MaxTheHitman
member
Reged: 12/11/07
Posts: 95
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hey people!!!!!!!!!
I need help after yesterday's 104 mins(30,30,30,14) of exposure!from the milkway to jupiter! to the wild duck cluster. As you know im using a kodak 400 ultra(only option). I wanna know what to tell the developer of the film to do so inorder not to destroy my film )!!!!!!!!! I shot with a canon 35mm film F/1.1 mounted on cg5!with tracking!
thanks! 
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6" acrhomatic refractor F/5
CG5-GT
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ClownFish
Post Laureate
Reged: 04/26/05
Posts: 5456
Loc: Washington, DC
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First, I would tell him to NOT cut the negatives!
Then ask him to "push process" the film 2 stops.
Third, he is to print all shots that show ANYTHING reguardless of it looks blurred or underexposed. It is better if you can stay there and look at the negatives when he gets them developed and then select the ones to print.
Just be sure he does NOT cut them. Have the negative rolled back up and placed in a film canester.
CF
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Keep it simple, keep it cheap! Meade LXD75 SN8, Orion Guidescope, Olympus OM-1 and STI Stiletto. Celestron 15x70 Binos and SkyWindow. Learn all about POLAR ALIGNMENT with my Drift Method Tutorial and simulator!!
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ClownFish
Post Laureate
Reged: 04/26/05
Posts: 5456
Loc: Washington, DC
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PS:
Do not compare what you get back with Kodak 400 with much "slower" E200 film. The E200 will blow the 400 ASA film out of the water. That's becuase film ASA speed has nothing to do with low-light sensitivity during long time exposures. The "slower" E200 is MUCH better at long exposures while the faster Kodak 400 will be as slow as mud after a few minutes of exposure.
CF
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Keep it simple, keep it cheap! Meade LXD75 SN8, Orion Guidescope, Olympus OM-1 and STI Stiletto. Celestron 15x70 Binos and SkyWindow. Learn all about POLAR ALIGNMENT with my Drift Method Tutorial and simulator!!
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jrw11
sage
Reged: 06/09/07
Posts: 489
Loc: U.S.A.
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I agree with Clownfish 100%! I have found that shooting color that slide film is better then negative film. The labs can't mess that up as easily.
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Celestron C6n -HD Reflector
dual axis drive motors added
Orion 80mm Short tube refractor
Skyscout
Early 70's Pentax 7x50
Garrett Optical 12x60
Garrett Optical 15x70
Oberwerk 20x80 Standards
Canon Rebel Ti (film)
4 Minolta Srt cameras
Mamiya RB67 Pro-s with 180 lens
127mm KL lens for RB, Bellows hood for RB67
120 and 220 film backs
over 50 other film cameras
several eyepieces
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MaxTheHitman
member
Reged: 12/11/07
Posts: 95
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If i ever find a slide film I would buy it....but I can't since all I find is that kodak 400 ultra.I just hope this time the negative doesn't have blank in it !!!! like last time(2 mins exposure)
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6" acrhomatic refractor F/5
CG5-GT
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tommyhawk13
sage
Reged: 09/28/07
Posts: 371
Loc: Jacksonville, Fl
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Can you get Fuji Superia X-tra 400? It will do a fair job at 1/2 an hour.
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Meade Starfinder 8 GEM AC RA Drive 203mm f/6
Meade SN-8 OTA 203mm f/4
Orion Guidescope 80mm f/11.4
Orion Atlas non goto
Yashica FX-2 and FX-7 35mm film cameras
Olympus Om-1
Stiletto IV Pro ronchi/knife edge focuser
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MaxTheHitman
member
Reged: 12/11/07
Posts: 95
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I just got off the phone with 3 fuji film companies and asked them if they had slide film and they said no.Well all I have left is 2 kodak ultra 400 rolls and thats the end of my film astrophotography because im going DSLR in like 8 days!Tomorrow I send the film
thanks for the help!
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6" acrhomatic refractor F/5
CG5-GT
Edited by MaxTheHitman (07/02/08 02:10 PM)
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huckabuck
sage
Reged: 02/18/07
Posts: 251
Loc: statesboro, ga
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i have mine put straight to disc. its 75% cheaper than prints and i can choose what to print after using photoshop
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astrokwang2
super member
Reged: 05/06/04
Posts: 127
Loc: Florida
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One trick I use when shooting 'print negatives' is to expose EVERY OTHER frame with a well-lit subject (like a flashlight faced toward the camera). This makes the frame demarcations obvious for the lab tech.
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LT_Ng
member
Reged: 12/07/03
Posts: 86
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Hello,
For me, I would
1. look for a professional lab, if possible, to do the developping
2. just like CF, tell them to NOT cut the film strip,
3. if frame boarder obvious on strip, look for a printing shop with experience in printing astrophotos to ask for printing the selected frame,
4. for better results expected, provide the shop with some sample photos for their reference to know what requirements are wanted.
5. if having a film scanner, scan the film for some processing and then ask for printing directly from the file w/o any adjustment.
For me, I like photo print other than those from inkjet print.
My 2 cents,
LT
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jrw11
sage
Reged: 06/09/07
Posts: 489
Loc: U.S.A.
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Here's one place that has several slide films.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/
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Celestron C6n -HD Reflector
dual axis drive motors added
Orion 80mm Short tube refractor
Skyscout
Early 70's Pentax 7x50
Garrett Optical 12x60
Garrett Optical 15x70
Oberwerk 20x80 Standards
Canon Rebel Ti (film)
4 Minolta Srt cameras
Mamiya RB67 Pro-s with 180 lens
127mm KL lens for RB, Bellows hood for RB67
120 and 220 film backs
over 50 other film cameras
several eyepieces
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TxStars
sage
Reged: 10/01/05
Posts: 386
Loc: Lost In Space
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Did someone say they were looking for film ? lol
You can look here for almost most any film:>
https://www.freestylephoto.biz/e_main.php
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http://txstars.org
Tak FC-50
Tak FCT-65
Tak FC-100
"SCUZZO" 300/1.1
Camera Nikon F2 / Mamiya press 6x7 ,6x9 yay Film
Lenses Yes Many - lol
Mount - GoTo by hand and eye
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MaxTheHitman
member
Reged: 12/11/07
Posts: 95
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well I only have 2 films left them im out from film!!!.hey astro wouldn't that blur the film!? if I expose it to a well lit subject. I closed all the lights but the only lights one where these tall street lamps. I have a flashlight I will try that tonight and see. say folks can somebody tell me how to take a shot like the Stars wars movie warp drive (not star trail)!all I read was you use the zoom button!?steps?!
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6" acrhomatic refractor F/5
CG5-GT
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TxStars
sage
Reged: 10/01/05
Posts: 386
Loc: Lost In Space
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I don't own a zoom lenses but I would guess that if you pointed one straight up and slid the zoom ring up, that over time it could slip down changing the fl of the lense.
I imagine that an older lense would work better as it would have become loose over time.
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http://txstars.org
Tak FC-50
Tak FCT-65
Tak FC-100
"SCUZZO" 300/1.1
Camera Nikon F2 / Mamiya press 6x7 ,6x9 yay Film
Lenses Yes Many - lol
Mount - GoTo by hand and eye
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astrokwang2
super member
Reged: 05/06/04
Posts: 127
Loc: Florida
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Hi max, it won't blur the film. Or do you mean it will bleed over to the dark frame? The flashlight trick is just to make
sure that the lab tech knows where the frames are...
The idea behind the technique was to shoot one frame of a bright object (flashlight), then a celestial target, then the bright object again.
When I started shooting film back in 80's, the lab would sometimes cut the negative in the MIDDLE of the frame because they couldn't tell which spaces were exposed on the negatives. 
Yes, it's safer to have them NOT cut the negative. And yes,it's better to use a professional lab that has experience in developing astrophotos.
But most of the smaller professional labs are gone now.
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astrokwang2
super member
Reged: 05/06/04
Posts: 127
Loc: Florida
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Quote:
if you pointed one straight up and slid the zoom ring up, that over time it could slip down changing the fl of the lense.
LOL. Been there, done that. I've even used duct tape to fix the zoom. Not a recommended solution.
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TxStars
sage
Reged: 10/01/05
Posts: 386
Loc: Lost In Space
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Hose clamp and the silver AC type duct tape for a pro finish.
--------------------
http://txstars.org
Tak FC-50
Tak FCT-65
Tak FC-100
"SCUZZO" 300/1.1
Camera Nikon F2 / Mamiya press 6x7 ,6x9 yay Film
Lenses Yes Many - lol
Mount - GoTo by hand and eye
|
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