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Gigatron
professor emeritus
Reged: 12/10/05
Posts: 650
Loc: Staten Island, N.Y.
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Hey gang,
After days and days of reading different websites, articles, books and everything else, I'm more confused then when I started.
I have the ETX90 and the DSI Pro and a 3.3 focal reducer. I have the autostar 497 and the 884 field tripod.
I have always used the ETX for manual visual observing. I have tinkered with the powered drive maybe twice in all the time I've owned it and that was early on. I'm not an expert in training the drives or anything like that. I live in such light polluted skies, I can barely see things even with a telescope. I'm hoping that extended exposures can change that.
I've never done any of the autostar updates, but I don't know if any of them are actually needed anyway.
Now, before we get to anything, let me say that I've tried reading meade's website and the weasner website, Half of meade is dead and I find the weasner site, while informative, to be too disjointed. I'd much rather read an article with pictures than read through dozens of Q&A sessions.
I've read that polar aligning the scope for AP is better than ALT-AZ alignment. So how do I do it? Do I just tilt the tripod plate to 41* (NYC, where I live)? Why does the meade website show the scope pointing straight to polaris from there - how are you supposed to attach the DSI if the backplate of the scope is against the baseplate of the mount (as seen on pg. 52 of the manual, fig. 49)? Which leg of the tripod faces north, the one with the ALT bar? Or does that point south?
So, let's say I have the scope on the tripod and it's tilted to 41*. I have the DSI/focal reducer in the rear port. I have that connected to a laptop running the included software.
If I have the scope trained (or whatever it's called) can I use the laptop to tell it what DSO I want to image and will it go there?
As you can see, I've been manuially observing (with both the ETX and Z10) so all this electronics stuff is a bit overwhelming.
If anyone (or several people in conjunction) could post idiot-proof instructions in laymen's terms (hopefully showing pictures), it would be unbelievably appreciated.
Thanks for any and all help.
-Fred
-------------------- Meade ETX-90 UHTC, AutoStar 497,
Right angle viewfinder
Deluxe field tripod
Zhumell 10" dob
Telrad finder
GSO 8x50 RACI finder
Too many special modifications to list
2" 32mm GSO,
9mm GSO,
26mm,15mm,12.4mm,6mm Meade SP,
5mm,7mm,9mm Burgess/TMB planetary
Meade 2X Barlow
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Joe Lalumia
Post Laureate
   
Reged: 01/24/07
Posts: 3606
Loc: Rockwall, Texas, USA
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Well--- my suggestion would be to begin in Alt Az mode, and learn the Meade software, focusing, FIRST--------- start with the moon and planets--- then star clusters --- then nebula last. You should be able to get at least 15 second stacked photos--- and the planets require only fraction of a second exposures. Once you feel comfortable with alt az--- then learn to polar align.
Also I don't know what version of software you have --- I have the latest 43Eg with Dick Seymours PATCH applied. The Patch gives several additional "good" features to the basic firmware.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Joe
-------------------- LX90 8" LNT, SV Nighthawk & TelePOD, SV 80/9D & M4 mount, ETX 90, Orion XT10i, 20x80 binoculars, SV-BV3s-- www.texasastro.org
"Great minds discuss ideas;Average minds discuss events;Small minds discuss people." Unknown
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nytecam
Postmaster
Reged: 08/20/05
Posts: 5748
Loc: London UK
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I can appreciate your frustration - two similar posts within an hour My homepage below [then equipment & accessories link] may help. Your 90mm Mak + f/3.3 FR gives about 300mm effective focal length which is ideal to start deepsky imaging. Once happy that focus is pin sharp on the laptop screen keep exposures short say 5s - 20s depending on how well the ETX drive tracks. Via the camera software autostack many images for a longer effective exposure say 30 images of 10s sub exposure for a 5m exposure. Most camera software should do this.
As long as your scope is tilted to generally point at Polaris [see my pics] tracking will be fairly good for 5min or so. Although I currently piggyback my ETX70, most of my early DSO images prior to last autumn were via the standard ETX drive. Getting the scope to goto and 'find' objects is a separate issue that other have covered. Good luck in your project.
-------------------- Nytecam 51N 0.1W
Meade 30cm LX200+ETX-70+e-finder+C8+Ha+CaK PSTs SBIG SGS+homebuilt spectrographs
Starlight SXVF_M9+Lodestar CCDs/Canon 300D DSLR/Fuji E550
My observatory build-ETX-70 imaging-my videos
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Rainbow
professor emeritus
   
Reged: 08/27/04
Posts: 662
Loc: Norfolk, UK
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I fully agree with Joe's comments - some good advice there
What make is the focal reducer?
-------------------- Meade ETX 90 UHTC, 497 Autostar, 884 tripod, right angle finder.
CALIBRATE MOTORS and TRAIN DRIVES!
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dunc.ellliott
sage
Reged: 10/06/06
Posts: 202
Loc: Syston, Leicester,UK
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I agree with you.
I've not had much look imaging the the etx in polar mode. If you roughly align on polaris in polar mode the tracking may be ok for a few minutes but autostar is out by miles on aligment half the time you can't see the star you are supposed to centre even in the finder scope.
Anyway enough moaning about the etx, i've just ordered a new 8" LX90ACF to keep it company.
-------------------- Meade 8" LX200R + Dell Inspiron 1501 + DSI ii color
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jgraham
Postmaster
   
Reged: 12/02/04
Posts: 6758
Loc: Dayton, Ohio
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“I've read that polar aligning the scope for AP is better than ALT-AZ alignment. So how do I do it? Do I just tilt the tripod plate to 41* (NYC, where I live)?”
Yes, you’ll want to tilt the tripod plate to 41 degrees and point the az axis (called the R.A. or polar axis when in polar mode) at the North Star.
“Why does the meade website show the scope pointing straight to polaris from there - how are you supposed to attach the DSI if the backplate of the scope is against the baseplate of the mount (as seen on pg. 52 of the manual, fig. 49)?”
This is the home position when the telescope is in polar mode. You’ll want to leave the camera off when the back of the telescope is between the tines of the fork or use the visual port.
“Which leg of the tripod faces north, the one with the ALT bar? Or does that point south?”
It usually doesn’t matter where the legs point as long as the polar axis is pointing at the North Star. I’m not familiar with this specific tripod though. Regardless, the idea is to have the polar axis pointing north.
”So, let's say I have the scope on the tripod and it's tilted to 41*. I have the DSI/focal reducer in the rear port. I have that connected to a laptop running the included software. If I have the scope trained (or whatever it's called) can I use the laptop to tell it what DSO I want to image and will it go there?”
Yes. You can use the hand controller if you wish, but I use the Remote Handbox function in Autostar Suite.
Imaging is a lot of fun and learning it is a long process, so start slow and enjoy the journey. Since you mentioned you’re observing from a light polluted site and you hope the camera will help you se more I’d start there. I’m also observing under light polluted skies and the DSI Pro is a great tool for enhancing your observing and cutting through light pollution. I’d suggest starting by setting the color filters aside and operating your camera as a monochrome imager. In this mode it’s very sensitive and easy to operate. Later you can learn how to add color to your images.
Before trying to image you’ll want to get familiar with your telescope as you will want it to track the sky and you’ll want to be able to use its slow motion controls to make fine adjustments. If you’re not comfortable with using the polar mode you don’t have to; I used an altaz mount (a Meade DS-2130) for the first year or so with my DSI and it works fine in this mode. However, you will need to learn how to calibrate your motors and train your drives so the tracking works well.
As for the camera, again, I’d suggest using it as a monochrome imager at first. To do this remove the filter slide and set it aside and cover the holes in the slide mount (black foam sheet from an art store works well). Yu might also consider buying a low profile face plate from ScopeStuff. They’re about $30 and it replace the filter slide making your camera light-tight and lightweight. You will want to use the IR filter screwed into the nosepiece. To really cut through light pollution you may also ant to use a broadband light pollution filter from Orion. I’ve found this filter (together with the IR filter) to be very effective.
As for imaging, start simple. Easy targets include just about any bright star (Mizar and Alcor are neat t look at) or the Orion Nebula. Also, if the rear camera port is causing you problems just use the visual port, you can switch to the camera port later as you gain experience.
I hope you find imaging an enjoyable pass time and I think you will find it will open a whole new window on the night sky from your back yard.
-------------------- -John
================================================
Homebuilt scopes from 4.25-16.5"
Meade LXD75-N6/SN6/SC8, DSX-90, ETX-60BB, ETX-125PE, DS-2130
Orion StarBlast, BinoViewers, Coronado PST
Rebel XT/XTi, DSI Pro (I, II, & III), DSI, LPI, Electronic Eyepiece, Phillips SPC900NC
Tasco 60mm Refractors
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