joelwhicker
super member
Reged: 07/24/08
Posts: 180
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I have taken pencil to paper, and short of digging out my old trigonometry textbook (which I may have used for kindling), I was hoping someone could help with this question.
The AP pier is not adjustable for leveling. The Company7 website in the 5th paragraph says that it is not necessary for leveling as this can be accomplished on the mount (AP-900). My spot is pretty level, but not perfect. Is this simply a matter of polar aligning using the altitude and azimuth adjustments on the mount? Does this correct for the ground not being level? Or, is it figured out by the GTO system when aligning?
My mount will arrive Thursday and figured I would try to get an answer ahead of time.
Thanks!
-------------------- Joel
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gnowellsct
professor emeritus
Reged: 06/24/09
Posts: 733
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GEMs never have needed leveling, even without go-to. Think about it carefully. After 6 hours it is canted 90 degrees to when you set it up and it is working fine.
All that matters is the polar alignment. If the axis is aligned with true N, all is well. Your quote paragraph does NOT say leveling can be accomplished, it says polar alignment can be accomplished.
That is true. NOW it is time to get into the nitty gritty details. And here it is. The AP900 has an awkward adjustment for altitude. It is what I call a wrist breaker (ditto for the AP1200). It is hard to reach in there.
So, each time you set up (say on grass, where there are slightly uneven areas) you have to torque your wrist on that difficult adjustment or play with the silly little lever thingy they give you, in order to make the altitude adjustment to get to proper altitude for polar alignment.
That is a PITA, especially if you are looking through the polar scope and trying to make the altitude adjustment by reaching around the mount.
So what does LEVELING have to do with all of this. And here is the answer: if you are observing most often at the same latitude, but are on uneven ground each time, you will find that by LEVELING your ALTITUDE stays the same from session to session! (or very nearly the same). That way you don't have to break your wrist to adjust the mount to get polar alignment in the slightly-different-spot-from-last-time.
How significant is this? Well, significant. It's the main reason I went with an ATS pier.
Does it *have* to be this way? Yes, with an AP900. On the Mach 1 and Losmandy G11, the altitude adjustment is so easy that you can dump leveling and go with making the altitude adjustment. If you are setting up and tearing down each session, it's going to be one or the other: adjustments in altitude to make up for uneven terrain, or adjustments in the pier to be level.
Since the AP900 + pier is a "mount you can use for years and years and years" I do consider the extra funds for an ATS to be worthwhile, even though the AP pier is a bargain price. Other options include Berlebach tripods or AP tripod or maybe even a Losmandy tripod, those would be great with an adapter, and they go new for around $600.
good luck,
Greg N
-------------------- "Aperture will get you through times of no money better than money will get you through times of no aperture."
featuring selected astrojunk:
bunch o' widefield eyepieces
bunch o' narrowfield eyepieces
couple o' Barlows
couple o' scopes
couple o' mounts
couple o' tripods
and a pier 'n' stuff
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joelwhicker
super member
Reged: 07/24/08
Posts: 180
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Hi Greg,
Thanks for the response, very helpful. I am usually pretty good at visualizing things, but this one got me.
I am also considering the ATS pier, but thought I would play around with this one to see if for once I could prevent myself from spending extra money. Usually does not work out that way
-------------------- Joel
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nik hodges
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 04/20/07
Posts: 757
Loc: UK
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GEMs may not need levelling to get polar alignment but it makes it much easier IMO especially if you use some sort of drift alignment because adjustments in one axis effect the other unless the mount is level
re the AP pier i have one of these,its great and a very stable platform for imaging. Its not true that you cant adjust it. The three turnbuckles allow for relatively minor adjustments but you will need a fairly level starting place
hope this helps
Nik
-------------------- AP900gto3
Flurostar 110/TAK TOA 0.75 reducer
Megrez 80mm triplet apo/moonlight focuser
8" LX200R/AP CCDT67 reducer/moonlight focuser
StarlightXpress SXVF-H16 camera/trutek filter wheel
DSI Pro II
Maxim DL/Maxpoint/PEMPro/CCDAP4/Sky6Pro/AdobePS3E
http://www.pbase.com/njh542/images2009
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RAKing
Carpal Tunnel
   
Reged: 12/28/07
Posts: 2092
Loc: West of the D.C. Nebula
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Congrats on the new mount.
As mentioned, GEMs do not care if they are level - only if they are polar aligned. A level mount just makes the task a bit easier.
IIRC, it takes a couple months to get an ATS pier, so you might go ahead and see if the Portable Pier can do the job before you decide on the nicer (and more expensive) ATS pier. I did that two years ago and am still "testing" the Portable Pier. In fact, I now have two of them and love their ruggedness and simplicity.
Ron
-------------------- Time spent looking at the stars is added to your life.
Tak FS-128, C925-CF, C6SE, other stray cats and refractors.
A-P Mach1 GTO
Zeiss orthos to Ethos - and some stuff in between.
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joelwhicker
super member
Reged: 07/24/08
Posts: 180
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Does everyone agree that the altitude adjustment is a knuckle buster? The newer mounts come with the larger polar forks. Does this help?
I will mark my patio (while the wife is not around) to get a consistent spot, but it will likely need tweaking each time out.
Also, thought about the ATS pier with the Scope Roller wheels. Wheely bar wheels are too wobbly. Anyone with some experience? The kicker is I have to traverse about 10 feet of aggregate concrete (bumpy) driveway to get to the smooth finished patio.
-------------------- Joel
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gnowellsct
professor emeritus
Reged: 06/24/09
Posts: 733
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Quote:
Does everyone agree that the altitude adjustment is a knuckle buster? The newer mounts come with the larger polar forks. Does this help?
I will mark my patio (while the wife is not around) to get a consistent spot, but it will likely need tweaking each time out.
Also, thought about the ATS pier with the Scope Roller wheels. Wheely bar wheels are too wobbly. Anyone with some experience? The kicker is I have to traverse about 10 feet of aggregate concrete (bumpy) driveway to get to the smooth finished patio.
I upgraded my 900 QMD mount to the new fork. It helps but not a lot. The "ultimate critique" of the design is as follows: First, AP had to issue a little lever thingy to help people to the adjustment. Second, AP moved away from the "under" design in the Mach 1 and went Losmandy style. The Losmandy up-front-and-big is the most ergonomic I've found.
It is correct that leveling helps with drift alignment. I'm not sure why, but I had assumed you're going to be doing mostly visual. But as a visual observer my point is simply that you'll be doing one (altitude) or the other (leveling pier) and sometimes both (your bubble level is only so accurate) but you're probably not going to do neither, unless you find the exact same spot to set up every time and there's no tendency of the mount/tripod to settle in there.
Greg N
-------------------- "Aperture will get you through times of no money better than money will get you through times of no aperture."
featuring selected astrojunk:
bunch o' widefield eyepieces
bunch o' narrowfield eyepieces
couple o' Barlows
couple o' scopes
couple o' mounts
couple o' tripods
and a pier 'n' stuff
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lineman_16735
Tak-o-holic
Reged: 12/04/04
Posts: 2604
Loc: Central PA
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Quote:
Does everyone agree that the altitude adjustment is a knuckle buster?
I'm pretty critical when it comes to my gear. I don't find the altitude adjustment a problem. Matter of fact I've never given it a second thought. I don't use the adjustment bar just the large knob. In my experience I have found the AP's altitude knob more comfortable than the G-11. I have also found that the AP's altitude adjustment is rock solid with none of the slop that both of my G-11's had/have.
I should add that I am near 40° north. If you were near 20° then I can see that the altitude adjustment would be tough to get to.
-------------------- Chris
A mount from Illinois
A scope from Japan
A camera from Cal-I-Fornia
A dog from Kentucky
A wife and kids from the "Twilight Zone"
The Geek Shed
Edited by lineman_16735 (10/06/09 04:56 AM)
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Paul G
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 05/08/03
Posts: 2280
Loc: Freedonia
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Quote:
Does everyone agree that the altitude adjustment is a knuckle buster?
Not at all. I have no problem using the alt knob while looking through the polar scope. The knob hides out between the fork arms but there is plenty of room to grab it and turn it:
I disagree with both of Greg's claims when he says, "The "ultimate critique" of the design is as follows: First, AP had to issue a little lever thingy to help people to the adjustment. Second, AP moved away from the "under" design in the Mach 1 and went Losmandy style."
First, the lever is used to make fine tweaks (longer lever arm, basic physics), not to make using the knob easier. In fact, with the lever in place the knob has only a small range of motion as you can see in the picture.
Second, the alt adjustment knob sticks out on the Mach1GTO not because of any difficulty using the knob in their other mounts, but because the Mach1 is a much smaller mount and there isn't any other place to put the knob. A pic is worth a thousand words:
Mach1GTO
Head on
-------------------- Gus
Tasco 4.5 Reflector EQ Telescope
Edited by Paul G (10/06/09 06:40 AM)
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gnowellsct
professor emeritus
Reged: 06/24/09
Posts: 733
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Quote:
Quote:
Does everyone agree that the altitude adjustment is a knuckle buster?
Not at all. I have no problem using the alt knob while looking through the polar scope. The knob hides out between the fork arms but there is plenty of room to grab it and turn it:
I disagree with both of Greg's claims when he says, "The "ultimate critique" of the design is as follows: First, AP had to issue a little lever thingy to help people to the adjustment. Second, AP moved away from the "under" design in the Mach 1 and went Losmandy style."
First, the lever is used to make fine tweaks (longer lever arm, basic physics), not to make using the knob easier. In fact, with the lever in place the knob has only a small range of motion as you can see in the picture.
Second, the alt adjustment knob sticks out on the Mach1GTO not because of any difficulty using the knob in their other mounts, but because the Mach1 is a much smaller mount and there isn't any other place to put the knob. A pic is worth a thousand words:
Mach1GTO
Head on
I guess we have to agree to disagree. The AP900 is a wonderful mount. Accessing the altitude adjustment from the front is easy. What is hard is accessing it from the rear. In exactly the format shown.
The little lever does help for minor adjustments and has a short range. So you would want to level to minimize the movement of the little lever. The problem is what happens if you want to go the other way. (The picture shows the lever with maximum travel in one direction, not in the other). Then the lever thingie has to be put in the opposite hole. But you don't know which hole to put it in until you look in the polar scope to find out. Now you have to come back around and re-situate the lever thingie. Then you have only so much travel before you need to resituate it again.
I personally find it to be a little lever thingie that is easily lost and I don't use it.
The lever thingie does give leverage and that IS simple physics. And the reason it is *necessary* is that in spite of a *generous* diameter on the handle you can't access it to get adequate torque. It's a deficient design. If the handle were more accessible you'd have plenty of torque and no need for the lever thingie.
By way of contrast the Titan has an easily accessible altitude adjustment for a big mount, but I found the altitude adjustment between latitude settings to be a nightmare. Here I'm discussing range of travel with the adjustment knob. Both AP series and Titan have finite range of travel for a given latitude and allow you to reset the mount higher or lower. The AP design is in my view superior to the Titan on that part, no doubt about it.
I'm just discussing the knob, though. The altitude knob you use if you set and tear the thing down a lot.
I've set my AP900 up dozens of times and this is one of two design deficiencies IMHO. The other one is specific to the QMD series and not relevant to this discussion.
So let it be understood I consider the mount a treasure. But if you're setting it up each and every time you use it, the altitude adjustment process is a weak link. This is particularly true if you've gotten used to a Mach 1 or G11, both of which are ergonomically best in class if you're trying to adjust altitude *while looking through the polar scope*.
regards Greg N
-------------------- "Aperture will get you through times of no money better than money will get you through times of no aperture."
featuring selected astrojunk:
bunch o' widefield eyepieces
bunch o' narrowfield eyepieces
couple o' Barlows
couple o' scopes
couple o' mounts
couple o' tripods
and a pier 'n' stuff
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Aquatone
member
Reged: 03/23/06
Posts: 85
Loc: Moraga, CA (Bay Area)
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I don't quite agree with Greg's claim either. I used to assemble and take down my AP900 and ATS pier (which I high recommend) all the time. I would just level the pier with the built in level that ATS will include in the rotating pier adapter, roughly align with a compass adjusted for true north, and lift the mount on top. Unless you are traveling hundreds of miles north and south and thus changing latitude significantly each time, there is usually little adjustment required. Only takes 5 minutes or less to assemble everything when you get the hang of it.
The key though, is to polar align first before mounting your telescope. When you are adjusting the altitude with 40+ lb's of telescope on top then it is definitely harder to get enough torque to make a major altitude adjustment - but you don't have to do it this way.
I have a Mach 1.0 also and do not find it that much quicker to align from a procedural point of view. If it seems easier, it may be because it is a lighter mount that carries lighter instruments. The AP900 is a heavier duty mount.
Chris
-------------------- Astro-Physics 160 EDF
Astro-Physics 10" Maksutov Cassegrain
Borg 77 ED
AP Mach 1.0 GTO
AP1200 GTO
Custom software development pipeline
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Paul G
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 05/08/03
Posts: 2280
Loc: Freedonia
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Does everyone agree that the altitude adjustment is a knuckle buster?
Not at all. I have no problem using the alt knob while looking through the polar scope. The knob hides out between the fork arms but there is plenty of room to grab it and turn it:
I disagree with both of Greg's claims when he says, "The "ultimate critique" of the design is as follows: First, AP had to issue a little lever thingy to help people to the adjustment. Second, AP moved away from the "under" design in the Mach 1 and went Losmandy style."
First, the lever is used to make fine tweaks (longer lever arm, basic physics), not to make using the knob easier. In fact, with the lever in place the knob has only a small range of motion as you can see in the picture.
Second, the alt adjustment knob sticks out on the Mach1GTO not because of any difficulty using the knob in their other mounts, but because the Mach1 is a much smaller mount and there isn't any other place to put the knob. A pic is worth a thousand words:
Mach1GTO
Head on
I guess we have to agree to disagree. The AP900 is a wonderful mount. Accessing the altitude adjustment from the front is easy. What is hard is accessing it from the rear. In exactly the format shown.
The little lever does help for minor adjustments and has a short range. So you would want to level to minimize the movement of the little lever. The problem is what happens if you want to go the other way. (The picture shows the lever with maximum travel in one direction, not in the other). Then the lever thingie has to be put in the opposite hole. But you don't know which hole to put it in until you look in the polar scope to find out. Now you have to come back around and re-situate the lever thingie. Then you have only so much travel before you need to resituate it again.
I personally find it to be a little lever thingie that is easily lost and I don't use it.
The lever thingie does give leverage and that IS simple physics. And the reason it is *necessary* is that in spite of a *generous* diameter on the handle you can't access it to get adequate torque. It's a deficient design. If the handle were more accessible you'd have plenty of torque and no need for the lever thingie.
By way of contrast the Titan has an easily accessible altitude adjustment for a big mount, but I found the altitude adjustment between latitude settings to be a nightmare. Here I'm discussing range of travel with the adjustment knob. Both AP series and Titan have finite range of travel for a given latitude and allow you to reset the mount higher or lower. The AP design is in my view superior to the Titan on that part, no doubt about it.
I'm just discussing the knob, though. The altitude knob you use if you set and tear the thing down a lot.
I've set my AP900 up dozens of times and this is one of two design deficiencies IMHO. The other one is specific to the QMD series and not relevant to this discussion.
So let it be understood I consider the mount a treasure. But if you're setting it up each and every time you use it, the altitude adjustment process is a weak link. This is particularly true if you've gotten used to a Mach 1 or G11, both of which are ergonomically best in class if you're trying to adjust altitude *while looking through the polar scope*.
regards Greg N
I'm sorry I wasn't clear, my bad for replying to two different posts in one. 
I'm not disagreeing with your contention that you have trouble with the knob. If you say you do I'm sure you do. My disagreement is with your insinuation that 1) the lever thingie was designed to compensate for a bad design of the knob; according to the manual it is used for fine alignment. While it can be used to apply more torque it is designed to allow fine movement of the knob. And 2) that AP wised up and changed the knob placement on the Mach 1 because it was better than the placement on their larger mounts. As the photos clearly show, the knob on the Mach 1 can go nowhere else other than to stick out as it is larger than the housing behind it. Same with the G11, no other place for the knob to go.
Everyone is different. I found my G11's alt adjustment to be rough and jumpy, not easy to use. And to answer the previous poster who inquired whether everyone agreed with you that the alt knob is a knuckle buster I would note that in all the years these mounts have been out yours is the first post I've seen with that complaint. However, I can certainly see where a person with huge hands may have an issue with its recessed placement or one with short arms may have trouble reaching around while looking through the polar scope.
Clear skies,
-------------------- Gus
Tasco 4.5 Reflector EQ Telescope
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Paul G
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 05/08/03
Posts: 2280
Loc: Freedonia
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Quote:
The key though, is to polar align first before mounting your telescope. When you are adjusting the altitude with 40+ lb's of telescope on top then it is definitely harder to get enough torque to make a major altitude adjustment - but you don't have to do it this way.
Good point. The mount's manual says this: "If possible, you should do your rough polar alignment with the R.A. axis only since you will be making major adjustments to position of the mount at this time. The remainder of the mount, telescope and counterweights will add considerable weight and require more hand effort. Later, you will do your final polar alignment with the telescope and counterweights attached, but the adjustments will be comparatively small."
-------------------- Gus
Tasco 4.5 Reflector EQ Telescope
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Jeff Morgan
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 09/28/03
Posts: 1987
Loc: Prescott, AZ
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I was also looking at the AP Portable Pier and had read a post on the forums that the AP was somewhat more adjustable for leveling than the Parallax product. I called AP and asked about the leveling issue, and was told the best method of leveling was to use wood blocks under the low leg. With that tie-breaker gone and the turnbuckle issue remaining I ended up ordering the Parallax pier.
-------------------- Jeff Morgan
Prescott, AZ
Wile E. Coyote School of Telescope Making
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gnowellsct
professor emeritus
Reged: 06/24/09
Posts: 733
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Quote:
I was also looking at the AP Portable Pier and had read a post on the forums that the AP was somewhat more adjustable for leveling than the Parallax product. I called AP and asked about the leveling issue, and was told the best method of leveling was to use wood blocks under the low leg. With that tie-breaker gone and the turnbuckle issue remaining I ended up ordering the Parallax pier.
AP pretty much "endorses" the ATS pier but offers its own pier, I think as a service for the budget conscious. AP advertises the 3600 on an ATS pier etc. And they used to, maybe still do, have a link on their site to ATS.
Greg N
-------------------- "Aperture will get you through times of no money better than money will get you through times of no aperture."
featuring selected astrojunk:
bunch o' widefield eyepieces
bunch o' narrowfield eyepieces
couple o' Barlows
couple o' scopes
couple o' mounts
couple o' tripods
and a pier 'n' stuff
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gnowellsct
professor emeritus
Reged: 06/24/09
Posts: 733
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Quote:
Quote:
The key though, is to polar align first before mounting your telescope. When you are adjusting the altitude with 40+ lb's of telescope on top then it is definitely harder to get enough torque to make a major altitude adjustment - but you don't have to do it this way.
Good point. The mount's manual says this: "If possible, you should do your rough polar alignment with the R.A. axis only since you will be making major adjustments to position of the mount at this time. The remainder of the mount, telescope and counterweights will add considerable weight and require more hand effort. Later, you will do your final polar alignment with the telescope and counterweights attached, but the adjustments will be comparatively small."
This all depends on what we're doing. If you're mounting a five or six inch apo on the AP900 then the idea that you should polar align before mounting the OTA is probably a good one. If you're lifting up a C14 into the saddle the "heave" puts a stress on the mount that certianly affects polar alignment. And it may not be on the mount as such, it might be just depressing the entire rig's feet into the soft grass.
But I perceive another issue here. My hands are not huge, my arms are not short. But I do the altitude adjustment with a C14 and a refractor on top.
It is quite possible that it is less difficult with a lighter rig. My FS128 only weighs 15 lbs.
The other dimension to this is how critical is the alignment. On the FS128 I have a 2.8 degree field so if I jar the mount while putting on the OTA (but the process is intrinsically easier) then the result is not as important.
With the 43 arc minute fov of the C14 I work for every arc minute of pointing accuracy. So the mount gets polar aligned AFTER the scope goes on. So relative to what I'm reading here there are two differences which go not to the mount design but to setup protocol as a funtion of rig. My setup protocol requires polar alignment with the scope on, so I don't jar it when I mount the big tube, and the adjustment procedure is more difficult with about 50 lbs of scope and refractor on board than it is with a lighter rig.
But this is no different from when I had the C14 on the Losmandy G11. Same procedure for the same reason. The G11 is much easier to adjust. And of course with a heavy OTA on board the altitude adjustment will respond readily to up/down changes, not jerky at all.
But I still argue that it's a design imperfection. The mount is a great mount but could be improved in this regard. The placement of the handle prevents one from getting maximum torque for adjusting the altitude of the mount while it is carrying at the upper end of its design spec.
To sum up, I find it easier to polar align the AP900 while it is level. And thems my reasons. And therefore I would want a pier that can be leveled without using wood shims.
regards Greg N
-------------------- "Aperture will get you through times of no money better than money will get you through times of no aperture."
featuring selected astrojunk:
bunch o' widefield eyepieces
bunch o' narrowfield eyepieces
couple o' Barlows
couple o' scopes
couple o' mounts
couple o' tripods
and a pier 'n' stuff
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gnowellsct
professor emeritus
Reged: 06/24/09
Posts: 733
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I have to put in a final thought: the Mach 1 doesn't have the altitude adjustment out front because it is smaller. It was *able* to get smaller because the decision was made to put the altitude adjustment up front Losmandy style. And I suspect that Mach 1 design could be scaled, but I don't pretend to know at what production cost.
regards Greg N
-------------------- "Aperture will get you through times of no money better than money will get you through times of no aperture."
featuring selected astrojunk:
bunch o' widefield eyepieces
bunch o' narrowfield eyepieces
couple o' Barlows
couple o' scopes
couple o' mounts
couple o' tripods
and a pier 'n' stuff
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Paul G
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 05/08/03
Posts: 2280
Loc: Freedonia
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Quote:
I have to put in a final thought: the Mach 1 doesn't have the altitude adjustment out front because it is smaller. It was *able* to get smaller because the decision was made to put the altitude adjustment up front Losmandy style. And I suspect that Mach 1 design could be scaled, but I don't pretend to know at what production cost.
regards Greg N
Hmm... Chicken or the egg? Interesting viewpoint; I must admit I never thought about it that way.
-------------------- Gus
Tasco 4.5 Reflector EQ Telescope
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RAKing
Carpal Tunnel
   
Reged: 12/28/07
Posts: 2092
Loc: West of the D.C. Nebula
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You guys are way ahead of me, but I can say that even with the "up front" design of the Mach1, adjusting the mount with 30 pounds of counterweight and a C11 on top is not easy.
I usually put one counterweight on, then finish the alignment before loading the rest of the gear. There is some sag, but it's okay for my purposes. I've never bothered trying to level the pier.
Ron
-------------------- Time spent looking at the stars is added to your life.
Tak FS-128, C925-CF, C6SE, other stray cats and refractors.
A-P Mach1 GTO
Zeiss orthos to Ethos - and some stuff in between.
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gnowellsct
professor emeritus
Reged: 06/24/09
Posts: 733
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Quote:
You guys are way ahead of me, but I can say that even with the "up front" design of the Mach1, adjusting the mount with 30 pounds of counterweight and a C11 on top is not easy. 
I usually put one counterweight on, then finish the alignment before loading the rest of the gear. There is some sag, but it's okay for my purposes. I've never bothered trying to level the pier.
Ron
Well you if you think the Mach 1 has you cranking try it with the AP900! Greg N
-------------------- "Aperture will get you through times of no money better than money will get you through times of no aperture."
featuring selected astrojunk:
bunch o' widefield eyepieces
bunch o' narrowfield eyepieces
couple o' Barlows
couple o' scopes
couple o' mounts
couple o' tripods
and a pier 'n' stuff
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