likely to get a single moment. Then I take a break and do it all over again.
It's time-consuming, but the detail available in those few moments is well beyond what is available more-or-less constantly with lower magnification.
Cheers,
-- Jeff.
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Nikon 18x70s / UA Millennium Colorado:
Solarscope SF70 / TV Pronto / AP400QMD Coronado SolarMax40 DS / Bogen 055+3130
APM MC1610 / Tak FC-100 / AP1200GTO Tak Mewlon 250 / AP600EGTO
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MessierScott
super member
Reged: 06/18/07
Posts: 159
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Most of you have already covered my helpful ideas.
-averted vision
-wearing an eyepatch over the non-observing eye
-wear good dark sunglasses during the daytime
-use a little scope-shake
-high magnification
-a good detailed atlas
-keep breathing and don't hold your breath straining to see an object
-keep hydrated
-take breaks to walk around and refresh your body
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Scott Kranz
20-inch f/4.3 Starmaster w/Zambuto mirror, Feathertouch focuser, GO TO & tracking
7-inch Starmaster
H-alpha Coronado PST
Denkmeier II binoviewers w/24mm Panoptics
16x80 binos
Astronomical Society of Kansas City
Astronomical League Messier, Meteor, Sunspotter, & Asteroid Observing Programs Coordinator
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astrokido
super member
Reged: 06/09/08
Posts: 154
Loc: Phoenix, AZ
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There's also astrophotography, you can always bring out more with film or ccd than a retina.
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- Gill C. - All opinions subject to a speed limit of 299,792,458 m/s.
Nikon D40 - Bushnell 10x25 - Zhumell 20x80 - Celestron Cometron CO-100
skyatlas.rgbstore.com - cool sky charts, photo overlays, and data tables
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Mr. Bill
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 02/09/05
Posts: 2487
Loc: Just passing through.....
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Make sure that Happy Hour ends early....say 4 o'clock when you plan on observing that night and a nap also helps.
After new moon, I generally catch a nap in the evening and get up after moonset. The best seeing and darkness is around 2:00 AM out my way, so this works out great.
I try to stay on two hours either side of the meridian as this is putting objects in the best position and out of the muck.
Also, my observing technique is sweeping the area of interest alternately in both directions using an alt azimuth mount and when something of interest shows up, I look at the position through the Telrad and then look it up on the SkyAtlas or Uranometria if I don't know what it is.
I've "discovered" several comets this way which made for momentary excitement until they were identified.
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Mr. Bill
Oberwerk 100BT 45 degree + Hercules fork mount
15x70 AP binos + Paragon p-mount
120mm f/5 Orion achromat + Moonlite focuser
140mm f/5.7 Vixen NeoAchro Petzvel refractor
150mm f/6.5 Antares achromat
150mm f/8 "bent" homemade achromat
8 inch Orion newt with f/5 Swayze mirror
10 inch f/4.7 Orion newt + Paracorr
15 inch f/5 Discovery split tube
26mm Nagler, 17mm Nagler, 13mm Ethos, 8mm Ethos
Member IDA
"Life's too short to look through "almost as good" eyepieces"
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JohanK
super member
Reged: 05/21/07
Posts: 157
Loc: Ghent, Belgium
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Another useful technique is observing with a bunch of uninterested teenagers. If you're lucky they will blow cigarette smoke over the telescope's opening to assist in seeing nebulosity.
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Johan
Orion XT10
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xfile101
professor emeritus
Reged: 12/08/07
Posts: 722
Loc: Ocean Gate, NJ
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Before I got my Dob I really didn't know how much this "technique" really helped viewing but.............SIT DOWN (preferable in a chair  ) while observing. Your back will thank you and you are much steadier in a seated position as opposed to standing. Actually standing is the least stable of all positions (anybody who hunts will tell you this).
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Jeff Young
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 08/04/05
Posts: 2933
Loc: Ireland
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Yeah, I forgot that one: for me sitting down is second in importance to averted vision (and #1 for planetary).
-- Jeff.
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Nikon 18x70s / UA Millennium Colorado:
Solarscope SF70 / TV Pronto / AP400QMD Coronado SolarMax40 DS / Bogen 055+3130
APM MC1610 / Tak FC-100 / AP1200GTO Tak Mewlon 250 / AP600EGTO
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desertstars
Say What?
Reged: 11/05/03
Posts: 28624
Loc: Tucson, AZ
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I do most of what is listed above: staying hydrated, keeping the blood sugar levels steady, sitting comfortably (staying warm or cool enough, relative to the season), and breathing. Ditto averted vision and experimenting with eyepieces to find the magnification that works best on a given object under the current conditions.
I also take a lot of time observing. Once I've more or less settled on an eyepiece (and I don't always settle on just one) for viewing an object, I relax and observe. How long depends on the object, but I doubt I generally give even a faintly fuzzy galaxy less than ten minutes. Rich open clusters or a complicated bright nebula might keep me going for half an hour or more. For such, I break it up by getting up, stretching, walking around and talking to other folks when I'm at a star party. Then I sit back down and compare what I see with the previous impressions. It's usually at this point that I make a sketch of what I'm observing. Making the sketch doesn't use up much time; getting to where I'm confident of what I'm seeing does. It's not unusual for me to observe far into the wee hours of the next morning and observe only seven or eight objects. (The most I've done in one night was twelve - not counting Messier Marathons, of course.)
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Tom W.
SVP8 'She turned me into a 3-legged Newt' EQ
Ralph, the All-Purpose 102mm Refractor
Under the Desert Stars
It is a plain road from the earth to the stars though mortal feet can not tread it. Garret P. Serviss 1888
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Lard Greystoke
member
Reged: 07/27/08
Posts: 72
Loc: Ohio
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Be sure to eat your vegetables, including vitamin A sources.
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Lard Greystoke
10" Odyssey Compact
"With Tantor, the elephant, he made friends. How? Ask me not."
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GlennLeDrew
sage
Reged: 06/18/08
Posts: 286
Loc: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Use eyepieces with large apparent fields. The larger, low contrast objects are better framed and hence detected, and more of your sensitive outer retina is utilized.
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Home-made 11X50 right angle bino, 8.1 deg. FOV
Modified 26X100 bino, 3.5 deg. FOV
Mediocre minds discuss people. Good minds discuss events. Great minds discuss ideas.
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AZStarGuy
super member
Reged: 05/05/08
Posts: 149
Loc: Scottsdale AZ
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Fresh clean pair of contacts when I go to dark sky sites - minimizes scatter from protein & fat deposits usually found degrading the old ones. I'll even take my contacts out for a few hours before observing just to give my eyes a break. I also bring re-wetting drops. I tend to get dry eyes in AZ when observing. Probably because I'm not blinking as much.
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Ron
8" f6 Eq Newt
24PAN, 13T6,7T1,6RAD,5RAD,4 & 3.2 Planetaries
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rogerandgarf
super member
Reged: 06/01/05
Posts: 184
Loc: Arlington, Wa
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I utilize a quality brand of bilberry supplement to aid in reducing general, overall eye fatigue...works well for me.
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Roger Johnson
12" upgraded Dob
TV Genesis/LXD75
5" Mak
Denk II BVs/x switch
Swarovski 7x42, Leica 10x50,
Fuji 16x70, Obie 25x100 IF/Unimount
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Jeff Morgan
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 09/28/03
Posts: 1398
Loc: Prescott, AZ
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Quote:
I utilize a quality brand of bilberry supplement to aid in reducing general, overall eye fatigue...works well for me.
I read about that being used by the RAF during WWII. Apparently the US Navy or Air Force studied it and found no benefit. However, I figured it can't hurt and I take the supplement too.
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Jeff Morgan
Prescott, AZ
Wile E. Coyote School of Telescope Making
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mv1000
member
Reged: 05/27/07
Posts: 82
Loc: WI
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If using a dob, use light baffles. Most dobs don't have enough extension of the tube on the front. And the back of the truss dobs are typically wide open. Using a darker shroud that blocks more light helps too. It doesn't make a huge differance, but any little bit helps.
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Starmaster 14.5 Hybrid
TV 60
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GlennLeDrew
sage
Reged: 06/18/08
Posts: 286
Loc: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Narrow band filters, such as the UHC, O-III and H-beta, are more like mirrors than anything else (they reflect MUCH more light than they transmit), so be sure to keep stray light from getting *into* the eyepiece from behind and to your sides by using some kind of shroud. This is most important for eyepieces having long eye relief and/or large diameter eye lenses.
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Home-made 11X50 right angle bino, 8.1 deg. FOV
Modified 26X100 bino, 3.5 deg. FOV
Mediocre minds discuss people. Good minds discuss events. Great minds discuss ideas.
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PeterSurma
member
Reged: 08/24/06
Posts: 60
Loc: Heidelberg, Germany
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Let me add my 2 pence:
- dob drives and equatorial platforms are pretty good to keep full concentration on the object (and not on Dob-guiding by hand)
- I use a tube-like dark cover wrapped around my neck to keep any unwanted light out of my eyes. It helps seeing fainter detail, I'd say, but it's a little bit tricky especially in winter because you tend to breathe humid air on your eyepieces...
- moving across objects definitely helps seeing faint stuff (evolution taught us to be cautious about moving stuff in the night, right :-)
- especially if you have bright nights or light pollution, you should tend to observe high-surface brightness objects (stars, quasars, PNs+) + use pretty high magnifications. Even nights with moon can provide some rewarding hours then ...
- examine the baffling of your telescope: can you see any non-black parts of the scope (or behind the mirror ?!) through the open focuser ?
- some people use small baffles directly in front (towards the mirror of course) of the eyepiece in order to minimize stray light
- it's pretty hard (costly, hard to transport etc) to provide better views than a 20" scope, so - in some way - it makes no big sense to struggle further (in terms of buying bigger ones)
- I try to optimize observing time by preparing my object list and minimizing search efforts: From my (html) list I directly jump into my chart program + directly find the object I am looking for, (here it is:
http://eyes4skies.de/Internet/Astro/CrossRef/Crossref.htm#english ) I also have a 6" f/5 Bigfinder on my 20" f/4 dob, I always rotate charts to exactly the view that I see in the scope (using Guide 8.0 on a notebook), I use a 31mm Nagler on my Bigfinder to maximize field size and then jump to a 20mm Nagler on the dob
- finally I repeat the fun of observing by writing obs reports, they simply make me remember things again more clearly, asking myself questions about the objects and thus getting a closer understanding of everything as time goes by
- for me observing gets more thrilling if I understand a little bit more about the objects + asking myself 'what do I really see here ?' Even pretty simple things can be very thrilling with the right thought's in mind.
Peter
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Web: http://www.eyes4skies.de/home_EnglishVersion.htm
Edited by PeterSurma (08/02/08 07:49 PM)
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