THEPLOUGH
Nailed Again
Reged: 01/11/08
Posts: 3957
Loc: Carlisle, Cumbria, ENGLAND
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Quote:
Actually, only a few holes are necessary for screws to prevent any lengthwise sliding tendencies of the rails. The rest of the hold-downs can be 1/4" or #12 washers on #7 or #8 deck screws (I used 1-5/8" length screws). These can be put in at an angle (screw head out somewhat) against the sides of the angle at regular intervals. Leave about 1/4" of the first screw sticking up until you tighten the opposing one, then tighten the first one. I found this prevents pushing the rail sideways. The wheels will not come close to hitting the washers, as I have the same wheels as "Widowmaker" is getting. Here is an example picture of some of my "tests". It has not loosened in four months.
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Geoff...
Nexstar 8SE -- 9X50 RACI Finder scope... 6.3 F/R.-- 13 & 17mm Hyperion EPs.. 25mm Celestron E- Lux EP.. 2X Celestron X-Cel Barlow----- Celestron solar filter + A few bits and pieces..
Never give up on any one..... MIRACLES happen every day....
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Spoonsize
Vendor/Clothing
Reged: 08/27/04
Posts: 2184
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HMmmmm...It would seem to me, if one were to apply a block of wood at the ends of the rails in the right places, they would not only keep the rails in position, but also act as stops to keep the roof from rolling off and to position it in the proper place for closure.
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Steve Durham
www.margesmonograms.com
(Marge made me do it)
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John Fitzgerald
In Focus
Reged: 01/04/04
Posts: 1253
Loc: AR
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That would work, but maybe not as well as three or four pairs of screws. The stops for this type of wheel (rigid caster) should not bear against the wheel, but against the end of the side wall.
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?
Observing since 1966
Messier Cert #898
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csa/montana
Astro Ambassador
Reged: 05/14/05
Posts: 28619
Loc: montana
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Quote:
Thank you, Carol! Ive been wondering what to put there. I wouldnt mind the critters so much, but the only critters we seem to have is Black Widows, and I cant take that.
I thought about that plastic strip stuff you seein offices that they hide cords under.
I used outdoor acrylic caulk (with caulk gun) around mine. Depends on how wide the space is. Also, you don't want to use anything that will allow vibrations from the floor to transfer to the concrete.
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Carol
AstroTech 16" Dob (Thanks ASTRONOMICS!)
AstroTech 66ED / Vixen 80MF/AstroTech Voyager
Masuyama's 7.5, 15, 25W, 35mm,
Tak LE 5mm B/TMB 3.2
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DreamCatcher Dobservatory, #2
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Galaxyhunter
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 01/02/06
Posts: 894
Loc: Northern Illinois
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Quote:
That would work, but maybe not as well as three or four pairs of screws. The stops for this type of wheel (rigid caster) should not bear against the wheel, but against the end of the side wall.
castor lock
I have had this system for almost two years now without any adverse effect. It is a positive stop for travel & once closed there is no need for straps, turnbuckles, or load binders to hold the roof down.
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Carl
Hawkeye Observatory
Observatory - "Hawkeye"
Scope - 18"f4.5 on a GEM
8" f4.9 Orion piggy backed
Drive - Sitech Technology
DSC - Sky Commander
Planetarium - MegaStar
Camera - ST2000XM
Desire - comes & goes
Talent - ZERO, NONE, NADA (But I can Wish)
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csa/montana
Astro Ambassador
Reged: 05/14/05
Posts: 28619
Loc: montana
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Quote:
HMmmmm...It would seem to me, if one were to apply a block of wood at the ends of the rails in the right places, they would not only keep the rails in position, but also act as stops to keep the roof from rolling off and to position it in the proper place for closure.
On the particular motor BYO Observatories uses, Scott set up the stops with the motor itself.
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Carol
AstroTech 16" Dob (Thanks ASTRONOMICS!)
AstroTech 66ED / Vixen 80MF/AstroTech Voyager
Masuyama's 7.5, 15, 25W, 35mm,
Tak LE 5mm B/TMB 3.2
7mm Pentax XL, 10mm Pentax XW
14mm Meade 4000 UWA
22mm Pan, 35mm Pan
DreamCatcher Dobservatory, #2
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Snow dog
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 07/17/05
Posts: 1716
Loc: Alberta Canada
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Quote:
Looking good. Cutting and drilling the metal should not be that difficult providing you use the right blade and drill bit.
One more tip...Use plenty of cutting fluid or oil to lube the bit. Cutting dry you will blow through bits and blades in no time. And use a slower speed and moderate pressure when drilling too. High speed just heats up the bit and makes it get dull real quick. 
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Marc
Someone get these crazy dogs off me
12" LX200 Classic
ETX-90PE
Meade DSI
Canon AE-1, EOS Rebel 350
My Home Page
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WidowMaker
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 12/29/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Frankfort, Ky
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Hey yall.
Thanks for the help and tips.
I just went and got my pier and my angle Iron.
You shoulda seen us coming down the road with 20ft of angle iron hanging off the top of the wife's minivan, i bet that was a sight. 
The pier seems to weigh about 150-180lbs. Its kinda rusty looking too, I wonder if thats just how they come before being all prettied up.
They took it back in and drilled me a 2" hole up towards the top to pour sand or something into to help with vibrations.
Ill try to take a quick pic, but as ugly as it is now, I was gonna wait until I prettied it up.
I dont think I could do much better for $201.00 after tax.
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Sleep is the Cousin of Death
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WidowMaker
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 12/29/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Frankfort, Ky
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Ok, heres a few shots of the pier straight outta the van.
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Sleep is the Cousin of Death
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WidowMaker
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 12/29/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Frankfort, Ky
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One showing the hole they put in it.
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Sleep is the Cousin of Death
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WidowMaker
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 12/29/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Frankfort, Ky
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And the wife's van loaded up with angle Iron!
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Sleep is the Cousin of Death
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jgw12936
sage
Reged: 03/28/07
Posts: 353
Loc: The Woodlands, TX
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I like the pier! Don't worry about pouring any sand inside, with the footing you poured and a steel 180 lb pier I think you will be OK. Also, you might need to run something else inside the pier one day, like electrical wire etc.
Great job, can't wait to see more............
Jim
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Jim
C11 XLT
APM/TMB 80/480
AP 130 f6
Mach1GTO
Starlight Xpress SXVF-M25C
Starlight Xpress SXV-H9
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WidowMaker
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 12/29/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Frankfort, Ky
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Thanks alot, Jim. When you knock it with your knuckles, its got a little ring to it. Will that go away once its set and bolted down? Also, will a wire brush scoured all over the rusty part, make it ready for some flat black paint?
Also, I couldnt get them to drill holes in the angle iron, they press holes, not drill they said.
If I were to drill screw holes, can anyone tell me the size most put in it?
The wife wonders about putting screws in beside it and holding it down with washers. If we were to try to drill a hole, what size screw should I focus on?
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Sleep is the Cousin of Death
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Spoonsize
Vendor/Clothing
Reged: 08/27/04
Posts: 2184
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It would not take much to hold the angle iron down. I'd start with a pilot hole of 1/8th inch and then put a 1/4 inch hole max. Even then, you might need a washer to keep a screw head from being pulled thru.
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Steve Durham
www.margesmonograms.com
(Marge made me do it)
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oldsalt
Astro Philosopher
Reged: 02/12/05
Posts: 7958
Loc: Pa - between starparties
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Use stainless screws fro decking, will require a 1/8th drill bit.
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Rusty
Postmaster
Reged: 08/06/03
Posts: 16399
Loc: Brooker, FL
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To refurbish the pier, I'd suggest havingit sandblasted, then spray a couple of coats of cold galvanizing spray. If you want to de-rust it yourself, after sanding/wirebrushing as much of the rust off as possbile, use a phosphate primer to neutralize the remaining oxidation, then the cold galvanizing spray.
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N11GPS Fastar
TOA-130S
MK66 Std
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Two not-spoiled Golden Retrievers - Maggie and Casey
Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke
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John Fitzgerald
In Focus
Reged: 01/04/04
Posts: 1253
Loc: AR
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11/64 holes worked best for the 1-5/8 "treated lumber" screws.
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?
Observing since 1966
Messier Cert #898
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WidowMaker
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 12/29/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Frankfort, Ky
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Hey Yall. Thanks for the ideas and help, Everyone.
We decided to skip drilling since my drill is worthless and went with John's idea to anchor the iron down with 1 5/8" deck screws with a #12 washer pinning the iron down.
We put one side up and did it that way and it seems like it aint gonna move for nothing. I guess I could always drop some screws in it too if I really needed to drill into it, but the way it is now, the wall should fall down before the angle iron moves.
We worked until dark and the only light I had was the little built in light from the drill.
I also bought some 'Rustoleum" (sp?) primer and some Rustoleum flat black paint.
I got hard core scrubbing pads, very coarse sand paper, and a wire brush just to be sure one of them had to work.
Ill have to look into that cold galvanizing spray, I dont know if the primer is phosphate, Ill have to check.
I scraped a little piece of rust off and of course I dont know much about it, but It doesnt seem that badly rusted.
When they drilled the hole for adding sand or whatever I want, the little piece fell out in the garage and the inside of it was nice, clean and smooth.
Ill see if this camera will take a pic of the angle iron side we did. Im curious to see what others think.
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Sleep is the Cousin of Death
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WidowMaker
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 12/29/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Frankfort, Ky
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Ok, I tried to take a picture but luckily its so dark back there its hard to tell if anything is being picked up.
Heres a few shots of how we did the angle iron.
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Sleep is the Cousin of Death
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WidowMaker
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 12/29/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Frankfort, Ky
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You can only see one side, but we ran a chalk line and came in a half inch like the plans called for and there are screws on the other side as well.
We also came in 4" from the south wall like the plans say.
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Sleep is the Cousin of Death
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