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Owen
sage
Reged: 06/21/07
Posts: 353
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http://www.tinyurl.com/5mhjkj
Hydraulic hose and tube clamps... Made for the job in volumes so only a few pounds each (in the UK - no doubt a few dollars in the US )
Have fun
Owen
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Jeff Morgan
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 09/28/03
Posts: 1512
Loc: Prescott, AZ
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I have been down this road about three times now, thinking I can build a better split block. I say just order the Moonlight ball & socket system and be done with it. A little pricey, but excellent function and a big time saver.
-------------------- Jeff Morgan
Prescott, AZ
Wile E. Coyote School of Telescope Making
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Tom Clark
super member
Reged: 11/14/07
Posts: 141
Loc: Chiefland, Florida
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For you ATM types that has a friend with a milling machine, here is a very simple way to make them from aluminum. I used to sell them to ATMers until selling the machine shop and retiring in '97. To finish the hole, drill 1/8" undersize with a drill bit, then bore the finish size using a 2-flute end mill. Stop 1/16 of an inch from all the way thru.
These clamp blocks were used in Tectrons, and worked so well that the scopes only needed the tiniest collimation tweek at assembly.
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Tom Clark
super member
Reged: 11/14/07
Posts: 141
Loc: Chiefland, Florida
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The small blocks make building the rest of the scope very easy as they mount inside the corners and align themselves up at first assembly.
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Tom Clark
super member
Reged: 11/14/07
Posts: 141
Loc: Chiefland, Florida
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another view of assembled scope
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greenglass
sage
   
Reged: 01/22/06
Posts: 434
Loc: Ontario,Canada
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I tried to fix the maple split blocks and couldn't. I will now try (4th set) plywood like Chriske'. My first ones were pine and were too weak, the maple ones were nice but the wrong size holes (can't find a drill bit around 1.02 inches) and didn't clamp enough, the channel and strap ones worked good but they scratch the poles and didn't look nice.
-------------------- 7x50 Tasco binoculars
4" f/9 reflector
12.75" f/5.4 reflector
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John Carruthers
Skiprat
   
Reged: 02/02/07
Posts: 1681
Loc: Kent, UK
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Couldn't you use an offcut of the poles you're using to make a short tube bit? Plug one end with wood, drill it and fit a bolt to go in the drill chuck and maybe serrate the cutting end, 10 mins, right size bit. A spade bit is even easier if you have a grinder, doesn't have to be magnificent, just enough to ream out 8 (?) holes.
-------------------- Jc
ATM 10" F6.1, 1/25th wave spec (max wavefront error +/- 1/12.6 in zone 4 of 6, sodium light )
6" F7 spec
127mm F9.4 Refractor
10 x 50 bin
ETX80 (finder)
Canon 20D
and a curious mind
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Chriske
Kijkerbouw Urania
   
Reged: 08/15/04
Posts: 1939
Loc: Boechout, Belgium
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Quote:
I tried to fix the maple split blocks and couldn't. I will now try (4th set) plywood like Chriske'. My first ones were pine and were too weak, the maple ones were nice but the wrong size holes (can't find a drill bit around 1.02 inches) and didn't clamp enough, the channel and strap ones worked good but they scratch the poles and didn't look nice.
In case of thin poles you should fill them with wooden rods fitting tightly (only in the ends) to prevent squeezing the trusses together during mounting. Or maybe you will use thick poles...?
-------------------- Chris
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Don H
member
Reged: 12/28/06
Posts: 17
Loc: Midwest US
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Here is a link to my 11" scope page, showing some split blocks like Chriske's, but with the single split kerf extending into the pole insert hole, as mentioned by Ron and Bill. I have made many other types which can be seen on my other scope pages, but I think these are the easiest to build and clamp securely along the entire length of the block. In your case, the carriage bolt head would be inside of the mirror box.
http://www.geocities.com/astro1z/11new.html
Good luck,
Don
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Bill Kocken
super member
Reged: 08/07/04
Posts: 157
Loc: Coon Rapids, MN
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Here's a photo of my split block. It's made of 3 layers of plywood glued together. Drill the hole and cut the slit. It's screwed to the mirror box with the 3 screws on the left side. ( I see I used 3 different screws ). I did have to ream out the hole some, with aggressive sanding. Also not seen is a small plate screwed across the bottom of the hole to ensure that the truss poles always go in to the exact same depth.
Don't give up, These are pretty easy to make.
Bill
-------------------- 16"F4.5 Homebuilt Truss Dob
2 - 8"F6 Homebuilt dobs
Member, Minnesota Astronomical Society
Edited by Bill Kocken (11/09/08 11:17 AM)
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