PrestonE
scholastic sledgehammer
   
Reged: 04/29/05
Posts: 817
Loc: Houston,Texas
|
|
Turn her around and start on the other end 
with the 1.5 inch spade drill again...
-------------------- A few I enjoy,
and a few more in the works ;<)
|
PrestonE
scholastic sledgehammer
   
Reged: 04/29/05
Posts: 817
Loc: Houston,Texas
|
|
Went from the 1.5 to 2.0 to 2.5 with the spade drills and then bored from 2.5" to 3.5 inches.
Here we face off the second end.
-------------------- A few I enjoy,
and a few more in the works ;<)
|
rwiederrich
Goldfinger
   
Reged: 11/17/05
Posts: 5981
Loc: Bremerton Washington
|
|
Quote:
Went from the 1.5 to 2.0 to 2.5 with the spade drills and then bored from 2.5" to 3.5 inches.
Here we face off the second end.
Now Preston...is this light baffle going to be *coned* or simply a tube?
Sweet work by the way..... 
I actually welded the cover for the upper bearing housing for my Mill project..I'm working on. 4 angular sides with 3 straight sides. It was fun. Finally primed it, and put it in place.
Gotta do some fine tuning, and then off to making the fork.
I am no way near the calibur of machinist you have demonstrated yourself to be.. 
Rob(I still use duct tape.... )well not really...but still....
-------------------- www.goldmtobservingcenter.com
Providing a great place for amateur astronomers, and ATM's to come and enjoy their hobby.
|
PrestonE
scholastic sledgehammer
   
Reged: 04/29/05
Posts: 817
Loc: Houston,Texas
|
|
So we started out with a 5 inch diameter by 9 inch long piece...at about 18 pounds.
Drill and bore out the middle 3.5 inches and we remove just about 9 pounds.
Since we used a 4 jaw chuck and took our time setting it up on both ends, indicating it with the dial indicator within +/- 0.002 inches of being concentric with the chuck...
When the second side met the first side, we could just barely see the offset. Likely less than 0.005"...gooe enough for the ID of the Collimation Tube 
Pic shot down the 3.5 inch bore.
-------------------- A few I enjoy,
and a few more in the works ;<)
|
PrestonE
scholastic sledgehammer
   
Reged: 04/29/05
Posts: 817
Loc: Houston,Texas
|
|
Since we have about 8 inches still hanging out of the 4 jaw chuck, we are going to need to support the outer end somehow.
We will turn a plug that will fit into the 3.5 inch ID snugly.
In the pic, we have turned the 3.5 inch diameter and fit it to the outer end of the Collimation Tube. Before we removed it from the jaws, we drilled and reamed a through hole to allow us to align the part in the 4 jaw chuck easier and quicker.
We put a 0.500 inch drill rod in the tailstock drill chuck and slide that onto the reamed hole in the middle of the new tailstock plug.
Then gently tighten each or the 4 jaws carefully so that the part still rotates without binding...a quick check after tightening with the dial indicator and we are within .003 inches of concentric...ok for this piece.
-------------------- A few I enjoy,
and a few more in the works ;<)
|
PrestonE
scholastic sledgehammer
   
Reged: 04/29/05
Posts: 817
Loc: Houston,Texas
|
|
Finally, we face off the outside of the plug.
Tomorrow I'll take a pic of the plug turned to the 4.1 inch diameter and the 20 TPI (thread per inch) threads that we will turn on the outer diameter of the plug...
After that, we will make the nut that will hold the mirror to the Collimation Tube. It will thread onto the 4.1 inch OD 20 TPI that we turned on the plug...the plug will act as the test gauge...so after the plug gets threaded, we will first move to complete the nut before getting on with the Collimation Tube...
With any luck, we should finish the threading and nut tomorrow...and Thursday be able to get back to the Collimation Tube...it's got lots of stepped diameters to fit some things and not touch others...
Enjoy and Regards,
Preston
-------------------- A few I enjoy,
and a few more in the works ;<)
|
jpcannavo
sage
Reged: 02/21/05
Posts: 324
Loc: Long Island New York
|
|
Preston If you may excuse a slightly divergent comment... From someone who tortures their drill press into doing things not in its job description (!), I am mesmerized watching you proceed with the fabrication of this instrument. While my own general mechanical ingenuity and skills keep me afloat, my “shop technology” tops out with a drill press and a MIG welder, and I have no real experience with mills or lathes. But your work here, which is simply fantastic, gets me dreaming of aspiring to a higher level of craftsmanship. Would it be possible to digress a bit and give a little background on how came to be proficient with these aspects of machining? I would love someday to add a small lathe and mill to my shop. Any advice or tips on how to move forward in this regard would be greatly appreciated. Absolutely beautiful work. Joe
-------------------- Joseph Cannavo
16" F5 Zambuto, front collimating, scope nearly complete - WSP here we come!
16" F5 Royce, conical blank, front collimating (Mirror Sold)
10" F5 Dob
Mid 70's RV-6
4" Orion 100mm ED
Mr Keeyoots (My Cat)
|
jasonharris
super member
Reged: 09/16/06
Posts: 137
|
|
Hi Preston, still coming along nicely! And yep, they didnt call it 'boring' for nothing, talk about a time waster..
I had to do some 6" rings from solid not too long ago. Why can you never get pipe with the right OD and just the right wall thickness!
Jason
|
PrestonE
scholastic sledgehammer
   
Reged: 04/29/05
Posts: 817
Loc: Houston,Texas
|
|
Hi Joe, I'll give you a detailed answer over the weekend...Ok???
Rob, I never gave it much thought but Boring It Is!!!!!!!!!!! 
Ok, on with the machine work...
Threading the OD of the plug at a diameter of 4.10 inches with a 20 TPI thread for a gage when doing the internal threads on the Collimation Tube Nut...
-------------------- A few I enjoy,
and a few more in the works ;<)
|
PrestonE
scholastic sledgehammer
   
Reged: 04/29/05
Posts: 817
Loc: Houston,Texas
|
|
Plug to support the end of the Collimation Tube when turning down the steps in diameter and the threading gage are now finished.
Pictured is the 5 inch OD by 1/2 in thick slab to turn into the nut that will hold the mirror on to the Collimation Tube.
Here we are using a set of parallels with rubber bands through the central holes wrapped around the jaws to hold them in place while we center the disk in the 4 jaw check.
Gage indicates within +/- 0.003"
-------------------- A few I enjoy,
and a few more in the works ;<)
|
PrestonE
scholastic sledgehammer
   
Reged: 04/29/05
Posts: 817
Loc: Houston,Texas
|
|
Facing the front side, then back side again using the parallels with rubber bands, then center drilling, drilling up to 1" and then boring to 4.014" before starting to thread the ID at 20 TPI
-------------------- A few I enjoy,
and a few more in the works ;<)
|
PrestonE
scholastic sledgehammer
   
Reged: 04/29/05
Posts: 817
Loc: Houston,Texas
|
|
So, we have been threading the ID...and you can see to the very right side the ID threading bar moved away to see if the Threaded Test Gage that we made will began to fit.
Here it's on by a couple of threads...need to deepen the threads a couple of thou.
-------------------- A few I enjoy,
and a few more in the works ;<)
|
PrestonE
scholastic sledgehammer
   
Reged: 04/29/05
Posts: 817
Loc: Houston,Texas
|
|
This is after just removing 0.001" more inch of depth in the thread.
It threads on about 1/2 inch, but starts to get tight...
Let's take anouther 1/2 a thou off and see if that does it?
-------------------- A few I enjoy,
and a few more in the works ;<)
|
PrestonE
scholastic sledgehammer
   
Reged: 04/29/05
Posts: 817
Loc: Houston,Texas
|
|
That does it, the plug threads through the nut smoothly.
Tomorrow afternoon we might get to work on the Collimation Tube if we survive the dentist in the morning 
If not it will be a 4th of July machine fest 
Regards,
Preston
-------------------- A few I enjoy,
and a few more in the works ;<)
|
PrestonE
scholastic sledgehammer
   
Reged: 04/29/05
Posts: 817
Loc: Houston,Texas
|
|
Hi Rob, This is not the Baffold, but the Collimation Tube.
It only extends about 3 inches in front of the mirror, the rest lays behind the mirror front surface...
I'll try to get a drawing cross section up perhaps tomorrow afternoon is I'm not wanting to machine after having the teeth worked on...
Regards,
Preston
ps... nice use of the mill base 
Quote:
Quote:
Went from the 1.5 to 2.0 to 2.5 with the spade drills and then bored from 2.5" to 3.5 inches.
Here we face off the second end.
Now Preston...is this light baffle going to be *coned* or simply a tube?
Sweet work by the way..... 
I actually welded the cover for the upper bearing housing for my Mill project..I'm working on. 4 angular sides with 3 straight sides. It was fun. Finally primed it, and put it in place.
Gotta do some fine tuning, and then off to making the fork.
I am no way near the calibur of machinist you have demonstrated yourself to be.. 
Rob(I still use duct tape.... )well not really...but still....
-------------------- A few I enjoy,
and a few more in the works ;<)
|
Pedestal
Post Laureate
   
Reged: 03/11/06
Posts: 3070
Loc: Smoggy Bottom, Baytown,Texas
|
|
Quote:
Here we are using a set of parallels with rubber bands through the central holes wrapped around the jaws to hold them in place while we center the disk in the 4 jaw check.
Gage indicates within +/- 0.003"
Oh, I needed this little trick about 6 years ago!  Great work! Hubert
-------------------- www.smoggybottom.org
|
PrestonE
scholastic sledgehammer
   
Reged: 04/29/05
Posts: 817
Loc: Houston,Texas
|
|
Hi Hubert, Thanks and next time you need the trick with the rubber bands, Please use it and think of me 
Just hope it doesn't take another 6 years 
Best Regards,
Preston
-------------------- A few I enjoy,
and a few more in the works ;<)
|
Dougie
member
Reged: 07/02/08
Posts: 11
|
|
That scope is turning out extremely nice! I wish I had the tools you have
|
PrestonE
scholastic sledgehammer
   
Reged: 04/29/05
Posts: 817
Loc: Houston,Texas
|
|
To Joe and anyone else possibly interested in aquiring new tools and and skills this write up is for you...
The general question as I understand it is how did I gain the skills and tools to be able to do what I am now doing with this project.
I have long been interested in designing things. But just designing and then having to go and pay someone else to make the parts was both expensive and time consuming...time consuming, as first I had to generate the income, and second then had to wait for the part to hopefully be completed correctly the first time...
Thus, I decided that if I were to ever be able to overcome these obsticales...I should learn to do the work myself.
First, and this was before the availability of the internet...I purchased several good beganing machining books and read everything about the types of things that interested me in machining...Much of what I read made Little since at the time, but over time became more and more useful.
I started with the purchase of a round column mill/drill to be able to drill and mill small parts. That was Ok for a start, but now I would recommend a square column mill, as the collumn cannot rotate when doing heavier cuts...
Oh, and a word to the wise...Don't think that once you have the big machine like a mill of lathe that your home free dollar wise.
Over time, you will likely spend 2-3 times the price of the machine on tooling, but again that is over time and you need purchase only what you need to do a specific job or task at hand.
My second machine was a little combo lathe/mill that did not have any threading capacity...Ok for about 6 months, but when I could afford it, I purchased the Enco 12 x 36 lathe seen doing the Collimation Tube...that was in 1992.
The size of the machine that you purchase depends on what and where ones interest lays. If it is model airplane engines the Shurline (sp?) lathes and mills are just fine...
I guess it also depends on the area you have to be able to setup the machines and your budget...
I'll be the first to admit, of the machines in the machine part of the shop, the Bridgeport Mill, Hardinge Toolroom lathe, Harig surface grinder, and Hurco CNC mill, along with countless accessories were purchased for pennies on the dollar new prices on Ebay.
In the past few years, I'd keep a list of what tooling or machines that I would like and how much they would be worth to me in dollars that I would be willing to spend. Then I would wait until the item at MY price point came along and try to buy it then...
That's also when I learned about Skype, the Ebay servise that allows one to place a bid that will be entered just seconds before the end of bidding. I do not have to even watch the auction process and thus do not up bid my item.
If it closes at 2 am my time, my bid goes in at the last seconds and if I win Ok, if not, I have not spent more than I wanted and will normally find the same thing maybe even cheaper the next time....
As far a learning all the the skills that I use so far, they have all be learned through reading or self taught through trial and error. I'd say, that I progress with each and every project as you build more and more confidence. Yes, sometimes you ruin a part, but each time that happens, hopefully you learn from the experiance...like, don't do complicated things late in the afternoon when you are tired...
It's far better to wait until morning when one is fresh and very clear headed to do the complicated task...but, again this is something that is normally learned the hard way a few times and from what I have seen, not taught well for what ever reason.
I hope this helps those of you interested. If you have further specific questions I'll try to answer them if possible.
By the way, Most of the nicer equipment machinery has only been aquired in the past 5 years...
Thanks for all the nice comments.
Best Regards,
Preston
-------------------- A few I enjoy,
and a few more in the works ;<)
|
rwiederrich
Goldfinger
   
Reged: 11/17/05
Posts: 5981
Loc: Bremerton Washington
|
|
Quote:
Hi Rob, This is not the Baffold, but the Collimation Tube.
It only extends about 3 inches in front of the mirror, the rest lays behind the mirror front surface...
I'll try to get a drawing cross section up perhaps tomorrow afternoon is I'm not wanting to machine after having the teeth worked on...
Regards,
Preston
ps... nice use of the mill base 
Quote:
Quote:
Went from the 1.5 to 2.0 to 2.5 with the spade drills and then bored from 2.5" to 3.5 inches.
Here we face off the second end.
Now Preston...is this light baffle going to be *coned* or simply a tube?
Sweet work by the way..... 
I actually welded the cover for the upper bearing housing for my Mill project..I'm working on. 4 angular sides with 3 straight sides. It was fun. Finally primed it, and put it in place.
Gotta do some fine tuning, and then off to making the fork.
I am no way near the calibur of machinist you have demonstrated yourself to be.. 
Rob(I still use duct tape.... )well not really...but still....
OK...I understand. Yes..a drawing would put in all into perspective. I'm still very much inpressed. Even though I can't follow very well.... 
I finished welding the top plate cover for my mill pier. I'll get at some pics soon. KIds have the laptop in use.. Now I need to find some locking bolts for the RA shaft to secure the fork.
Rob
-------------------- www.goldmtobservingcenter.com
Providing a great place for amateur astronomers, and ATM's to come and enjoy their hobby.
|