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alchemist
member
Reged: 08/19/07
Posts: 87
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Hello,I have a 127mm Mak but I'd like to buy telescope but I don't know what kind of telescope to buy. My question is: buy a telescope for use it like a guide and use my 127Mak for imaging?? or buy a new telescope for imaging and use the Mak like a guide???
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walt r
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 02/13/07
Posts: 2417
Loc: Doylestown, PA
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How about a 80-90mm ED refractor at about f/6 mounted piggy back on the Mak. Then you could image or guide with either. The refractor would get wide field views and be tolerant of guide errors whereas the Mak could go for planets or once you have the mount guiding well some smaller deep space objects.
-------------------- Walt
Obsession 18" f/4.45 #1370 AN/SC
MK67 Deluxe 6" f/12 Mak-Cass, Super Polaris GEM, JMI MicroMax DSC
DIY 60mm f/6 Achromat
Cookbook 245 CCD
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Chris_H
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Reged: 11/24/03
Posts: 2858
Loc: Norway
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The 127Mak is a fantastic planetary imaging scope but not so good (due to the long focal lenght) for DSO imaging. Go for a refractor or Orions imaging reflector
-------------------- Chris
"Big Papa Smurf" (254mm f/4.7 Sky-Watcher Newt)
Custom Orion Optics 150mm f/8 reflektor "Planet Killer" (On its way!!!)
SPC900
Canon Powershot A610 (CHDK modded)
Canon 10D (modded)
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 USM L
My Website
Edited by Chris_H (08/11/08 11:05 AM)
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DaemonGPF
Pooh-Bah
   
Reged: 03/22/08
Posts: 1453
Loc: New Mexico
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Buy a fast ratio scope, couple it with your slow ratio scope (Mak) and then swap roles based on targets. In other words, guide with the fast ratio scope when imaging planets and image through the Mak, and when targeting DSOs, use the mak to guide. Then you get the best of both worlds.
-------------------- -Josh
*Orion Starblast Imaging 150mm OTA
*Orion Starblast Imaging 114mm OTA
*Meade 50mm AR short tube OTA
*Meade DSI Pro IIc
*Orion Starshoot DSCI
*CG5 mount
http://cleardarksky.com/c/AlbuqNMkey.html
My Messier Project Gallery
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jay52
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Reged: 09/26/04
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Yeah, you certainly couldn't use such a "slow" scope to take nice deep sky pictures of the heavens. Oh wait...
http://www.meade.com/photogallery/etx_gallery.html
Apparently, you can.
-------------------- jay
www.allaboutastro.com
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Chris_H
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Reged: 11/24/03
Posts: 2858
Loc: Norway
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No one said it wasn't possible Jay But I am assuming he is a beginner and with that kind of FOV, he will only get frustrated. I know because I had the same scope!
-------------------- Chris
"Big Papa Smurf" (254mm f/4.7 Sky-Watcher Newt)
Custom Orion Optics 150mm f/8 reflektor "Planet Killer" (On its way!!!)
SPC900
Canon Powershot A610 (CHDK modded)
Canon 10D (modded)
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 USM L
My Website
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jay52
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Reged: 09/26/04
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Okay, Chris, then don't confuse me by saying "focal ratio." If you'd said focal length I'd have been right there with you! LOL!
-------------------- jay
www.allaboutastro.com
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Chris_H
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Reged: 11/24/03
Posts: 2858
Loc: Norway
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ACK! My bad! Of course I meant focal length...
-------------------- Chris
"Big Papa Smurf" (254mm f/4.7 Sky-Watcher Newt)
Custom Orion Optics 150mm f/8 reflektor "Planet Killer" (On its way!!!)
SPC900
Canon Powershot A610 (CHDK modded)
Canon 10D (modded)
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 USM L
My Website
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groz
professor emeritus
   
Reged: 03/14/07
Posts: 541
Loc: Duncan, BC
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At 1540 mm focal length, the 127 mak is f/12, rather slow. What this means is, you need to do longer exposures than you would using a telescope in the f/8 range, typical of the smaller ed refractors.
I use the 127mak here, with a canon 300D, and get decent results with it mounted on my EQ6-Pro. I've got the ST-80 to use as a guide scope, and the combination gives me nice pinpoint round stars on exposures of 6 to 10 minutes. A few weeks ago we were in the telescope store, and saw a very nice 120mm refractor on sale used, for a really good price, and I was very tempted to pick it up. But then I got to thinking, and went a slightly different route instead. I bought the adapter for the mak that allows it to accept 2 inch SCT accessories. I also bought a 2 inch visual back, and a 0.63 focal reducer. The end result turns out to be 127mm telescope running at approximately 970mm focal length. That produces f/7.5 as a result, right in line with the ed refractors. With the fr attached, the mak does show a small amount of coma out on the edge of the field using the 300D, so I do have to crop at least a little.
The real issue trying to image with the mak 'out of the box' is twofold. First, the long focal length means a narrow field of view, and the slow f-ratio means long exposure. Both of these add up to a requirement for a mount that tracks very well. It works well for me because I have a good mount, but on my lesser mount (eq3n) I cannot get a decent photo with this telescope. So really, the question is not 'can I image with the 127mm mak', but rather 'Is my mount up to imaging with this telescope?'.
So, as is almost always the case for beginning imaging, the real question boils down to, what mount are you going to have it all riding on?
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jay52
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Reged: 09/26/04
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But this brings about the classic point as to why focal ratio means nothing when talking about CCD imaging!
Here's Mark Sibole's excellent Bubble nebula, an 84 minute total exposure taken with an ETX-125 at f/15...
http://www.meade.com/photogallery/etx/ngc7635_hi.jpg
Now, recommending newbies use an 80mm f/6 apo is smart in terms of the shorter focal length making things easier, but everybody is always under the misconception that it also makes for shorter exposures...not true!
If you hold to the classic belief that exposure time doubles for each f-stop increase, this scales such that if you double the f-ratio, you will quadruple the exposure time. In the example above, f/15 should be some 6x times slower than an f/6, using the conventional wisdom.
That would mean that you SHOULD be able to get the same image as above at f/6 with 1/6th the exposure time...but I promise you that you can't get an exposure like Mark's Bubble nebula in 1/6th of his 84 minutes.
Please, let's stop using old principles of terrestrial photography, where the f-stops change because the APERTURE changes. CCD imaging with a fixed aperture scope is entirely different. It's all about S/N ratio, and that means it's all about aperture!
If you want to caution people that the longer focal lengths require a better mount and that makes for tougher imaging, then great! However, the 127mm Orion f/12 Mak shouldn't pose any problems in terms of exposure times, as 5" of aperture is plenty.
-------------------- jay
www.allaboutastro.com
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yg1968
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Reged: 01/26/04
Posts: 1745
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Quote:
Now, recommending newbies use an 80mm f/6 apo is smart in terms of the shorter focal length making things easier, but everybody is always under the misconception that it also makes for shorter exposures...not true!
Jay, are you saying that a 200mm F5 scope and an 100mm F10 scope are the same in terms of time of exposure (because they have the same focal lenght of 1000mm)?
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jay52
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Reged: 09/26/04
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Quote:
Quote:
Now, recommending newbies use an 80mm f/6 apo is smart in terms of the shorter focal length making things easier, but everybody is always under the misconception that it also makes for shorter exposures...not true!
Jay, are you saying that a 200mm F5 scope and an 100mm F10 scope are the same in terms of time of exposure (because they have the same focal lenght of 1000mm)?
No, not at all. The 200mm scope will yield twice the S/N ratio of the 100mm scope. This means that when you go to stretch out the image, you be able to pull out more faint, clean detail from the larger aperture scope on the object you want detailed. This is NOT because the scope is f/5 as compared to f/10...it's because the scope has twice the aperture.
-------------------- jay
www.allaboutastro.com
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yg1968
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Reged: 01/26/04
Posts: 1745
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In other words, if I understand you correctly, a large telescope with a small focal ratio scope would be a good thing for two reasons:
1- the smaller focal lenght makes imaging easier on an average mount
2- the larger aperture makes for a better S/N ratio
But I wonder if you use a focal reducer on a larger scope. For example, a .33 or .63 reducer on a C11. Are you still better off because of the larger aperture of the C11 (despite the use of a focal reducer)?
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groz
professor emeritus
   
Reged: 03/14/07
Posts: 541
Loc: Duncan, BC
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Focal ratio DOES make a difference, and it's easily quantifiable mathematically, even for a ccd. Assume for a minute you are using a telescope/imager combination that produces exactly 1 arc-second per pixel of sky coverage. Now expose it for a given length of time onto a target area. Each pixel gets the photons from exactly 1 square arcsecond of sky.
Take the same imaging train, but, put a 0.5 focal reducer inline, so now the imager results in 2 arcseconds per pixel. That totals 4 square arcseconds of sky per pixel. Each pixel will catch 4 times as many photons, for the same camera noise (assuming no losses introduced by the fr) in the same length of exposure. Net result, lower resolution, but brighter image (higher snr), with wider field of view. Side effect, tracking errors appear to be half the size they would without the reducer for the same error.
You are correct that for ccd imaging the f-ratio calcs are not the same as for 'old style' photography, but, they are still significant, just in a different way.
Edited by groz (08/11/08 03:15 PM)
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jay52
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Reged: 09/26/04
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Quote:
In other words, if I understand you correctly, a large telescope with a small focal ratio scope would be a good thing for two reasons:
1- the smaller focal lenght makes imaging easier on an average mount 2- the larger aperture makes for a better S/N ratio
But I wonder if you use a focal reducer on a larger scope. For example, a .33 or .63 reducer on a C11. Are you still better off because of the larger aperture of the C11 (despite the use of a focal reducer)?
11" is 11". It depends on how you want to use it. If you want to take a picture of a galaxy, then 11" is going to capture the same number of photons FROM THAT GALAXY, regardless of the focal length of the instrument. Images of that object will process with the same object S/N (pixel S/N is entirely different and no longer matters anyway once you swamp out readnoise with skyglow), though because the longer focal length instrument is better "sampled," you will have more detail in the object.
-------------------- jay
www.allaboutastro.com
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jay52
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Reged: 09/26/04
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Quote:
Focal ratio DOES make a difference, and it's easily quantifiable mathematically, even for a ccd. Assume for a minute you are using a telescope/imager combination that produces exactly 1 arc-second per pixel of sky coverage. Now expose it for a given length of time onto a target area. Each pixel gets the photons from exactly 1 square arcsecond of sky.
Take the same imaging train, but, put a 0.5 focal reducer inline, so now the imager results in 2 arcseconds per pixel. That totals 4 square arcseconds of sky per pixel. Each pixel will catch 4 times as many photons, for the same camera noise (assuming no losses introduced by the fr) in the same length of exposure. Net result, lower resolution, but brighter image (higher snr), with wider field of view. Side effect, tracking errors appear to be half the size they would without the reducer for the same error.
You are correct that for ccd imaging the f-ratio calcs are not the same as for 'old style' photography, but, they are still significant, just in a different way.
Wrong. Totally.
Popular subject of late. Because I've posted a lot on this in other threads, I'll just do some copy and pasting. In short, there has always been too much misunderstanding regarding f-ratio vs. aperture.
First, I'll refer you to Stan Moore's articles on going deep with your images, particularly since you are the one that stated that this stuff is "quantifiable mathematically"...
http://www.stanmooreastro.com/f_ratio_myth.htm
http://www.stanmooreastro.com/eXtreme.htm
The central point is...f-ratio is a component of two INDEPENDENT aspects, aperture and focal length. When combined with the nature of how CCDs work, you can't just make a blanket statement about f-ratio that's accurate enough to cover all imaging scenarios. There is no rule of thumb.
Read noise is a major player in imaging, but that is easily overcome by imaging longer with each subexposure, or indeed, having a faster f-ratio scope. In other words, as a basic principle, we will use subexposures to overcome any noise attributed to read noise...called "sky limited" exposures. However, each object has a predictable, poisson noise ratio, also known as "shot" noise...which means that you inject noise into the image at the rate of the square root of the number of photons. If done correctly, this is the ONLY noise of real concern.
Practically speaking, this means that as you increase the number of photons of an object (or angular area of the sky), then the ratio of the signal to noise increases. As a simple example, if you have 16 photons for an object, then naturally you will have 4 units of noise (square root of 16). This is a 4:1 S/N. Once you stretch that out in processing, to show the details of the object, this may or may NOT be enough to demonstrate the object without "grain" or "noise." However, if you have a scope that delivers 100 photons for that same object, then you will have 10 units of noise...but that's a 10:1 ratio of signal to noise. Thus, when you stretch that out in processing, you have more signal that you can process...and less noise to hide.
Typically, as you double the aperture, then the S/N of the image doubles. Therefore, an 8" scope will produce twice the S/N of the 4" scope for given object, regardless of the focal ratio. This means that when you stretch the image of the 8" scope, you will have a cleaner image on that object of interest. THUS, we are most concerned with how many photons we can capture of an object, regardless of how many pixels it takes to do it...once we've overcome read noise, it really doesn't matter the number of pixels, as long as we aren't "over-sampled" - which means having too many pixels in an attempt to provide details that the seeing and mount can't provide anyway.
Now, if that object of interest is small, such as a galaxy in a widefield image of Markarian chain, then noise will be hidden by virtue of the fact that there's less of the object to show. However, you'll notice that the backgrounds might be pretty grainy when you blow it up, simply because there is less photons recorded in those areas (lower S/N). But because the field is so wide, incorporating a large FOV of the sky, then noise might not be as apparent in those small areas. It's naturally hidden by the enormous scale of the image. It's why your image looks great when displayed at 640 pixels on your webpage, but looks like cr@p when displayed at 1200 pixels.
In summary, "noise" can be defined as the "uncertainly" of your data. This means that your data has a certain amount of uncertainty that scales in direct proportion to your aperture. The only way to make things more "certain" is to increase aperture, decrease light pollution, improve seeing, get a faster camera, increase your total exposure length...or...just shoot a wide enough field where your final display of the image will never show the noise that's there in the first place. The latter is what we often do, and it deceives us into thinking our fast f-ratio scopes are indeed "faster."
-------------------- jay
www.allaboutastro.com
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jay52
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Reged: 09/26/04
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Quote:
Take the same imaging train, but, put a 0.5 focal reducer inline, so now the imager results in 2 arcseconds per pixel. That totals 4 square arcseconds of sky per pixel. Each pixel will catch 4 times as many photons, for the same camera noise (assuming no losses introduced by the fr) in the same length of exposure. Net result, lower resolution, but brighter image (higher snr), with wider field of view. Side effect, tracking errors appear to be half the size they would without the reducer for the same error.
Yes, the number of photons per pixel increases. Who cares? You only need enough per pixel to swamp out the read noise. Once you do that, it's all about "shot" noise, and how many photons I can collect PER ARC MEASURE of the sky in order to increase my S/N ratio.
The experiment is a simple one. Take an instrument, any instrument, and shoot one image at full scale. Then, shoot another image with a focal reducer for the same TOTAL duration...you'll have to vary subexposure time to give overcome read noise appropriate for that f-ratio.
Next, reinterpolate the short f/l image to give it the same image scale as the larger image. Process both the same. Then, you tell me the advantage of the focal reducer? I'll answer it for you...it's not to speed up the system, but rather to increase your FOV to capture objects too large for the scope at native focal length.
You really don't have to do the experiment, since Stan Moore did it in the first link I mentioned above...but still, nothing beats personal experience.
Oh, and the image isn't "brighter" just because you have fewer pixels to hold the photons. In a longer f/l system, an object's brightness is just spread out over more pixels. Once processed, you can't tell the difference.
This is not film. CCD images are calibrated, registered, and processed. We are trying to get clean image that yield easy manipulation using curves and levels. The higher the S/N of the object, the easier it is to perform this task.
-------------------- jay
www.allaboutastro.com
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yg1968
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Reged: 01/26/04
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Jay. Interesting stuff. But I often wonder what this means in practice. I like using focal reducers with my C11 and my Starshoot I in order to increase the field of view. This way, the focus looks better, the stars look rounder because they are smaller and it is possible to fit the object in the field of view.
However, I suppose that I could use a larger chip camera such my Canon 350D with a higher focal lenght to get a larger image which would achieve the same results (smaller stars when compared to the overall size of the image).
Reading Wodaski's book, I am guessing that imaging at focal lenghts varying from 500mm to 1500mm is probably the best that I can hope to acheive using an Atlas mount (even if it is auto-guided). For this reason, I have recently purchased a C6 SCT (F10, 1500mm focal lenght and only 10 pounds) which I intend to use with my DSLR. Imaging at focal lenghts higher than 1500mm would probably require a better mount. I decided to get the C6 SCT because it allows me to image at 500mm, 1000mm or 1500mm (and mostly because it was only $400!). Let me know if you disagree with any of what I just said.
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jay52
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No, that's exactly why we normally choose a focal reducer...either for yielding a larger FOV with smaller chips -or- for reducing the image scale such that each pixel covers a larger section of the sky (undersampling). This puts less pressure on the mount to perform. In other words, if your C11 can't achieve optimum resolution with your mount at f/10, then it's silly to try it. You'd be much better off using a reducer to give yourself an image scale that yields a better chance of success...and a larger FOV as well, should you need/want it. Honestly, a large FOV isn't always needed. After a while, you run out of targets with a short apo and a DSLR...which is why I always recommend that smaller astro CCD cameras, like the SXV-9h and SBIG ST-2000, should at least bear a purchase "consideration." It's quite okay to trade FOV if you can get better quality in exchange, particularly if you are interested mostly in imaging galaxies, globulars, planetaries, etc.
I shoot with a Paramount and AP 900/1200 mounts...and before that a TAK NJP. I haven't had an issue shooting with 2857mm RCOS RCs...as I know that my system can deliver to the point where the quality of my images will be limited only by the seeing...which should be the goal of all imagers who have capable equipment.
Wodaski's book charts various focal lengths and their difficulty to shoot with relation to atmospheric seeing...and he's dead on. Anything under 500mm or so just isn't affected much by the seeing, unless you live in a bad seeing location, like the Rocky Mountains. Thus, it's a variable that beginners don't have to concern themselves with when they start. But it also makes things a little easier on the mount...guiding is easier, polar alignment is less important (though it's ALWAYS important), etc.
Therefore, for beginners, the good advice is always to start with shorter focal length instruments. But should somebody already have a Mak they can use, particularly if they have a decent mount already, then it's just not good advice to say that they shouldn't give it a try, especially using the excuse that it's too "slow." Again, I reference Mark Sibole's work (among others) in that ETX gallery link. Even if you could produce an argument that said focal ratio is important, you'd be hard pressed to argue that against the results on that page.
-------------------- jay
www.allaboutastro.com
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yg1968
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Thanks for the info. But I am not sure which statement you are disagreeing with. I am essentially saying that imaging between 500mm and 1500mm is probably OK for an Atlas. So If I were using my C11, I would try using a .5 or .33 focal reducer. If I am using my C6, I would either use a .63 reducer or no reducer.
P.S. I didn't want to get into the details but my C11 is actually a CPC 11 XLT (which I may or may not defork). So I actually don't intend on using it to image DSOs in the short term. That is why I bought a C6. I also have an Orion 80ED but also wanted a larger scope for imaging galaxies.
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