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Simulcop
member
Reged: 08/08/07
Posts: 26
Loc: Bogotá, Colombia
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Hi
Here i go again.
My next target is an 13mm Nagler T6. This is for use in my WO ZSII 80mm FL545 and sometimes with a TV barlow 2x. I'll try to get it from the second hand market and have some questions. In astromart are selling one that said "Japanese version", what other versions are? the Japanese version is better than the others? I do not wear glasses, how Is the 12mm ER? How much is a fair price for one of this in mint conditions including CONUS shipping and paypal fees. How would this work with the barlow?
Tnx for your advice.
Javier
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AZStarGuy
super member
Reged: 05/05/08
Posts: 152
Loc: Scottsdale AZ
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I can't comment on the Japanese version - never knew there was one AND that's not to say it isn't possible? I just don't know.
Eye Relief is whatever you're used to. I came from Orthos & Konigs - typically very short ER. The ER on the 13 Nagler is a breath of fresh air for me. It is tied with the 24mm Panoptic as my favorite EP in my case. You will use it on just about everything one way or another.
I picked mine up used for $220. They range $220 - $240 on Amart and pop up all the time.
On your 80mm it's going to yield almost 2 degrees of view at 41x. You ought to have great contrast and pick up faint fuzzies a little easier. Throw a 2.5x Powermate at it and you're just over 100x. Nice combo!
Other considerations would be 14 Pentax XW - tougher to come by used - but I think better ER? You'd have to check. More $ too...
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Ron
8" f6 Eq Newt
24PAN, 13T6,7T1,6RAD,5RAD,4 & 3.2 Planetaries
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Tom Trusock
Reged: 02/26/02
Posts: 27299
Loc: Alternate Reality (TM)
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I don't observe with glasses, and I find the ER on the t6's just about perfect. I've not noted any difference between the "made in japan" naglers, and the others. They all have to meet QC, so it's never really concerned me. If you get a 13 marked "made in japan" be certain it's the t6, not the t1. Offhand, I don't recall where the t6's were made.
If you're looking for more ER in that focal length, and want to keep the 82 deg afov you might keep a lookout for a 12mm t4.
T
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There are two theories to arguing with my wife. Neither one works.
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David E
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 05/25/06
Posts: 1729
Loc: North Carolina
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I absolutely love my 13mm Nagler T6!  It's my most used eyepiece in any telescope I have, from short tube refractors to my 8" Dob. Don't worry about what country it was made in. All Televue eyepieces are tested at Televue before shipping out to the dealers. They all meet the same high standards. I find the eye relief very comfortable. I have some local lighting to contend with, so I bought an Orion winged eye cup (I don't know if you can buy from Orion in Columbia, they are Telescope dot com). I don't use mine with a barlow or Powermate, but I've read that others have used Naglers with Barlows with good results. If someone asked me, "if I buy only one Televue eyepiece, what should it be?" the 13mm T6 first comes to mind.
David E
North Carolina USA
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David E
So when at times the mob is swayed
To carry praise or blame too far,
We may choose something like a star
To stay our minds on and be staid.
-Robert Frost
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Rob S
sage
Reged: 03/16/07
Posts: 408
Loc: NZ
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I got my 13T6 in April last year and it was made in Japan. I got a 7T6 at the same time and it was also Japanes. My 5T6 I got in November was also Japanese.
My friend got 5, 9 and 13T6's in August last year, all Japanese.
I think there may have been a change though as I now here of people saying their 13T6 is Taiwanese. Shouldn't matter though, both Ethos are Taiwanese (and so is the 31T5 IIRC).
Rob.
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8" f5 Dob with Feathertouch
Brandon: 16
Pentax: 7, 10 & 20XW
TMB: 30 Paragon
TV: 8 & 13 Ethos;
5 & 13 NaglerT6;
24 Panoptic;
Leica Trinovid 8x50 BN
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Shawn H
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 05/16/07
Posts: 1080
Loc: Southern France 43°56'N-4°50'E
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Ah David!
You never looked through a 12mm Nagler t4??? OK the 12 & 13 are pretty close, but now both have been beaten by the 13 Ethos§ Shawn (ex Tarheel)
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xt10i with Telrad on 4" risers & feather touch focuser & huge Boston Red Sox decal
Starblast
15x70 Celestron Skymasters
35Stratus
27Pan
13 Ethos
8 Ethos
Orion ultrablock
Astronomik OIII
Tele Vue 2x barlow
Antares 1.6x barlow (2")
CATSEYE collimation tools
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KWB
Postmaster
Reged: 09/30/06
Posts: 7619
Loc: Westminster,Co Elev.1646Meters
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Not that it matters but I'm not aware of any T6 eyepiece that doesn't have Japan stamped on one. All 3 of mine had Japan on them.
I don't have to wear glasses with the shorter focal length versions of the T6. I find the eye relief to be near optimum for myself. Love it. YMMV
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Kenny
"When dealing with a mystery,choose the most unlikely of the likely possibilities"-Sherlock Holmes
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Albie
Post Laureate
Reged: 02/22/05
Posts: 3513
Loc: Alberta,Canada
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I had a 13T6 and it's made in Japan as well as the 5,7 and 9mmT6's that I have.My 16T5 and 26T5 are both made in Taiwan ROC.The T5's are my personal favorites of the Naglers I have owned in fact the T5's seem to be personal favorites of many nagler owners.Perhaps the ones made in Taiwan are the best?  The T4's are made in Taiwan as well and many people prefer them over the Japanese made T6's(mostly because of er I imagine).So I'll wager that it doesn't matter where Naglers are made, they are all fabulous 
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Skywatcher 10" f/4.7 Dob with Moonlight CR1
Televue 2x barlow and 5T6,7T6,9T6,16T5 and 26T5 Televue Naglers.
SkyMaster 15x70,Regal LX 8x42 and Noble 10x28
Edited by Albie (08/06/08 04:33 PM)
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Edwin Quiroga
sage
Reged: 01/31/08
Posts: 210
Loc: Miranda, Venezuela
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Quote:
Hi
Here i go again.
My next target is an 13mm Nagler T6. This is for use in my WO ZSII 80mm FL545 and sometimes with a TV barlow 2x. I'll try to get it from the second hand market and have some questions. In astromart are selling one that said "Japanese version", what other versions are? the Japanese version is better than the others? I do not wear glasses, how Is the 12mm ER? How much is a fair price for one of this in mint conditions including CONUS shipping and paypal fees. How would this work with the barlow?
Tnx for your advice.
Javier
¡Hola Javier!
I don´t have the 13T6, but I do have the 16T5. I think that it is not important, in this case, if is made in Japan or Taiwan. In both cases th QC is very rigorous at the New York Televue facilities. My 16T5 (excelentísima) is made in Taiwan (someone said that the Ethoi too) and it is an AWESOME eyepiece. The ER in the 13T6 (about 12mm)... very confortable in your case, with no spectacles. I can say you, besides, the naglers barlowing very good. My T5 with and without barlow became me in cuasi-immune to the Ethos mediatic raid. 
If you have the opportunity, go ahead! You cannot be wrong with the 13T6.
¡Saludos!
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TeleVue 85 w/FeatherTouch
Panoptic 35
Panoptic 24
Nagler 16 T5
Radian 6
Hyperion Baader Zoom 8-24
TeleVue Barlow 2x
TeleVue Powermate 5x
Orion Binoviewer
Pair of TeleVue plössl 20mm
Pair of RKE 15mm
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j3ffr0
sage
Reged: 07/06/08
Posts: 217
Loc: Virginia
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I got the 13 T6 a couple of weeks ago. It says Japan on it. It is my most used EP in both my Mak and Dob right now. It's great for clusters and all around DSO observing. Really a great all around mid range EP. If I had to go out with only one of the EPs I own, this would be it for sure.
The 12mm eyerelief is adequate. Some say it seems more like 10 or 11. I think that might be due to the prominence of the guard that around the lens. I'm barely used to the EP after just a few sessions with it. At first I stopped getting closer to it when I got saw around 50 or 60 degrees FOV, because that's what I was used too. You have to get closer to see the whole 82 degree field. It hasn't been a problem for me. I've never gotten close enough to touch the glass.
Nagler's hold their value well, so there is little risk in picking one up.
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10" Dob
127mm Mak
PST
35, 24 Panoptic; 16, 13, 9 Nagler
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SanDiegoPaul
professor emeritus
Reged: 07/22/05
Posts: 598
Loc: San Diego
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I have one and love it too. But for the internal reflections causing floaters - which nobody seemed to mention in this thread for some reason.
It is still a great EP though.
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Meade 10" Lx200-R with Moonlight SCT Focuser
Mitty Evolution Wedge
AT-80 Guide Scope
SBIG ST402ME CCD Imager
Canon Digital Rebel DSLR
Meade DSI-c CCD for Guiding
Please visit my gallery!
http://www.pbase.com/sandiegopaul/
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ErnieM
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 06/13/04
Posts: 1171
Loc: Phoenix,AZ
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I got my 13t6 for Christmas and it does have Japan stamped on it.My 27 Pan has Taiwan on it.But you know what?They are both fantastic EPs.
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Ernie
DSH8/ Crayford focuser
ST80 with 2" focuser on Astroview mount
7XL,10LX,13t6,17LX,22LVW,27 Pan,TV 32,SWA 26 & 38mm,TMBs,UOs,Sratus,and Viven 8x24 Zoom.
9x63 binos
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jcjr
professor emeritus
Reged: 01/06/08
Posts: 563
Loc: TN, USA
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Had a 13T6 about 1 week. The image is crisp to the edge and has noticeably better light transmission than my inexpensive eyepieces. It works equally well in an F10 and F3.75 scope.
Will learn to use it properly, but when I get close enough to see the field stop, my eyelashes brush the eyelens. After two nights, the 13T6 eyelens has been completely painted with skin oil. Never thought my eyelashes as freakishly long, but they must be at least 12mm long (grin). The eyelashes look no longer than perhaps 6mm, so perhaps my eye is inset too far behind the eyelashes. Dunno.
Had a Pan 24 for about a month (love it). The Pan 24 eyelens remains pristine clean, so apparently the extra 4mm eye relief on the Pan 24 is 'just enough extra' to avoid flogging the eyelens with eyelashes.
I don't mind getting so close to the eyelens, but do not enjoy cleaning EP's. Will practice hanging back from the 13T6 and just expect maybe a 68 degree AFOV. Which is fine, because 68 degrees looks pretty wide to me.
Am conflicted. Had been planning to get some more T6's, and a Pan 19. I like the crisp view and the small weight/size. But the Pan 19 and other T6's have similar eye relief to the 13T6. Getting more of em might just multiply the repetitive cleaning chore.
Or maybe with more practice, I won't routinely get the eyelens so nasty.
Have been surveying EP's perhaps equally crisp, but with at least 16mm eye relief, to fill out the slots with 'quality' EP's. Maybe Meade 5000 UW or Pentax XW, because the shorter focal lengths of those are not obscenely big/heavy...
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CPC 1100, C102SLT, SV F80, Meade 70 & 60 AZT
Q70 38mm, Pan24, Meade 5K 18mm UW, Axiom LX 15mm, Nagler 13T6, Axiom LX 10mm, Expanse 20mm, 9mm, 6mm, BO/TMB 5mm, 2.5mm
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Simulcop
member
Reged: 08/08/07
Posts: 26
Loc: Bogotá, Colombia
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Ok guys, that's all i need. Now i'm sure that's the way i'll go. Lets see how is the second hand market on a Nagler 13mm T6.
Tnx you all.
Regards
Javier
PD. Nice to see a brother from Venezuela (Un abrazo pana).
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Starman1
Vendor - Scope City
Reged: 06/24/03
Posts: 10920
Loc: Los Angeles
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Quote:
Hi
Here i go again.
My next target is an 13mm Nagler T6. This is for use in my WO ZSII 80mm FL545 and sometimes with a TV barlow 2x. I'll try to get it from the second hand market and have some questions. In astromart are selling one that said "Japanese version", what other versions are? the Japanese version is better than the others? I do not wear glasses, how Is the 12mm ER? How much is a fair price for one of this in mint conditions including CONUS shipping and paypal fees. How would this work with the barlow?
Tnx for your advice.
Javier
Type 6 Naglers are made in Japan--all of them.
12mm ER is comfortable w/o glasses. In fact, the rubber eyecup is 8mm tall, so you don't even have your eye buried in the cup when viewing through one. If you try to put your eye that far in, you will get blackouts.
New, they're $290 each. A good used price is $232.
It works great with a barlow.
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Don Pensack
12.5" Truss Dob, 5" Maksutov
Sustaining Lifetime IDA member, TeleVue junkie
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KWB
Postmaster
Reged: 09/30/06
Posts: 7619
Loc: Westminster,Co Elev.1646Meters
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I just sold a T6 Nagler in pristine condition for $200.00 U.S. dollars. Look around,good deals can be had but maybe not so much in Columbia.
BTW,welcome Javier.
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Kenny
"When dealing with a mystery,choose the most unlikely of the likely possibilities"-Sherlock Holmes
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jcjr
professor emeritus
Reged: 01/06/08
Posts: 563
Loc: TN, USA
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Quote:
12mm ER is comfortable w/o glasses. In fact, the rubber eyecup is 8mm tall, so you don't even have your eye buried in the cup when viewing through one. If you try to put your eye that far in, you will get blackouts.
I'm very ignorant of just about everything. Not trying to pick nits, but measuring my new 13T6 with digital calipers, I get less than 6 mm. I get maybe 5.4 mm from the eyecup top to the metal ring around the eylens, and maybe 5.5 or 5.6 mm from the eyecup top down to the bottom of the rubber eyecup (the eyecup bottom sits a little lower than the metal ring around the eyelens).
I was handholding the caliper and taking extreme caution not to scratch the lens, so there could be considerable measurement error. But I hope it was not ~2.5mm measurement error (grin).
It is a really impressive eyepiece.
Are you supposed to be able to see the field stop during normal operation? Or am I misunderstanding the basic idea of looking thru the thing?
My eyelashes touch the eyelens before my face touches the eyecup, and I have to move in a couple more mm until my eyebrow is lightly touching the eyecup before I can just barely see the fieldstop edge. That distance isn't uncomfortable, but the eyelashes make the eyelens real greasy!
Thanks!
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CPC 1100, C102SLT, SV F80, Meade 70 & 60 AZT
Q70 38mm, Pan24, Meade 5K 18mm UW, Axiom LX 15mm, Nagler 13T6, Axiom LX 10mm, Expanse 20mm, 9mm, 6mm, BO/TMB 5mm, 2.5mm
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ausastronomer
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 06/30/03
Posts: 765
Loc: NSW Central Coast (Australia)
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Quote:
If you get a 13 marked "made in japan" be certain it's the t6, not the t1. Offhand, I don't recall where the t6's were made.
T
Hi Tom,
I spoke at length about this topic (and many others) with Al Nagler at 2007 TSP. Al explained to me that he tried to split production of Televue eyepieces between the manufacturing plants in Taiwan and Japan. He indicated that generally the smaller eyepiece series were produced in the Japanese factory and the larger eyepieces (T4's, T5's, Panoptics and now ETHOS were produced at the Taiwanese factory. Al indicated the Taiwanese factory were "slightly" better set up tooling wise to produce the physically larger eyepieces, but each factory could quickly tool up to produce any eyepiece in the TV range. Al said this gave him comfort if ever issues arose with one manufacturer, because he could quickly switch all manufacturing to either Japan or Taiwan.
All the T6 Naglers are manufactured in Japan so someone claiming in an advert they have the "Japanese version" is yanking the chain. He has the same Japanese version as everyone else who owns a T6 nagler.
Cheers,
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John Bambury
AS of NSW
AS of Hunter Valley
18"/F4.5 Obsession with Argo Navis and Servocat, 10"/F5 Newtonian with Argo Navis
Lots of Pentax XW's. Plus 12mm & 17mm Nagler T4's, 31mm Nagler T5 & 13mm ETHOS. TV Paracorr and 2.5X Powermate
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Edwin Quiroga
sage
Reged: 01/31/08
Posts: 210
Loc: Miranda, Venezuela
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Quote:
PD. Nice to see a brother from Venezuela (Un abrazo pana).
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Starman1
Vendor - Scope City
Reged: 06/24/03
Posts: 10920
Loc: Los Angeles
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Quote:
Quote:
12mm ER is comfortable w/o glasses. In fact, the rubber eyecup is 8mm tall, so you don't even have your eye buried in the cup when viewing through one. If you try to put your eye that far in, you will get blackouts.
I'm very ignorant of just about everything. Not trying to pick nits, but measuring my new 13T6 with digital calipers, I get less than 6 mm. I get maybe 5.4 mm from the eyecup top to the metal ring around the eylens, and maybe 5.5 or 5.6 mm from the eyecup top down to the bottom of the rubber eyecup (the eyecup bottom sits a little lower than the metal ring around the eyelens).
I was handholding the caliper and taking extreme caution not to scratch the lens, so there could be considerable measurement error. But I hope it was not ~2.5mm measurement error (grin).
It is a really impressive eyepiece.
Are you supposed to be able to see the field stop during normal operation? Or am I misunderstanding the basic idea of looking thru the thing?
My eyelashes touch the eyelens before my face touches the eyecup, and I have to move in a couple more mm until my eyebrow is lightly touching the eyecup before I can just barely see the fieldstop edge. That distance isn't uncomfortable, but the eyelashes make the eyelens real greasy!
Thanks!
Actually, in this eyepiece, if you are far enough in to contact the eyecup, you are too close to the eyepiece. The field stop becomes visible several mm before your face touches the eyecup. Many people report blackouts with the Type 6 Naglers, and that is why--they think they have to touch the eyecup to see the whole field of view. If you move in slowly until your peripheral vision *just* sees the fieldstop, you will never touch the lens with eyelashes.
The eyecup is designed, I believe to reduce peripheral light hitting the eye, because the eye lens is fairly flat, which can reflect light back at the eye that is reflected off the cornea.
The coatings on this eyepiece are so good there essentially is no internal reflection, and the ghosts and light scatter people report is often due to the reflection off the cornea being reflected back by the eye lens, which is only an issue with planets and very bright stars.
--------------------
Don Pensack
12.5" Truss Dob, 5" Maksutov
Sustaining Lifetime IDA member, TeleVue junkie
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