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ronharper
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 02/14/06
Posts: 1034
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Hi All, I tweaked the conditional alignment on my bought-used 7x50 FMT-SX, and it was so much fun that I thought I'd describe the procedure for others. Most of it will apply to any eccentric-ring adjustment.
1)Mount the bino, sight a distant object, and determine the direction of the error. I don't like the method of backing off a few inches, because I found the result to be sensitive to eye position. I prefer to look into the bino with one objective covered, quickly uncover, and notice where that eye sees the image relative to the first eye.
2)Dismount, and take to a well-lit work area. Determine the orientations of the eccentric ring objective mounts by looking directly at the front, and finding the narrow crecent-shaped profiles of the part of the ring that the lens if farthest from. Use masking tape on the outside of the barrel to mark these positions.
3)Plan the adjustment, based on the observed alignment error and the ring orientation. The direction of motion is analagous to what happens in normal usage: if you point the bino up, the object viewed appears to move down in the field of view. So, rotate the objective so as to move the lens opposite to the way you want the image to move.
4) Remove the rubber cover from the objective(s) you plan to adjust.
5) Remove the outer retainer ring. I made a tool from a stiff piece of 1/16-inch thick metal, cut to length to span across the ring, and filed down at the ends to fit snugly into the slots. Protect the lens with a cardboard circle. Use a good bit of force to keep the tool seated as you turn counterclockwise to loosen and remove the ring.
6) Lift out the tabbed rotation-proof washer and the spacer underneath.
7) You will now see that the the lens is encircled by three rings. The middle of these rings provides the adjustment. Put a bit of masking tape on the end of the barrel, and mark the location of one of the adjustment slots. For making the adjustment, I used a machinist's compass to span the ring. The two points nestled snugly into the ring's adjustment slots, constrained from motion inside or outside by the adjacent rings. Again use careful force.
8) Make a small adjustment, about 1mm of motion of the slots, go back to the mount, view the object, assess what you've done, and continue until you see no error.
9) Put her back together, grab a cold one, and say to yourself "anything that can be adjusted with a jeweler's screwdriver is not gonna stay for long".
Ron
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EdZ
Professor EdZ
   
Reged: 02/15/02
Posts: 12783
Loc: Cumberland, R I , USA42N71.4W
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Quote:
Mount the bino, sight a distant object, and determine the direction of the error..... Plan the adjustment, based on the observed alignment error
Can you please explain, How did you determine which barrel of the binocular was in error? Are you sure you corrected the barrel that was in error? Or is it possible you adjusted the barrel that was correct to align with the barrel that was incorrect?
edz
-------------------- Teach a kid something today. The feeling you'll get is one of life's greatest rewards.
member#21
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BillC
on a new path
   
Reged: 06/04/04
Posts: 2129
Loc: Washington, USA
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For contitional alignment, it doesn't matter. But, the thought of screwing up the good barrel to bring it to the other one does give me a few shivers.
Unless the error is HUGE--a prism moved laterally--it is almost impossible for anyone to KNOW the direction and extent of needed motion.
I realize that there are some “professionals” out there who profess they can collimate a binocular without a collimator. From my perspective and experience, this is just the battle cry of those who don’t have a collimator or know how to use one.
Cory and I can wing a conditional alignment in our sleep. Collimation; that’s a different story.
Cheers,
Bill
-------------------- William J. Cook, Chief Opticalman, USNR-Ret.
Founding Editor, Amateur Telescope Making Journal
20-year vet. of Captain's Nautical Supplies, Optics Dept. Mgr.
Optics Machanic, WG11-3306, Ft. Lewis, Tacoma,WA
Yata, Yata, Yata . . .
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rushintuit
sage
Reged: 04/01/06
Posts: 267
Loc: Farpoint Observatory
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No good deed goes unpunished.
-------------------- /// Stellarvue SV102ED /// Nikon 12x50 /// Fujinon 16x70 /// SkyTools 2 /// The Desktop Universe All Sky CCD Mosaic In Monochrome Mode ///
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BillC
on a new path
   
Reged: 06/04/04
Posts: 2129
Loc: Washington, USA
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Nope. Obviously you thought my "professionals" was aimed at you. Even I'm not that crude . . . Well, most of the time. No, I was speaking of people who are in the business PROFESSIONALLY. Sorry my comments were not defined better.
Cheers,
Bill
-------------------- William J. Cook, Chief Opticalman, USNR-Ret.
Founding Editor, Amateur Telescope Making Journal
20-year vet. of Captain's Nautical Supplies, Optics Dept. Mgr.
Optics Machanic, WG11-3306, Ft. Lewis, Tacoma,WA
Yata, Yata, Yata . . .
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ronharper
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 02/14/06
Posts: 1034
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Ed, no, I didn't know which barrel was worse. The exit pupils and images both looked good, and I didn't know which optical axis differed more from the IPD-adjust axle. So, I figured, the error was small and it shouldn't matter much. By happenstance, or, more likely, due to thoughtful design and accurate construction, the eccentric offsets of the two objectives were at very nearly right angles to one another, so that any adjustment could be reached with a minimum of motion. In addition, one of the barrels was set just the right way, so that an adjustment of only that one gave me the direction of change that was needed. So, I adjusted that one. The change was small--2.5mm of motion at the edge of the eccentric ring--and the exit pupils and images still look good.
Bill, it was easy to determine which objective and which direction, thanks in part to the simplicity of the situation, described above. The amount of adjustment needed was harder to predict. I needed about 6 arcmin of image shift, absolute not magnified apparent. I estimated the offset of the lens in the eccentric mount to be 1mm, the focal ratio to be f/4, and the radius of the adjusting ring to be 30mm. The calculated result for the required adjustment was 1.5mm for the slot in the adjusting ring. It really took 2.5mm. I don't know where the mistake was, but my estimate of the eccentric offset is a good candidate. Of course no pro would fool with this math, but it was my first time, and I had no idea what to expect until I made the estimate.
Conditional alignment is all I want, since this is pretty much a one-person bino. Unless the occasional "Gosh this is heavy, I don't see how you hold it, there's no way to focus it, never mind, here take it back." counts as sharing the view.
Ron
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BillC
on a new path
   
Reged: 06/04/04
Posts: 2129
Loc: Washington, USA
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You're right; no pro would mess with the math. BUT, when I finally get out of the business, all the way, I'll give you some idea of just how many "pros" are left. Be sure to have a fluffy towel handy.
For ONE IPD, Conditional alignment IS Collimation.
I really hated to say that, knowing how badly it is going to be misused. But, it still the truth.
Have a great day.
Cheers,
Bill
-------------------- William J. Cook, Chief Opticalman, USNR-Ret.
Founding Editor, Amateur Telescope Making Journal
20-year vet. of Captain's Nautical Supplies, Optics Dept. Mgr.
Optics Machanic, WG11-3306, Ft. Lewis, Tacoma,WA
Yata, Yata, Yata . . .
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rushintuit
sage
Reged: 04/01/06
Posts: 267
Loc: Farpoint Observatory
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"Obviously you thought my "professionals" was aimed at you."
Not at all, Bill. I was just trying to soften the edge of an Edz/BillC huddle for Ron's sake.
-------------------- /// Stellarvue SV102ED /// Nikon 12x50 /// Fujinon 16x70 /// SkyTools 2 /// The Desktop Universe All Sky CCD Mosaic In Monochrome Mode ///
Edited by rushintuit (08/22/06 12:56 AM)
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Jay_Bird
professor emeritus
   
Reged: 01/04/06
Posts: 690
Loc: Nevada 36N 115W
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" Put her back together, grab a cold one, and say to yourself "anything that can be adjusted with a jeweler's screwdriver * is not gonna stay for long".
* don't forget the homemade spanners!
You're braver than I (maybe I'd need the cold one before surgery) but it's good to get a better understanding - I've only unscrewed the objective trim/bump rings to clean some older bino's and wondered how the eccentric ring system worked. They seem to stay put pretty well...
Best, Jay
-------------------- 'these things stand like stone - kindness in another's troubles, courage in your own' Gordon
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Cory Suddarth
Vendor
Reged: 08/10/06
Posts: 9
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Ron,
While reading your post I was impressed by several things. First, your willingness to "go for it". Second, (my favorite) your ability to fashion a tool for the job. Way to go! And third, protecting the lens while you work. I would recommend leather to replace the cardboard disk you used. It's softer for the lens, and tuffer to to resist penitration.
I'm supprised Bill didn't ask you for a resume.
Cory
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ronharper
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 02/14/06
Posts: 1034
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Cory, Aw, shucks. I guess I feel about optics like a normal male would about his truck. Ron
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