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Troubleshooting FAQ | Problems? PM a Red or a Green Gu.... uh, User
Anonymous
Unregistered
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I recently purchased the 2130AT and basic camera adapter (with Nikon ring) to do some shots of the moon but I can't get it to focus. I know there is a slight difference between the Nikon digital SLRs and standard 35mm SLRs which causes some vigneting problems with older lenses. Does this also make the standard photo adapter incompatible? Is there some sort of modification I can make to the adapter? Is there another adapter I can use instead of the basic Meade?
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BluewaterObserva
Post Laureate
Reged: 05/18/04
Posts: 4763
Loc: Zuni Mtns, NM
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Pretty common with setup, not truly meant for imaging.
Most times the camera needs to be places seemimgly much closer. Many people try to max their colimation bolts on their primary to move it forward enough. Then use an extension tube for visual work.
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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I'm pretty new to this stuff and would rather not mess with the mirror colimation bolts if possible. I also use it for regular viewing so it would be better if I could modify the photo adapter to work with the telescope. Do we know what the distance should between the secondary mirror to the CCD on the camera?
I found one place that said I should be using a Barlow so I tried the 3x barlow that came with it but still no luck focusing.
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BluewaterObserva
Post Laureate
Reged: 05/18/04
Posts: 4763
Loc: Zuni Mtns, NM
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Close, very close. That's the deal, you really can't lower the focuser, but extending it is easy with an extension tube.
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Jon Isaacs
Postmaster
Reged: 06/16/04
Posts: 12070
Loc: San Diego, California
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Most Newtonians will not come to focus with a 35 mm camera, the mirror needs to be moved up towards the camera or visa versa.
Regarding the mirror collimation bolts. At some point you will need to understand how to collimate your scope. One of the bugaboos of Newtonians is that they do require collimation (alignment) in order to achieve proper performance and it is quite rare for a Newt to retain collimation for long periods of time, let alone arrive in proper colliation.
Probably the simplest solution at this time is to just try some "afocal" photography. This simply means that you hold the camea with its lens up the telescope's lens and take a picture. Care is needs, there are adapters too that will steady things up.
One thing to be careful about (beside damaging your lenses) is to avoid spending too much cash. Rigs that are capable of doing quality photography are expensive and it is easy to spend the big bucks without having much to show for it. The mount is really the most important and expensive component.
Jon
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