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webejamn
journeyman
Reged: 09/11/07
Posts: 5
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i am going out tonight to shoot, and was wondering what i should set my camera settings at... i will either be using a 500mm f4 or a 70-200mm f2.8, i can use either my 5d, or a 40d, what will i probably have the best results with.. setting wise
thanks
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WarrenS
sage
Reged: 03/04/08
Posts: 326
Loc: Hudson Valley New York
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What are you mounting your camera/lens combo on and what are your intended targets? Need more info.
-------------------- Warren
Astro-Tech 127EDT
Celestron Onyx 80ED
C8 (circa 1983 Orange Tube)
Atlas EQ-G
Canon 135mm F2.8
Canon 40D, Astronomik CLS clip filter
Leica, Minolta binos
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webejamn
journeyman
Reged: 09/11/07
Posts: 5
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i am mounting it to a custom made mount for my telescope. i have no idea what i want to shoot...
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Jared
Carpal Tunnel
   
Reged: 10/11/05
Posts: 1875
Loc: Piedmont, California, U.S.
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Quote:
i am mounting it to a custom made mount for my telescope. i have no idea what i want to shoot...
The object you wish to image will determine the lens choice. If you don't know what you want to try, I'd pick the 70-200 since it's shorter focal length will be less challenging.
Does the mount track or not? And is it equatorial or not? If it is an equatorial mount, set your lens to f/2.8, use the 5D, set your ISO to 800, and try thirty second exposures. I'd recommend trying out Rho Ophiuchus as a subject if you have a nice view of the Southern horizon--just center the field of view on Antares. It's a neat part of the sky and well suited to the focal lengths you are talking about.
If the 30s exposures give you stars that are nice and round you can try increasing the exposure length. Unless you have a really good quality mount that you have drift aligned, you will probably max out around 1 minute or so before stars start to become football shaped (due to tracking inaccuracies).
If your mount tracks but is "alt-az" in nature rather than equatorial, you can try the same thing but keep the exposures down around 20s or so. When you stack your different exposures, you will need to correct for field rotation with an alt-az mount.
If your mount doesn't track at all on its own, I would recommend you try out some "star trail" astrophotography. Point your mount somewhere near the north celestial pole and try a ten minute exposure. Generally, it works best if you include a little terrestrial scenery in your exposure for a frame of reference. This is a way to create some really nifty celestial images without the hassles of an equatorial mount and without having to stack separate subexposures. It's a great way to get started.
Best of luck!
-------------------- - Jared Willson
- Fluorostar FLT-110 w/ TEC optics
- Vixen VC200L
- Astro-Physics Mach1 GTO
- Stellarvue SV80S
- Takahashi Teegul SP Mount
- STL-11000
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jay52
Carpal Tunnel
   
Reged: 09/26/04
Posts: 2280
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I'd shoot 70mm at f/4.
Once you've succeeded with that, you can work your way up.
-------------------- jay
www.allaboutastro.com
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webejamn
journeyman
Reged: 09/11/07
Posts: 5
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it does track, it does not have goto, its equatorial mount,
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tommyhawk13
sage
   
Reged: 09/28/07
Posts: 497
Loc: Jacksonville, Fl
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If you have a wide angle lens, that would be the best to start with, just aim east of Deneb, the tail in Cygnus, at f/4. Wide angle lenses are much more forgiving of tracking and alignment errors, and the area I suggested is packed full of Milky Way goodness, and the huge red North America nebula.
--------------------
Meade Starfinder 8,Meade SN-8 OTA, Orion Atlas, and a handfull of film cameras
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