WidowMaker
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 12/29/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Frankfort, Ky
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And one last one.
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Sleep is the Cousin of Death
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John Fitzgerald
In Focus
Reged: 01/04/04
Posts: 1253
Loc: AR
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I had to invest in some new tools for my project. You can get a Ryobi corded drill with screw driving clutch at Home Depot for about $40. You will need somthing like this for the roofing screws. A cordless just won't be adequate for the roofing screws. Too slow, and too many battery changes. I used over 400 screws in my roof and roof trim. The drill I mentioned will be adequate for this project, no need to get a DeWalt or better.
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?
Observing since 1966
Messier Cert #898
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Spoonsize
Vendor/Clothing
Reged: 08/27/04
Posts: 2184
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It MIGHT be best to screw one angle/rail solid and leave only a few screws holding the second rail. After the roof frame is up, moving it along the rails might pinch, in which case, remove the few screws holding the second rail and let it self adjust as the roof rolls, and then screw it solid.
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Steve Durham
www.margesmonograms.com
(Marge made me do it)
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o1d_dude
o1der than dirt
Reged: 10/03/07
Posts: 1431
Loc: The Big Tomato, California
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Quote:
I had to invest in some new tools for my project. You can get a Ryobi corded drill with screw driving clutch at Home Depot for about $40. You will need somthing like this for the roofing screws. A cordless just won't be adequate for the roofing screws. Too slow, and too many battery changes. I used over 400 screws in my roof and roof trim. The drill I mentioned will be adequate for this project, no need to get a DeWalt or better.
For the past few years, I've been using a Ryobi 18v impact driver for building fences, putting up pickets, and otherwise driving deck screws into various bits of wood. Once you experience an impact driver, you will never again use your drill to drive screws.
An impact driver will drive decks screws right through your wood if you not careful but it will not torque the unit out of your hand like a drill does. It's a very very slick technology.
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Kit
"There's only two things that excite a man, expensive toys and real expensive toys." - Red Green
* A bunch of old ATM stuff that cost me next to nothing
* A bunch of new commercial stuff that cost me an arm and a leg
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Rusty
Postmaster
Reged: 08/06/03
Posts: 16399
Loc: Brooker, FL
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Quote:
I also bought some 'Rustoleum" (sp?) primer and some Rustoleum flat black paint.
I got hard core scrubbing pads, very coarse sand paper, and a wire brush just to be sure one of them had to work.
Ill have to look into that cold galvanizing spray, I dont know if the primer is phosphate, Ill have to check.
I scraped a little piece of rust off and of course I dont know much about it, but It doesnt seem that badly rusted.
The phosphate primer (names like "Phos-Go" - thin, greenish stuff) chemically neutralizes rust remaining after mechanical removal. Cold galvanizing spray prevents (or suppresses) new rust. I'd clean the inside of the pier and spray with cold galvanize, too.
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N11GPS Fastar
TOA-130S
MK66 Std
Vintage C5
Megrez II 80mm ED Triplet APO
SolarMax 40
NJP Temma II
Sirius EQ-G
ST8XE/CFW-8(LRGBHa)/AO-7/DF-2/STV Dlx/ST237a/350D (Unmodded)/Mallincam Color Hyper Plus/DSI III Color/DSI II Pro
Two not-spoiled Golden Retrievers - Maggie and Casey
Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke
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John Fitzgerald
In Focus
Reged: 01/04/04
Posts: 1253
Loc: AR
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"Widowmaker" - here is a pic of my outside track. Most are screws with washers bearing against the track, but note that some are screwed through the metal.
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?
Observing since 1966
Messier Cert #898
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WidowMaker
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 12/29/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Frankfort, Ky
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Hey, Everyone.
Sorry I missed ya yesterday, The wife was trying to dump all these pics after we got done lastnight and I fell asleep waiting.
We went and got two 6x6x16's because no lumber company in our town, the next town, or even lexington had 4x6's that were longer than 12'.
We used the 6x6"s as our posts and I hope I never see another 16' 6x6. Those things are monsters. This part of the observatory was by far the pits.
Yesterday it took us all day to figure out how to come up with a way to allow my roof to come off 18' with only 12' boards to work with.
Since the only boards we could find tall enough to meet up with our notch pieces at the top of the North wall were 6x6x16 we were forced to use them.
Its only 12' tall but with only 12' boards, we couldnt bury and secure anything unless we used the 16' boards.
We then decided to set the 6x6 in at 11'10" so we could secure a 4x6x12 to the top of it then wed have to cut another 4x6 to 6'6" to come out the rest of the way, and allow 6" for a butt board.
Then we came up with the idea of cutting a leftover piece of 4x6 and putting it at the top of our 6x6 to form a "T" which would give us a little something more to rest our 4x6 on and about a foot and a half to rest the 6' piece of 4x6 on that we needed to bring the roof all the way out.
Following me so far? 
We then cut the top of the 6x6x16 enough to compensate for a 4x6 PLUS the 4x6 that would have went there anyway to fit into the notch at the North end of the roof that our angle iron will run down.
Its interesting. Ill say that much.
Our only problem was with the crooked 4x6's.
We tried our best to find some good ones, but when it came time to line them up on top of the 6x6 "T", they arent exactly perfect.
Were dissapointed.
We *HOPE* that we can still run our angle iron down it with no problems.
I hate to say it, but somehow our Eastern side 6' piece that hangs off the back of the "T" seems horrible. It would not butt up against the other 4x6 that attaches to the osb, and now looks like its hanging down a little bit.
We have three options: undo that 6' piece and try again. Scrap the additional 6' and never use the slab I made for the pier (since the roof would cover it) and turn that additional 6' of osb into a warm room, or get another 6x6 to go under the end of the 4x6 that looks like its leaning towards the ground.
Its got a ton a metal holding it together and it doesnt seem like it would budge, but It just looks awful.
Were both totally sun burnt, and havent eatn all day so heres some pics then Ive got left over pizza calling my name. 
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Sleep is the Cousin of Death
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WidowMaker
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 12/29/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Frankfort, Ky
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Please be gentle with the laughter, were already hurt by how it turned out anyways.
Once yesterday and once today we wondered if we could just throw in the towel and see if Scott woudl come and finish it. 
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Sleep is the Cousin of Death
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WidowMaker
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 12/29/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Frankfort, Ky
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It got dark awfully fast, sorry the pics are so dark.
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Sleep is the Cousin of Death
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WidowMaker
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 12/29/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Frankfort, Ky
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Those posts might not look so big in these pics, but those 6x6x16's were the worst part of this whole observatory!
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Sleep is the Cousin of Death
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John Fitzgerald
In Focus
Reged: 01/04/04
Posts: 1253
Loc: AR
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Do you plan to put in some substantial braces?
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?
Observing since 1966
Messier Cert #898
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WidowMaker
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 12/29/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Frankfort, Ky
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Thats what we were wondering about.
Most of the weight will be sitting secure on the 4x6 when the roof is open, only 6ft. of the roof will be out on the end.
We were wanting to put another post right at the end of the 6ft piece hanging off the end just to be safe though.
Im about 185lbs and I hung off the end of it, it doesnt seem to be going anywhere, but i would feel better with something there. Just the thought of another 16' 6x6 makes me want to give golf another try instead. Ya know?
Another option is to put one of these floating foundation thingies we have left over under that remaining 6ft piece and try to run a 4x6x12 up to the end.
What would you suggest?
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Sleep is the Cousin of Death
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John Fitzgerald
In Focus
Reged: 01/04/04
Posts: 1253
Loc: AR
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Look at the "Y" and "X" bracing on some of the other observatories pictured in these threads. You need to add that kind of bracing, and it should be strong bracing. You will have live loads of many hundreds of pounds, plus wind loading.
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?
Observing since 1966
Messier Cert #898
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Bowmoreman
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 09/11/06
Posts: 2992
Loc: Bolton, MA
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I think in the process of adding Y, you could "lift" up that droopy piece a bit, and then "lock it" in place...
just a thought
clear enough skies
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Dave
Ustream
YLive
XT10i, RTP, CGE, R200CF, TMB80SS
31T5, 22T4, 13Ethos, 8Ethos, TV 3-6 Zoom; Paracorr
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WilderSkiesObservatory(BYO #90)
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Spoonsize
Vendor/Clothing
Reged: 08/27/04
Posts: 2184
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Ypu...it could use some bracing ...hopefully you'll be able to find some wood that is ASCOB....
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Steve Durham
www.margesmonograms.com
(Marge made me do it)
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Bowmoreman
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 09/11/06
Posts: 2992
Loc: Bolton, MA
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Bingo!
Heres a thought on how to get that droopy one up just a bit, before you lock it in place with that Y bracing.
You might haveone of those hydraulic car jacks (they're pretty cheap and they can lift, like 2000 or more pounds...
anyways... put it on some scrap wood on the ground, and then put a 2x4 or 4x4 on it, wedged up against the bottom of your "droopster" (all the way out at the far end for the best leverage...
Then "jack the bejeebers outta it" til its level.
Then nail in the Y brace so's everythings under tension...
You don't want it not level, because depending on how far out of level it is, your wheel(s) on that side/end might have the potential to come up/off the track... that would be BAD.
It doesn't have to be perfectly level, though, but just jack it and tack it as close as possible.
but you really do need bracing
clear enough skies
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Dave
Ustream
YLive
XT10i, RTP, CGE, R200CF, TMB80SS
31T5, 22T4, 13Ethos, 8Ethos, TV 3-6 Zoom; Paracorr
MallincamColorHyperPlus,SBIG STV&237A;CanonRebel Xti
WilderSkiesObservatory(BYO #90)
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Siderea
Astronomess
Reged: 11/21/05
Posts: 1651
Loc: Novato
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What if you flipped the sagging beam over so it bowed up, and the weight of the beam might compress the warp and bring it back closer to level?
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Clear skies and pumpkin pies!
lc Carol
60mm Telescope Club
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David Pavlich
Postmaster
Reged: 05/18/05
Posts: 6542
Loc: Mandeville, LA USA 30.38 X 90....
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You might consider another column between the observatory and the existing column. That's a long span there.
David
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A few scopes and mounts.
Proud Member; PAS NOLA,
Life expectancies would go WAY up if green vegetables smelled like bacon...
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Bowmoreman
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 09/11/06
Posts: 2992
Loc: Bolton, MA
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I dunno, David... 6" x 6" is some SERIOUS lumber... it should have no trouble spanning 10-12 feet (or more)... I'd be more concerned about the overhang of 6 feet with no support.
Hence the Y bracing requirement
I can't imagine how you lifted those up there, Michael - was it just you and your wife??? 
clear enough skies
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Dave
Ustream
YLive
XT10i, RTP, CGE, R200CF, TMB80SS
31T5, 22T4, 13Ethos, 8Ethos, TV 3-6 Zoom; Paracorr
MallincamColorHyperPlus,SBIG STV&237A;CanonRebel Xti
WilderSkiesObservatory(BYO #90)
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John Fitzgerald
In Focus
Reged: 01/04/04
Posts: 1253
Loc: AR
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I think he just needs large diagonal braces from the back wall of the bldg, and from three sides of the support column. Kind of like this rough idea:
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?
Observing since 1966
Messier Cert #898
Edited by John Fitzgerald (06/09/08 01:47 PM)
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