Anonymous
Unregistered
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Now that the pier is done, its time to move on to the construction of the observatory. I was originally going to just add an extension to the deck, but after giving it some more thought, I've decided to go ahead and construct a roll-off roof observatory instead.
Here is a shot of the structure that will be supporting the observatory:
The first step will be trimming the existing decking to be flush with the outside edge of the two 6x6 post that you can't see in the above shot. Then I plan on laying down some 23/32" plywood tongue and groove subflooring. This flooring will come to within 3/8" of the outside edge of the 2x10 joists, allowing for the width of the sheeting that will cover the 2x4 framing. The idea being to create a flush transition from the sheeting to the 2x10's, thus allowing the siding to extend down onto the 2x10's to prevent any moisture issues down the road.
Since the subflooring is not pressure treated, I plan to add a layer of plastic onto the joists before laying down the subfloor.
I have not yet calculated jjust how tall to make the sidewalls, but I'm thinking 6' will be about right.
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Tom L
Reged: 01/07/04
Posts: 29817
Loc: Sunny Oregon
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Where's my beer, I need to put my feet up, get a bullhorn and start supervising! This could be fun... 
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Tom 
Tele Vue 102mm f/8.6 on an EzTouch
Vixen 80mm f/5 A80SSWT on a grab-n-go mount
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rboe
Numbfinger
Reged: 03/16/02
Posts: 39695
Loc: Phx, AZ
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Have we decided how many Supervisors this project needs yet? 
Are the wood joists touching the pier? I'm thinking that if they are, the walls will make better sails than the pier and transfer any motion to the pier.
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Ron
NS11GPS
Pronto
16" dob
15X70 Obies
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Tom L
Reged: 01/07/04
Posts: 29817
Loc: Sunny Oregon
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I see daylight between the pier and the joists...they look like seperate entities to me.
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Tom
Tele Vue 102mm f/8.6 on an EzTouch
Vixen 80mm f/5 A80SSWT on a grab-n-go mount
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Yep, there is at least 1" of clearance everywhere between the wood and pier.
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bierbelly
Postmaster
Reged: 01/23/04
Posts: 5434
Loc: Sterling, VA
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Are you certain that 6' walls will give you enough clearance for the Yerkes 40"?
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12" DSH
8" f/4 Vega MakNewt
6" MN66
TV85
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
Are you certain that 6' walls will give you enough clearance for the Yerkes 40"?
No, but it should work just fine with a OGS 16" Ritchey-Chretien with a FS-152 piggyback. 
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Cow Jazz
professor emeritus
Reged: 11/24/03
Posts: 643
Loc: Toronto, Ontario
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OOOOOHHHHH, Peter, that's just TO sweet!
I think just about ALL of us are drooling! 
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John aka: Byrdzeye
NYAA, Toronto
Observatorium Orionis
XT10i w/PT (push-to)
ED80 on AZ3 or NexstarGT or LXD55
350D w/17-85 IS & 70-200 f4 L
Taylor guitar & IPod
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bierbelly
Postmaster
Reged: 01/23/04
Posts: 5434
Loc: Sterling, VA
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Quote:
Quote:
Are you certain that 6' walls will give you enough clearance for the Yerkes 40"?
No, but it should work just fine with a OGS 16" Ritchey-Chretien with a FS-152 piggyback.
This statement is very questionable without pictures! 
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12" DSH
8" f/4 Vega MakNewt
6" MN66
TV85
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Dave LoPresti
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 12/25/03
Posts: 1982
Loc: Preston, Connecticut
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Peter, I'm diggin' the starhopper chronicles. I've learned a bunch from your adventure so far. A portal window maybe?. It would give someone  a chance to compliment you on a perfect circle again. 
The only thing I would recommend for you is to try and keep your observatory wall low. At least low enough not to lose the excellent horizon you seem to have (unless structurally necessary)  .
Otherwise, get back to work. You have some tough supervisors to keep happy as well as the rest of us armchair quarterbacks.  
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Dave L
Meade 10" SCT
TEC 140 SN291
Coronado SolarMax 90mm <.5Å
WO 80mm ZSFD (10th Ann. red)
Tele Vue Pronto
Coronado PST
Canon 18x50 IS
 Wonderful wife 
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rboe
Numbfinger
Reged: 03/16/02
Posts: 39695
Loc: Phx, AZ
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Quote:
Quote:
Are you certain that 6' walls will give you enough clearance for the Yerkes 40"?
No, but it should work just fine with a OGS 16" Ritchey-Chretien with a FS-152 piggyback.
Don't play with us! 
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Ron
NS11GPS
Pronto
16" dob
15X70 Obies
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Tom L
Reged: 01/07/04
Posts: 29817
Loc: Sunny Oregon
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Hey! Atleast it's not a 20" RC!
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Tom
Tele Vue 102mm f/8.6 on an EzTouch
Vixen 80mm f/5 A80SSWT on a grab-n-go mount
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rboe
Numbfinger
Reged: 03/16/02
Posts: 39695
Loc: Phx, AZ
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He recast the pier - so he is not above doing it for the scope.
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Ron
NS11GPS
Pronto
16" dob
15X70 Obies
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John Jarosz
I'm being watched...
Reged: 04/25/04
Posts: 2192
Loc: Chicago area, IL
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I can see it now, a remote control R-C 16" accessed via the web. Real time images for all to stack, unstack, sharpen, unsharpen, adjust color and contrast, etc.
Peter, will we have to submit project proposals for scope time like they do with the Hubble? What's the charge gonna be?
Is this gonna be finished in time for the eclipse in October?
John
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6" F4.6(w/Paracorr) GEM reflector, 8" F11 Dall Relay Scope
6" F5 RFT Refractor, Garrett Gemini 20x80 LW
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Rusty
Postmaster
Reged: 08/06/03
Posts: 16399
Loc: Brooker, FL
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The contractor guarantees it'll be completed in five days.
But then, they always do....
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N11GPS Fastar
TOA-130S
MK66 Std
Vintage C5
Megrez II 80mm ED Triplet APO
SolarMax 40
NJP Temma II
Sirius EQ-G
ST8XE/CFW-8(LRGBHa)/AO-7/DF-2/STV Dlx/ST237a/350D (Unmodded)/Mallincam Color Hyper Plus/DSI III Color/DSI II Pro
Two not-spoiled Golden Retrievers - Maggie and Casey
Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke
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Dave LoPresti
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 12/25/03
Posts: 1982
Loc: Preston, Connecticut
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If/when I build an observatory, I'd like to incorperate on of these systems.
http://www.weathertools.com/product/davis/dvpros.htm
It would be a big help keeping track of the conditions inside and out for both you and your equipment. 
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Dave L
Meade 10" SCT
TEC 140 SN291
Coronado SolarMax 90mm <.5Å
WO 80mm ZSFD (10th Ann. red)
Tele Vue Pronto
Coronado PST
Canon 18x50 IS
Wonderful wife
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rboe
Numbfinger
Reged: 03/16/02
Posts: 39695
Loc: Phx, AZ
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Back in Minnesota we used a rock. No need to power it.
If the rock was dry - sunny.
If rock was wet - raining.
If you couldn't find the rock - windy.
I think he has plenty of rocks.
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Ron
NS11GPS
Pronto
16" dob
15X70 Obies
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Guys, I was joking about the OGS and FS-152, just as getting the 40" Yerkes is a rather unrealistic goal. 
I do have a nice view towards the Southern horizon. Once I get the subfloor installed, I'll bolt up the scope and point it towards the South so that I can determine how high I can go without the wall messing up the view. All jokes aside, I do want to ensure that the roll-off roof will clear any future scope upgrades that I might considder.
Didn't get a chance to work much on the project last night, but I did manange to cut the existing decking boards so that I'm now ready to lay down the subfloor.
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rboe
Numbfinger
Reged: 03/16/02
Posts: 39695
Loc: Phx, AZ
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Good ventilation will go a long ways to aiding cool down time as I'm sure you have considered. But vents in the floor to match vents in the roll off roof may not have been.
Natural convection currents will keep the room near ambient temps. and keep moisture build up to a minimum. But you will have to make arrangements before you lay the subfloor do make use of it. My thought was that vents under the floor would be easier to weather proof than other locations. A fully vented roof (under eave vents and ridge vents as in a house) may not work quite as well as an airflow that took in your whole space.
The pier as a thermal mass may cause issues too so some reflective material on the bottom of your decking may help there. Just not too sure how much of a problem that may cause.
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Ron
NS11GPS
Pronto
16" dob
15X70 Obies
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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A couple of vents in the floor is an excellent idea Ron. I hadn't thought of that. I would think that I could go ahead and lay the subfloor, the just cut out a couple of rectangles and insert floor vents in them. I'd also want to add some fine mesh to keep critters out. Ditto for the transition between the pier and flooring.
I'll be painting the column white, so that should help keep it from getting too heated during the day. I could also add insulation underneath the deck if I really have a problem.
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